ScreamingAtTheRadio

For sure. I'm surprised they put 3D prints and PCBs in the same order though, they used to separate them.

Depends if you mean a group buy or just a larger order. When I have sets printed, I do them in batches of two (a single part with two sets of 5 console keys), and it saves some money (not a lot). You'll also save some shipping to the US, but not a lot as JLCPCB's shipping costs depend on the weight, and there's a threshold where the cheapest options become unavailable. Also keep in mind that you'll have to pay for shipping inside the US once you've done your group buy, and the cheapest package shipping options with USPS are going to be probably $6-7. So not convinced a group buy makes sense. It does for PCBs because there's a minimum quantity, but that's not the case for printing...

The LED brightness has been moved to the main PCB for that reason, meaning you can't use the new flex PCB cable with older revisions of the PCB, sorry. Or you'd have to get creative and wire a pot somewhere yourself. Can't really help with that The LED circuit is cleanly separated though, so should be possible.

Yes, they complain about something every time, even on reorders. very nice build! Good tip about using a stronger switch on space… connectors are no longer an issue as I now ship flexible PCBs instead. Perfect fit, no clearance issues… your console keys are a little low. I use a 3D printed mini-plate to raise those at the correct height.

I wanted to point out, if anyone was wondering, a DecentXE keyboard works and looks great in an XEGS:

Sending those prototype designs for fabrication next week:

Oh yes, none of this requires resin precision. I do mine on an Anycubic Kobra Max.

Yes. They're not merged into the main branch yet though: 3d-junkyard/Atari130MX/Stabilizers/HeightPadding.stl at DecentXE-rev14 · bleroy/3d-junkyard (github.com) There's also a small printable plate for console key alignment that also raises the low-profile switches to the correct height: 3d-junkyard/Atari130MX/Stabilizers/LowProRaiserPlate.stl at DecentXE-rev14 · bleroy/3d-junkyard (github.com)

Sure, if you're willing to pay the price they're going to ask, there are other, more expensive options that give you a wider choice of materials. Way more expensive though I'm afraid. The good news is that the STL files are available in the repo. Of course, another option, if you're willing to deal with the nastiness of resin printing, is to get a cheap resin printer, some translucent red resin, and do it yourself...

I agree the red resin looked amazing. Unfortunately, that's not an option for production. I only have a small resin printer at home that I try to use as little as possible, only for prototypes that require high resolution. Resin is nasty and the less I have to use it (and clean it), the better. Production prints are done by JLCPCB or PCBWay, where the material and color options are much more limited. If somebody really, really wanted a set done in a specific resin, I could be convinced of doing it, but I'd have to apply a surcharge because it's so much additional work.

Today I received a big bag of clicky Alps switches. What could that possibly be for?...

And here's the XL prototype: Latest revision of design files are here: 3d-junkyard/Atari130MX at DecentXE-rev14 · bleroy/3d-junkyard (github.com) There's also this thread that has the full history of the keyboard projects: ... and if folks want to buy a kit or an assembled keyboard, head here:

The XE keyboard is available now (XL keyboard early November), but the XE case needs more work, that I've been prioritizing in favor of keyboards for other models of Atari 8-bit (currently working on 1200XL). I'm having my prototype cases printed by JLCPCB and PCBWay and the finish is fantastic, very smooth, doesn't feel 3D-printed. PCBWay now also does post-printing spray painting which I'm experimenting with right now. I hope this answers your questions.

I received mine, can't wait to try it, and compare it to what I'm getting out of Sophia2.

To give you the option to get power from another source for the backlighting, if I correctly interpreted your question. You can ignore that.

Oh, the four contacts at the top-right? Ignore that, those enable you to wire F1-F4 to external switches. I use it to connect the function keys on the Sidecar XE85.

FWIW, I've greatly improved the silkscreen around these, so hopefully now this is easier to figure out. The jumpers determine what the key above left shift does. In one position (modern, closest to the keys), it's caps, and the other (vintage, both jumpers shorted away from the keys), it's control. The rest of the keyboard is unaffected, and modern / vintage is just about where you solder the switches for del, return, break, etc. Here's a photo of the modern config on a rev 14 board: And here's the back of a rev 11 vintage configuration: As for the backlighting brightness pot, I put 6mm 2k pots in there, and that enables you to adjust the brightness. You can also just put a resistor of your choice if you don't care about adjusting. Does this make sense?

You don’t. Only the key above left shift needs special setup (which you’ll have to do no matter what). All other keys rely on their position alone. Return has two switch footprints:one for vintage and one for modern.

The ISO return key and layout are something you specify when you order the caps (also mention 2.25u left shift). For the vintage layout, you have to solder two jumper wires differently on the left of the keyboard. That switches the key over the left shift between caps and control. The rest of the keyboard is just about what switches you install where. Left shift, if you use modern key caps, uses Durock v2 stabilizers like the space bar. Those come with bars. If using vintage caps, you need to use Costars and it quit efinnicky to get right. You can bend your vintage bars or build your own.

I think this is the file you're looking for: https://github.com/bleroy/3d-junkyard/blob/main/Atari130MX/Caps/wasd-inkscape-iso85-atari-130mx-Stock_Graphite_Caps.svg

Yes, if you look at the reference implementations for the 2040, this is well documented and not very difficult at all. 2040s have built-in usb (and other standard debug ports) that can be used to deploy firmware updates. Too early to say what would be possible to reprogram the CPLD after the fact without special equipment, no idea about that yet. [... five minutes later... ] CPLD Programming · hoglet67/RGBtoHDMI Wiki (github.com) Seems like the prior art on the current boards should be mostly applicable...

Yes, $15-16 is not bad. I'm thinking whether one could build a derived design with Pi Pico, which is an entirely different beast, for sure, but is still capable of outputting DVI and is dirt cheap (you could even completely integrate the design and have a single board with the CPLD and a 2040 chip, and not need a separate microcontroller board at all.

That's quite interesting and potentially a good alternative to the unobtainable Sophia2 provided you have a spare Raspberry Pi to use it with. I ordered a board with the intention to explore hacking on the RGB2HDMI side.

The XL keyboard is still a prototype, sorry. The production version is not quite ready, and I don't yet know the cost of all parts. I'll start a new thread when I'm ready to take orders. If you want to PM me though, I can put you on a waiting list.

I always love to see photos from people's builds... Thanks again for sharing this thread. It contains a boatload of very interesting information and prior art. Still going through it, and there's definitely some info to integrate to the production models of the XL keyboard.