Nolium

Looks like I have a bricked SIDE3 on my hands. SIDE3 firmware 0.69 U1MB firmware 4.2, plugins VXS3STCO.ROM On Atari without U1MB Spartados is working, but loader boots straight into Atari's Self Test. Is there a way to re-flash (older?) firmware from Spartados?

This really do looks great, just awesome.

What about a dark grey, one that matches dark grey (Atari Falcon) modern keycaps? I really don't mind if the color of function keys doesn't match case color. Cases are of different shade of gray or worse because of ageing anyway, even when you retro-brighten them. I don't mind white function keys, but would prefer the dark grey. I think it would look great.

The keyboard really sounds very nice. Awesome!

What about this: https://github.com/LessNick/Astarta-ESP32 What about RPi? Like this mod on C64: https://github.com/frntc/Sidekick64 Availability of Pi3A+ is getting better, for about 30ish EUR. Neat RPi stock locator with RSS feed: https://rpilocator.com/

I like it, even if it is not official Atari logo. A modern touch on a modern hardware mod. Besides, this keycaps are not an official Atari product therefore I don't mind personal touches of the people involved.

I really like this one. Smaller one is also great, still undecided between the two.

489720

No totalitarian regime can't function without black market, it's a very important part of the system. Without one, ruling elite wouldn't be able to enjoy their wealth, common people would rebel if only they would have access to western stuff. Only companies that exported were able to import stuff from the west, but with a closed market, state was limiting what and how much they were able to import. Convertible currency was hard to get by, Yugoslavian currency was worthless outside it's borders and state needed convertible currency for importing of important stuff. That's why every imported thing cost a fortune, greasing officials was not cheap and the only other way was smuggling. If caught while smuggling, stuff was confiscated usually without charges, mostly because policeman would keep the stuff. Corruption. So yeah, it wasn't legal, but everybody was doing it it.

I've bought my Atari 800XL with 1010 tape recorder and two Atari joysticks in 1985 at the start of the 8th grade of elementary school. I got half the money from my godfather uncle as a gift for confirmation (catholic thing) and worked for a month during summer vacation. For 400 DEM (German marks) a smuggler smuggled the computer from Germany to Yugoslavia, since there were no computer shops allowed in socialism at that time, and importing was very, very expensive.

If you attach a cheap VGA-HDMI converter to GBS-C VGA output, image on HDMI TV is crazy sharp. Almost as sharp as with Sophia2. No extra lag, since a simple analog-digital converter doesn't add any.

Dang, and I though I came up with a fresh idea I used this firmware and fixes. https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-control

I've built GBS-C from GBS-8200 primarily for my Jaguar, so I can play games on my 19" VGA CRT monitor. As it turned out, my Atari 65XE with VBXE also works just fine. Really nice, zero lag. https://ramapcsx2.github.io/gbs-control/

Have you seen this? Complete instructions with link to Github. https://atari8bit.net/tutorials/de-re-sdrive-max

Well I've made this mod on my 1050 so that I can use both sides on my floppy disks. Granted, I don't use it very much, but now and then is simply great to use my stock 800XL like the "god" inteded it. Also, my local Atari "software dealer" had this mod ~35 years ago, but I could only afford tape drive back then. I also used RGB LED for this mod, since putting RGB in your computer makes it, by default, at least 10% faster.

Easy to follow instructions how to implement write protect/enable switch. WP_A1050n.pdf German Article from Happy Computer 11/1985 http://blog.3b2.sk/igi/post/ATARI-1050-Write-protect-switch.aspx

Here is the NTSC version. Bounty Bob Strikes Back! (1985)(Aackosoft)(NL)(en)[64k].xex

Well I'll be damned. I haven't run Atari 800 on mu Mist for a while now and you are right, no ATX support. Mister has one, and Bounty Bob XEX works fine on Mister. Now the fun part. On Mist I can run only NTSC over VGA cable, but can switch to PAL with SCART cable. And this Bounty Bob XEX apparently works only on PAL.

F10 is Reset and F8 is Option key. After you mount XEX, press F10 while holding F8. Game won't run with Basic in this case. https://github.com/mist-devel/mist-binaries/tree/master/cores/atari800 Same on both, Mist and Mister. Almost everything (if not all) should work, even ATX files.

Another PCB, specifically designed for mounting under the Atari motherboard. This would require drilling 15 holes in Atari PCB and removing part of the ground copper area around pins. This should provide sturdier connector since it would not be glued but soldered. PCB thickness 0.6-0.8mm recomended. SMB parts height is 1.7mm, so there should be enough clearance under the motherboard. Gerber_PCB_VBXE_1.1_2022-02-20.zip Schematic_VBXE_connector_1.1_2022-02-20.pdf

Connector is glued upside-down to the Atari motherboard (hot glue), PCB is soldered to the 13pin connector. 8pin right angle header also soldered to the PCB on the bottom side like 13pin connector. Pinout is directly compatible with Atari ST Scart cable, that's why no stereo. I guess with if one modifies ST Scart cable any unconnected pin on 13pin connector could be used for 2nd sound channel. 5 wires are connected to the VBXE, 3 wires are connected to the 5pin header where RF modulator was connected to the motherboard (sound, composite and +5V), all with dupont connector cables. Under the motherboard is around 5mm clearance. 1.0mm PCB and SMB parts 1.7mm this would make less than ~3.0mm thick populated board so I guess it would be possible to fit this PCB under the motherboard. You would have to drill 15 holes in Atari motherboard for 13pin connector and grind away ground copper around holes, like @flashjazzcat mounts 13pin connector for VBXE. This way connector wouldn't be hot glued but soldered and connector would be oriented the proper way. Another hole in Atari board for 8 wires and Bob is your uncle.

Sure, here are Gerber and schematic. For PCB manufacturing I use https://jlcpcb.com, best shipping price I've found so far. 3x capacitor 4.7uF 1206 Tantalum (https://si.farnell.com/kemet/t494a475k016at/cap-4-7-f-16v-10/dp/2747970) 1x voltage converter MAX680CSA+ (https://si.farnell.com/maxim-integrated-products/max680csa/ic-dual-volt-converter-soic8-680/dp/2519475) 1x 13pin DIN connector (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001356667356.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef18028ijBQd) 90 degree right angle 8pin header (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000660389713.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6a012cceB7afv9&algo_pvid=c1d56f84-6cfa-4e26-bf55-2c5bab47d19b&algo_exp_id=c1d56f84-6cfa-4e26-bf55-2c5bab47d19b-5&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"10000005517155325"}&pdp_pi=-1%3B0.65%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BEUR%3Bsearch-mainSearch) Enjoy Gerber_PCB_atari_vbxe_13pin_scart_2022-02-19.zip Schematic_atari_vbxe_13pin_scart_2022-02-19.pdf

It's convenient for cable management, soldering wires directly to connector pins is pain in the ass, but also converts 5V to 10V for Scart input detection signal. TV's can switch automatically to AV Scart input where your Atari is connected if there is a 9-12V signal on pin 8 (Atari ST also provides 12V on pin 8), so you don't have to manually switch inputs with remote. After you switch Atari off TV switches back to manually set input. I belive this should also work with Lotharek's Hydra.

Finished product, waited for the PCB and connector. Added 5V to 10V voltage converter for Scart pin 8, automatic Scart input switch.

I have both Mist and Mister. If you are NOT interested in NeoGeo and upcoming Saturn and PlayStation 1 cores and don't mind manually configuring arcade cores and roms Mist is a good choice. Main difference between Mist and Mister: - Mister have much more RAM - Mister have HDMI, VGA, Scart output while Mist have only VGA - Mister can play MIDI music without any additional device, Atari ST, Amiga, PC and X68000 cores supports this - Mist provides classic 5pin MIDI ports and USB MIDI while Mister provides only USB MIDI connection - Mister have built in Linux OS and is automatically updated with scripts, for Mist you need to setup your SD cards manually - Mister have network and with it internet connectivity - Mister is harder to get now and more expensive - for Mist, If you don't have VGA monitor/TV, you will also need HDMI-to-VGA converter, preferably gaming upscaler like OSSC which also can be very expensive - Mist is probably better solution for Atari ST musicians, you just connect and are good to go (after you manually set up SD card, which is really easy for Atari) - Mist have 2x 9pin joystick ports, for Mister you'll need USB joystick/gamepad or adapters Atari 8bit works great on both. On Mist Atari ST and Amiga core even supports direct, RAW SD access for hard disk storage emulation (faster HD), but you can't load floppy images then (FAT16/32 partition on SD is needed for that). If you are interested in Mister, then I would recommend this: https://rmcretro.store/multisystem-board-only/ As you can see, it gets quite pricey.