gtoal

I posted a design for a laser-cut version at:

by any chance have you replaced either the VIA or the CPU from the factory-installed ones?

you might look for Malbans "weird vectrex" test rom. (http://vide.malban.de/forums/topic/peer-testing-notes-findings-suggestion-etc) probably the cause is that those are cartridges which implement bank switching, and your Via is non standard. G

https://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/1811/1811.02035.pdf also a rewrite in C is linked to at

Pretty sure one of the schoolkids on Scratch has posted an algorithm like that. It'll be in this collection of maze generators: https://scratch.mit.edu/studios/403013/ Look for "Ellers algorithm" http://weblog.jamisbuck.org/2010/12/29/maze-generation-eller-s-algorithm Here's another one... http://people.cs.ksu.edu/~ashley78/wiki.ashleycoleman.me/index.php/Sidewinder_Maze.html (there are others that work similarly, can't remember the names right now. You can read about maze algorithms in general at https://www.astrolog.org/labyrnth/algrithm.htm ) Just keep scrolling down, the page refreshes with more when you hit the bottom. (All those Scratch programs have source available, just select it and click "See inside")

It's no great secret - was written about here some time ago: http://www.digitpress.com/library/interviews/interview_paul_allen_newell.html G

Yes indeed ? ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/40pin-Male-to-Female-Ribbon-GPIO-Cable-for-Connection-Raspberry-Pi-3-2-Model-B/303202023930 although a little pricey. I have some parts on order to make my own. Beware IDE cables have one connector on the wrong side.)

Because of the hassles of porting complex programs to a bare metal environment, my current PiTrex development environment is actually a Pi 3 connected by a ribbon cable, rather than an embedded Pi Zero. This is fine, but it introduces a caveat when I say that it appears that Mame (advancemame to be precise) is fast enough on its own and that we won't require multiple individual heavily customised static binary translations to make arcade games work. (The caveat being that Pi 3 cores are a bit faster than a Pi Zero core). On the Pi 3 I can dedicate one of the four cores to the PiTrex and run it with most of the OS overhead turned off. However we haven't turned off *all* OS overhead, so this environment can still produce the occasional screen glitch, and isn't as completely rock-solid as when we run just the application alone on a Pi Zero in 'bare metal' mode. Anyway what I'm getting round to saying is that I expect most of the vector games that AdvanceMame can emulate will run on the PiTrex. I.e. for now we don't think we require the more difficult step of producing individual binaries through static binary translation. On the other hand some of those games do put a *lot* of vectors on the screen at once, so it's quite possible that the emulation could be fast enough but the display hardware incapable of keeping up. One last point to set appropriate expectations: the PiTrex seems to bring out the worst in the Vectrex regarding the infamous buzz... It's not continuous any more, but it's loud and in direct proportion to what is being drawn. (If the screen is blank, the Vectrex is silent). Haven't tested with a no-buzz kit yet but I'm assuming it will work the same here too. Graham

I've set it to record at 9pm on Aug 25th...

I would expect so. Wasn't aware of Star Wars on the VecFever unless you mean in terminal mode and hosted on another computer with MAME?

Well if you want to help, go fetch http://www.brouhaha.com/~eric/software/vecsim/ and see if you can add Star Wars to it - it's partly in there but looks like it was never finished. G

To bring folks up to date on this... I didn't get the native 6809 code version of Tailgunner working, although it is still on the cards and a little work has been done on it by Alexander von Knorring which I might pick up on some day, but I did manage to get a very good version of the original arcade code running on a cartridge with the help of Thomas Sontowski and the Vecfever. Thomas also made a few stand-alone cartridges for me, which I've given away as presents to "friends and family" (well, actually just friends, none of my family has a Vectrex ? ) but that doesn't help the vectrex world at large get a copy, so I spun off yet another project to build new cartridges that could run arcade vector games in emulation. It's called the "PiTrex" because it mounts a Raspberry Pi Zero on a Vectrex cartridge, and drives the Vectrex from the Pi. That project isn't quite ready but it's nearing fruition and we do have Tailgunner sort of running on the cartridge, though there are a few small timing issues to be sorted out before we can release it.

I know this is an old thread but it's where people end up when looking for that info. An alternative to the above, with a flat head, is https://www.amazon.com/Finish-degrees-Phillips-Thread-Length/dp/B00GI6MUJO/

If your hardware just doesn't have the galvo speed to keep up with a vectrex game, I think you need a different approach than just drawing a subset of the display. Perhaps you could use more than one unit and schedule the vectors across multiple units in a way that allows all the vectors to be drawn within the appropriate frame period? Also the phosphor persistence effect will be missing - you get around that in regular emulators for raster displays by keeping the drawn vectors on the screen a bit longer before removing them, but you don't have that luxury with a laser display. Though you could paint your screen/wall with a weak glow-in-the-dark paint to get a similar effect (you wouldn't want the really good stuff that glows for a long time though!) Good luck with the project!

(Just FYI I had some problems at first with soft reboots not initialising properly, but since I have my vectrex on a voice-activated power switch anyway and it's just as easy to power off and on again, I haven't had any more problems) As much as Richard's 3D printed enclosure is a nice design, I wanted mine in a proper cart ?:

Haven't heard from you - just a reminder this was a firm commitment. contact gtoal@gtoal.com to tell me how to pay... Graham

Thought about this hard for a few days since I already have a working solution, but decided in the end to chip in and get one for my backup Vectrex too :-) Put me down for one. You know my email. Graham

I'll post this info eventually as a web page with photos. Please comment if you see any mistakes or parts that could be improved. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I started this with the info from Chris 'Binarystar' Malcolm's project from 2016. He posted: SMS Pin 5 (VCC) to Vectrex Pin 7 (VCC) SMS Pin 6 (Trigger) to Vectrex Pin 3 (Button 3) SMS Pin 7 (Light sensor) to Vectrex Pin 4 (Button 4) SMS Pin 8 (GND) to Vectrex Pin 8 (GND) That's all the info we need to work out how to rewire the Light Phaser with a new cable taken from a Sega extension cable. Take the Lightgun and carefully split apart the two halves of the rubber shield around the Sega plug. You'll find the inner part of the plug encased in a translucent white plastic. However if you look at it carefully you will be able to see the wires inside... Examine the cable and correlate the wiring colours to the pins in this diagram: Light Phaser plug: 5 4 3 2 1 _____________________ \ * o o o o / \ / (looking from the mating side into the holes.) \ o * * * / \_____________/ 9 8 7 6 SMS Pin 5 (VCC/+5V) SMS Pin 6 (Trigger) SMS Pin 7 (Light sensor) SMS Pin 8 (GND/0V) In my Light Phaser they were: SMS 5: green (VCC/+5V) ....................... SMS 6: blue (trigger) ....................... SMS 7: grey (light sensor) ....................... SMS 8: black (GND/0V) ....................... (If your wires are different colours, write them in here and in the diagrams below where there are "......"s.) Now it's time to open up the Light Phaser - there are obvious screws all on one side, plus one hidden screw under the logo. Ten seconds under a hairdryer will loosen the logo decal enough to slide a fingernail under one end and partially bend it back enough to undo the screw below it. There's a lens that may fall out at the front - this is a good time to give it a clean (and the rest of the unit if it needs it). Looking inside the Light Phaser we see the logic PCB with wires coming out one end: ------------------+ ............. o | black (GND) ............. o | blue (trigger) ............. o | green (VCC/+5v) ............. o | grey (light sensor) ------------------+ (Ignore the two red wires running to the micro switch. Leave them attached.) Now take a SEGA extension cable. You might want to file down the corners of the plug at this point and confirm it can plug in to your Vectrex. Put your joystick/control panel on the other end and test that it still works, to confirm that you can insert the new plug far enough to make contact. Cut the extension cable about a foot from the socket end (male pins - the end where you attached your joystick to test). Strip off about an inch of covering and expose the 9 wires. Use your continuity tester to correlate the wire colours at the cut end to the pins in the plug end (female) (You'll probably have to push some narrower pins or solid wires into the plug holes to make contact as your voltmeter probes will likely be too thick) We are only interested in 4 wires but you may have to test all 9 to work out the colour mapping, unless it happens to be the same as my cable: Vectrex Pin 3 (Button 3 for trigger) Vectrex Pin 4 (Button 4 for light sensor) Vectrex Pin 7 (VCC/+5V) Vectrex Pin 8 (GND/0V) Vectrex plug: 5 4 3 2 1 _____________________ \ o * * o o / \ / (looking from the mating side into the holes.) \ o * * o / \_____________/ 9 8 7 6 In my case they were as below. Write in your colour mapping if different... V1: red V2: black V3: grey (trigger) _________________________ (write in your colours where there are '______'s below) V4: orange (light sensor) _________________________ V5: brown V6: green V7: white (+5v) __________________________ V8: blue (gnd) __________________________ V9: yellow Taking these colours to the corresponding pins on the PCB: PCB Original cable New Cable to Vectrex ------------------+ +--- ........... o | -- blue (gnd) ------------- X ---------------| black ___________________________________ (write in your colours) ........... o | -- grey (trigger) --------- X ---------------| blue ___________________________________ ........... o | -- white (+5v) ------------ X ---------------| green ___________________________________ ........... o | -- orange (light sensor) -- X ---------------| grey ___________________________________ ------------------+ +--- You might as well cut off the 5 unused wires from the new cable. (Take care that the cut ends can't short to each other - I staggered my cuts by a millimeter so they're not adjacent) Now connect the two sets of wires at the X using the press-fit connectors. Test the light gun innards with your vectrex before reassembly. (OR desolder the 4 wires from the PCB and solder the 4 wires from the vectrex in the holes, then test again.) Fit the micro switch back on its columns. Run the new wire round the screw posts which will give it a bit of resistance against being pulled out. Put the lens and the end cap back in place and join the two halves of the gun back together, and screw together. Use!

I saw a new format today from a post on Facebook: "The model is 3000-A1 Australia, serial number is 013518A and made in Taiwan." so that would be 0 xxx xxA Made in Taiwan Can anyone confirm?

PS see https://web.archive.org/web/20160306232450/http://www.pagetable.com/?p=547for a similar example of this method in action...

I noted below the highest numbers from the old serial number list. Substitute any higher ones you know of then do the math from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_tank_problem Ser. No.: 1 xxx xxA - GCE model (fist series before MB takeover) 147016A Ser. No.: 0 xxx xxx - MB USA model 0147543 Ser. No.: xxx xxx - Bandai 027614 Ser. No.: 1 xxx xxx - MB Canada model 1024135 Ser. No.: U xxx xxA - MB UK model (built in Taiwan) U011012A Ser. No.: 2 xxx xxx - MB UK model (build in Hong Kong) 2029821 Ser. No.: 3 xxx xxx - MB Euro model 3116019 Ser. No.: 4 xxx xxx - MB Vectrex series 2 (no buzz issue) model 4017822 Ser. No.: 1 xxx xxA - GCE model (fist series before MB takeover)

Yes, this will require proper debugging. Most likely capacitors to be replaced. There is a brightness control on the back. Reduce the brightness until the rays disappear. If that doesn't help it is another hardware problem that will require debugging. You'll find a lot of hardware description online for the voltages for the joystick and buttons Yes, that's normal.

It's not the cartridges, it's the Vectrex itself which needs adjustment.

Scottish and Irish Gaelic I think. I've heard some awful pronunciations from Americans so far. It's stra as in "strapping" plus "mash" with the emphasis on the second syllable. Last Youtube review I watched sounded more like "Strammish" with the person emphasising the first syllable. The connotations to a Scotsman are not so much a pitched battle as a brawl - a fight in a Glasgow bar at night might be described as a stramash :-) If it was only a couple of guys rather than the whole pub, though, it might just be a wee rammy! G

I don't see how you can use it with the Vectrex switched off - the cartridge gets its power from the Vectrex. It can't be powered by the serial cable. It has a 62256 static ram inside so should take a single image up to 32K Oh wait - I'm describing the Vecram with serial connection. Yours is a vecflash? Never mind... G