Amerika
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Posts posted by Amerika
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My issue was resolved. My controller was giving me a double input when I pressed Option and it skipped past the screen with the URL. The QR for the screen did not work, but I was able to download my firmware. Thanks to Saint on the assist with that. I had no clue there were multiple screens to cycle through and I never pressed Option button again.
Also, I have dual output going to my LCD as well and the QR does not work from it either. Not a big deal, I can type in an URL.
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Is anybody else having issues with their QR? My phone does not give me an URL with the default camera app that I normally use for QR codes nor does any 3rd party app. I also tried my girlfriends phone and it also does not work and she also uses it for QR stuff pretty frequently. I already pinged Saint about it but then I realized I should check these forums and report in case others are seeing the same issue.
Thanks!
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Quite a few Samsung cards and also Lexar have issues with other ODE's where audio can stretch or data reads can fail due to something those cards do while they are being accessed. One card series that seems to always work on any ODE is the cheaper Sandisk cards. The Samsung and Lexar might be doing some sort of health check or garbage collection at some point which can cause a continuous read to go on too long (which can also cause stretched audio).
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That's awesome as I bought the sega genesis with CD support version a while back and really enjoyed it. I'll have to grab the Jag version too!
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24 minutes ago, cn817166 said:
Pretty much getting this same issue, have you ever solved it ? No clue what it is lol.
I have not. I have never went back to look at it since I own a few other sega cd's that I've repaired that work perfectly. I'll track it down one day.
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Are payments via Paypal supposed to show as "Pending" (I ordered on the first day you could) still until the cartridge ships? I'm in no huge rush...I just want to make sure my order doesn't accidentally sit there!!
Thanks Saint, you're amazing. And a lot of people around here are pretty swell too
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Haha, I came here to comment on that jerk's post. But it would appear my comment is necessary so bravo to you community and extra kudos to Saint for rolling with it.
I do actually agree somewhat with some of what the guy is saying. Left/right paging is pretty common in most menus of these types (not just flash carts but in general) but it's definitely not even close to a RED FLAG at all. Separate menus for cart/CD is actually kind of confusing as well for anybody who has used the SSDS3 rather than just using a folder.
So despite how his message was conveyed, there is a bit of merit to some of it. However, that guy can go to hell though.
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I captured some footage of the issue so please give it a listen. It's bizarre.
I'll copy/paste what I put into the videos description to give you guys an idea of what this thing is and what has been done.
This is a model 2 Sega CD that I picked up which was sold for parts/broken. Somebody had done a really bad repair job on it and the Q301 transistor and the fuse was blown out. I also removed the new caps they put in and replaced all caps with my own. That fixed the unit and CD's read just fine (even Sylpheed) but I get the sound issue you hear in the video. This is a Funai motherboard (the version with the out of place daughterboard) and it also has the SOHOT4 Samsung laser in it rather than the Sony KSS-210A. And I did replace c412 with an 47uF 6.3v capacitor. Maybe that capacitor isn't doing what it should be? I've also cleaned up and re-greased everything that could use it and I also adjusted the pots (had to do it blind since I don't own a scope..but I took photos of stock positions) and no change. I guess one of the new caps I used could be bad. I did reflow all of them just to be sure.Any other ideas? -
As far as making an 7800 flash cart goes, count me all in. I just got done with my audio/svideo mod a few months ago and I recently even made a remote for my 7800 to press all of the buttons on the console from my couch.
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Hey Saint, I would like to be added to the list for a Lynx 2 cased cart!
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Yeah, that is definitely an option worth exploring. Somebody else told me to go to an automotive store and see if they had something that was common that could be used (like a trailer light kit).
I might actually end up using RJ45 if I can get a jack that is deep enough so it doesn't require the lock to get a reliable connection. I'm going to go out to an automotive store today and if that doesn't work I can get some RJ45 jacks locally and see how well they would work. If all else fails I'll probably just got minidin8 and paint the beige cord.
Thanks for the assist!
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Super basic version: I need a long black cable with a small but non-unique or hard to get connection type that has at least 5 wires that can be easily found pre-made and will breakaway.
RJ45 - Won't work because of the locking mechanism preventing the cord from breaking away is required to keep a good/consistent connection.
Min-Din6 or 8 - So far I can't find anything that works due to the off the shelf cable colors being beige only that I have found online. If I can find black at 10' or longer, then I'm set.
USB - In a perfect world I'd use USB-A connectors but USB only has 4 wires total.
I hope that clears things up.
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My apologies. I guess I should have also mentioned that I am attempting to avoid making a custom solution in case I want to easily swap in a longer cable or if I happen to lose it etc. it won't be a pain to get another one. I know I can do that, I just don't want to reinvent the wheel if there is a solid pre-made alternative I have not found yet.
If I need to go that route, I can and will. I would just like to save it as the last option is all.
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In that case I think the use of a mini-din is the most logical way to go.
I agree, it's one logical way to go which is why I listed it. However, I am not finding anything that meets my needs in regards to aesthetics and size. Which is why I am asking for suggestions on where I could maybe find what I want with a 10' black mini-din cable and jacks, or some other alternative, that would do the job.
I am not extraordinarily well versed in this area so I am asking for suggestions here. My google-fu has yet to find anything that would work. I believe solutions exist, I just am ignorant of the proper terminology to find what I want.
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If you use the Ardino / BT type setup, then you won't need to worry about tripped wires because you put the transmitter either inside the 7800 somewhere if there is room for it, or attach it via whatever you want off the side of it. Your actual controller is wirelessly attached that way so...no wires in the way really.
I am aware of this. But as I mentioned in my original post, it's not the route I want to take.
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Hello!
When the 2600 was first created, it was assumed by the designers that the console would be very near the person playing on it. So a lot of games rely on pressing a button on the console to either start the game, to reset a game after failing, to pause a game etc. (you all know this...but I am just framing here). Well, I have an 7800 and it does not sit anywhere close to me and trying to move it closer to where I normally sit (love seat) would make my setup messy and it would be hassle. Due to the nature of this design, I find myself not playing on it as much as I would normally do simply because it's annoying. It's one thing to get up and change a cart, it's another to have to constantly get up to do something with each game!
Since the 7800 has 4 push buttons that are software controlled (4 posts but the posts are mirrored) and are not physical switches, I decided that I could wire up an 7800 remote control. I did a quick proof of concept by attaching a push button to a couple of the buttons to make sure everything worked fine and it does. Now all I need to do is figure out what kind of connection/wire I want to use to connect the 7800 to a remote control box. I know I could use an arduino and BT and remote control it that way easy enough, but I feel like this project needs a physical connection. My question to you guys is what do you think would be an aesthetically in-line connection type that I could fairly easily get my hands on and use? My only qualifications are that I need it to have at least 5 wires (4 active wires and a common ground) and I'd like it to be small so I could easily hide it on the side of the console.
My first thought was to use RJ45 as it is easy to come by, it has enough wires, and I could get a thin braided cable that is pretty flexible. However, the downside to using RJ45 is they snap into place. That could mean if somebody ran into/tripped on the wire, it could not only yank my 7800 hard and damage it but also more likely to trip the person. I could clip that off but as anybody knows RJ45's don't like to stay connected without it. What would be a good alternative to this? I was thinking maybe a mini-din8. But i can only seem to find beige cabling and I'd like to keep everything black. I also want something that is around 10 feet. I've looked at a few other things as well but nothing quite fits my criteria so I figured I'd ask here.
Any suggestions are welcome!
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So, a quick update to this. I figured out why my video capture didn't look right compared to what I was seeing on my TV's when hooked directly to them. If you have the micomsoft sc-512n1-l/dvi capture card, you might need to configure your settings similar to mine to get proper capture.
I changed my YUV Color Space to 709 (it was on Default which is 601), I changed the YUV Color Range to Full (it was on Partial by default) and the real kicker was going into Configure Video/Video Encoder and changing that to NTSC_M_J rather than the default NTSC_M. I still need to adjust the brightness up to between 10 and 15 (it's on 15 in this video) or it is just too dark.
I've never had to make any of these changes with any other console so this was quite a learning experience. The quality seems about as good as s-video on this old hardware will allow. It's definitely not clean, but it's definitely better than the options I had before by a good margin!
And here is what Xenophobe looks like. This game definitely lets you see any jailbars or ghosting.
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So it's definitely my capture card. This is a picture of the 7800 hooked directly up to an LCD via composite.
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What flashcart did you use on the 7800? I wasn't aware that one existed that worked on the 7800. Or is this a program that works via the Harmony?
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BTW, here is a side by side of the CRT vs. the capture. Is there a way to adjust the colors n the UAV? I saw what looked like a potentiometer on the board but I wasn't sure if it was that and I didn't want to touch it.
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Most issue I see with captures from these old modded consoles is just the odd lines that show up from the lack of proper de-interlacing. So you usually just see thin lines etc from where the flicker would be going into the effect on a CRT to cover those regions normally. But again, i don't capture my video with any sort of device so I just adjust the lighting as best I can and shoot video straight off my LCD with my camcorder on a tripod. I know that isn't he best way, but it seems to get the job done and it does reflect what I actually see on the LCD that way since as you noted your capture card appears to be blurring the foliage effects in commando. Out of curiosity, have you tired your modded console on a LCD? Does it do the same there as well or look essentially normal minus the colors being off that LCD always do?
I do have an LCD in that room I could run a composite line to and see if it generates the same issue. I do know that it is not an interlacing issue as that mostly affects a game when it is in motion and not static images outside of the "bounce" commonly associated with interlacing. And I originally noticed the problem when deinterlacing was turned off. I can mess with some contrast values later tonight as well and see if it fixes the issue. It's just odd that default capture, without any screen manipulation, has the best capture quality for all of my consoles (I have 18 hooked up for capture...thank the heavens for Extron Crosspoints). But with this mod I have to turn up the brightness/gamma in OBS and it sounds like I might need to mess with contrast to get back missing details during capture...which will throw off the look.
I'll hook it up to an LCD tonight and see if the issue goes away. I'd wager the LCD will look fine (as fine as composite on LCD can look) and it's going to be something odd with my capture card and this specific mod. I guess I could also shoot Bryan a PM and see what he thinks too. In the end, it's not a huge issue as the games look great locally and I am not super worried about capture quality. This is now more of a technical curiosity that has my interest...but it's not going to ruin my day if I can't.
Oh, and to make sure it's on record, I have tried different cables and I also directly hooked the console up to my capture card (both s-video and composite) and bypassed my Crosspoint to ensure it wasn't some oddity with hardware or the switch.
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I might make a new thread on the topic to see how others capture footage of their 7800 at some point. I just looked at my older video where I was messing with the pot to adjust colors and despite the video being way too dark I noticed that the other composite mod has the same issue with the foliage lines missing. So it's definitely not an issue unique to Bryan's UAV and it is looking more and more like an oddity with my capture card and the 7800.
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Could ask OldAtari to see if he has Commando. He just posted a video of PP2 from his s-video through his capture just yesterday or earlier today. He has a UAV modded console as well. Again, I don't own any video capture stuff and even if I did my game room and PC are not in the same part of the house, so it wouldn't be that easy for me to capture video in my case. I guess I'm different in that I have a separate Game room and separate PC room in our home.
And yes, the removal of R5 is common in many other composite mods but I've never been a big fan of it. Again you never know when something better with come along, so if a mod process says to remove a component, I look to see where it is getting its signal from and clip it on that side to remove it from circuit without removing the component itself. This way it is just a simple matter of dabbing a little solder onto where you cut to put it back in circuit when needed. R5 is a 6.8k value btw.
I've got the process I use for the audio documented in the install procedures, but again just clip the north legs of R5 and R6. Attach them together. Solder the positive lead from a 10uf 16v cap off the two attached resistors and then run the negative lead off the cap to your audio center RCA jacks. Really easy and also easy to remove if needed.
I actually went back and checked my audio with and without the 6.8k resistor that came with my composite mod and there was zero difference when comparing the recordings. So I checked the instructions and they looked like the resistor was supposed to go one line and apparently it was not supposed to go there. It was actually supposed to go on the audio out line coming out of the composite mod. I moved the resistor over to the audio out line and now I have balanced audio.
I'll send OldAtari a message and see if he can post a video if he happens to have Commando. I am curious if it's the mod itself or if it's some kind of oddity with my capture card. Considering it looks perfect on my CRT I'm thinking there is some oddity with the capture card.
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Well mine isn't using any capture. That is just the cam corder aimed at my LCD. I also noticed in your video that your TIA and Pokey are not mixed properly. The POKEY music in commando should not be that subdued at all and so the TIA is really overpowering. Easiest fix for that is to take the audio off of where you have it currently and just add a 10uf cap off the north legs of R5 and R6. You have to clip them at those north legs to remove them from circuit, but their values and taking audio straight from that is correct for proper volume balance.
So..you see the foliage details etc on your TV but the capture device doesn't see them correct? Only the Capture device has the issue? Be curious if you own Ikari Warriors or have Double Dragon and can see the what the forest section of that game looks like through your capture card.
I tend to use Commando as it really shows the difference in detail between RF - Composite - S-video the most. Dark Chambers title screen is another good one to use for testing.
Now the ghosting you mention is I'm afraid normal. I see it on all the systems I've modded and it is much worse in composite vs s-video. I think it just how the signal is being handled by the TV. It is mostly evident in the sides of the game screen where it has that green/brown ghost line on the left and the blue/purple on the right. I have found that putting the RF shield back on does help so I always make sure to reinstall the RF shield on all the consoles.
My previous composite mod had me remove R5 or R6 (I think R5). So I guess I need a new one of those along with the 10uF cap if I want correct audio. I have a resistor on the line coming from the Pokey audio chip which was meant to quiet down the music in conjunction with my composite mod. I guess I can remove that and see what happens.
And yeah, the capture thing is extremely odd. Most of my consoles were on s-video last year and I've moved all of them over to component or RGB and all of them captured just fine without any issue like this. And I re-checked the 2 consoles left on s-video and they are fine so it's not a new issue. And as you can see from the album I linked it looks great on my CRT. Does anybody else have the ability to capture their 7800 with this mod and also has Commando? Sadly I don't have Ikari Warriors yet and I don't have Double Dragon. I do have Dark Chamber.
That's too bad about the ghosting but it's not a big deal. It's barely noticeable on capture in most games and you can't see it at all in actual play.
Overall I am super happy though. The quality jump from my composite mod to this is pretty large so it was definitely worth the $25 and time. I'll mess around with the audio and see what I can come up with!
Thanks again guys, very much appreciated.
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I also just did a capture using composite and it looks identical to s-video outside of the lack of clarity that comes with using composite. And, again, it looks just fine with all the normal detail on my CRT.
I also went and compared to Crossbow's video and screenshots and he is not missing the foliage detail like I am. https://youtu.be/0Y40RBKBuog?t=15m34s
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CD Game Support
in Jaguar GameDrive Support
Posted · Edited by Amerika
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QGSVzNQsEtCzW8nx9
That is an album of my Jag's hardware when I did a recap. It shows the serial and the internals nicely. It looks like I have an K serial number and v1.0 is listed on Tom and Jerry (I think that's the IC's names).
I've only gotten to use the new firmware for 30 minutes and tested only Space Ace, Primal Rage and Highlander, and besides the Memory Track missing message you get during Highlander, I've had no issues thus far.