kevincondrick@gmail.com

May 4, 2020

Just now, ChildOfCv said:

Then it sounds like the capacitor isn't making a good connection. It could be the opposite of the usual problem (internal short/leakage) and instead the wire is broken inside. Did you already replace the 2200?

I have not but I did replace the smaller caps the .1uf and the 100uf. Also I know I blow out that one voltage 12.v regulator wile testing ? so that might be a problem I plan on getting a new one of them. Also I also planed on getting new caps for the 2 main. So if you think that's the problem we can check it all again when I replaced them

May 4, 2020

2 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:

It cycles between 14 and 0 volts? And that's without you moving the probes?

Yah it jumps around but it seams like 14 is the highest

May 4, 2020

I did resolder some of the things but I don't think there ever was a cap in there

May 4, 2020

I did try that it goes up to about 14 then 0s out and dose it again.

May 4, 2020

Yah there still connected they get really hot tho. Also what about the c5 missing you think that's a problem

May 4, 2020

4 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:

Oh, and put the 7407 you have back in. Let's really draw some power from the board.

With everything together it's about 20.6

May 4, 2020

It's still 22.3v

1 minute ago, ChildOfCv said:

Yeah, that's it. Leave the logic board ribbon cable unplugged, and get a voltage reading with black and red on opposite legs of the capacitor.

May 4, 2020

1 minute ago, kevincondrick@gmail.com said:

Like this

The voltage is still pretty high it's 22.3

May 4, 2020

Like this

May 4, 2020

Oo ok I see

May 3, 2020

55 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:

Yes, that's what I described. Roll them together so that it's one massive resistor. The reason for that is to increase the power handling of the bunch while making a 250-ohm load. So twist all 4 leads of one side of each resistor together. Twist all 4 leads of the other side of the resistor together. Now connect a lead to one side of the capacitor and one lead to the other side of the capacitor. Now put the black lead on the "-" side of the capacitor and the red lead on the other side, and take a DC voltage reading. That's why I suggested that alligator clips could help.

Ok this is what I did I got like 3.97 ohm on just the resistors. Then with it on the cap it still comes up with 23.2 v

I also noticed that c5 was missing.

May 3, 2020

7 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:

CP? You mean the capacitor? It shouldn't be getting warm. That usually means leakage, though in this case a little bit of leakage would help.

Is there any residue on the PCB where the capacitor was?

Were you able to try the resistor loading test?

That makes sense. The capacitor is there to smooth the AC power. When the input is 17.1V, it reaches a peak voltage through the bridge rectifier of 23V. Just like filling a sink, if the capacitor is being filled by the source current but nothing is taking it, the "sink" will fill up at 23V. When the logic board is pulling power, that is supposed to keep it down to 18V or less. But with no "sink" at all, the voltage will jump up and down from 0 to 23V. The DC meter will average it out, which seems to read about 16V. But if you switch to AC and take the same reading, it will also be about 16V.

No I haven't tryed it yet because like idk what to do like you want me to put the resistors from one end of the cap to the other? Also I wouldn't know how to test it.

The CP chip (cpu) I noticed it was getting fairly warm when I have that all plugged in. For testing this all I got it all unplugged.

We will figure this out alittl at a time!!

May 3, 2020

Also I took the negative lead off the 2200 cap and now I get the 16 v from the positive of the cap to ground

May 3, 2020

33 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:

That's an acceptable value. Plus, that resistor feeds the 5.6V to the STIC VCC, so unless something is going weird over there you're probably okay.

Well, with the ribbon cable connected, check the voltage on both sides of that resistor. I guess we can also figure out if the STIC is getting proper voltage. It should be about 5.6V on one side (the output to the logic board) and higher on the other side.

Well that seams to be ok . Iv notice that the CP was getting warm but idk if it's from the transistors or if it's bad voltage

May 3, 2020

2 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:

But also check the resistance in ohms mode. If it's about 12 ohms, that will beep the continuity tester, but it's still the correct resistance and does not indicate a short.

Ok yah I did check it was 13 ohms

May 2, 2020

15 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

If you are talking about the large resistor on the power board, that is a 12ohm. Cap kits I buy have the option to add a 12ohm 3watt replacement for the originals.

Thanks I do have some resisters I'll just use one of them

May 2, 2020

7 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:

Do you know what the residents rating is on that big resistor (R2) on the supply board? If so maybe I'll try changing it out if I have the right size resistor.

Also I'm pretty sure it was making continuity between the 2 legs cuz at first I thought it was a fuse and I tested it as on and yah it was making continuity. So I have a feeling that it's either gonn bad or just has a really low residents level.

May 1, 2020

Ok yah I got some 1 k resistors now what sold I do

May 1, 2020

41 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:

Well I don't like shotgunning the parts, especially if they test good. Unfortunately, analog electronics get tricky to diagnose because a problem created by one bad part can show up in a different circuit entirely.

If anything, I'd suggest ordering a resistor in the 200-ohm 2W range, or 4 1K resistors and doing as I suggested above, if you're going to order parts. This would give an idea of whether the board/transformer are too aggressive or if the logic board isn't pulling hard enough. If the leads of the resistor(s) aren't long enough, you may also need to get some small alligator clips to connect them for the test.

And to be more precise with a previous question: Have you reflowed the solder on the entire power supply board?

No I haven't resolderd the whole powder supply. Also I just soldered in a socket for the 7407 chip so I can take it out easily. But I will try to re solder the parts

May 1, 2020

52 minutes ago, IMBerzerk said:

I have to say I respect that you are really deep in this. It's great to see guys being able to troubleshoot shoot to this level!

As far as repairing it.. if you get to a point that individual parts are hard to find, I have 2 spare power boards and I'd be happy to part with one.

But I won't sway you. I know what it's like to wire worm stuff and want to stick with it till it fixed. Good on you! Keep going!

Thanks I'll let you know if I need to get one or if I get it fix !

May 1, 2020

So what do you suggest I do now I don't have any diodes to replace them with but I can order some up if you think that would be the best to replace them.

May 1, 2020

Do you know what I can replace the voltage regulators with ?

May 1, 2020

The second one right below the 2200 cap

And I was just testing the diod in the diod test to see if it was reading both ways . Witch it wasn't.

And in that message I ment .5 not 5.

Also I don't have any resisters on hand

One more thing I did was changed the one 100uf cap on there.

Is it possible for this voltage regulator to be bad?

April 30, 2020

You think that it cold be the cap?

April 30, 2020

.51 on the one diode

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