Jump to content

YannAros

Members
  • Posts

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by YannAros

  1. Nice to see one working, the first one isn’t far from, you should be able to fix it, and now you can compare the signals from the ones of a working one too, it always helps.

    Keep us posted on the progress.

     

    PS : for people in Europe I have some adapter available, just pm me if you’re interested 

  2. Is there any change when you play with the potentiometer (R22)?

     

    I would start looking at the ouptut of U6 (pin 3 to 6) and check if any is giving a signal when pixel should be black.

    If yes go to output of U4 and check the same (pin 3 to 6).

    If again you see weird signals go to input of U4 (pin 11 to 14).

     

    With this information we will be able to look further for the root cause.

     

    Looking at the color you see (brown) I suspect sothing allong the Signal chain leading to O1:

    O1(U10, pin3)  <= C1(U6, pin6)  <= V1(U4, pin6)  <= B1(U4, pin11)

    Check especially R16, bad soldering of this one could explain the issue, a bad value (too high), also.

  3. I've progressed and found out the following is broken:

    image.thumb.png.1f6574bcfece87c4379ad51c6c257638.png

    The path highlighted in yellow is in short circuit, i.e. the transistor in IC5001 is always conducting.

    R5001 and R5002 got broken.

    In the protection circuit, Q5001 and D5007 are also dead!

     

    I've ordered a new STK7308 (IC5001) and remaining broken components.

     

    I let you know!

     

    • Like 1
  4. I have acquired a PCW8512 which doesn't power up.

    First investigation showed me that the fuse is broken and R5001 is as well (showing an open circuit).

    R5001 is the big white resistor that can be seen in your 2 first pictures.

     

    I've ordered replacement resistors but haven't got them yet.

     

    Have you progressed in your repair since last year? If yes any advice on what to look at further?

    • Like 1
  5. Hi,

     

    I have a PAL Atari 2600 JR that is presenting a strange bug.

    Randomly the some sprite positions seam to be reset to 0 and then come back to the expected position.

     

    It happens after some few (2-3) minutes of operation.

     

    Did anyone ever experienced this?

    Who can it come from? TIA or CPU seems the best candidates.

     

    Thank you

     

  6. @Yalush, I still have enough parts to build some, I'll contact you when I will have checked the shipment costs to Israel.

    What kind of technical details are you looking for?

     

    The adapter cable is plug and play and is looking like this :

    IMG_1803.thumb.JPG.c052bf07623572e6324aa

    You can switch from B&W to Color using a switch located in the connector on computer side.

    All native Apple II modes are displayed in colors, there are no new modes.

  7. I'm answering myself, the issue was with my power supply, apparently it was not powerfull enough to power the TI and the FinalGROM.

    I've changed to use an original one and now it is working again.

    • Like 8
  8. Hi,

     

    I just got a second hand FinalGROM and it was working ok for 1 hour.

    After that is started to behave strangely with some screen corruption and after 2/3 resets I doesn't work at all anymore.

    As soon as I start the computer I get this kind of screen, the LED isn't flashing (one flash and then stays OFF)

    IMG_2445.JPG

     

    I've tested with a blank SD Card and get the same.

    Did I break something?

    Shall I try to update it the AVR?

×
×
  • Create New...