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  • Zach's Projects
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  • The 7800 blog
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  • Zsuttle's gaming adventures
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  • Atari Jaguar Game Mascots
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  • My blog of stuff and things
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  • Doctor Clu's Dissertations
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  • Bri's House
  • Atarimuseum.nl
  • Wiesbaden Gaming Lab
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  • TurkVanGogH GameZ's Blog
  • The Upward Spiral
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  • Web-Frickin'-Log
  • The P3 Studio
  • Arcade Attack - Retro Gaming Blog
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  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
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Found 25 results

  1. So im a huge fan of bootleg/obscure hardware, and two of my favorites pieces of my collection are these old 1993 Megadrive clones i bought. The first one is a Nasa New 16 bit, the clone lacks a lot of features like the headphone jack and the MegaCD port, and is incompatible with the 32x and some multitaps, but the console has a great built quality. The second one is the infamous Kw-501, which i was kinda disappointed that the built quality was very bad, but the console has most of the features the Nasa lacks. Any of you guys owns an old Megadrive clone or similar?
  2. I have started programming using Batari. I decided I need to get a Harmony cartridge so that I can test my games on a real VCS. Whilst hunting on ebay, I saw the following:- http://www.ebay.co.u...sd=262985404875 The menu looks the same (minus the Harmony logo). I cannot find any information about these anywhere. Plus the tech specs seems to be the same too:- Specifics: 2600 Ninja Drive MicroSD/SDHC version NXP 70MHz ARM7TDMI-S microcontroller 8KB SRAM, 32KB Flash, and 512KB EEPROM 7MHz SPI bus controller Micro USB FTD232 serial interface Supports FAT32/16/12 with Windows Long Filenames (LFN) Bankswitching types supported: 2K, 4K, F8, F8SC, F6, F6SC, F4, F4SC, FA, FE, 3E, 3F, E0, E7, CV, UA, Supercharger, DPC, 0840, Custom Specs from the Harmony instruction manual page 9 - (http://harmony.atariage.com/files/harmony_manual_v2_online.pdf) Harmony Cartridge Technical Specifications Processor: NXP 70MHz ARM7TDMI-S microcontroller Memory: 8KB SRAM, 32KB Flash, and 512KB EEPROM SD Card Interface: 7MHz SPI bus controller USB: FTD232 serial interface Filesystems supported: FAT32/16/12 with Windows Long Filenames (LFN) Bankswitching types supported: 2K, 4K, F8, F8SC, F6, F6SC, F4, F4SC, FA, FE, 3E, 3F, E0, E7, CV, UA, Supercharger, DPC, 0840, Custom The specs are the same, even the order that they are listed. At the guys at Atariage okay with this? Or is this a legit Harmony competitor worth considering? Or should I just stick with the Harmony cart?
  3. I had this machine for a very long time in my collection of weird clone hardware, this one is probably among my rarest ones. Is a 64k pc similar to an commodore 64, that has a famicom built in, its a weird specimen even for famiclone standard, it uses a specific 5v ac adapter, wich makes some games have sound error's and visual glitches. Uses nes ports for the controllers, and has an expansion port that i still have no clue whats for, i have two of these but this is the only one that i have that has a fully working keyboard, the machine was bought in 1992 from a magazine number in CDMX, is a very interesting piece of clone hardware, and the last of the 3 bit corp computers. Im thinking about trading it for other weird clone console, or maybe another Gentry sufami clone to fix mine, if someone is interested pm Anyway, has someone ever heard of these computers by BitCorp before?
  4. I always had this kinda strange (or not) Frogger Atari 2600 cartridge with a drawing of two frogs on a pond. The game is effectively Frogger, I have been playing it on my Atari 7800, and the label style match up with other Zeller cartridges from Canada. But I got this cartridge from an unknown source, but I recognize it as one of those carts that were sold very cheap along with other bootleg carts. So my question is: Is this a Zeller's game that didn't made it, a rare variant, a common bootleg cart from Hong Kong or what?
  5. I recently found a 2600 clone! My first one, not counting the very not Atari-looking Akor Super TV Boy. I almost even ignored it because at first glance, it looked like an Atari 2600. Then I decided to check it, just in case there would be interesting games or accessories. And oh boy it became interesting very fast. So the clone is a "Television Computer System" manufactured by Dar Yar; model is 2600B-160. It is... quite descriptive. It is indeed a PAL B* system with 160 build-in games. It came with two joystick, both made in Taiwan, I assume from Day Yar as well. *PAL B here is unrelated to the unfamous NES A and B zones, here, B is for the technical video system used in msot of Europe, PAL B/G. UK used PAL I, France used SECAM L, Eastern Europe used SECAM D/K. With the exception of SECAM L, it's mostly a sound carrier issue. What caught my attention is the the outside is really well done. I could swap the shell for a genuine Atari 2600 and most people would be totally fooled. But let's have some picture so you can see it by yourselves : Big bonus for the plastic insert with the list of games. Very rad with that late 80's theme, hard to lose and impossible to destroy. Great job! Of course they couldn't copy the name and all. But still, looks very genuine. The "Game Select" button confused me for a bit, until I found the answer to that odd labelling later... On AtariAge The back is the part where a trained eye would spot odd things. Of course the biggest clue here (ignoring the sticker) is the "Dar Yar" embossed in the plastic. Still, remove it and it still look genuine. Now, let's take a look at the joysticks : Can you tell the real deal from the clone? For the nayed eye, they are hard to tell apart, but when you hold them... You can tell them more easily. I suppose those clones were made long before the consoles itself and they didn't took as much care to make them as they did for the system. The plastic, while still decent, is much thinner and hard, making it feel brittle. Two things to note here : one, they aren't shy of slapping "made in Taiwan" on their products. And second : They moved the cable exit, so that the rubber pads can be put more in the corner of the shell, making it a bit more stable than the original Atari design. The biggest changes are inside. Dar Yar completely redesigned the joystick. On one hand, the Taiwanese design is better than Atari's original. Those metal strips can be easily fixed and are reliable. Atari's use of those cheap clicker metal things isn't really a nice solution, requiring a PCB, then a layer of sticky tape to held those down, and those kind of clicky metal things flattens with use and don't work properly anymore. On the other hand, the downfall of the Dar Yar Joystick is the use of that cheap, hard plastic. As you can see in the second pic, a bit of strenght on it and it just snaps. Atari used soft plastic that bend and avoid such failure. Now let's go back to the system and do some comparisons with a Darth vader model... I mean, either they managed to get their hands on the original Atari molds, or they managed to copy them to a surprisingly good degree. With a genuine system to compare, little details appears that shows that it isn't an original factory model. One thing that appears clearly on the upper shell are the hole for the joysticks, power supply and difficulty switches, have all been redrilled, apparently by hand. My best guess is that the molding process wasn't perfect and plastic partially obtured the holes. For some reason, extra holes have been hand drilled on the bottom. I say for some reason because I see no reason for this, there is absolutely nothing under those. The hole for the RF cable is bigger too, but this time, there is a neat explanation : Dar Yar used a proper RCA plug, unlike Atari, so it couldn't fit through the original hole Also of notice is that Atari-made stuff is absolutely void of mentions about who and where it was made. Hah! Let's take a screwdriver now... Well, now you can easily tell the fake from the real deal. Some of you may know better than me so if you do, tell about it. But my guess is that Dar Yar only got their hands on the outside molds of a Darth vader or didn't wanted to pay for the inside part, and they simply recreated it by hand or "molded" it from an existing shell. I'd go for the molding because they copied everything from the original. Tho you'll notice that they added two plastic legs, that support the console PCB where you insert the cart, reducing stress on the PCB. Now I never heard of an original Atari PCB cracking or having contact issues because of this, but once again, we see that despite making a clone, Dar Yar attempted to improve the original Atari design. That's actually very cool Same "unproper finish" on the clone. But as an added bonus, they added "Dar Yar" inside. They were really proud of their work I assume! And frankly, I can see why. And now, maybe the most interesting part : I didn't had a proper Atari 2600 Jr to compare, but since it's a Darth vader shell... (don't mind the wires on the bottom of the original PCB, it's something I added to do a mod). Another good surprise : this is a proper, clean design! Not a single wire to patch a mistake, no botched hand soldering. If I had been given this PCB without any infos, I would never say it's a clone! Very impressive. The only giveaway (save from the lack of Atari markings) is the generic big chip. And, while I looked for a PAL Jr PCB, I found this : Important quote : So, now that explain why on this clone system, the B/W switch is called "Game Select". Tho, no this console, the switch does nothing. Here is a pic of the original Atari 128 games PCB : And the Dar Yar : The most mind-blowing thing, however, are the two main chips. They are the same used in both console, from the same manufacturer. If I looked right, the "generic" chip is the TIA, which kind of make sense as it's the only part Atari could sue (erm, at least, as far as electronics are concerned) and UMC probably didn't wanted that. It's noteworthy that various components on the board bear date codes of 89 and 90, so that clone was made and maybe sold while the Atari 2600 was still for sale. I didn't took any pic of the menu, for it's just 3 numbers you roll to select a game. Game display is correct so they took care of using PAL roms.
  6. Dear all, I've indulged myself with a great new 3"1/2 disk drive that I bought from "Sell My Retro". Until I can find and afford a true XF351 prototype, I'm truly happy with this disk drive. It's a hand-made clone of the XF551, with a 3"1/2 mechanism. I got it with a bootable DOS II+ disk (Stefan Dorndorf). It works fine. I tried to operate the drive with the SpartaDOS X cartridge, and formatted a 720kb disk, fine! Now, I'd like to get your expertise: SpartaDOS X allows me to format the diskette but not to make it bootable with a copy of the DOS... For a 3"1/2 disk drive, what do you think would be the best DOS, to create "bootable", 720kb formatted 3"1/2 diskettes? I would also like to get any documentation about this motherboard, to figure out what this J6 section (S1/S2/SIDE/STEP/DIR/TR00/VCC) is useful for. Thank you! Laurent (I've got more pictures of the drive and its motherboard if anyone is interested)
  7. In this one, we are taking an indepth review of the MP5 X7, a sort of love child of the Nintendo Switch and PS Vita. What is it and is it any good? Find out here! If you enjoy, please drop us a like and consider subscribing Social Media : Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/groups/33011... Twitter : http://twitter.com/RetroGamerVX Channel Support: Paypal donations : https://streamlabs.com/stephentwigg Patreon : https://www.patreon.com/RetroGamerVX Mine Exploration Channel : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsW2E1LQ7EETG9NQgij2dWA/
  8. Hi, recently bought a 1050 where a Happy-Clone from IRATA (Berlin Germany) is installed. It also runs flawlessly, only it has a few more contact surfaces (see picture), and I can not find ANYWHERE documents. So I wanted to know if any of you still have information about it (Schematics, Switches like "Speed on/off" a.s.o.) It is also recognized by Happy-Tooldisk 1 as Happy, and the tests run completely, except for ROM positive - But I had the same with another Happy-Clone that it hooked right there, which is also logical, because the values of the EPROM are not 100% those of the origin. I just want to know what else I can do with it, that is, what else I can connect and above all where on the PINS. And important : What features are included? tya for reading ?
  9. Alright, so I broke my NES a couple of months ago (it's a long story) and I've been looking for a NES to play my games on and I found this thing on ebay for $25 (including shipping) and i said "what the heck i might as well check it out". After waiting about 4 days, it came into the mail today and I was pretty excited to see what a $25 NES would have in store. So In the box you get: 1. System 1. A/V Cable 1. Power Adapter 2. Controllers So I hook it up to my CRT and pop in Super Mario Bros and already there's a huge problem, it sounds like nesticle. Everything was in a different pitch and Sounded like Mario ate one too many mushrooms, after I was done with that vaporwave version of Super Mario Bros I decided to play some Ninja Gaiden 2 on the system and guess what? There was little to no difference between playing on an original NES and playing it on this NOAC system! After being happy my $25 NOAC system wasn't nesticle in a box I played every game I have in my collection and they all worked, except one and that was Ninja Gaiden 1. So out of all 8 of my games 6 work (seemingly) perfectly, 1 has bad sound and 1 doesn't work at all. The controllers are really above average. They're like if Nintendo made brand new NES controllers but rounded. Overall I give this system an 8/10. This system is a decent NOAC Clone System and it's perfect for someone who just started collecting for the NES but doesn't want to spend $60-$80+ for an original NES. even though it has poor sound quality on some games and May have some terrible compatibility issues it still gets the job done and plays most of the essentials. Basically its like McDonalds, its not the best but it gets the job done.
  10. Is anyone else running into audio/video popping when using a Suncom Tac2 with a Sears Video Arcade II? It only happens when I press the orange buttons on either side of the controller. The 4 switch woody 2600 I have has no issues with it. I wonder if it's a power/feedback issue with that specific model. It's kind of comical to watch the screen jump and audio crackle in Berzerk every time you shoot an alien. Also the regular Atari controllers (cx-40?) do not have the issue. I am using a non-Atari branded 9VDC 1A adapter with polarity like (-)-©-(+). Wondering if maybe it's a power issue, although the Arcade II exhibits no other problems with any other devices. There seems to be zero consensus on what the ideal V/A or even polarity or AC/DC should be on these forums and interwebs for this console but I do believe it has to have a bridge rectifier if it can handle both VDC and VAC adapters. I just got this unit with the Tac2 over the weekend locally so I have no idea if it ever didn't do this with the tac2. My guess is it's just the fact that it's a clone that wasn't completely vetted with 3rd party accessories since it was originally destined to be the 2800 in Japan.
  11. Hello guys! This is my first post and English is not my first language, so please forgive any mistakes. So a few days ago I found this little guy in a storage room filled with broken pcbs and other junk and i decided to try and fix it. First i noticed that the top part of the power switch was missing so i closed the circuit by putting jumpers on the switch, then plugged in a 9v adapter and tried hooking it up to a CRT to see if it was working...nothing came up so the first thing i checked was the 7805 regulator which was dead. I replaced the 7805 and i made a rough RF to AV mod (just video. no sound) from a schematic i found online. I plugged it in (AV) and this time it worked perfectly, even when i connected it through RF, it had a bunch of built in games on it, it was great! But sadly after 10 minutes or so, the picture went crazy all of a sudden with flashing colors of all kinds of patterns (see attached photos). Also when i plug it to the RF connector the picture is blue-ish with static and there is a high piched sound in the background. I really hope i didn't fry it or something, because i wanted to make a case for it and give it to my brother as a birthday present... Any ideas what's wrong with it, or how to troubleshoot it? I'm not really good on electronics but i know a thing or two... I also attached the AV mod i i did (not my photo). Thanks in advance!
  12. Hi to all. I got hold of a 2600 'Vader' clone a while back, and it is a bit different from others I have seen. Produced in Hong Kong, no RF shielding, 64-in-1 built in games with re-purposed switches, and very odd joysticks. PCB has "8931" on it, which I am guessing is a date stamp for 1989, 31st week. [Edit: the chip stack marked "510002D" has an "8929" date stamp, so it is a 1989 clone.] Photos below. Console: Weird joystick (two supplied with console):
  13. I am looking at a Coleco Gemini system, just the system, no controllers (although I have some), no plugs or cords, seller doesn't know if it works. He wants $39 for it. Should I buy it, is it a good price for one? I dunno on this.
  14. The AtariGuide AC adapter has been around for a couple of years now. Have you had good luck, bad luck? Heard good things or bad things? Is it a good replacement for the original power supplies? Thanks! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ac-Power-Adapter-for-Atari-7800-System-/112168344158?hash=item1a1dc11a5e:g:I7IAAOSw4shYA0PD
  15. Back in the good ole time, when a good third of the world was under Bolchevic rule... KPO ElectronMash, in Kiev, then part of the USSR, released the Poisk-1, (the KPO Электронмаш ПОИСК-1,originally "Poisk", renamed Poisk-1 after the release of Poisk -2 and Poisk-3 computers, which were to my understanding rebadged ordinary 286 and 386 PCs) in 1991. Just in time to be a "made in USSR" product. sales figures are impossible to find, but it seems that the Poisk-1 was produced at least up to 1994, and accessories were made for it up to 1996. The Poisk-1 is an IBM-XT clone, powered by a KM1810VM88 (8088 clone) @ 4.77Mhtz, 128 Ko of RAM. It come with a tape input, 3 video output : black and white composite video out, RGB (SCART compatible) output, and CGA output. Under the slot covers lies 4 connectors that allow to plug expensions modules. Amazingly (or not) several add-on cards were made. The main and most desirable ones add floppy drive support, hard drive support and 512Ko of extra RAM, there is also printer port, COM ports, sound card, joystick support... From what I've seen, none of those expansions have pass-through connectors, so you can only have 4 expansions at once plugged on it. From what I got, those mentions down the keyboard are "Electronic" and "Information and game complex". I tried several time, changing the order, etc... but it does seems that this computer was sold as a game machine. It's showtime ! journée capot ouvert! Let's have some devious motherboard pictures. Sadly, it appears it didn't survived the travel from Ukraine too well : Hopefully, the trouble lie in the pwoer supply. I do'nt have the original one, so I used an old and dirty XT one. First using this schema : But here, the +5V is "key". So I used another 5Volts line but it didn't made it much better.
  16. So, one of my dreams came true recently : I have a ZX Spectrum at home! But not any Spectrum! It's an Орель БК-08, or Orel BK-08. Or maybe PC-08 ( БК is the short for Бытовой Компьютер = Home Computer, so HC or PC for Personnal Computer would be an acceptable transcription. In the meantime, Orel is Eagle, so maybe it's the Orel BK-08 or the Eagle PC-08. Whatever...) I was build in USSR, more precisely in Ukraine, in the town of Dnepropetrovsk, between 1984 and 1993 (but is reported to have been sold up to 1995). I got the system barebone, so I had to provide a 24V power supply, and the video cable. So the Orel is a ZX Spectrum clone, but quite more advanced than most. As can be seen, it feature a REAL keyboard, that use Reed switches (a magnetic based system) As such, the keyboard feel really strange, as there is no rubber domes or a physical switch, the keys press down freely and go down on their spring without added feedback. It's hard to describe. But the general feeling is pleasant and feel relatively sturdy; the keys are firmly maintained and doesn't wiggle around like C64 keys for example. The only less good key is the space bar, but that's a common issues on all keyboards, and really I just need to check the springs for putting it back in good shape. There are added keys that provide more functions, most notably the РУС and Р/А keys. The РУС (RUS) key allow to type in cyrillic characters, as well as the P/A one; the difference being that P/A only type one character, the RUS one switch the mapping until you press it again. Some site report that the Orel feature 64Ko or RAM, but while it's true, only 48Ko are available to the system, the 16 remaining Ko are for the added part of the build-in BASIC and the NMI function (if I got that part right!) But it's not only about a keyboard and a fancy look, right? The Orel also include built-in standard video, tape in and out, and two joysticks ports, all in good old DIN format. Unlike many other Soviet computers, the video standard used here isn't RGB TTL or some other CGA type of video, but standard SCART signals that allow for a straight cable to be used to feed a SCART compatible TV, or a xRGB. Yay! The joystick ports are supposedly in Sinclair/Kempton standards, but I haven't looked yet for wiring a joystick on them so I can't confirm. For expansion, the connector isn't located on the back, but in a cartridge-like slot atop of the machine : Apparently, the Orel also include a КР1818ВГ93 chip, that is a floppy controller, meaning that straigt wiring the conenctor to a floppy drive is possible with no additionnal components (aside from a PSU for the floppy drive) For anyone curious, the blue connector used is a very common Soviet parallel connector, know as СНП58. Supposedly was standardized as a parallel interface (and in know cases, can be adapted with one some passive components to LPT/Centronics signals we know), but on many computers, some pins were used for specific lines. The keyboard received his own serial number and part number. Given this general design, it might have been also mounted on other machines? The 2.9.40.007 is the "complete name" of the computer, not a given serial number. The S/N is probably the one under, and applies for the year. You might have noticed that the computer doesn't feature a power button, and indeed, like on most Soviet machines, the power button is located on the power supply. This mean that I can't really turn off mine since the PSU I use doesn't have any power switch. Thanks a lot for the RESET button! Booting the beast : BASIC - SYSTEM Ver. 2.0 The BASIC of the Orel is an almost straight copy of the original one - except for various bugfixes and the adaptations to the slightly different hardware of the Orel. The biggest change being that most (all?) messages have been translated in Russian. Loading a programme : Loading interrupted, because my media software crashed Can't trust this modern tech! About crashing, obviously, the Orel BK isn't 100% compatible with all Spectrum 48K software. The most commonly cited example is Bomb Jack : But unlike other clones that improved the Spectrum (bug correction, faster CPU, faster RAM, Russified ROM loading in parts where game usually expect to load/look for data) the conceptors of the Orel took great care to make it as compatible as possible with the original Spectrum. So far I tried about a dozen of different programs, small demos, games, and only Bomb Jack and an Hungarian game of the 80's didn't worked (and for the Hungarian game, it most likely was written for a Spectrum clone itself so it doesn't prove much there). So I hope you liked this little intro, and now, if you have suggestion for Spectrum 48K games (with no AY sound) that you like or that I should try, I won't mind hearing them!
  17. Just out of curiosity, did anyone here buy the Analogue Nt NES Clone? http://www.analogue.co/products/analogue-nt-information
  18. I recently bought a Hyperkin Retron System to play my Nes collection on, so I didn't have to put more wear and tear on my Nintendo (replacement cart connectors get expensive after awhile! ). I really liked it, its so easy to set up and small enough to take anywhere with a tv, plus it plays my games pretty easily. Well, it got me to thinking, maybe there is a similar system to play Atari 2600 games on? Well, I had no luck finding one , so, I contacted Hyperkin to see if they would consider making one for the Atari Games. They said they would forward my email to their R&D department and look into possibly making one. Long story short, there may be a new system to play your old Atari games on to where you dont have to hack up your old machine to play it on a newer tv. And yes, the original system is still best, (im not selling my sixers, either one) , but if they put out a Retron System to play Atari games on,( for about $20-25 USD) would you buy one?
  19. From the album: My Game Collection

    Bought it at a local Recycler/Resale Shop for $10, had all controllers, cords, and light gun. all works.
  20. "I'd certainly nominate [The Dreadnaught Factor] for remake status. With some visual upgrades, it would make a great XBLA download." -IGN Review "A cheapo remake [of The Dreadnaught Factor] on XBOX Live Arcade would be a blast..." -flojomojo "Would also like to see a remake of an old Intellivision game called 'The Dreadnought Factor' (also on the atari 5200)" -Andifferous This needed doing. So I did it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85j1Agw6Zgw The current version is just a prototype for the CREATE Jam contest. The prototype runs on generic Android hardware with an attached game controller. (e.g. Ouya dev hardware, an MK808 stick, or a Nexus 7 tablet) The game is ultimately going to be developed for the Ouya and GameStick game consoles. If anyone is interested in trying the prototype, let me know and I'll post the APK file. Note that I need your support to progress in the CREATE Jam contest. Please support me in the contest by liking the video below! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpLWWQ85VuE Hope you like it, and I'd love to hear your thoughts!
  21. Hi everybody, i actually looking for the Splice Vision ones in working condition or other colecovision clone i don't have ! Thanks for your offer and interest
  22. At first I had the system. Then I got games for it. The games... A whole lot of 11 games, still shrinkwrapped! (mostly. It's so old and cheap that most of it fall apart). So what is an Advision Home Arcade anyway? Well it's nothing but a French licenced version of the Emerson Arcadia 2001. A good point is that unlike most clones, it's (said to be) compatible with Emerson carts. The bad point is that Emerson carts are way more expensive than Advision carts! Strangely, the box system have the same picture on front and back. So there isn't really a front and a back. The onbox description (translated from French) : "Advision Home Arcade" "Adventure on the screen!" - The Home Arcade game system can be plugged easily on any color or black and white TV - Just introduce the cassette in the slot designed for it on the system - Game sounds will be reproduced on your TV speaker - Games handles are equipped with removeable pads (I guess that they mistranslated "joysticks") - They are linked to the system by "telephone style" cable - Each handle is fitted with 12 multifunction keys - Turn your TV in arcade game - 9V PSU provided with the system - This console can be used in a caravan, boat, car - Red light power indicator - HA2 model (probably means that HAnimex is behind that system...) - Made by and distribued by Advision France (ha, take that,Apple! For anyone wondering, this system and carts all come from Hong Kong) - Conformity to french norms is guaranteed by Advision Quite a lot of useless babble by today's standards... And weird one, too. Even if the French average customer had not great knowledge of video game system in 1982 (or it could have been out even later), at the time, only Pongs systems would have an internal speaker. Mentioning the PSU is strange too... and that line on the used of the system in a boat... WTF? I guess it come straight from Emerson's ads? A tag mention a "special price" handwritten, of 1080 (French Francs probably). If we assume that special price was put on in 1985, when French stores cleared their shelves of all game systems because of the 8 bits computer craze and the fall of US consoles, it give us a rough estimate of 280€. So, around 390US$. Well, the PS4 isn't THAT expensive after all... The system itself is pretty akin to the Emerson version. It's more rounded, there is no stupid fake wood grain, and all buttons are square. The slot shape is slightly different too. Some French version are said to have a DIN plug outputting RVB+sound. Sadly, this one doesn't. Oddly enough, one side of the box got a French game title (La fuite on the featured example), the other got the original English title. The same goes for the back of the box, which feature the English name, but a plain text description of the game (in French). Much like the Emerson carts, the Advision carts come in two flavors : tall and short. Front and end label are in English, so I suppose they are the Emerson original ones. Interestingly enough, the overlays are translated in French. Something that neither Mattel nor Colecovision did. On the other hand, they are really crude looking. I don't know if the Emerson one are as blank as those ones. As usual for the time, the notices are in black and white, but the paper is a somehow quality glossy paper. Interestingly enough, the back of the cart feature the back of the box, minus the rainbowy game title. Last but not least : I always heard that the Emerson library was made of unlicenced ripoff from famous arcade games, and less famous ones. Well, it's either wrong or just misinformation. True, games on the upper row here are copies of famous games (Cat Trax, a kind of PacMan clone, Escape is a kind of Berzek clone, and Breakout.. is Breakout). But games on the lower row are all labeled in the lower right corner "Licenced : Arcade game" and you can read under the title for each 3 "Patent by Konami Industry Co, LTD" The game title screen also feature the Konami copyright and original arcade title. Well that's it. How does it compare with the Arcadia 2001? It's a nice thing to discoved, 30 years later, games still unopened and in so mint state. Don't worry, fellow gamers. Only 3 games were spared; all of the others were opened and played a bit, and will be played more!
  23. Well, this little beauty (link) hit dx.com today, and I found myself unable to take my wallet out fast enough for my liking. The Hamy has 76 built in games, seems to take famicom carts, A/V out, and costs $24 shipped--what's not to like? This is perfect for playing all those clone carts I picked up and had to play via adapter in my fc-mobile ii (since they won't play right on real nes hardware, only clones). I've also got more than a few legit FC carts around. I just thought I'd drop a quick topic here in case anybody else is so inclined to take a $24 gamble. Will also post some quick impressions when it arrives (in like a month). edit: looks like there is also another version of hamy--that example is a defective unit on ebay, and on top of it, it looks a lot worse to play. (not to mention costing more)
  24. This may be the only example of this clone that is unknown to all, the 2600 systemdeveloped by Robby Game. http://www.gameplayerspecial.com/robby-game-the-rarest-atari-2600-brazillian-clone/ Has anyone heard of him?
  25. This was acquired a few months back, but never tested it. It works like a charm! The second switch, cycles through the game if left to ON position. If you like a game, you must be quick enough to press the switch to OFF. Plays most cartridges except Harmony LOL serial I also took a few pictures from the inside.
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