The_Son_of_Farore

Sorry to bring it up a year later but any of you guys know where to get the photo transistors for a reasonable price?

Quite sure it's set to rgb, that was the first thing I checked. Been fidgeting with the cable all the while over here. It's the same issue, completely unchanged. Turning off ext sync seems to make the pvm reconstruct a sync from just the green signal, but it's a very broken sync.

Managed to fix whatever it was I broke. Doesn't seem like replacing those components had any effect to the original problem though. I'm at a loss here. What else could it possibly be? There is a resistor before the transistor that I intended to replace but somehow I didn't get the resistors in my order. Could those be the culprets? (R30, R37, and R46)

Hey thanks man, this helps out a lot. Hopefully just replacing all the suspected parts will fix it. I'm not so good with the specifics of ordering replacement parts. Please let me know if anything on this cart seems amiss.

Can anybody give me the part information on R29, R43, R48, R38, Q2, Q3, Q4, L15, honestly just the whole color circuit in terms of resistors and ferrites? I accidentally fried something small trying to get this to work and now rf starts normal then white turns to yellow.

I checked continuity from u7 to the end of the red line and it seemed to check out, would continuity not help in this situation? I know for a fact the monitor work because I use it for all rgb consoles I have. It's a direct connection. I'm quite certain the issue is internal.

Retro access RGBs cable. I checked continuity and it seemed right (at least for the red line). I'm assuming the issue is the same for all the lines (RBs) if they all suffer the same thing.

I have a similar problem where I'm getting only the green signal from the av port but everything works perfectly fine with RF, would these parts be the likely culprits for me too?

I have a mickey that I suspect might be bad, but I wanted to be sure of it first before I tried to replace it. How would I go about testing that? My Lynx II boots up to nothing (actually it doesn't boot up at all without manually booting it, but I'm not sure that's related. ) Touching the recently replaced ram and suzy, they are no longer hot to the touch, but if I leave them running for half an hour they will be warm. Mickey on the other hand is warm from the get go, but never gets significantly hotter than the other chips do. That all being said it heats up to it's peak in only a few minutes. It's not as though it's significantly hot, just a bit warm. My question is, how would I be sure it needs replacing? Would it even be responsible for a failure to boot? Also I'm looking for a pinnout of the suzy and mickey chips so I can be sure I haven't shorted the legs or anything. If anybody has those I'd appreciate it a lot. Wasn't sure if the question warranted a new topic.