kevincondrick@gmail.com
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Posts posted by kevincondrick@gmail.com
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Dose anyone know if the L7812 voltage regulators the same a UA7812
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3 hours ago, IMBerzerk said:
This is a great candidate for a write-up and a sticky... think maybe you could take some pics and provide part numbers? A lot of PCB repairs would benefit from replacing that crap ribbon.
Well I'm just an amature trying to get my intv working. But if you want I can show you what I did. Idk what parts I even used lol I just found a old cable I cold rig something up to
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59 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:
I'm curious about the spacing of that connector's holes. If it's a standard like 0.1" between pins, then there are a number of possible modern replacements. An example would be a JST XH-series connector, like what some drones use for battery connection. Another possibility would be a Molex KK series. But I don't find any ready-made cables for that so you'd have to buy the male and female connectors, as well as the crimp ends and a crimper, and of course wire to construct the cable.
The existing connector looks like maybe a section of a machine pin socket for ICs, which would make it 0.1" pitch.
Yah it works that's what I used. Like a socketed ic connecter. I soldered it on the cable and it fits in the holes perfect ?
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47 minutes ago, IMBerzerk said:
Came out of a working unit. All the spares I have other than the two PCB boards are all working units.
I like that cable. Where did you get it?
Ok. And I got it from an old PC
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1 minute ago, IMBerzerk said:
Glad the PB at least got you something to compare to. ?
What are you planning on using to replace the ribbon. I once used a CAT5 cable, seemed to work ok. It would be great to have a legit and reliable replacement we can use. That cable is a weak link to say the least
Now did you know if the pb was good ?
And
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44 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:
Hehe. Well actually I was thinking that it may be possible to use a more modern connector/cable pair that doesn't have the breaking problem, but you have to make sure that the new connector's holes line up with the old PCB.
Yah I've already got it planned out but thanks ?
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Oo wait nevermind ? I just read that wrong.
Yah I already got a cable lined up
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1 hour ago, ChildOfCv said:
I was afraid of that. Do you have a good digital caliper that can read the distance between the two outside holes on the connector on the power board?
Like what do you mean? Like my meater?
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I have been checking anything else I could find that could go wrong and I found that my ribbon cable was no longer making continuity. So I am also going to have to replace that.
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5 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:
Yeah, if you're not getting 12V there but you're getting 20V+ on the middle pin, then the 7812 is bad.
That's what I suspected. I had one that works from the other PCB and I swapped it in there and when I did so it wasn't working and I know it was before. Maybe I heated it up to much and damaged it? But I also know that that 23v goes to the one leg of that regulator, you think that can caz it to go bad if there rated for a lower voltage or something?
I believe that is why I'm not getting any picture, but why on both pcbs one that should be good I get the same 20v on the cap to ground? Surely there both not bad, heck the one I just about replaced everything on it. There's no way that I can be still a bad caponit on there. I have yet to change the diods and main caps but I am planning on doing so.
Also I looked at this video showing how to test a good transformer and all my readings came out ok so I'm really stumped unless it gets hot,witch it dose and makes the voltage differ. Even when the consoles shut off it gets a little warm if it's been plugged in for a bit.
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I've watched this video and checked the voltage. All then we're the same exact the second prong that's 12.v and that goes right to the one prong on the voltage regulator.
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Just for reference how do you test one of those voltage regulators? Is it
/////////////////
/ 7812 /
/. /
/////////////////
L. L. L.
In. Grd out
5.v 12.v
So wold you just test the out to ground ?
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I just checked the ribbon cable with the power on I'm only getting 2. Something on the second prong
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48 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:
Static means you aren't getting 12V to the logic board. (Or you're looking at the wrong channel or don't have something plugged in...)
What makes you sure you shorted the 12V out?
Well, even if you did, it likely didn't hurt anything on the logic board. "Short circuit" means that the power came back sooner than expected, in other words, it bypassed the normal circuit. Things which are still in the circuit do risk destruction (like the 7812 regulator). Is it possible that you just broke the wire in the ribbon cable? I understand those are solid wires, and solid wires will fatigue and break after bending too many times.
Yah that's my thought I know on my old pcb that the 12.v regulator was bad but with the new one everything is good the odd thing I saw was when it was powered on the 12 was at the 2 prongs by the 10000 if cap but on the other side of the blue wire it was only 5.somthing
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12 hours ago, kevincondrick@gmail.com said:
Also when I try it on the TV nothings coming up it's just all like static no black screen
I think I might have blown something on the logic board. I have accidently shorted the 12v regular to ground with the logic board plugged in. So if you have any ideas give me a shoutout. Or if you think it's just best to get a new logic board you'd probably know where to get one
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Also when I try it on the TV nothings coming up it's just all like static no black screen
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Ok so I got another power supply thanks to IMBerzerk and I'm getting about the same result. 22.1 on just that capacitor and about 20.2 when it's all plugged in the logic boards plugged in ... So I'm feeling its the transformer
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11 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:
For future reference, here's a cleaned up schematic and PCB for the power board. I don't know if I got all the labels right (blobs are just hard to read, after all), but I'll refer to these labels since they're readable.
Do you know what the k means on the diodes
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1 hour ago, ChildOfCv said:
For future reference, here's a cleaned up schematic and PCB for the power board. I don't know if I got all the labels right (blobs are just hard to read, after all), but I'll refer to these labels since they're readable.
Ok thanks ?
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18 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:
Possibly, but it's not the best solution. Just a convenient test.
Here's another question: With everything still hooked up, test in AC mode, between the two blue points. Then between the two red points.
I got 10.6 on both
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9 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:
Possibly, but it's not the best solution. Just a convenient test.
Here's another question: With everything still hooked up, test in AC mode, between the two blue points. Then between the two red points.
I'll test it tomorrow i don't have time now
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1 minute ago, ChildOfCv said:
They were draining a lot of power straight to ground, so yeah they were going to get hot. It's possible that they are quarter-watt resistors too, and in my head I was thinking of half-watt resistors to do the job. Basically they have to handle 2W of power. So definitely not a permanent solution, but I only wanted to know if they would ease the suffering of the logic board.
I mean it did seam to help alittl you think if I were to add more resistors it could get back down to were it needs ?
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Just now, ChildOfCv said:
Yeah there's definitely something weird going on with the 2200 if you get such crazy readings. It's as if it connects for a little bit, then due to temperature changes or whatever, it disconnects and then repeats.
Yah those resistors were real hot that on there to I didn't know if that was normal or not.
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Intellivision graphics corruption
in Intellivision / Aquarius
Posted
I put it in circuit and it seams to work. I have yet to test for a long period of time but as or right now it seams to work fine ?