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Found 24 results

  1. HI! I have been playing my INTV a lot and really enjoying it. Mostly my INTV two lately because I got the excellent flashback controller adapters that were made for it. I actually think both systems put out a pretty solid RF picture, my main problem is interference. It takes 5 minutes each time I play to properly adjust the various cords so that the picture isn't getting interference. I'd like to alleviate this problem by AV modding my INTV one, and two INTV II's.. My question is, where can I get the kits? I checked Console 5 and they don't have them..anyone have any other ideas for places to look? Thanks.
  2. Yesterday I started to do my first AV mods and I like it. I modded both my Juniors, NTSC and PAL and it feels good that I was able to remove that metalic RF shield and some components so Atari is now even lighter. I wonder which other components can I safely remove to keep the system fully functional. In this guide https://www.thefuturewas8bit.com/2600jr_comp_mod I read that I should also remove L6 component from NTSC system, so I removed it. The guide for PAL does not say that I should remove it. Why? Is that PAL system so different from NTSC? On some pictures it seems that complete RF modulator is removed. This is my pictures of modded systems, NTSC and PAL.
  3. Hi, I'm new to Atari 2600 gaming but have to say I love it. I managed to get hold of a rainbow 2600jr a year ago and AV modded it successfully and it's fantastic fun. A few weeks ago a friend gave me an all black 2600jr that he didn't want and I thought it looked awesome so I thought I'd add it to the collection and mod this one. I found out that this one is pretty rare and that made me want it even more. However, I've run in to a snag. I've modded this one exactly as I did the other one and everything is perfect apart from the sound. There is none!! There's a tiny bit of statistic but nothing else. I've re-flowed every solder joint on the board and nothing still. The board itself is in really good condition and I can't see any corrosion at all or leaked capacitor's. This is a revision 2 board and I'm desperate to get this working. I want this to take pride of place in my collection. Please can anyone help, I'm at a bit of a loss. I'll send as many pics as possible. Thanks in advance. Also, I have heard that sometimes the bottom right capacitors (if they are capacitors) might need changing but I can't find there value. Is this correct??
  4. Hello fellow at Atarians. I tried my hand at installing the AV mod on my original Atari 2600 jr. After wiring everything up I observe that the video does not work. Has anyone here successfully done this mod? Perhaps I could get some hand-holding in the form of a zoom or teams or Google meet session. Attached is is a photo of the actual mod kit board I used. I expect it is just crappy soldering on my part. But before I go and undo everything, I would like to have some reassurance that there isn't something else I've done wrong. These are the specific Instructions I followed. https://vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-jr/ A little help?
  5. I was thinking of Modding my 2600 JR to output AV video. I did a mod to my JR around a year ago, and i ended up killing my board when i tried changing the jacks on it, and i can't find the original posting for the mod i Did. I saw this AV mod for the JR, and i was wondering how well it worked. https://atariage.com/howto/composite.html I think i remember some people saying the video quality wasn't the best, but I am just looking for something that is reasonably good enough to use. If the link does not work just try googling "atariage 2600 jr av"
  6. My intelvison 2 isn't outputting 12v when the rf modulator is connected. If I remove it the connection reads exactly 12v but as soon as its connected it drops to 11-6ish volts. Also was not getting any video from the rf out, and my composite mod is having problems keeping a stable signal. Wondering if the low voltage is the source of the problem. Also one of the ic's gets really hot and I'm not sure if that's related to the voltage or if that's normal. There is actually some yellowing inside the case in the area that its located.
  7. I've been trying to mod my intellivion 2 to output composite video. I almost have the thing working, but the video signal is still having problems. text characters will start to shake after about 3 seconds of running, and there is a white line going down the screen lined up with the characters. I tried putting a 2000uf cap across the 5v line, but that didn't do anything. Ive checked the mod board multiple time times, but haven't found any problems with it that fixed the signal. also the rf modulator never output any video signal so i don't have any way to see if its a problem with the console. also don't have any extra rf modulators or consoles to test with.
  8. I noticed that when my mod board is connected the 12v connection for the rf modulator drops to like 4v. also noticed that when its disconnected it's still only like 11.4v. And one of the chips on the board gets very hot. I'm wondering if this is why after a few seconds of use the picture becomes less stable (text characters basically shake) Also i took the cage off the rf modulator to make room so not sure if that has anything to do with my problem. been trying to get this thing to work for so long its kind of annoying.
  9. So I had problems with my 2600 so I decided to try my hand at the AV Mod. I did all the work, it doesn't look great but I hoped it would work, but it didn't. Is anyone able to see what I did wrong and if I can fix it? https://imgur.com/a/xY43JRJ
  10. so about a year ago i did a 2600 Jr av mod i found somewhere where you added 3 resistors to some pins on a chip and got composite video out... only problem is i tried adding a set of jacks instead of having a cable hang out... but now the video signal is gone. i spent like 3 hours trying to fix it, but all i get is scrolling white. i can sorta see some of the sprites, but i can't figure out what was going on, and ended up removing the added parts... but now the capacitor for sound lost a leg... so i need a new one of those also. anyone know of the mod i'm talking about, like i said i cant find it again, or at least another one that worked for you? also it does the same thing when RF is connected back.
  11. I started seeing information on the web about modifying the Jaguar with AV outputs. Why would anyone do that if the Jaguar already outputs composite video? I plan on getting an AV cable and plugging into the back. Isn't that preferred over hacking the console?
  12. Hello Everybody. I made an av modification on the Magnavox Odyssey 1. This is the final result : I made a bigger video with more Explanations (schematics and more informations in the video description), before. But i made a small mystake, the net was too thin (just a question of tuning, i solved that after...). It's not destructive and reversible. Hope you will enjoy.
  13. I used a couple of the cheap AV mods a while back on my 2600 Vader and my 7800. The mod worked out great on the 7800. The picture is very clear and there is no color bleeding. On my Vader (4-switch, revision 12 board), the picture is, well, terrible. There is quite a bit of color bleeding and it makes most of the text or scores, unreadable and some games are so much of a mess that they hurt my eyes. I recently bought a 2600 Jr. that I intended to use the RF on, since the picture is fine. The issue is, I'm running into a lot of compatibility issues with different TVs. I bought the Jr. because I wanted an Atari that was easier to transport to friends homes and such, but a lot of new TVs just won't work with the RF signal and carrying a VCR around is worse than just carrying my 7800. Now here's what I'm wondering.. Isn't the Jr similar to the 7800, as far as how the video output is handled? If so, shouldn't the cheap mod work just as well on it as id does on my 7800? I know that the 7800 uses a 4050 chip and I'm guessing that has something to do with the cheap AV mod working and the Jr. has the same chip, right? I also know that the Vader doesn't have this chip and the cheap mod doesn't work as well. So..... (I hope I'm making sense and not just rambling. ) If I'm right, I'm thinking about pulling the mod board from the 4-switcher and using it in the Jr. Then buying a mod kit that is better suited for the 4-switcher. If my thinking is correct and the cheap mod will work fine on the Jr, What mod should I install in the Vader/4-switcher? I have heard nothing but good reviews on the UAV mod and it's the only one that people have been talking about lately. I also read a post from a few years ago about a mod that uses the 4050 chip, but the circuit was really complicated to build and I'm not the best at soldering.. So, what's the recommendation?
  14. So, trying to have a long story short. Long time ago bought a Flashback 2 with some games off eBay. The listing said "did not work", yeah the FB2 worked, guessing the person got confused on how the games connected to them. Well I always had this idea of doing the FB2 cart mod inside of an actual Atari 2600. You know, wire it all up so the toggles for the actual legit 2600 interact instead with the FB2 board and get to play the few games I have that way. Eventually, recently, I found a cheap listing on the eBay for an Atari. Sweet. Listed as "broken or parts" but hey, that works for me, I only wanted the case and the switches. Plus, come to find out it was a Vader model which is what I wanted (sorry, not a fan of wood grain). Start looking into it, all my games would work on the FB (except maybe one, Sky Skipper, it wasn't listed as working or not) but I kept looking here which led me to the AV mod. I figured, hey that looks simple enough. Remove a few things, add a couple things, bam composite Atari and if it doesn't work, hell I could just go and do the FB2-2600 mod I'd imagined. So.... almost done, bear with me... I go get some direction on what to take out, and start doing it. Desolder all the parts I need, nice. I don't have the transistors or anything to finish the mod, but was fun doing what I could. Put it all back together and I notice after screwing it up that the board wiggles when I move the switches. Didn't do that before. Open it up, toss the top part of the shielding back into place (the directions I had said you could pitch them), put it back together, move toggles, not as much wiggling. Unscrew, place the bottom shield back into place, put back together, no more wiggling at all. So I guess the question I have here is... a) do I need the shielding after all? I mean I'm not against dremeling out the majority of it so it has the 'bumper' to hold it in place, just curious. Revision 16 board. Is there something else I could do to hold the motherboard in place in the console without the shielding there? Or is this just something we accept and live with? Also, b) my FB-n-2600 idea, where I'm using the 2600 cart slot and all the toggles, switches, controller ports to control the FB board, how crazy is the idea? I could imagine a mess of wires but beyond that. Space wise it looks like it'll fit, and it was not only my original idea, but currently my back up idea if in case the unit actually is broken like the eBay listing said it was. And no, they didn't say what was wrong with it.
  15. Hi, I've been on the forums for awhile(mostly reading) -the posts are very informative and friendly. After doing my own av mods and considering selling the units or doing installs for others, I wanted to get a feel for what people consider my quality of work. Also to make the installs as clean as possible - I think RCA jacks sticking out the back look terrible and even worse - the sides. One is a 2600jr with the ElectronicSentimentalities s video mod( av cable connects to a trs jack in the old RF port - I wanted to use a trs jack and then saw the game-tech install video using the RF port) and 2600 vader with 2600RGB mod(with composite -trs jack, component - trs jack, s video and RGB via framemeister cable). I don't like hot glue and it's almost never needed - I used epoxy for the ports. And once the case is closed - nothing should be moving if the wiring was routed right. Yes, I did use cat5 wire for the installs, but solid core is better for something thats not moving and its what I got with the kit from ES. I know the ports on the vader are a little tilted, but was also my first time using epoxy. Here are some pics, feel from to ask questions or give CONSTRUCTIVE criticism. - Thanks
  16. So I made a bunch of RGB, S-Video, and AV mod kits for various systems. They are all licensed under CC-BY-NC-SA 3.0 I do not know anything about who has the intellectual property rights to the circuits themselves, I only designed the boards. [i will eventually go back and either link sources or come up with my own circuits to negate potential claims] on a related note I need an O-scope If someone has a claim and does not want these listed/sold etc, PM me or something. I only sell the ones that I have rights to. (To clarify the THS7314 RGB mod kits I sell are pretty much exactly what is in the specs in the PDF for the thing itself. I have rights only over the physical board design) Specifically for personal use and or installing inside of other peoples systems I don't care at all if you print these and install them as part of a 'mod service'. https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394
  17. Hello Folks I have a external av mod that i plug into the expansion port of my turbo but i have noticed when playing through the AV the sound is very low and i have to turn up my tv just to hear the game. Talking to fellow owners of such mods and even internal mods they say the sound is very low. Has anyone figured out how to Amplify the sound on these mods to make the stereo louder? I havent actually owned a true Turbo Booster but im sure it probably gives better sound quality than this. Any Input would be great.
  18. im having problems with getting a composite signal out of my intellivision i have this pal model so far i have tried both of the following methods with the rf module on and off with no luck i have seen another mod but this must be for a different motherboard and im at a loss of what to do now has any one got any more info on this subject
  19. Hi y'all, and Happy New Year! I recently picked up a heavy 6-switcher on eBay, which had an AV mod fitted (by "Atarimania9", a UK seller from London). I am finding that all the carts which came with the console, are fine - but any new ones I buy (and I've purchased carts from about 8 different UK sellers) are ALL playing in black and white only?? So, could the problem be that I have an NTSC console (and supplied carts), but playing UK (PAL) carts is the issue? Cheers all, and best wishes,. Matt.
  20. I read this thread about AV mods: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/181120-current-video-mods-2600/?hl=%2Bvintagegamingandmore&do=findComment&comment=2268151 and I am considering doing this AV mod: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/products-page-2/modsservicekits/atari-26007800-mod-kit/ a) Is this the best AV mod to get? ("best" as in "clearest picture with best color accuracy") b) Does this mod suffer the same problems on LCD TVs as was mentioned in the above thread? c) Is this mod easy enough for novice soldering skills? d) Is there a chance that, even if I install the mod perfectly, that it just won't work? (I've read the horror stories)
  21. I have to give a shout out to this gentleman: http://electronicsentimentalities.com/InstallationServices.html He did a killer job on my 7800. The TIA 9 switch is well worth the hassle of switching off for 2600 games as it clears up the picture for the 7800 games a lot, no interference! My 7800 picture is the best I have ever seen out of an Atari System and I would say looks better than my NES right now, the standard toaster model through AV hookups. Thanks again, Joe! Great job!! -Rick
  22. For Sale Atari 2600 Four Switch Woody We built this Atari for our personal use; however, have decided to offer it for sale here. It has been AV modded with Batari's board Blue LED power light added (so we wouldn't forget to shut the thing off!) Pause button added It has also been thoroughly cleaned and tested; any worn and/or damaged components have been replaced. There are no chips, cracks, gouges or major scratches on the body. The pause button: The new AV jacks: We are asking $105, which includes free shipping to the lower 48 US This is for the console only nothing else is included PM if interested!!
  23. Check out our Auction: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 150974304146 Thanks!
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