MattS

In case anyone is in the Austin area. The Cedar Park costco has a full pallet of them.

Thank you! I have been using JLCPCB but never knew they did 3D printing( I guess i never checked!). I really appreciate you help.

Thank you! I have the regular switches but soldering the low profile switches for those keys would not be a problem at all.

Does anybody have extra stems that convert from the new switches to the OEM atari keycaps? My 3d printer doesn't do a good job and I am not really wanting to spend money for a resin printer right now. I only need 5 or 6(for the reset, help, etc). I would be willing to pay for the cost of the materials, labor and shipping. Thank you.

Thank you very much!

Sorry in advance if this sounds stupid. I ordered the PCB and forgot to have the components soldered. Not a big deal now that i have all the components. I just wanted to clarify that the LED SMT goes "within the keycap border" and the resistor on the pads just outside? The diodes are easy to figure out since they are the different size pads. Just wanted to ask all of you before i solder them. Thank you in advance.

I am sorry I did not respond. I did that and the 1050 booted up a disk with no problem.

Thank you. I had re-flowed all the solder at the j4 connector. I checked the continuity of out the ribbon cable and all is good. I also checked the continuity of the J4 connector to its next solder point on the board.

This is extremely helpful! I received 74LS373 and SN74L38 today. The 74LS14 is on backorder. I will be installing sockets so I can test out these( and other chips) as I continue with the trouble shooting. I will also switch out those transistors when they arrive. Again, Thank you!

Thank you. I checked the jumper and it is set to 0. This has definitely been a challenge. I am hoping to avoid have to look at the PCB on the actual drive itself as that looks like quite a bit of work.

just a quick update. I reflowed every solder joint on the mother board. Still no luck. I will replace some transistors when they arrive. I will also be removing the chips and installing sockets so i can check to see if it is a bad chip. Other than that. Anyone have any other ideas? Everyone's help has been much appreciated.

Thank you. I have already used multiple cables with no luck. The 1050's on the same cables and SIO port work fine.

First of all, thank you very much..this has been very helpful. I used the logic probe and noted that signal that is different is at the 74LS38. Pin 6 is High, Pin 4 is High but Pin 5(to pin 34 of the 8040) is Low. That makes sense since Pin 34 is Low the 8040 is Pin 1 is Hi Pin 39 is Low Pin 34 is Low SIO pins 3,5,7 are low when everything off and Hi when turned on. SIO Pin 3(Data In)-High to pin 6 of LS38 which was high SIO Pin 5(Data Out)- High to 8040 Pin 1 High SIO Pin 7(Command)- High to 8040 Pin 6 High

Thank you the transistor follow up. I ordered a few just in case. I did remove Q1,Q2 and Q3. I tested them with a multifunction tester, which they came back with no obvious faults. I re-installed them and checked Pin 6 on the 8040. The logic probe came back as "low". I also checked pin 34 which comes off the SN74LS38 and it came back as "low". I am not very good with a logic probe so not really sure if that is normal for those pins. I did replace all the resistors that are connected to Q1,Q2 and Q3. I will probably replace the transistors when the shipment arrives and I may also socket the S38 and try another chip to see if that changes anything. Any other suggestions? Thank you very much for your help!

I did reflow the joints for the power plug and switch, no changes. Thank you.