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  1. Hi everyone! I am attempting to play an Atari 2600 on a modern-day television. Specifically, on the LG - 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV. Its specs are a little different than your average digital TV, I believe. At least different enough to not be compatible with the recommendations I see for using an upscaler. Because it's not a 60hz TV; it's 120hz. And apparently that causes...interface problems with upscalers most ppl are using. So that's fun, right? LOL.... There is also some question as to HDMI being used, tho I am not entirely clear on the reasons associated with that. This model encompasses both HDMI 2.0 as well as HDMI 2.1 (thank goodness)....which other LG OLED models do not. Apparently HDMI 2.0 is getting "phased out"....but this model, thankfully, still allows its use! Something else of note....is the "Resolution" with this model. It's listed at 2160p (not 1080p)......is that unusual? I expected it to be 1080p. And since that is double what other models I've seen list, how does that impact use of an upscaler, or even use of an Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) in this process of getting the Atari 2600 to play (well) on this model of TV? Here are the full specs of the TV in question, the one that will be used to play the Atari 2600 on. From the BestBuy website: ___________________________________ Specifications Key Specs Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Refresh Rate 120Hz Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant General Product Name 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV Brand LG Model Number OLED77CXPUA Series CX Series Model Year 2020 Color Silver Color Category Silver Dimensions Product Height With Stand 40.3 inches Product Width 67.8 inches Product Depth With Stand 10.6 inches Product Height Without Stand 39.1 inches Product Depth Without Stand 2.2 inches Product Weight With Stand 79.1 pounds Product Weight Without Stand 58.9 pounds Adjustable Stand Width No Box Dimensions Height 44.5 inches Width 74.6 inches Depth 11.2 inches Display Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size 76.7 inches Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Picture Quality Enhancement Technology Cinema HDR Curved Screen No Refresh Rate 120Hz Closed Captioning Yes Language(s) Displayed English, French, Spanish 3D Technology No Features Remote Control Type Magic Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Capable Yes Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Screen Mirroring Yes Screen Mirroring Technology Miracast Indoor Or Outdoor Use Indoor Text-To-Speech Yes Video Description Yes V-Chip No TV Tuner Digital Connectivity Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Number of HDMI 2.1 Inputs 1 Number of HDMI 2.0 Inputs 3 HDMI Audio Return Channel (ARC) Yes Number Of USB Port(s) (Total) 3 Number of USB 2.0 Ports 3 Ethernet Port(s) Yes RF Antenna Input Yes Bluetooth Enabled Yes Bluetooth Version 5.0 Network Compatibility Built-in Wi-Fi, Ethernet Number of RS-232 Inputs 1 Headphone Jack Yes Number of Digital Optical Audio Outputs 1 Number of Component Video Inputs 0 Number of Composite Video Inputs 1 Number of DVI Inputs 0 Compatibility VESA Wall Mount Standard 400mm x 200mm Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant Audio Built-In Speakers Yes Built-in Speaker Type Front firing Surround Sound Supported Dolby Atmos, OLED Surround Speaker Output 40 watts Power ENERGY STAR Certified No EPEAT Qualified No Estimated Annual Operating Cost 38 United States dollars Estimated Annual Electricity Use 313 kilowatt hours Rechargeable Battery (Remote Control) No Number Of Batteries Required (Remote Control) 2 Number of Batteries Included (Remote Control) 2 Included Stand Included Yes Cable(s) Included AC power Warranty Manufacturer's Warranty - Parts 1 Year Manufacturer's Warranty - Labor 1 Year Other UPC 719192637177 ___________________________________ Thoughts on what type of upscaler (if any) or OSSC (if any)......to use to get this done? Really need to play the Atari 2600 on this TV!! Man I hope there is a solution to be found. I'm open to any and all suggestions!!! Please let me know what should be used; the things to get and use, etc....even if they are not OSSC or an upscaler. I just want to know how to play Atari again, on a modern TV; how that gets done though eludes me. Pls forgive the n00bishness. <3 Thanks in advance for any and all help! With appreciation, froggerchamp ---
  2. It'll be hard to go back to playing them on a Sega Game Gear after this.
  3. I'm starting this new thread for my Intellivision Flashback controller adapter cables. Yes, I've decided to start making these again after a long hiatus, since it seems a lot of folks missed out the first time around. As of writing this (September 3, 2021) I'm not quite ready to start, since I need to order more supplies. But things should get underway soon - I'd guess by the end of the month. For now the main purpose of this thread is to have a place to keep track of interest, and to let folks on Atari Age know the adapter cables are once again available. Please post here if you want to order some so I can get a rough idea how many I'll be making going forward. I have numerous old PMs and emails that were sent to the podcast email account the past couple years from people who wanted the adapters. At this point I don't know if those folks are still interested or not. I plan to follow up with as many as I can - and I'm going to try to keep it in the order the requests came in - but it's likely I may miss some people, so a post here would be very helpful. The price of the adapters is a little more than last time, due to supply cost increases (in particular, the parts needed for the Intellivision 1 adapters) and a little something for my time. This is a hobby after all, but I'm trying to keep the prices as reasonable as I can. Making the adapters is a time consuming process, especially the ones for the original console. Intellivision 1 Flashback Controller Adapters (for the original console, INTV, Radio Shack etc. variations with the "hard wired" controllers) These allow you to use Flashback controllers on your original model Intellivision, INTV System III, INTV Super Pro System, RCA Tandyvision, GTE/Sylvania Intellivision; basically any version of the Intellivision console that had the “hard wired” controllers. These are approximately 18 inches in length, with a male DB9-pin plug on one end, and a 9-pin ‘motherboard/SIPP’ connector on the other. To install these, you need to remove 6 screws from the bottom of your Intellivision console, take the top cover off, slide the original controller connectors off the motherboard pins, and slide the adapter cable connectors onto those same motherboard pins (the adapter wires are routed out the same holes as the original controller wires). Put the top back on, and you’re done. It takes about 20 minutes from start to finish. You can then plug in your Flashback controllers with ease. Here's a YouTube video from Grey Defender that shows the process in detail. The cost is $34/pair + shipping. These are only sold in pairs. Intellivision II / Sears Flashback Controller Adapters (for the Intellivision II and Sears consoles with the removable db9 connector controllers) These allow you to use Flashback controllers on your Intellivision II or Sears Super Video Arcade (the consoles that had the easily removable ‘DB9 plug’ connectors on the controllers). These are 6 foot extension/conversion cables, with a male DB9-pin plug on one end, and a female DB9-pin plug on the other. The cost is $17 per cable, or $32/pair + shipping. Please send me a PM here on Atari Age if you are interested in any of these cables. Include your shipping / address information, and preferably an email address, and I will get back to you with a total. Payment is via PayPal or Venmo. Credit cards (processed through my business - White Flag Computing) are also an option if you don't use PayPal or Venmo. You can also email adapters@intellivisionaries.com or flashback@intellivisionaries.com instead of sending a PM if you prefer. I won't be accepting payments until I get the supplies and start making the cables. Shipping is not included in the above prices. USA orders will be shipped via USPS Priority Mail. I can also ship First Class Mail in a padded mailer for a little bit less, but you will have to pay for the mailer. With some exceptions, International orders will be shipped via USPS International First Class (padded mailer - price varies depending on weight and destination). Original / previous thread, for reference: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/237113-intellivision-flashback-controller-adapters-round-2/page/4/?tab=comments#comment-4897648
  4. The test cards fit the Kurz-Kasch TF-650 test fixture and the ROM adapters fit the Kurz-Kasch ROM tester. If you happen to have any, run across any or know someone who may have a few please let me know! The test cards and a ROM adapter are pictured below. Thanks!
  5. Hi, I´ve made a little tiny project which may not has a really amount of usage for standard user, but some tinkerer could found it useful. I call it simply "KEYCON" - a small adapter PCB for Atari XL or Atari XE keyboard connectors. First let´s take a look of the thing: The PCB is 0.8mm thick and fits also in the original keyboard connector found on all XL/XE mainboards (except 1200XL and XEGS). There are several possibilities to attach a new keyboard connector or directly solder some wire connected to the keyboard. The KEYCON PCB can be used in an Atari XL or Atari XE. Of course you must use a XL keyboard when connected to a XL computer (and same for XE) like usual For diagnostic issues (for example using the Super SALT cartridgdes) the most needed keys are seperate located on the KEYCON PCB. So you can use endless loop tests and quick diagnostics with SALT without connecting a keyboard. This saves the mylar cables from breaking and so on. For each system (XL or XE) you will found the keys RESET, OPTION, SELECT, START and BREAK. For already defective mylar keyboard cables, the main problem is always... how to connect ANY type of substitute to the genuine keyboard connector? Without using direct soldering or many glue it´s not a working solution for a long time. Some time in the past I also use ribbon cables and solder the cables directly to the pads on the mainboard, removing the keyboard connector before. Or, another solution is to use some single row pin heades, they can plugged into the genuine keyboard connector also, but must be fixed. KEYCON can be used for a quick test (just plug the whole PCB with the front side into the existing, genuine connector on the XL/XE) or as a continuous replacement for defect keyboard connections. Below this text you will fine some examples of usage. I will only ship, for interested people, the bare PCB. Everybody has different needs and wishes, and all parts (IDC header connector, single row male header and so on) are easy to get in any electronics store. Tipp: sometimes they´re extremly cheap at shops selling accessoires for Arduino & Raspberry Pi solutions. The final version will have ENIG (immersion gold finish) contacts, will be a little smaller than now (actual: 61x69 mm) and will fit better using an Atari 800XL. I have made a little wrong measurement, final version will fit perfectly. Price for one bare PCB will be from 6 up to 9 Euros, depending on the amount of orders. Please show your interest (with quantity you want) here in this thread or by PN. I will collect responses until October, the 4th (2017-10-04) and then sent infos of final price and order details. Shipping for up to 5 pieces worldwide is 5 Euros. And now some pictures... Please read also the comments between the pics KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari 800 XL mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XL" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XL keyboard. With this prototype layout, the PCB can´t be fit into a cased 800 XL. Of course final version will do. This pictures shows ALL pads on the KEYCON PCB used. This is not mandatory of course. For example, if you install KEYCON permanently, the desoldered genuine keyboard connector isn´t useful placed at KEYCON. If you want to use a standard 50 pin ribbon cable as the new keyboard cable, then the IDC male header is needed, otherwise leave these pads empty. It´s on you how you want to use it. Also the tactile momentary switches for the keys named above must not installed, if not really needed. You can break this part of the KEYCON PCB away, if you want. There´s no electronics and special thing on KEYCON. KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari XE mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XE" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XE keyboard. In post o. 2 of this thread I will collect all interests and amounts. Best regards, Jurgen
  6. Hello there, TL;DR any help on Intellivision flashback controller to Intellivision I pinouts? 1) successfully made an Intellivision flashback to Intellivision ii adapter via posts like this: 2) Tried to make it to a similar pinout but with a DuPont connector header via this mapping: https://arcarc.xmission.com/Web Archives/Deathskull (May-2006)/games/tech/intvcont.html 3) no luck, I get a bunch of buttons and some trigger side buttons but no wheel. 4) anyone have guidance? I have duponts on the cable so I am correct the mapping if I am missing something. if anyone has an existing Intellivision I to Intellivision flashback adapter and could take a multimeter to them and tell me the pinout that would be sooo cool of you. tried to buy one but the OP of these hasn’t replied. No worries though figured I’d try my hand at trying to get better with soldering/learning electronics. any help you could provide would be sooooo appreciated, thanks !
  7. Hi! I made an Atari adapter for use on my colecovision. Just wired female adapters to a singular male controller cable. It works just fine on my 2600daptor but, I am hesitant to use it on my colecovision console. I just wired all the same wires to the same wires so my thought was both controllers have a common GND and the dpads matched but I can use an Atari stick rather than the colecovision? is this safe? Did I do something silly/not recommended?
  8. Playing Atari 7800 wirelessly!
  9. Hello, does anybody have an Adapter to connect an Atari Jaguar Joypad with a PC or know where i can buy it? Best regards Patrik
  10. Summary The Aquarius Printer is a 40 column thermal printer that uses a one-way serial connection. It was marketed for the Mattel Aquarius computer and Intellivision's ECS add-on. Its character set is fixed to match the Aquarius computer's character set. Each character is printed as a pattern of 7x10 dots. It has a 3-way switch on the back to control which parts of the Aquarius character set it can print. The switch settings are labelled as Text, Mixed, and Graphics. Contrary to what the Graphics switch setting would typically imply, there is no known way to print arbitrary pixel / bitmap graphics. The printer has a 40 byte buffer for printable characters. When transmitting data, the printer will not print until either the buffer is full, or until a newline or formfeed byte is received. On the front, it has a Power button and a Paper advance button. The Paper advance button does not advance the paper by a fixed amount; instead it advances the paper for as long as the button is pressed. Unlike many printers of its era and later, it does not have a "test mode" that can be entered by pressing and holding a button while simultaneously turning the printer on. While its interface uses standard RS-232 voltages and signaling, its connectors are non-standard, using a 3.5mm mono audio jack and a 2.5mm mono audio jack. An adapter cable is necessary to connect to a computer. Wiring diagrams are available for building adapter cables for connecting to a PC using a 9-pin serial port or to the Intellivision ECS. Software needs to be set to 1200 baud, 8-bit, no parity, 2 stop bits, and use hardware flow control that is either RTS-CTS and/or DTR-DSR hardware flow control depending on the adapter cable's wiring. Internally, it uses the Olivetti PU-1840 print mechanism and thus can use paper from other printers that use the same print mechanism (example: Alphacom Sprinter 40 and VP42). The Olivetti PU-1840 is controlled by a Hitachi HD6801V0P microcontroller. Output Modes Text Mode Only bytes in the ASCII ranges are printable (hexadecimal bytes 20 through 7E) as well as byte 7F. All other bytes do nothing with the following 3 exceptions: 0A, 0D, and 0C. The hexadecimal bytes 0A and 0D are newlines. A pair of these bytes is considered 1 complete newline. Thus 1 complete newline can be any of the following pairs: 0D 0A, 0A 0D, 0A 0A, or 0D 0D. The printer advances the paper one line on the first byte and drops the 2nd byte, as long as the 2nd byte is a 0A or 0D. If other values are inserted between the 2 bytes of a complete newline, the printer will advance the paper 1 newline, print the inserted characters, and then advance the paper a 2nd time (ex: 0D 20 0D). There is an issue where if too many newlines are printed followed immediately by printable data, the printable data is lost. It is presumed that the CTS signal back to the PC is not being processed properly. The hexadecimal byte 0C is formfeed. It advances the paper to next 1 page boundary, with 1 page being approximately 59 lines. Previously printed data is considered part of the page. For example, if 30 lines of printable bytes were sent followed by a 0C, the paper would be advanced 29 lines. There is an issue where if data is transmitted too soon, i.e. before the formfeed has finished, that data may be incorrectly printed in the middle of the formfeed or may be lost. Graphics Mode All characters are printable, based on the Aquarius computer's character set. However, after power up or a short delay between printing sessions, the data needs to be preceded by 0A 0D before the graphics data can be sent. The first 2 bytes of 0A 0D are not printed, but do cause a newline to occur. Any 0A or 0D that appears after the initial 0A 0D pair are printable characters and are not newlines. However, data can NOT be continuously streamed to the printer indefinitely. Somewhere between 880 to 920 bytes, the printer stops responding. It is recommended that long streams of data be separated into smaller chunks with short delays. Mixed Mode The same as Graphics Mode except that 0A and 0D are newlines. These bytes behave the same as they do in Text Mode. Unlike Graphics Mode, there is no need to prepend the printable characters with 0A 0D. There is an issue where, if too many newlines are printed followed immediately by data, the data is lost. It is presumed that the CTS signal back to the PC is not being processed properly or that the printer needs a brief delay after asserting CTS and receiving more bytes. Construction Major components: Hitachi HD6801V0P CPU: Hitachi's version of a Motorola 6801 (enhanced instructions, 4KB ROM and 128 bytes RAM on-chip, serial, GPIO) Olivetti PU-1840 2P Printer mechanism: 280 horizontal dots, thermal paper Hitachi HA17555: a 555 timer chip, presumed to control the baud rate The plastic case has 4 parts: the top shell, bottom shell, paper compartment cover, and the back panel. The back panel contains the serial connectors and the Text/Mixed/Graphics switch. It appears the back panel and the internal space next to it was intended to be replaceable to support other interfaces (Centronics? DE-9 serial? Commodore 64?). The top shell front internally has space for 2 unused punch-outs in the plastic, each with mounting points in an internal metal bracket. Potentially, these could support addition buttons and/or lights. Wiring Adapters / Cables Here are schematics for building either a wiring adapter to connect the Aquarius printer directly to a PC's 9-pin serial port or to the Intellivision ECS. Note that similar schematics elsewhere don't allow a direct connection to a PC since they require additional adapters like null-modem cables. Aquarius Printer Adapter Cables v1.pdf
  11. Hey guys, I'm starting this new thread for the various adapters I make since the old thread was getting a bit long, and the original posting didn't contain the various adapters I now offer. The original thread can be found here. Here is the current lineup of adapters and extension cables I have for sale: Intellivision 1 Flashback Controller Adapters (for the original console, INTV, Radio Shack etc. variations with the "hard wired" controllers): These are $24/pair (only sold in pairs). Approximate length is 18 inches. Intellivision II / Sears Flashback Controller Adapters (for the Intellivision II and Sears consoles with the removable db9 connector controllers): These are $14 each, or two for $26. If desired, you can specify the color of the decorative heat shrink tubing near the cable ends. Black is also an option. If not specified, you will receive whatever color I have in stock at the time. Approximate length is 6 feet. Standard db9 controller extension cables - 6 foot length (for Intellivision II / Sears consoles, Atari 2600 / 7800, Sega Genesis, Atari and Commodore computers; basically anything that uses a standard db9 type connector): These are $7.00 each. Colecovision Y-Adapter cable - allows connection of standard Colecovision system controller and an additional compatible joystick (Atari 2600, etc) without the need to unplug / swap controllers one at a time. Should work fine on other consoles that use db9 connectors - but only tested on a Colecovision): These are $12 each. If desired, you can specify the color of the heat shrink tubing, including black. If not specified, you will receive whatever color I have in stock at the time. Approximate length is 24 inches. ----------------------------------------------- Please send me a PM here on Atari Age if you are interested in any of these cables. Include your shipping / address information, and preferably an email address, and I will get back to you with a total. Payment is via PayPal. Credit cards (processed through my business - White Flag Computing) are also an option if you don't use PayPal. You can also email adapters@intellivisionaries.com instead of sending a PM if you prefer. Shipping is not included in the above prices. USA orders will be shipped via USPS Priority Mail (usually flat rate small box, which is $6.80 - the price went up January 2016, it used to be $5.95). I can also ship USA orders via First Class Mail in a padded mailer for a little bit less. International orders will be shipped via USPS International First Class (padded mailer - price varies depending on weight and destination). Thanks!
  12. I've tested and completed my review of the latest and greatest Atari 5200 controller adapter made by Atariage member, Ikonsgr. It's essentially a bohoki-clone that enables you to use PC 15 pin controllers on the SuperSystem. In the video, I've demonstrated a good number of analog and digital PC controllers (gamepads, keypads, joysticks, steering controllers, and flight yokes) being used to effectively play 5200 games. Some of these controllers have the ability to be used as both analog and digital controllers (Makopad PC gamepad, Radio Shack gamepad, and the Vortex 3D), right-hand/left hand switching digital gamepads (Gravis PC Gamepad and the Reveal Gamepad), and there's even one which has the ability to switch between self-centering and non-self-centering ("dead-fish stick") analog joystick control. Check it out:
  13. Maybe someone at sometime will find this info useful. The Model III and 4 has a single 50 position I/O bus port for expansion. A company called Alpha Products used to sell a cable that allowed you to daisy chain multiple peripherals on that port. Unfortunately those haven't been available since the mid 80s. The port is a 50 position card edge. 50 position ribbon cable and female connectors are easily sourced. Amazon has the best price on the female connectors; less than $20 for 5. Anything with a 50 position card edge is next to impossible to find these days. Also each "finger" on the board needs to connect from top on one side to bottom on the other. The Radio Shack Hi-Res board came with one as a pass through. I recently found a source for dirt cheap prototype trans boards that can be modified in about 1 minute. https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pc622.html Syntax PC-622. These are 62 position and already have the reverse side connected. A cutting wheel on a Dremel will easily make it into a 50 position. You'll also want to bevel the edge a bit with a flat file. My port currently has the Hi-Res board (looped from inside like factory), FreHD (hard drive) and an Orchestra 90 all getting along together. I also have a mouse interface for CAD which I'll try as soon as I get a RS mouse.
  14. Although this is slated for a bigger upcoming project, I figured it would likely be useful in a stand-alone application as well. Since I have a new compact motherboard design that will require an internal mouse interface with the ability to easily switch between joystick ports, and if desired completely disappear (stealth mode), I began work on a new mouse interface chip for the A8. It could have just as easily been used in an Atari ST, or with a bit of code finagling also made to work in an Amiga. Initially I looked at some of the GPL PS/2 mouse-to-ST/Amiga offerings, thinking that I would simply add what code I needed. However once I dived in, I quickly decided this would not be a good way to go, and so began my journey to write mouse code from scratch in my favorite development application FlowCode. Anyway suffice it to say i am probably 85% done, with the last 15% dedicated to supporting mouse movement acceleration (very tricky stuff). So here's a look at how this new mouse chip will be implemented in my new project, along with of course a TK-II keyboard chip (this schematic shows part of the I/O section). Unlike the mouse support that existed on the early versions of TK-II firmware, and then was later abandoned, this one has true ST mouse emulation as its primary goal (plus some enhancements). Yes I know people would love to have a USB mouse instead (as well as a USB keyboard interface), but with all that I have going on I'm afraid this is the best that I can presently do. Especially considering the learning curve required to implement this in USB as well likely needing to switch over to a different processor family to really do it right (yet another learning curve to climb). Besides despite what the rumors would have you believe, there are plenty of NEW PS/2 mice and keyboards still available, as well as some that offer wireless support. And lets face it, PS/2 protocol is a hell of a lot easier to work with. Ohh and did I mention that I get lazy from time to time . Anyway I doubt if I'll be making any PCBs for stand-alone plug-in usage, but if someone is ambitious, I will be providing the PIC MCU Firmware (in JOY2PIC and Microchip file versions). Stay tuned for more info and eventually the firmware release. - Michael
  15. Masterplay alike adapter with support for Sega Genesis (3 or 6 button) and Nintendo (NES or SNES) controllers and provides START and PAUSE keys functionality for convenience. Remaining functions can be accessed by a standard joystick connected on the 16 vias IDC connector on the board. Buttons and keys are mapped as follows: Two printed circuit boards available. Compact board measures 1.6"x1.6" (41x41mm) A second version of the board fits inside a Hammond 1593J case: Work in progress. Project repository available at Github
  16. This adapter was named after The 8 Bit Guy that came with a SNES layout for a game that he is developing (for Commodore PET/64) that have controls very similar to Robotron, where the directional Pad controls the movement while the X Y A B buttons control the shooting direction. Full keyboard control is provided using the SELECT and START buttons as Alt/Modifiers keys The connections to the Atari 5200 should be done by use of two cable extensions. If cable on Port 2 is not connected the X Y A B buttons behave like TOP/BOTTOM buttons. The adapter should also support the NTT data controller. Like the regular SNES controller the X Y A B buttons revert to TOP/BOTTOM when the cable on port 2 is not connected. The circuit shall also provide support for NES controllers, though with limited keypad support. The connection to the SNES controller should be done by cutting an extension cable and soldering the wires to the PCB. The PCB is designed to fit within a Hammond 1593J case. Base code is ready. Next step is prototyping. Murray-BaseCode.zip
  17. I am working on another design of a controller adapter for the 5200. It shall be used together with a 6 button Megadrive/Genesis controller to provide full keypad functionality. Ready: - Schematics; - Preliminary PCB; Work in progress: - Code (90%). Todo: - Testing; - Documentation.
  18. Sega Genesis adapter for Atari 2600/7800 (WIP) Button A : Fire (2600 / 7800 ) Button B : Top/Thrust (2600) / Left button (7800) Button C : Front/Trigger (2600) / Right button (7800)
  19. I've seen USB adapters for connecting Atari 2600 paddle controllers to a PC, but what about connecting USB optical mice to a real Atari to use as paddles? I'm interested in trying a regular wired USB optical mouse or PC wired USB optical trackball for controlling paddle games - not only would it give a different gaming experience than paddles, but optical controllers would also be "jitter proof". I have already made my own spinner controllers for MAME and Stella on the computer very simply, by duct-taping an optical mouse against a shaft (such as a wood dowel, or a wood dowel through a section of foam pool noodle) connected to a knob, and it works beautifully. So I am curious about making an adapter using an Arduino or Raspberry Pi or similar, that you can plug the mouse into, and outputs the variable resistances that would emulate a real paddle controller on the 2600. (The paddle button would be a simple matter of wiring the button to the appropriate pins.) Has anyone tried this, seen a page on this, or got any idea how a microcontroller might output the resistance range (1M ohm) that a native 2600 paddle controller would?
  20. Tested and working. In very good condition. Has native support in emulators like Project64 and OpenEmu, so no need for configuration. No drivers needed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adaptoid-Nintendo-64-controller-to-PC-adapter-Wish-Technologies-Wishtech/323802247670
  21. So its been awhile since Ive posted on here but I got a question only you smart people can answer. Why won't the EZ flash 4 work on the Super Retro Advance Adapter by Retro Bit? See it will get past the first white screen and something working cause a box will pop up and say "can not find disk" yet we can't get it passed that. I have read speculation that it it eats to much current for the SNES but that doesn't make any sense when you consider it does load at least a bit of the flash carts software. I wonder if this isn't something we could fix with a firmware update? If so it really needs to be done cause everybody has been lead to believe the EZ Flash 4 is the best and oddly it is in a normal gba. Hell it even works fine in the gba player for the gamecube so what the @#$% is going on? If we can't figure this out it looks like I bought another piece of hardware I can't use. *facepalm*
  22. There's been a new discovery and I'm here to explain how to get certain Atari 2600 and 7800 controllers to work on your Atari 5200 for a pretty reasonable price. The 2600 and 7800 controllers will only be working on 5200 games that have a single button involved in the gameplay, not two. Also, I need to point out that the games that require analog movement (ie. Breakout, Kaboom, Missile Command) can't be effectively played with the 2600 and 7800 controllers. First, you'll need the PC gameport to 5200 controller adapter (the one I have is made by fellow Atariage resident 5200 expert, bohoki, and it's a good design at a quite reasonable price). If you own one of these, you will want to get a PC joystick and/or gamepad with two buttons to go along with it (to play games which require two buttons like Defender). The schematics are available online if you choose to make one on your own. Secondly you need to buy an Atari 2600 to PC gameport controller adapter (schematic is available if you pm me). This adapter is currently made available on Ebay by ikonsgr74. Here is the current Ebay listing: http://m.ebay.com/itm/AMIGA-ATARI-AMSTRAD-COMMODORE-DB-9-PIN-JOYSTICK-ADAPTER-DB15-PIN-PC-GAME-PORT-/111807334682?nav=SEARCH The two adapters can be connected together allowing for a 2600 or 7800 controller to be put into use for games which have compatibility with digital controllers. This is going to essentially give you something kinda like a Masterplay Interface adapter, but with a couple downsides. 1) The original Atari-made 2600 joysticks, paddles, and trackballs that I've tried are incompatible. The heavy sixer CX-10 could work, though. I don't own one of those. Wico bat handle sticks are incompatible. I have 4 or 5 Atari-made/Wico-made joysticks and a single trakball and not one worked properly. 2) Even though you'd think it'd work with Genesis controllers, it's not compatible. I've been looking for a workaround but have come to the conclusion that the design of the 2600 to PC Gameport adapter is preventative for getting the power to the Genesis controller circuit that requires +5 volts (and that includes attempts to use an Edladdin Genesis to 7800 conversion cable). If you want to hear any details of my attempt to wire in an external power supply, pm me. 3) If you have a Pointmaster, Spectravideo 2 button, Quickshot 2 Deluxe, or Colecovision controller you were hoping to use, you'll be disappointed. The upsides are: 1) One controller that works and works well is the Slik Stick which is a favorite of mine. 2) it not only works with an Atari-made 7800 Proline controller, but a couple of my NES-to-7800 conversion controllers (converted NES Epyx 500xj and a converted rectangular NES controller). I figure it'll also work with the rectangular Atari-made European pad, too, but I don't have one to test out. You get single button compatibility out of all of them. 3) Sega Master System gamepads and Control Sticks work and work well for single button games. (But not the Sega Sportspad) 4) Wired controllers made for the Atari Flashback 2 system work and work well. 5) Sears Video Arcade II joysticks (not the paddle part), Gemsticks, Mindscape Power Player trigger-joysticks, Epyx 500xj, and Coleco Gemini joysticks (not the paddle part) all work great. Well, there you go. It's not exactly a Redemption adapter, but for less than $30 you can enjoy many 5200 games with a reasonably good number of controllers. I never got an opportunity to use a Masterplay Interface (or a Redemption adapter for that matter), but now I'm seeing the true value of what many have come to appreciate before me... and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg! If you're concerned about whether it's safe for your game system, I will say that nothing bad has happened to my 4 port system over the past couple months of hot swapping various controllers into the connected adapters with the 5200 on. If you haven't tried 2600/7800 compatible controllers on your 5200, you now have a great opportunity.
  23. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
  24. There's now a way to make 80s and 90s PC joysticks, steering wheels, and gamepads compatible with the Atari 7800 one and two button games. For the one button games all you need is this adapter: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 For the two button games three adapters are required: Adapter #1: Edladdin Seagull 78 Adapter #2: Sega Master System Rapid Fire Adapter Adapter #3: 15 pin PC controller to Atari/Amiga adapter made by Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 Also included in the presentation is a unique way to play Robotron 2084 with combined gamepads. Enjoy enhancing your 7800 games.
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