KevinMos3

More multiplayer labels and a couple picture labels for plain label carts (Dirty Larry and Hydra). Haven't rounded the corners yet and have no immediate plans to actually use them.

Probably not worried about it any longer, since the thread was last active 13 years ago and the author was banned 10 years ago. Is this time trick in preparation for the new Bill and Ted movie? Whhooaa!

I completely respect your decision. As I was typing, I was hoping it would be received as more of a compliment than a criticism. It's something that I think of every time I see it happen but never say anything. I just hope that the point will be brought up with future releases and if the author chooses otherwise, that's totally their decision. Thank you for receiving it with grace and explaining your reasoning (I know you did not owe that to me, but it will help me feel better about it when I pop it into my console). You're a class act. There was another game that did the same thing just the other day (same color box and all). Perhaps it was two in such close succession that got me to say something.

I love the artwork, and I'm REALLY looking forward to this game. I also like when authors choose to go with an Atari style box and label. There's one thing I wish would be taken into consideration though, which is the quality of the game in comparison to the era of the 2600's timeline. Ex: The black label games being very early releases, '77-'81, had the quality you'd expect from an early release on a system, (not saying the games were bad -- many are classics -- but the graphics and game style were more simple, ie. typically single screen games with a few exceptions like Adventure, Berzerk, Superman, and most used double line sprites). The silver label games, typically '82-'84, usually had a pretty substantial leap in graphical quality (I'm thinking Pac-man vs. Ms. Pac-man or Pole Position vs. Street Racer). Many of these were multi-screen games and often used single line sprites, (Crystal Castles, Jungle Hunt, Kangaroo, Krull, Raiders of the Lost Ark, Vanguard, Battlezone). Red label games are the ones I viewed as a kid as being the really high quality games. These late releases often had yet another quality jump and the graphics usually really impressed me, even in the NES era -- when they weren't just re-labeled earlier releases, (Crossbow - which I would show off to my NES friends, Roadrunner, Dark Chambers, Jr. Pac-Man, Secret Quest, and so on). Again, I love the artwork for this, but the quality and style of the game places it in at least the silver label era... at bare minimum, but more probably a red label game. Advantages of red labels is you get to see a bit more of the artwork and they're still easy to print. Many silver labels had fuller faced artwork (like Gremlins) and silver would look great with this game's artwork, but silver is hard to print without significant cost. I understand that many people have more nostalgia for black label games because that's the time period they relate to playing Atari, but this is just my 2 cents. Of course, this is speaking generally and for the North American region (as there were various re-releases to which this doesn't apply). Regardless, I'm really excited for this game.

I think I'm going to consider this a win. Normally, the way my 1st layer prints on that textured glass bed, the lines are barely visible. This time, I had the temperature in the gcode file lower than normal and didn't realize it until it was already printing. I might try another round at a higher temp, but even with this, I can sand it down a bit and mist it with some satin clear. Working much better with it perfectly aligned in Cura... and better bed adhesion. Finished print.

Printing now. So far it’s looking good. I have way better bed adhesion today and high hopes for this round of printing. I’ll post a pic if it turns out.

Thanks for the logo. Unfortunately, there are a couple of things keeping it from playing nice with what I'd like to do. I can explain it pretty easily because it's pretty simple to do as long as it's set up correctly. Pretty much any 3D printer can do it. I know the settings in Cura, but I'm not familiar with other software. - In Tinkercad or whatever you use, you first need to make a solid out of whatever you have for your inlay areas (you've already done this part, except the logo is taller than the depth of the main file... easily corrected for in Cura though). - You must also line them up perfectly in Tinkercad so that they can be lined up perfectly in Cura. - Ideally, the height/depth of your inlay should be about 0.4mm. That gives you 2 layers at 0.2mm layer height and is easy to work with. You can go more, but if too tall you can have trouble like I did. - Open both .stl files in Cura and make sure they are positioned correctly, overlaying each other. - Delete the main .stl so that only the lettering/inlay is left. - Print as you normally would, but leave the lettering/inlay on the bed. - Re-open or undelete the main .stl file in Cura and delete the lettering/inlay model. - Scroll down the Cura settings until you see "Enable Z hop when retracting". Enable that and set the "Z hop height" to a little more than the height of your lettering/inlay print. In this example, we wanted the inlay 0.4mm, so we'd set the Z hop height to 0.5 or so. You may need to enable view of the Z hop height setting in Cura, as it doesn't show up as default. - Print the main .stl file. Profit. Instead of the nozzle moving straight when it goes over an area where it's not extruding, it will lift up (the Z hop height) so it will pass over the previously printed inlay and print around it. Here's where I went wrong with this attempt: I tried to line up the Jaguar logo with the main model in Cura, but wasn't able to get it quite perfect since it hadn't been aligned in Tinkercad or whatever was used to make the file. The logo inlay depth on the slot cover was 5 layers if I printed at 0.2mm layer height totalling 1.0mm deep. So, I vertically shrunk the Jaguar logo to this height to match and set Z hop to 1.1mm to give enough clearance. However, this inlay may have been a bit too tall and the angled edge of the nozzle might have nudged the perimeter of the previous print just enough to break parts free from their adhesion to the bed. I was having trouble getting any adhesion of anything last night, which didn't help matters. It might have gone better if my adhesion was better, but I do think the letters are just a bit too tall and they needed to be lined up perfectly in the design program before trying to line them up in Cura. These 3 things combined spelled failure for me (not perfectly aligned in design program, poor bed adhesion, inlay possibly too tall). This is obviously not going as intended. You can see most of the letters are pushed out of position as it continues to fill in the surrounding area. But, hopefully you can see how it "should" work if set up correctly. I stopped the print, but you can see the general idea below.

I'll definitely be buying the Lynx cartridges. I've been checking Amazon every so often for preorder ever since the Lynx cart was announced a few months ago. But if Songbird will be carrying them as well, I may just buy from there.

Thanks. I was referring to just the "Jaguar" cutout though -- turning that into a solid and having only the logo as an stl file. That way I can print the "Jaguar" logo in red PLA, then use Z-hop when printing the gray, so the red logo will be inlayed with the cover.

Thank you for that. Here's a print I did of it. Can you make a solid out of the "Jaguar" cutout for an additional .stl file? I'd like to do a print with a proper inlay. For this one, I just poured paint into the recesses and sanded off the excess.

I can never seem to remember all the Lynx games that are comlynxable, so I decided to make alternate labels for each of them (with the # of players in the corner like Battlewheels, Battlezone, and Gauntet did), until I gradually make my way through all of my collection. The idea isn't to replace original labels on my main collection, but maybe to replace them on spare copies or something. It will be a long process because the next couple of months are going to be quite chaotic, but eventually, I plan to cover them all. I started out with the ones that had very plain labels, so first on the list were Basketbrawl, European Soccer Challenge, and Casino. I've also done California Games, but did not print out these last two yet. I'd like to know if others are interested in this or find it worthwhile for me to share. I don't want to upload them publicly, because they'll just end up on etsy and ebay. But if people are interested, I could PM the files, or perhaps send them to someone who could do nice vinyl prints or something. Anyway, the speed at which I work on them might be proportionate to the interest, or lack thereof. What are your thoughts? Here's a sample of the labels printed out (but not actually applied).

Hmm, remember Get Lost! by @Propane13? That’s a game that still deserves to be finished and released. Whether electric eels, ill-tempered algae, piranhas, or sharks, this one is looking pretty awesome. Several exciting 7800 games currently in the works. It’s a great time to be a 7800 fan.

Cool. What did you use for a label? Does it look stock or something custom? I'd be interested in seeing a pic.

That survey is tough. I've owned the game since '96 and it's one of my favorites on the Jag. - I wouldn't pay $20 just for an audio CD. That much is certain. - I'm not sure if I'd pay $50 for the game (+ audio CD) again, but I'm more likely to do that than just buy the audio CD for $20. I would like to see it available for others to buy and enjoy because it really is a gem on the Jag and I wasn't aware of how much the ebay price has gone up over the years, so I like the idea of re-releasing the game on disc. - I'd like to have it on cartridge, but only if in-game music weren't totally neglected (so, unlike IS2).

Awesome. This has been on my to-do list as well for just over 20 years! More recently (like in the past 6 or 7 years), I've come pretty close but never gotten around to it. I'd get one of the controllers out and open it up, but then put it back for a later time. The controllers and replacement cables have come with me for the past 3 moves, so maybe after my next move coming up in August I'll finally do it. I'm glad to see you did the hack and that it works good for you. Thank you for sharing!

I don't see my name on there. I said I wanted a copy of this awesome looking game.

I like your dragon. It just needs the obstacles changed to go with a medieval theme. ?

That is a good looking box (even though it says "game instructions" on the front). It just took it from a "might buy" to a "definite buy" for me. I'm a sucker for good looking artwork. Even though the game is great, I was on the fence about a cart until now. Awesome job @vhzc, and thanks @Albert for another (soon) great release! Edit: I just noticed... I do miss the previous title screen with the character and less blocky title (IMO).

Hovercraft. Not a toilet. Hovercraft. ?

It has to be the type with conductive adhesive. So wherever you buy from, just make sure it clearly states that in the description like the one I linked to in my post. That one is more expensive than what I bought. The price may have just gone up since then or it could be a different brand, but it does state clearly on the item that the adhesive is conductive. If I still have the wrapper I'll post the brand, but I probably threw that away. The tape I bought has adhesive on only one side.

I've been meaning to share this fix for quite some time. I was waiting until I did this to another Lynx so I could take quality pictures of the process, but haven't done so yet. The pics I've attached here were taken before & after, but not with the intent of uploading, so the quality is not good. However, the recent thread about a member's pause button not working told me I need to go ahead and share. Any of us who have worked on our Lynxes and had to pull the ribbon cable know how fragile the conductive coating is on them. No matter how gentle you are about disconnecting that ribbon, it WILL wear off the coating. Some of them seem to wear off in only a couple of pulls, while I've been able pull others several times before they have issues. A common recommendation is to trim your cable, but there is NO NEED to do that. Here's what I did to my Lynxes, even to the ones that had only been pulled once. You can seen in the (before) picture on the left how the coating had almost completely worn off. Most buttons did not work in this state. I bought some copper foil conductive adhesive tape from Amazon. I wish I could link to the exact one I purchased, but for some reason many of last year's orders have disappeared from my account. If you search for "copper tape", you'll come up with quite a few results in various sizes. I purchased a 1inch roll similar to this one. You could go with a 1/2inch roll or even 1/4inch. I went with 1inch for other random uses. - First, I cleaned the contact area of the ribbon. - Then I placed a piece of copper tape over the entire end. - Then I used a magnifying glass and an exacto knife to carefully cut lines in the copper tape in between where the contacts should be. (This is the part I wish I had a picture of, but I think it's still pretty self explanatory). - Then I used the blade to carefully peel away the copper tape from in between the contacts. - The final result is what you see in the (after) picture on the right. This has proven to be very durable for me. I've pulled the cables several times after doing this and they still work great. I'd call it a permanent solution, but maybe it's more semi-permanent. The tape could be removed if you ever wanted for some reason, or if the tape somehow got messed up you could always redo it. Never trim again and KEEP your ribbon length.

I'll have to take you up on that if a competition is still going when I finally get to play. At the current schedule, I probably won't get to spend time with it until Sept at the earliest or maybe even Oct. I'm away and won't return until just a couple weeks before I have to move across the country. It's gonna be crazy. I've never disliked the game, I was just never a fan of it. I did enjoy the 2600 homebrew port of it, but like I was saying in my original post -- I think my initial reaction to it was because it was probably the last game I would have expected it to be. I didn't know what to expect, but I thought it would probably be a great arcade game that I wasn't very familiar with. Anyway, I will give it a fair play once I'm home and have time, which will probably be after the move.

It is a tough choice. I'd hate to decide for myself, so I'm glad I have both. You really won't be disappointed with either one. It is a great way to play Lynx games, but I didn't do it often. I was usually too lazy to mess around with the back of the TV to hook up the extra cables. I used it for video capture several times, played on a CRT with the converter a few times, and played via VGA on a plasma TV a few times. But, the picture quality of either screen itself is so good, you probably miss having a larger screen option. I might have done it more if that Lynx was still working (or when I finally fix it), but one of the biggest reasons to have the VGA out is for video capture. Playing on a large screen is nice, but really, you'll love the picture on the smaller Lynx just fine. I'm not trying to sway you in either direction, I just hope the information in the thread helps. In fact, I'd say buy both and get a 2nd Lynx! Then you have the added benefit of Comlynx'ing... which is amazing.

Chuck Norris. But I'll settle for Charles Bronson. Just don't tell Chuck.

That's a pretty cool looking hack. I'm currently in that general area and was just watching some real UFOs outside. I'm not saying they were aliens, but definitely the literal "Unidentified Flying Objects". I don't know of anything that could behave the way I just saw these things do. Probably some weird experiment or tech, but it was pretty interesting. A bunch of us were out there watching. My phone wouldn't zoom in enough to get anything worth capturing, but some of the other guys had better cameras on theirs.