JR>
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Posts posted by JR>
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18 minutes ago, Agent570 said:
I can't help but notice that I seem to be the only person in this thread so far who was stuck using a membrane keyboard on a 400 back then, I still can't believe I put up with that for a few years like I did. ("And we were damn glad to have it, too...")
And you people who actually had 800s when you were that young...you're killing me here!
LOL, we didn't even have calculators when I was that young!
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You can mount .arc files as drives in altirra. From there you have many ways to get the files in a format you prefer.
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Every 600xl I have seen is fully socketed. Replacing the Basic ROM with an EPROM however is not that common, and that is probably where you problem lies. This required modification to the motherboard, so there could be some bad connections/shorts there. I would start by carefully examining the added piece of socket and maybe reflow the solder on it. Also EPROMS do suffer from bit rot over time, so it could be bad too.
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Not some kind of hard reset mod then......thanks!
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1 hour ago, netbeui said:
I tried that but it doesn’t seem to make any difference. I flipped the switch and booted to nothing. Then flipped it back and still nothing. Then pressed reset and got the pause before ready prompt. And now when I press reset it just resets back to the ready prompt.
Switch to the working position and boot to basic. At this point pressing reset should just immediately returns to ready(warmstart). At this point flip the switch, then flip it back. What happens when you press reset now? Immediate jump to ready(warmstart)....pause before ready (coldstart), or something else?
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Hard reset maybe. Try flipping it, then flipping it back after booting. Then press the reset key.
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Just checking....you did have the multimeter set to measure AC voltage, not DC?
Those are serviceable, probably just a blow fuse.
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Buy a bigger house.
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11 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:
There's no way to set the POKEY divisor from the configuration menu of the SDrive-MAX touch screen.
Yeah, I really wish there was. You have to use the SDRIVEN.COM menu to set and save the pokey divisor.
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What POKEY divisor is your Sdrive-MAX set to? Without optimizing that to your setup, you won't see an improvement. The routines need to negotiate for speed. That happens at boot time, but I seem to recall that you can force it to re-negotiate.
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2 hours ago, Mr Robot said:
Hmm! I will have to try again, thanks!
Actually just enabling the PBI BIOS will do it if you have a U1MB. Hias's routines are built in to it. Antonia is the upgrade I had to use a Hias modified OS ROM with.
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4 hours ago, Mr Robot said:
I've added Ctrl+R/W
Has anyone tested the FastSIO controls? I had a play with it but it didn't appear to make any difference to load times, I wonder if it's been disabled in favor of the drive timings for ATX
FastSIO works great with Hias's routines. Runs great at zero on my U1MB 600xl with Hias OS selected. You can definitely hear the difference.
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22 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:
Yeah, not too bad. Good to see my high school debate skills aren't too rusty yet.
If only the news media could say the same!
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You should be able to plug the 4464's into the motherboard with none of the other parts of the mod, and still have a working 16k machine. If not, the chips are probably bad.
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31 minutes ago, Mr Robot said:
I didn't post that picture BigBen did. It's also wrong, he has since posted a correct picture, it's pin 3 not pin 2.
I need to knock up some instructions for all this, don't I?
EDIT: Where did my post go!?
LOL, I had seen the fixed post before and though that was the one I grabbed the pic from.
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16 minutes ago, NISMOPC said:
So wait, I am confused or did not read the details or pay enough attention...
My original UNO R3 (I built some time last year) was the chip on board with micro-USB and I initially used a 1n4148 on TX line which seemed to work OK. Recently tried to power with 12V AC/DC and fried the unit. So I rebuilt using a Inland socketed UNO R3 and still used a 1n4148 on the TX line.
While doing all of this I purchased one of the sub-boards (delivered today) to install. Is it NOT required on the socketed UNO R3 boards. It's just required for the chip on board version?Yes, you can just leave pin 2 out of the socket, or install a switch to re-connect it when re-programming.
See here (picture from Mr. Robot post earlier in thread) :
https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2019/post-62759-0-20415900-1558043974.jpg
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FWIW - 9 VAC is an RMS value. Peak voltage would be about 12.7 v and Peak to Peak 25.4 v
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Nice find! OSN was optional. In this case it looks like they were just using it to add OMNIMON.
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It makes no difference which was positive. It feeds directly into a full wave rectifier.
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Welcome back. If getting an U1MB you should definitely get a SIDE2 to go with it. Together they are much better than either alone. I've never had an interest in VBXL. The UAV is a good enhancement to stock video.
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Could be anything. Pop that top cover off an see what's in there!
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I don't know, The holes being so consistently off center doesn't seem homemade. Materials and construction, including the sanding of the chips, are very similar to the original Omnimon boards for the 400/800. Almost seems like a memory expansion that never got completely installed.
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Composite or S-Video?
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
That works fine. All of the available signals are available all the time.