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kevincondrick@gmail.com

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Posts posted by kevincondrick@gmail.com

  1. Ok I just got an Atari linx from eBay the other day And everything works fine it starts up good the screen looks good. When I tryed playing a game I noticed that both the a and b buttons wornt working. For example I tried playing awesome golf and it says to press a or b to start. Well iv been pressing a and b and... Well a makes the speech disable and enable and that's what the option2 button dose. Idk what the problem is. I did already have it open and everything looks good and not corroded so idk. The reset button works but I noticed that it don't always flip the screen. So if anyone knows more about this that would be grate!

  2.  

    57 minutes ago, chicgamer said:

    It might help if you shared what issues you're having. Is the screen too dark to see? Is the Game Gear not powering on? Are there audio issues?

     

    I think we have quite a few members here who do repairs.

    Well I got a few of these GG's and I ended up with 2 kinda working ones. Ok so the one has a black line going across the screen. well it's not even a black line it's just duller the the rest. But note I've changed the caps and it's still there.

     

    Then on another one evening works good except the sound note I did change the caps on the sound board and even swapped out sound boards with a known good one, same result. It is making sound tho if I have headphones plugged in you can just barely hear it tho. Note I changed all the caps on the main unit as well. It's not a cap issue I don't think.

     

     

    Also I have like 2 others that just turn on for a second and shut off... I know that this means there's a short somewhere on the board. Well I've cleaned it up changed the caps and we'll , still same result... I've just about given up on these unless you guys can help. 

  3. 11 minutes ago, Bratwurst said:

    Sometimes a capacitor replacement fixes auto-shutoff, sometimes it doesn't, it's very tough to diagnose. If you can open the unit to look inside and see a lot of obvious corrosion, I would write off the system.

    Yah I cleaned everything and everything looks good I even tryed to resoldering the ics and still nothing. I actually have one that was worse then that and I had to replace some traces and it actually works fine 

  4. Ok so I recently picked up a Sega game gear and I heard alot about the caps going bad on them. Well I ended up replacing all the caps on the main,sound and the power boards. And everything works but the sound. It dose however make a constant clicking sounds when you turn the volume up. Is there any idea what it could be? I've already ruled out it's something on the main board cuz when I switched the power supply and the sound board to another game gear it all worked fine. 

  5. 4 minutes ago, crisalan44 said:

    Console5.com, I believe he is out of stock right now but Rugger's Customs is going to be restocking him very soon I believe. They are 9.95 I think and a great way to protect agaisnt static electricty ruining your controller chip. If your chip is bad you need to replace it before you put the esd joystick boards on. Rugger's is offering a great deal this month on a console revamp and they are without question the BEST in the business, it is a great price they are offering through June to have your colecovision completly redone with out any cutting of your console. I would highly reccommend them especially since you have a broken chip already. It is almost a give away at the price they have right now. ?

     

    Hay thanks I'll give it a try 

    • Like 1
  6. Were can  I get some at

    51 minutes ago, crisalan44 said:

    Rugger's esd boards are a great investment less then 5 bucks each(have them in one console about to install in 2 more) and easy easy to install(way easier then removing and installing new 74541 chips) if you had them you would not have this problem which is not to hard to fix just a bunch of pain in the ass desoldering and soldering. Peace!

     

     

  7. So I just fired up my ColecoVision for the first time in awhile and it all works like usual. I played it for about an half-hour and the the first player controller started drifting and eventually got stuck going to the right. I had a similar problem like this with my Atari 2600. It turns out it was a falty buffer chip. Any idea if that could be the problem here?

  8. 17 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:

    I've thought of designing a power board that uses nothing but buck converters for all voltages.  That would also help cool down those two transistors.  But the sticking point there would be that it would be my first real power supply project :)

    So yah I have it put in with the L7812 and it will work ok with the heat sink on but like if I leave it on to long it will get really hot and screw up but I don't have any thermal paste. What do you suggest the best stuff to use is?

     

    The other PCB has the same L7812 and no heat sink on it and it seams to work better / cooler. Mind that one the first pcb that I replaced just about everything on it except the 7805 regulator and the diodes. So you think it's just running hot cuz of the dioeds or the other voltage regulator? So the problem is definitely from the 7812. I know that cuz I did it without a heatsink and it screwed up in like 3 mins. Wile with the heat sink it's maybe 30 mins to an hour with no thermal paste. You think the thermal paste will make it last alot longer? Or could there be some better solution.

  9. 5 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

    The VRs in the Intelly do get really hot. Especially the 7805. it is the only classic console I've seen that has a heatsink the 7805 bolts onto, and also has another smaller heatsink that attached ontop of the 7805. I ended up replacing both VRs out with DC-DC converters. The only heat in the system now is that from the transformer and the main ICs on the main logic board.

     

    Well I'm still just wondering how long it'll be till they go bad again. Also I didn't know this but apparently on somegames it'll to to like a standby mode after so long. I know on astrosmash it dose.

  10. 4 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:

    Most manufacturers will use the same basic part number (maybe a couple extra letters) for the same component.  But if it's a 12V regulator with the same pinout, that's all it needs to be.

     

    When it was working, did you happen to take voltage measurements?  (Yellow is ground attach point for multimeter)

     

    Testpoints.thumb.png.7b9e306285cca17caac0ca38b7ac5cce.png

    Well it was a worry at first cuz I put one in and it instently got fryed. But then I noticed that it just shorted to the ground pin. But I did put in another one and it worked fine and it might've been the whole problem. Cuz iv played games for over an hour and it all worked fine although it got real hot after awhile. But it all worked 

  11. Success!! 

     

    Although it was a rollercoaster of emotions

    I think I did find the problem. 

     

    Well it's almost a successful run but I'm still happy.

     

    Ok I do believe that the main problem was that UA7812 cuz I've been playing it for about an hour but it did get really hot and eventually stopped working. But it was a much longer time then last time and this time it seams the cpu was getting hot so maybe that's another problem. But idk I'm happy that it dose run for a longer period of time. I am planning on changing out the that UA 7805 to but I think it can only get better from here ? also I Don't think it's something wrong with the logic board cuz I did get another logic board and I plugged it in to and it did shut off to do it's definitely something on the power supply/ or the transformer. I have a few more test to do but we are definitely getting somewhere ??

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