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Blogs

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  • Testing
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  • Gernots A500 game reviews
  • NeonPeon's (Mark W's) Adventures in programming for Vectrex
  • wookie's Blog
  • Syntax Terror Games
  • Byte's Blog
  • Stories from the -: ITC :-
  • Justclaws' Blog
  • NCN's Blog
  • The Atari Strikes Back
  • Gameboy & dress up games
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  • A Wandering Shadow's Travels
  • no code, only games now
  • BRP's random dev journaling
  • SID CROWE TESTING THE blog softwareeee
  • Arjak's Blog
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  • Musings of the White Lion
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  • The Usotsuki Crunch
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  • Zero One
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  • Chronogamer
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  • Atari Randomness
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  • Robert Hurst
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  • Robert M's Blog
  • This Is Reality Control
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  • Animan's Blog Of Unusual Objectionalities
  • Dexter's Laboratory Blog
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  • Devbinks' Blog
  • ATASCI's Blog
  • Zach's Projects
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  • ATASCI's Blog
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  • The 7800 blog
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  • The Occasional Coder
  • 4Ks' Blog
  • Joystick Lunatic Software on AtariAge
  • carmel_andrews' Blog
  • mourifay's Blog
  • Zander's Blog
  • iratanam's Blog
  • Zsuttle's gaming adventures
  • The randomness that is Mr. 8-bit/16-bit.
  • junkmail's RDE&P Blog
  • Doctor Clu's Space Shows
  • bluetriforce's Blog
  • Lynxman's FlashCard Blog
  • TWO PRINTERS ONE ADAM
  • ubikuberalles' Blog
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  • Atari Jaguar Game Mascots
  • Worm Development Blog
  • The Wreckening
  • Learning fbForth 2.0
  • Eight Bit's Blog
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  • The Atari Jaguar Game by Game Podcast
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  • Atarian Video Game Reviews
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  • The World is Flat?
  • Robert @ AtariAge
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  • That's what she said.
  • My blog of stuff and things
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  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
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  • Random Acts of Randomness
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  • lexmar482's Blog
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  • Being Of The Importance Of Shallow Musing.
  • Justin Payne's Blog
  • Atari 2600JS
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  • ebot
  • Doctor Clu's Dissertations
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  • Sayton's Blog
  • GEOMETRY WARS ATARI 2600
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  • For whom it may concern
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  • Bri's House
  • Atarimuseum.nl
  • Wiesbaden Gaming Lab
  • Les Frères Baudrand's Blog
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  • SpiceWare's Blog
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  • TurkVanGogH GameZ's Blog
  • The Upward Spiral
  • raskar42
  • bow830's Blog
  • Web-Frickin'-Log
  • The P3 Studio
  • Arcade Attack - Retro Gaming Blog
  • Starosti 8bitového grafika
  • Bydo's Blog
  • MrRetroGamer's Blog
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  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
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  1. Hi all, TL;DR; I have re-capped Game Gear did not boots into games and now has a glitched license screen at start and I would really like to know what is the problem. A few day ago I bought a faulty Game Gear hoping that I could fix it. There was battery leak in the left battery holder and the previous person did a terrible re-cap attempt (cold solder joints everywhere, some of the capacitors already fell off). It was a VA1 (Europe). Both pads of C55 were missing but everything else seemed to be in good shape on the motherboard. I connected the negative leg of C55 into R45 and the positive leg to the farthest leg of Q9. I also made a jumper wire from Q8 to the positive leg of C55. The rest of the re-cap was straightforward. Once I turned on the Game Gear with a game, it come up with a white screen and the contrast wheel was also working. I thought that my job (with the motherboard) was done but when I put in a game, it never passed the license screen ("Produced by or under license from Sega Enterprises LTD.") even after I cleaned the game with isopropyl alcohol and re-inserted it a bunch of times. (I have tested multiple games.) I have never seen this issue before. I have checked the board for corrosion thinking that the battery leak might has caused some problem but the only thing I found was something that looked like flux residue between the legs of IC3. (MB8464A-10L) I have cleaned it and resoldered each leg anyway. I have also checked for broken traces in this area but found none. My next idea was that there might be a cold solder joint for one of the legs of the cartridge connector. I have checked each leg and found nothing on the visual inspection. I have reflowed each leg just to be sure and this is where things went from bad to worse. The license screen was still showing up as before but now it is glitched. I have reflowed each leg again but nothing changed. Another wierd thing I noticed is sometimes when I turn the Game Gear on without any game in it, the license screen still appears but is much smaller. Like when you are playing Master System games though a Master Gear Converter on your Game Gear. I was a little desparate at this point and used sandpaper to "clean" the cartridge connector but it did not help. I also looked for bent pins inside the cartridge connector but as far I can see, all of them are alright. (I only have a cheap chinese USB microscope and looking into the cartridge connector is not an easy task so I would not bet my live on it) My final idea was that I might have screwed up the cartridge connector somehow (I feel stupid) so maybe I could just replace it with another one from one of the dead Game Gears I have. I only have VA0 (Europe) Game Gears for spares but the cartridge connector looked like it might fit however once I desoldered all of the legs I have realized that it is also fixed with rivets to the motherboard so removing it is not that easy. I kind of clueless about what I should do next. I really appreciate any help you can provide. UPDATE: This is exactly the same issue I was having before screwing with the cartridge connector: The Game Gear now shows a glitched license screen (or TMSS screen if you will) and starts in Master System mode even without any game inserted which is weird. I don't own a working Game Gear with TMSS but I am assuming that it should come up with a white screen when turned on without a game. I am wondering what could make it think that there is a game inserted that requires Master System mode. I have also checked all traces under IC3 in case what I have found was not flux residue but corrosion but none of them is broken.
  2. That's all it is. Just a look at my collection!
  3. Any help on this... Recapped my GG (retrosix SMD cap kit), all working now except; Screen is pretty much washed out (contrast adj. works fine) Not all games work (sonic pretty much always works but others either boot to a green screen or nothing at all) Have reflowed the card connector, and screen ribbon. Interestingly once I recapped the sound and power boards, the screen was in colour, but after trying a few games it went back to really washed out. Are there things I should know about the LCD? Places to push or check etc.. Power board outputs correct voltages, both on power and on batteries. I will have a modern upgrade on the power board coming in a few days just in case the regulator/transistors are faulty. Carts have been taken apart and cleaned thoroughly, same deal. This was done because the games are intermittent (the ones that work) which led me to believe connection issue with the games. So everybody, what is next to try? I have a multimeter etc. so can take readings, measure cap values etc. Thank you so much in advance.
  4. Morning all, I pulled my old childhood GameGear from my crawl space a year ago and decided to do the cap replacement since it wasn't working properly. Well, here we are, after doing the main board and the soundboard - still no luck. NOTE: I have not done the power board yet - those caps are on the way. The first time I put batteries in it and powered it on, I saw random small colored rectangles on the screen for about 2 seconds, then it faded to white. Now all I get is a white screen with no sound. I am testing this with multiple games. Turning the volume knob is only met with crackling sounds from the speaker and the brightness knob works, but does not change the screen from anything other than white. I have double and triple checked my caps and their polarity. All solder joints are strong. All polarity is good. A user on another forum mentioned the bubbly ends on my backlight tube... but like I said, the brightness knob works, so I think my tube is fine. I have looked (with amateur's eyes) at the other components on the board and everything looks okay. Could this be because I have yet to do the power board caps? All my caps looked fine with no leakage, but I'm sure that doesn't mean they are still working fine. I am hoping that the power board is the culprit. But in the meantime, anything I should be looking at? [Ignore the red cap in this picture. I know it's bent over the grounding area, but I fixed this before I powered it on as you can't close the case with it like that anyway.]
  5. I just did the cap replacement on my sound board and main board. I double and triple checked all polarities and caps. I have NOT done the power board yet. Still waiting on the caps. I decided to test it with a few games. I am still getting white screen and no sound. Could this be because the power board is bad? I really hope so... I was so looking forward to resurrecting this childhood system.
  6. I'm in need of a working recapped Game Gear board revision VA0 or VA1 for a mod I have on order. This is what I have for trade. Gameboy Color with IPS screen mod (brightness control is attached to the IR port, I'll throw in my small loose cart collection as well) Everdrive N8 Famicom (with blank 4GB micro SD card) Everdrive N8 NES Mega Everdrive X5 Mega Everdrive V1 deluxe edition (with blank 8GB SD card) I'm in North Carolina 27707
  7. Hi Guys, New here but long time stalker! I have recently been recapping and modding a couple of game gears with the genuine McWill LCD kit from retrosix.co.uk. Really happy with the results but one thing I cant work out is if it is possible somehow to control the backlight brightness level using the original wheel or some other method? I have seen it in action on a YouTube video I stumbled across using the original wheel and I would really like to implement it if possible because I find the default brightness to be a bit hard on the eyes (especially if laying in bed at night) and because it is on max brightness all the time I find it still runs the batteries down fairly fast. From what I can tell it would appear that maybe some clone units now have the ability to have adjustable brightness but not the genuine real McCoy McWill ? Does this sound correct? Does anyone know of a a clever way to add this in potentially? Pics of my install below. I currently have 5v connected to pin 1 of the brightness pot and ground to pin 3 as per the instructions on console5 but do not have the backlight or cysnc points connected as per the instructions as I am not using the VGA output. I assume the 5v and Ground to the pot are still necessary though? Currently the brightness wheel doesn't have any effect at all.
  8. I found a variant of the Sega Game Gear front shell that I've never seen before. There are factory molded "holes" or notches on the left side of the d-pad. At first I thought these were cracks or other wear, but after seeing a few other GGs that had the same thing and opening it up, it's clearly intentional. Out of about 100 GGs I've gone through, I've encountered about 8 of these. The d-pad is not different from any other GG and I have no idea why they would do this. Does anyone have one of these and does anyone have any idea why they would do this? It doesn't appear to affect the usage of the d-pad in any way (good or bad).. -gamegrid2084
  9. The jailbreak for SD card loading is supported with the cart adapters after all.
  10. The long-awaited cartridge converters for Game Gear and SMS cards on Analogue Mega Sg are here!
  11. I've got a couple of the hard to find and highly sought after Sega Genesis Model 2 consoles and Sega Game Gear systems which both were made by Majesco under license from Sega. I'm guessing if you're reading this you're already "in the know," but the Genesis Model 2 made by Majesco (MK-1451) towards the end of the Genesis' life is the "holy grail" of Model 2 systems, as it has the best video and audio encoders of any of the Model 2s. It has the fourth revision of the Model 2 motherboard, known as VA4. I can do console-only or complete in box on these. Meanwhile, the Game Gear made by Majesco is sought after because it has better quality capacitors than earlier Game Gears, a better LCD screen and also is newer overall, since they were made in 2000. Of note, this model Game Gear is incompatible with the TV Tuner (worthless now anyway) and requires a specific brand of Master System adapter if you're into that, called the Nuby Converter. Everything I sell is cleaned and tested and working. You're always able to purchase with confidence when dealing with me. Look no further than my AA feedback, which will show you I've been selling on AA for more than two years and have been an AA member for more than three years. If there's interest here, I would be happy to provide pictures and discuss pricing via PM. Otherwise, I will likely look to eBay in the coming weeks to unload these. Thanks!
  12. From the album: My Collection

  13. From the album: My Collection

  14. DoctorSpuds

    Sonic Chaos (Sega)

    From the album: My Collection

  15. DoctorSpuds

    Sonic 2 (Sega)

    From the album: My Collection

  16. This conversion was made for me by Mr. Wizard. Watch gameplay footage tonight at 8 PM ET!
  17. I can't remember for the life of me how to do it. I know for the NES and other systems it's like down on the D pad plus start. I'm thinking that: -It does it automatically for games that support the save feature (this I know to be the case). -It may be a button combo that I don't remember and can't find -OR the GG everdrive doesn't support save states like the Mega Everdrive does and my memory is playing tricks on me.. it only supports the battery save games. Thanks, and sorry for the stupid question. It's amazing what you can't find a definitive answer to easily online these days!!
  18. Looking for someone to repair my Game Gear's screen (screen works but only a solid blue is displayed, sound works) or nay info on Game Gear repair services.
  19. Found all of this through Facebook a few days ago, all for $35 (the Wii wasn't mentioned in the ad, but it was in the bag). The PS2 (model number 79001) didn't have any cables, so I tested it with my own. Disk didn't spin at first, but that was because a piece of plastic broke off the lid, so it wasn't hitting the trigger. Fixed that and it works great. Haven't tried the Wii yet, but inside is an official 2 gb SD card. I'm going to clean them both up and remove the stickers. I'm probably going to sell them cheap, since they are duplicates. It's nice to find some Atari 2600 games, even common ones like these. I've always wanted Lost Luggage, heard it was fun!
  20. First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
  21. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1uWzUjvV5hsC7NAdC9aj5SGtMy9cpffCUo-EykDRr0nY Long ago I decided to cut some parts of the collection that I never use. I would rather trade this stuff for something cool, but I can also spend money on cool stuff so if you don't want to trade, or have nothing to trade I have no problem taking your money . As far as what I want in trade, I can't give you a full list. Hopefully you also have a list of things you could trade so we can work something out. I can say I would like a few Nintendo Power mags from the NES or SNES era just to have a few in the collection as examples. The same could be same for any magazine with Mortal Kombat 1 - Ultimate 3 or Street Fighter 2 related cover or articles. Other Mortal Kombat or Street Fighter swag would be on interest as well. I would like to get into the C64 and as of yet have nothing for it, so there could be a lot of room to trade there. I'm not only interested in hardware, but books of the C64. I know there were a lot of programming books and such BITD, I would like to have some of that around here too. I could always use more universal game cases. All disk games are likely to have some light scratches or marks on the game side. Every game has been tested in the last 2 weeks and all listed games work as they should. Most things are priced, somethings are not (mostly) because I have a hard time pricing foreign games. There will be more stuff coming to this list in the near future.
  22. Hi everyone, I go through a lot of Game Gears and feel that I'm very familiar with them. Recently I acquired a couple, one blue and one grey, which showed "Made in China" on the back label. I found it strange as up until then I was used to seeing Japan, Taiwan, and Malaysia as the country of origin. I opened them up and found they had Japanese VA1 (837-9024) motherboards. The grey one has a different texture on the shell (slightly rougher) but the color is generally the same. The blue one has the same texture difference but is a darker blue than the others I have on hand (Japanese manufacture if I recall). It's bordering on more of a navy blue. Interestingly the screws for the motherboard and shell have a courser thread compared to my other examples. I wasn't aware Game Gears were manufactured in China up until now. I've also never seen another dark blue one in my travels. Everything seems legit and after a full cap replacement they look and work just like any of the others I've refurbished. What's the story on these? I will try to get some pictures up once I get home and get a little time.
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