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Dopy25

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Posts posted by Dopy25

  1. 3 minutes ago, CPUWIZ said:

    The form factor (low vs. high profile) may matter, never seen a SMS motherboard.

    The one installed is tall. I'll post a pic of the specific one when I get back home though. I do have pics of my board but idk if you can zoom in on the oscillator from this angle. Lower left of the image. The only thing stamped on it is the 10.7386, twice.

    PXL_20201126_011113542.jpg

  2. 5 minutes ago, CPUWIZ said:

    All you need to know is the frequency.  What does the crystal say on it?

    10.7386

     

    Would any of the ones in the attached image work? I can't find the difference in some of these. This is on digikey

    Screenshot_20201130-000301.png

  3. I can't seem to find an exact number replacement for an oscillator crystal for the NTSC SMS. Does anyone here have one or know which one is the correct replacement?

     

    If you know where to find one, please comment with link to purchase.

     

    If you have one that you are willing to part with, please PM for zip to estimate total with shipping.

  4. Thanks for the input. I already bought the one for coax at the tv and I have a pretty good quality RCA av cable to make it there. The one I used in the above pics was just something I had lying around and snipped it up. Pretty Terrible quality, tbh. 

     

    I don't plan on drilling into the case at all. I can't find the "deluxe" boards at a reasonable price shipped to the states, so I plan on buying the board from eBay and using one of these in place of the RF port:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHBQ5YV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_p-AVFb9VMSPAW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

  5. It's alive! Sorta. I got picture finally. I made an adapter and soldered an RCA cable to a coax cable and got this. I was able to fine tune some color by adjusting L6 and the 500k pot at R9 again but still got a ton of static. Any thoughts on how to clear this up? Would a composite mod make this a moot point or are those components relevant to composite and rf?

    PXL_20201124_204323753.jpg

  6. I posted a week ago about a junior I bought and boned the main capacitor. Well I got a new cap and replaced it, and the voltage regulator. The unit seems to get power on all chips but I can't seem to get any video output at all! The screen changes static but that's about it.

     

    I am using an NES RF cable as that is all I have around. Is the JR supposed to get 5v at the RF port like other consoles? I'm getting nothing. I ordered one of those RF/coax adapters that will be in tomorrow but I thought the NES box still worked for these.

     

    I reflowed every solder joint on the board and have the same result.

    I tried adjusting L6 to get an image with no impact.

    I also tried the 500k pot and still nothing. The 500k pot is a bit browned, is that normal? I will add a pic of the pot.

     

    As far as what I see on the screen, it is literally static, as if nothing was plugged in at all. I have read other posts with the same result and notice that channel is a common thing. I tried channels 2, and 3 with no luck. I am using an older TV, CRT with coax input. I tried switching the RF output on the jr. 

     

    I am only using carts not known to work, but I should still see a black screen, right? Shouldn't there be some sort of signal going to the TV?

     

    Does it have to have some sort of video output to do a composite mod? I paid $25 for this thing with a controller so I don't want to toss a bunch more money at it. I really wanted to get into Atari and thought I got lucky finding this for that price (even "untested") but at this point I think I made a bad decision and I really hope that's not the case.

     

    Any advice?

    PXL_20201124_163005870.jpg

    PXL_20201117_043804545.jpg

    PXL_20201117_043834054.jpg

  7. I did a cardinal sin...

     

    Long story short: I did not triple check my polarity for the adapter I made and I blew the main capacitor. Is it still possible this may work if I replace the main cap?

     

    I bought a junior from Ebay that was identified as "untested" on a whim. I got it in the mail and decided to clean it up a bit before testing. I did not have an original power supply and did not want to invest in one if I could not get the "untested" unit working. I also have a loose game (no shell) that I put in the slot to test so that may be bad as well but that is irrelevant now.

     

    I realized too late and I heard a small pop. Well I unplugged it and realized the issue. Then I swapped the polarity to match what it should, and when I plugged it in I heard a louder pop when I pressed power. The light lit up and there were wavy lines on the screen but the game did not load. After the pop, I unplugged the unit and gave it a deeper clean. I cut off the main cap to clean the board from the leakage but now I am more worried. 

     

    If I got ahold of a main capacitor (or a kit to replace any of the other components) is there any possibility this will rise from the grave? I see I can get the replacement on Console5. I think I will try that and go from there. Might as well grab a 5v regulator as well but can anyone here suggest any other components to replace on here? I will add pics of my board.

     

    Side note, does anything show on screen when no cart, or a bad cart is inserted?

     

    PXL_20201117_043804545.jpg

    PXL_20201117_043834054.jpg

  8. Are these still available? I have a need for one for sure, because I bought one without a shell in a lot of other random items on ebay. I still don't know the game but might find out today. Would be ironic if it was either of the two listed. I'm new to Atari. I just bought a junior for $25 though. It was too good to pass up. I used to see them in thrift stores as a kid and wanted one so bad but we were poor. What can you do.

     

    I could use the other cart for a project. I'm hoping shipping isn't more than what cheap games are on ebay. I use pirate ship and get a discount.

     

    I'll send a PM!

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