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Found 9 results

  1. The Audio Companion board is designed to be a simple way to add high quality sound to Atari consoles and computers lacking a sound output (predominantly the 2600, 5200, 7800, 400). It can also be used in any system as an audio mixer. For example, a stereo Pokey setup can be mixed to a mono output without affecting the separation of the 2 stereo channels. Two boards can be installed to provide multiple different outputs as well. The most common question is, "What makes this better than the audio modifications currently being done?" There are three main advantages: 1. The AC board installs very simply without cutting or removing anything on the board. The AC board gets its power from being soldered across a power decoupling capacitor and its high impedance inputs don't disturb the existing audio circuits. The board can be removed at any time without the need for any repairs. 2. The AC board uses an op-amp to provide a buffered line-level signal. This gives the output a consistent quality when driving various amplifiers and cables. Picking audio off without a buffer can give inconsistent results. 3. The AC board has 4 additive mixing inputs designed to preserve the system's intended audio functions. This means the AC will play 7800 games with cartridge audio intact. The AC will provide the 400 with audio that includes the cassette audio track. Other sources can be mixed in as well if desired. Installation is simple. Find a power supply decoupling capacitor near the audio circuits or power supply input (these caps will usually be 0.1µF and may be marked '104' to denote this value). Determine which side has 5V with a multimeter and solder the board across the cap observing the polarity markings. Run wires from the AC inputs (A-D) to the appropriate signal points for your system and another wire from the output to your audio jack. Then run a ground wire back to the AC board ground pad or a nearby ground point on the system board. There are 4 inputs on the Audio Companion. Using the correct input is important for proper level matching (input iD is marked on the board for reference). A - Input for Pokey or TIA audio. B - Second input for Pokey or TIA audio. C - 7800 cartridge audio input. D - 400 SIO audio input. There is one audio out pad (marked out) that can drive one or two audio jacks. On the back of the board is a gain pad that can be cut to provide a 3dB output boost if desired. Here are pictures of the board and schematic:
  2. Recommended board: Plug-In (if 4050 soldered in) The 5200 may either have soldered or socketed 4050. This will affect the procedure somewhat so we'll start with instructions for a soldered in 4050: Position the main PCB with the cartridge slot toward the back. Soldered-in 4050: 1. Solder the 16-pin socket on top of the 4050. It is only necessary to solder pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9 and 11. Soldering pin 16 is probably a good idea as well just to secure all corners of the socket. With a reasonably small iron tip, you should be able to work between the 4050 and the Antic chip behind it. 2. Connect a wire to the front pad of R17. This is the rightmost 1K resistor in front of the 4050. This will be the Color In wire. 3. Make sure the jumpers are configured for the 5200 and install the UAV in the socket with the green terminal toward the back. 4. Connect the Color-In wire to terminal 1 (the terminal closest to the right back corner). Make sure the wire is clamped in securely. 5. Attach your video cables to the UAV. The remaining terminals (2-6) are Ground, Chroma, Luma, Composite, and a 2nd Ground. Socketed 4050: I am currently revising this section as the 4050 is necessary to retain the reset hardware and the jumper method isn't reliable enough. Removing the 4050 to plug in the UAV will disable the RF video. If this isn't a problem, then follow these steps: 1. Remove the 4050. 2. Connect a wire to the front pad of R17. This is the rightmost 1K resistor in front of the 4050. This will be the Color In wire. 3. Make sure the jumpers are configured for the 5200 and install the UAV in the socket with the green terminal toward the back. 4. Connect the Color-In wire to terminal 1 (the terminal closest to the right back corner). Make sure the wire is clamped in securely. 5. Solder a jumper across the back pads of R2 and R3 (only do this if the 4050 is removed!) 6. Attach your video cables to the UAV. The remaining terminals (2-6) are Ground, Chroma, Luma, Composite, and a 2nd Ground. If you wish to retain RF video, then you'll need to keep the 4050. However, soldering a socket on top of the 4050 will raise the UAV up too high to replace the shielding which is necessary for decent RF performance. For this reason, it is preferable to get a Kit and build the UAV according to This post and then follow the instructions above (skipping step 5). Installing an Audio Companion board: 1. Locate C37 and solder the Audio Companion board across its leads with ground (G) toward the front. Apply the soldering iron to both the capacitor lead and the large pads at the bottom of the board while applying solder until they flow together. This will provide power and hold the AC in place. 2. Solder a wire from input iA (the first pad at the top from the back) to the back pad of R50 (1K). This resistor is just inside the shield area in front of where the AC is now installed. 3. Connect the audio out wire to the last pad on the Audio Companion marked out. If you're using a coaxial wire, you can connect ground to the back pad of the capacitor in front of C37 (C51) or any other nearby grounded spot like the exposed shield strip. Carefully check your work against the pictures before powering the system. Route cables carefully out of the shielding during reassembly.
  3. Colecovision: AC adaptor X2 Controllers X4 (working condition or not) CIB Games Intellivision: Intellivision 3 shell or replacement metallic stickers Intellivision 3 controllers (working condition or not) replacement Transformer CIB games I have paypal or willing to trade other consoles or parts
  4. If not, what are the specs for it? I have a complete in box Telstar Ranger, sans the AC adapter, which I think may not have come with it. I don't want to buy C-Cells.
  5. Hi I'm YarJr. and I have a Sega Genesis question so what better place to ask than an atari forum? lol (was not going to be my first post here but since I have a legitmiate issue might as well ask. I should be talking about my lovely Atari jr. though) See Ive been ressurecting my old consoles and I lost my power supply and a/v cables for my genesis so I picked some up but the damn power supply is for a genesis 1 and I have a 2 and 3. My question is could I use a Sony 7.5 v supply with an input of 120v ~ 0.37 A and an output of 7.5v -2.0a for a Genesis 2 or 3?
  6. I recently ordered this ac adapter off of ebay for my 2600. I was looking for an oem one, because those are the best to use. Anyways, I got this in the mail and I just haven't ever seen anything like this one before. The two things that I thought were odd was that first: It was was made in China. And second: the box has rounded edges. Do you guys know if this is oem, or have you ever seen any like this. (I don't have a camera so here's the ebay ad. It looks just like the picture on the box, except it has voltage specs etc. on the front too. It's also ended so just scroll down a little.) Thanks in advance! eBay Auction -- Item Number: 390458752431
  7. I got one of these and it doesn't really seem legit. Have you guys ever seen one that looks like this? (I don't have a camera so here's the ebay ad. It looks about the same on the box, except it has voltage specs. etc.) I just question it because of the rounded edges.eBay Auction -- Item Number: 390458752431
  8. Hey, my ac adapter for my 2600 makes a very faint quiet buzzing noise that can be heard from about 4 inches away. Should I replace it?
  9. Hey just a quick question- does the gray ac adapter have the same amps, voltage, and polarity as the black one? I got a heavy sixer and I know they usually use a gray power supply, but the one i got came with a black one. Thanks.
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