Atari2600PAL

Thank you, I’ll prepare a disk then and see how I get on when the card arrives Many thanks @apersson850

I'm new to disks/PEB on a 99 (back in the day only had a tape drive & synth) Is it too much to hope that if I upload this dsk file to my TIPI I can just copy the PASCAL file it extracts to a normally formatted disk and it will work with the p-code card please? Many thanks

Just purchased a P-code Card, I think my PEB is full now (if it works, won't know until it arrives in a few weeks) Slot 8 is reserved for the stupidly long floppy cable! Am wondering if I could buy an FD controller end plug to fit further down the cable and (after testing) cut off the excess ribbon? Are the plugs available please? If so, what should I be searching for please? EDIT: I cant just use a shorter cable as its modified at the FD drives ends to make the drives 40 rather than 80 track Many thanks

Thanks for all the info @matthew180, much appreciated Both monitors are actually Sony TV’s with very limited options in the menu. (My modern monitor was a non-starter, I realised, as it wouldn’t work with the other devices. I do have an OSSC etc. but not very impressed with it so far so it’s still in its box) The output on the larger Sony TV is pretty amazing, the F18a is a great upgrade

Just tried my spare TV (that I replaced with a small one to make room on my rack for the PEB) and it looks great on that I guess I'm going to have to rearrange my systems on the rack as I don't fancy trying to do a repair on the small screen TV, for now at least Many thanks all

As I WAS concerned about damaging the ribbon before I try another screen I've mounted the VGA port on the back (removed the component side shield) Tried changing the ribbon while I was at it, just in case it had an issue, but haze problem still remains. Will try another screen later. A bit wobbly but best I could do with a Stanley knife and not much else (most of my tools like my Dremel are in storage). But not my main console so didn't mind butchering it a bit. At least it's secure now.

Thanks for the info @matthew180 Will take a look at cutting the notch. But putting it in the lower case means leaving the shields off permanently? Is this ok please? Is the grounding issue a VGA only thing? I have other machines attached to the same screen (ZX Spectrum / RF, C64 / S-video, Atari 2600 / Scart composite) and they don't show any sign of a similar effect Many thanks

I did try plugging them into a strip earlier, next to each other, with everything else off and it was the same will get my modern monitor out of storage, hopefully tomorrow, and see what that looks like to compare Thanks

Just tried Force Command 80 column mode and the “issue” is too noticeable for me to use 80 col mode with this screen Will use it for just the crisper display it gives and avoid 80 col until I can test on another screen

Found some images on-line that confirmed it's the correct way around, so went ahead and re-assembled Have just run the ribbon cable out the back of the console for now, and picking up audio from the original composite lead connection Wow. What an amazing picture improvement. (The only slight issue is an effect similar to a slight moving heat haze, most noticeable on the cyan boot and basic screens, but I assume that's my old screen and can live with that for the vastly better image. Will try a newer monitor sometime, in the meantime I want to try out the 80 column mode) Well worth the upgrade!

I rather stupidly extracted the VDP before cleaning the thermal grease off so not 100% sure which way it was orientated in the socket (I think I know but not 100% sure) Could anyone confirm I have the F18A / Socket orientation correct before I fit it in the socket please? Many thanks!

Please ignore previous post Just dismantled the unit and there's no issue I can see to prevent ribbon cable running out between board and shield Should of dismantled before posting, sorry

Have received my F18A from @arcadeshopper today and am excited to fit it But I was wondering if anyone could give me any tips/do's/don'ts I should look out for before I start please? Having looked at various articles/faq/etc. I'm not 100% sure how best to approach this with regards to where/how to run the ribbon cable (I was intending to cut the case to attach the VGA connector in some way along with a 3.5mm socket for sound out on the back, but not sure if I should just run the ribbon able outside and rig up something external) Do I leave half/all the shielding off? Do I cut a slot in the shielding to run the cable out? or is there a way to run the flat ribbon with this mk1 version out of the shielding without cutting a slot please? Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated please Many thanks

Just noticed the old style tape box you are keeping carts in. I have a 6 draw one of those so will use that to store my carts instead of the plastic boxes I use now as it’ll hold more carts and make better use of my limited shelf space. Thanks for the pic. (Nice layout btw)

As @Vorticon took 30 years to figure it out it’s probably for the best as I don’t have that number of years left

Spoilers

Many thanks for the detailed information @jedimatt42, very informative thanks The reason I don't always turn the PI on is that currently I'm just playing/testing with the system, rather than using properly, and so am worried I might forget to turn off the PI before cutting power and corrupt something (not really a big deal if I did though). But I'll keep it "as is" as in the future I'll probably just leave it on anyway. I've not programmed anything since I had to give up work in 2018, so am building my system ready for the time when I can start using it in earnest Thanks again

Have now fitted a working switch so I think that's all the PEB issues fixed now (just some new cards to fit when I have them) Not sure it was worth all the effort and cost of fixing the switch, at least I'm not sure I'd do it again anyway. But it's nice that it works now. (Thought I'd broken my floppy drives after putting it all back together, but I'd forgotten to turn on the TIPIPEB PI which for some reason causes hangs when accessing physical drives if PI switched off. I'm sure there must be an obvious reason though) Many thanks for all the advise I've received, very much appreciated!

Have fitted the switch and all seems to be ok so far (no bangs or smoke at least) A couple of pictures of the bracket without the switch in place (not great focus though) in case they are of use

I've found time this evening to strip down the PEB ready to sort this weekend The replacement switch seems to be a perfect a fit thankfully I'll have to solder (and sleeve) the leads onto the new switch though so am using the black terminals (the original also seems to of been using them, difficult to be 100% sure as the terminals disintegrated getting the leads off)

Many thanks @jedimatt42, sounds like it should be straightforward enough even for me then!

All done and working. Many thanks for the advice

Just checked the switch with a continuity meter Each black / silver (on opposite side) pair are always continuous so I guess I can use either side It also shows each of the terminals nearest the label end gets continuity with the equivalent side terminal in the 2nd row when the switch is on and breaks continuity when off So I think I just need to look at the cabling to the existing switch to confirm which terminal should go where. Or even easier would be to just test the old switch when I take it out I guess Hopefully get time to fit it at the weekend sometime

Thanks, that’s good to know

Not sure at the moment. The metal rod part of the switch is on the black terminal side and on the original switch the rod is on the side used