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Blogs

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  • Testing
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  • Gernots A500 game reviews
  • NeonPeon's (Mark W's) Adventures in programming for Vectrex
  • wookie's Blog
  • Syntax Terror Games
  • Byte's Blog
  • Stories from the -: ITC :-
  • Justclaws' Blog
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  • The Atari Strikes Back
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  • A Wandering Shadow's Travels
  • no code, only games now
  • BRP's random dev journaling
  • SID CROWE TESTING THE blog softwareeee
  • Arjak's Blog
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  • Musings of the White Lion
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  • The Usotsuki Crunch
  • Retro Gaming Obscuria
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  • Zero One
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  • Chronogamer
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  • Atari Randomness
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  • Austin's Blog
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  • Robert Hurst
  • waterMELONE's Blog
  • Robert M's Blog
  • This Is Reality Control
  • Flickertail's Blog
  • albaki's Blog
  • Animan's Blog Of Unusual Objectionalities
  • Dexter's Laboratory Blog
  • BTHOTU's Blog
  • Devbinks' Blog
  • ATASCI's Blog
  • Zach's Projects
  • a1t3r3g0's Blog
  • ATASCI's Blog
  • BuzzTron-451's Blog
  • The 7800 blog
  • --- Ω ---'s Blog
  • The Occasional Coder
  • 4Ks' Blog
  • Joystick Lunatic Software on AtariAge
  • carmel_andrews' Blog
  • mourifay's Blog
  • Zander's Blog
  • iratanam's Blog
  • Zsuttle's gaming adventures
  • The randomness that is Mr. 8-bit/16-bit.
  • junkmail's RDE&P Blog
  • Doctor Clu's Space Shows
  • bluetriforce's Blog
  • Lynxman's FlashCard Blog
  • TWO PRINTERS ONE ADAM
  • ubikuberalles' Blog
  • JagMX's Blog
  • Atari Jaguar Game Mascots
  • Worm Development Blog
  • The Wreckening
  • Learning fbForth 2.0
  • Eight Bit's Blog
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  • splendidnut's Blog
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  • Incagold's Blog
  • The Atari Jaguar Game by Game Podcast
  • phaxda's Blog
  • lost blog
  • Syzygy's Story Blog
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  • kurtzzzz's Blog
  • Atarian Video Game Reviews
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  • Guitarman's Blog
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  • The Southsider
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  • The World is Flat?
  • Robert @ AtariAge
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  • otaku's Blog
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  • otaku's Blog
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  • Zybex/Atariware Blog
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  • XDK.development present Microsoft Xbox One Development
  • JagDiesel's Palace 2
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  • Song I Wake Up To
  • Sega_master's Blog
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  • Jeffrey.Shamblin's Blog
  • Deep into the Mind Game
  • edweird13's Blog
  • Important people who shaped the TI 99/4A World
  • Bob's Blog
  • That's what she said.
  • My blog of stuff and things
  • Rockin' Kat's Blog
  • Hitachi's Blog
  • David Vella's Blog
  • Push Me, Pullman
  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
  • Osgeld's Blog
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  • Goochman's Marketplace Blog
  • CyranoJ's ST Ports
  • dgob123's INTV Blog
  • Marc Oberhäuser's Blog
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  • Random Terrain's Tetraternarium
  • Masquane's AtariAge Blog
  • Star_Wars_Collector
  • Odyssey Development Corner
  • satan165's Dusty Video Game Museum
  • Alp's Art Blog
  • Pacmaniax
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  • Excali-blog
  • GPD Comics Blog
  • Retail hell (The EB years)
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  • Retro VGS Coleco Chameleon Timeline
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  • Game Maker to Game Dev
  • Geoff Retro Gamer
  • Days Atari Events
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  • Geoff1980's Blog
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  • Hulsie's Blog
  • Coleco Mini
  • Shannon's Blog
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  • liquidcross.com - blog
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  • 7399MGM's Blog
  • MIPS HEAVY INDUSTRIES
  • Xuel's Blog
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  • MayDay Today
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  • Great Exploitations
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  • Random Acts of Randomness
  • Atari 2600 for sale with 7 games 2 controllers
  • Kaug Neatos Crash Bandicoot Bandwagon
  • TROGBlog
  • A Ramblin' Man
  • lexmar482's Blog
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  • vegathechosen's Blog
  • Being Of The Importance Of Shallow Musing.
  • Justin Payne's Blog
  • Atari 2600JS
  • daclmi's Blog
  • ebot
  • Doctor Clu's Dissertations
  • 2600 in 2006
  • Markvergeer's Blog
  • schmitzi's Blog
  • Sayton's Blog
  • GEOMETRY WARS ATARI 2600
  • BNE Jeff's Blog
  • For whom it may concern
  • LEW2600's Blog
  • AverageSoftware's Development Blog
  • Osbo's Blog
  • Pac-Man Vs Puck-Man's Blog
  • FireBlaze's Blog
  • ataridude81's Blog
  • Bri's House
  • Atarimuseum.nl
  • Wiesbaden Gaming Lab
  • Les Frères Baudrand's Blog
  • Vorticon's Blog
  • SpiceWare's Blog
  • Secure Your E-Commerce Business With ClickSSL.com
  • TurkVanGogH GameZ's Blog
  • The Upward Spiral
  • raskar42
  • bow830's Blog
  • Web-Frickin'-Log
  • The P3 Studio
  • Arcade Attack - Retro Gaming Blog
  • Starosti 8bitového grafika
  • Bydo's Blog
  • MrRetroGamer's Blog
  • WWW.BUYATARI.TK
  • defender666's Blog
  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
  • commodore & atari :)'s Blog
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  • dazza's arcade machine games
  • Dusk2600's Blog
  • Chuplayer's Blog
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  • GAMEBOT
  • pacman100000's Blog
  • The Outback
  • Lynx 20 years
  • POKEY experiments
  • -^CroSBow^-'s Hardware Videos
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  • JPjuice23's Blog
  • Captain's Blog
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  • Gary Mc's Blog
  • Memoirs of a Novelty Account
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  • Second-Hand Shop
  • le geek's nonsense
  • SUB HUNTER in A8
  • Doctor Clu's BBS Trotter
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  • Lunar eclipse of the mind
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  • The Social Gamer
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  • Ping. Pong. Ping. Pong.
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  • Troff the Shelf
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  • mapleleaves' Blog
  • jacobus Indev
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  • Dallas' Blog
  • Pac & Pal for the Atari 2600 fan project
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  • drawscreen then reset
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  • CJ's Ramblings
  • DarQ Massacres' Atari 2600 collection
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  • When Robots Attack
  • dragging through the retro streets at dawn
  • Rose-Tinted Recollections
  • Flack's Daily Smack
  • Please Delete - Created by Accident
  • Young Guy Experiencing Atari
  • Jboypacman's Blog
  • Nerdbloggers
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  • atasciiview
  • Classic Stories
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  • 2600 games worse then E.t
  • Bruce Tomlin's Blog
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  • Brain droppings...
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  • Maybe its a Terrible Tragedy
  • Funkmaster V's Gettin' Hip with tha Atari 7800
  • Mr. Pac-Man's Blog
  • Guru Meditation
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  • JellE's Dwelling
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  • The 12 Turn Program: Board Game Addiction and You
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  • Tezz's projects blog
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  • Atari 2600 Collection Bulk Box/ Cartridge Sale
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  • My Vintage Game collection
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  1. Hi, I've just bought 2 power supplies for my Atari 130XE and my Atari 800XE as I lost my previous power supplies during moving. I've bought the new power supplies from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/324218268282 Now, this seller has MANY positive reviews and experience, so I'm probably reading every schematic / pinout wrong. The adapters do look hand made though - the connector part - maybe a mistake was made. I've connected both supplies to my 130XE, and nothing. No signal, completely dead. Ok, I've tried the 800XE. Same, dead. I've measured the power supply and it gives 5volts, it is rated at 1amp. Still nothing. But then, I started noticing the polarity might be wrong. It's reversed from just about any picture / pinout I can find. So I've opened the computer and measured. Please see photo attached. Is this the correct polarity, and my Ataris just died, or is the polarity reversed? If reversed, did I just kill my computers?:( Thank you all a lot.
  2. Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post
  3. I've been troubleshooting a 1571 drive for a while now and I've pretty much exhausted everything on the mainboard. I'd like to work on the PSU, but it's wrapped in a metal cage and I don't see how it opens, short of cutting it apart. Does anyone know how I can get into the power supply on my 1571 drive?
  4. Does anyone know the volts, milliamps and the polarity of the original Gemini power supply? Also is it DC or AC?
  5. I've managed to bring one of my XEGS's back from the dead (New RAM and CPU) but the power switch is seized in the off position. Has anyone managed to repair one of these switches? If not any ideas where I could find a replacement, preferably in the UK? Is the TK-II-XEGS available from anyone other than the brewing academy? It's going to cost about £40+ whatever customs duty to get one over here, and I don't want to spend that much Thanks
  6. I've got an Odyssey 3000 and I'm tired of using the damn 6C batteries it takes. It has a 9V plug in the back that looks like it fits a 2600 plug but its smaller. Is there a power supply out there that works? It runs on 700mW
  7. Been going on a bit of a repair kick lately and got myself into a bit of trouble / mystery. Way back in the olden days, I got a catalog in the mail from some outfit named INTV Corporation. I ordered an INTV System III from them - so I could have my very own Intellivision to haul off to college! In the ensuing years, that system has gone through quite a lot, even tolerating my "repairs". One time when opening it (another story there, let's just say it needed fixing), I essentially destroyed the ribbon cable connecting the power board to the main board. I hacked together an absolutely horrible solution, and so it stayed for the past 15 years or so. I started using different systems as "daily drivers". I finally decided to remedy the hacky repair, because the system was unstable due to … shall we say … some extremely bad work on my part. At the time I did the "repair" I damaged the traces on the power board where the ribbon cable used to be, and age has not been kind to that board. (In my defense, I did the repair using materials at hand and a soldering gun -- yeah, that was fun!) OK, backstory done. Let's move to today: I removed the mess from the old "repair" and put in something more tidy and less prone to accidental grounding-of-things-that-should-not-be-grounded. However, the damage done so many years back must have caused more issues. The system seemed to work -- until I closed it all up. More investigation revealed further connectivity problems due to damaged traces. So, I reworked the connections again. More stress on an already compromised board... Now, I still have a really bad multimeter. If you're curious, it's this one. So while I can say the voltages on the connector pins are "ballpark", I can't say with any confidence that they are "in spec". Here's the weirdness: One controller does not work. (the right controller). But only with this power board. If I connect a different power board, both controllers work just fine. With this super duper hacky-fixed-up power board, only the left controller works. Using the 4.1 test cart, the chips all pass tests, etc. but I get zero response from the right controller... Swapping back to the brand new power board, everything works just fine. Ideas? I'd like to keep the original parts intact - hacked up damage and all - if possible. Plus it's useful to have a functioning, separate power board available for testing things like this.
  8. ok, I was just perusing our own favored webstore, Arcade Shopper, and I read the description (who does that anymore?!?!), and I came to the part about external power not being necessary, if you mod the speech synth with 1 wire on 2 points. Pin 1. (Excellent Description). I am still ubernoob in the TI world, but the fact that this simple oversight on TI seems... ludicrous? Unless.... the peripherals connected beyond the SS would have been externally powered. Well I will tell you what mod I am doing after I get home tonight!!
  9. So I'm trying to consolidate the amount of damn mains plugs for my Atari stuff (among others) and after searching previous topics, the 9v requirement of peripherals seems to be a bit of stumbling block. I have absolutely no knowledge of power conversion and related topics, so can anyone electrical confirm if this solution would work for powering 1050s and the like, assuming the correct barrel connector is used? A multiport fast USB charger such as this along with step up USB cables such as this? And after typing that lot out i realised I was a bit of a dunce as 1050 etc. use AC power...Interestingly however, I did find this USB inverter that has completely the wrong type of connector of course, but shows that in theory (I think?) such a thing is possible. Anyone any thoughts?
  10. Is anyone else running into audio/video popping when using a Suncom Tac2 with a Sears Video Arcade II? It only happens when I press the orange buttons on either side of the controller. The 4 switch woody 2600 I have has no issues with it. I wonder if it's a power/feedback issue with that specific model. It's kind of comical to watch the screen jump and audio crackle in Berzerk every time you shoot an alien. Also the regular Atari controllers (cx-40?) do not have the issue. I am using a non-Atari branded 9VDC 1A adapter with polarity like (-)-©-(+). Wondering if maybe it's a power issue, although the Arcade II exhibits no other problems with any other devices. There seems to be zero consensus on what the ideal V/A or even polarity or AC/DC should be on these forums and interwebs for this console but I do believe it has to have a bridge rectifier if it can handle both VDC and VAC adapters. I just got this unit with the Tac2 over the weekend locally so I have no idea if it ever didn't do this with the tac2. My guess is it's just the fact that it's a clone that wasn't completely vetted with 3rd party accessories since it was originally destined to be the 2800 in Japan.
  11. This is more of a feeler listing as I would like to find out if it's possible to get a G5 1.6GHZ compatible AGP video card with at least 128MB VRAM(256 preferred, but dependent on cost) for a more reasonable amount of money than the +$100 listings i've seen on eBay. All things being equal, I would rather not dump a log of money into a machine that has somewhat of a checkered history as far as it's reliability is concerned. I don't have any hardware that I could use to flash an AGP video card myself, so I can't just buy a PC ROM card and flash it. As long as it works with my system and preferably has a VGA port in addition to DVI, I wouldn't mind a flashed GPU if it meant it was a bit cheaper. I was hoping to stay under $30 shipped if at all possible. Thanks for reading.
  12. I had just done a McWill update and everything was working great. It ran fine for a few hours and a few on/off cycles, then I couldn't turn the Lynx on. I assumed the MOSFET has failed, ordered a couple, put it in and then POP, TP18 blew up real good! Perhaps I didn't purchase the right MOSFET, or just a coincidence? This is the MOSFET I ordered from Digikey: NDT2955CT-ND NDT2955 MOSFET P-CH 60V 2.5A SOT-223-4 Assuming nothing else blew and I have the right part, I've heard there was a zener diode I should be replacing as well, but I don't know which one or it's value. I, of course, need to replace TP18 -- what part is that? Thanks in advance to you all.
  13. I'm looking for a good Raspberry Pi setup I have the following Xbox to trade or possibly sell (includes) IDE Adapter to Sata Card 80 pin high speed ribbon cable 750GB 7200 Rpm hard Drive Clear "Ghost" Case 2 Controllers Dukes Power Cable Hi-def component cables Red lighted Controller Ports Blue Lighted Top Power Switch On the Controller Clear DVD Cover Mod vid_1.mp4vid_2.mp4 PM me for details Thanks for looking!
  14. Hey all, As I didn't really see a 'dumb questions' topic, I'll just ask here: I've dusted off my Atari Lynx yesterday and tried to boot it using the original power cable. Sadly it didn't really seem to want to boot (it did get power when I fiddled a bit with the plug part that goes into the Lynx). So I scavenged for 6 batteries, put those into the Lynx and it boots without any issues. So either the power port is dirty / worn out or the adapter (the plug part) is dying. To verify this, my plan is to get an universal power adapter with a 3.5 mm x 1.35 mm plug (if I'm correct, that's the one the Lynx uses?). I could also look into somehow cleaning the power port (I'm not sure how to go about that though...). Any advice or does this problem sound familiar to anyone? In the meanwhile I'm looking for my second device as well (which may still be at my parents actually), which also has it's own power adapter... I'm at least trying to get a completely working Lynx to get the McWill mod done. It feels a bit of a waste if it only works with batteries... Thanks in advance!
  15. Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
  16. Hi all, I've been browsing the Atariage forums for a long time now and with help from a lot of great posts I've modded and resurrected quite a few Atari systems. Thank you, to all of the knowledgeable and friendly people who post here. I finally came up against some issues that I haven't been able to sort out by searching the forums. I'll start out by telling everybody about the system I have. It is a 4 port 5200, (the non VCS adapter compatible one). I bought it untested from ebay with 3 games and 4 controllers, but no power supply or switchbox. I bought an original 4 port power supply and did the power mod to eliminate the need for the all in one switchbox, (thank you Mitch and CPUWIZ). I am using the original soldered on RF cable to connect the 5200 to my TV, (I'll likely do the video mod after I sort out the issues I'm having). I've cleaned up 2 of the controllers and the buttons are working good. The joysticks were too, but that's changed. Anyhow after I completed the power mod and hooked the 5200 to my TV it looked and sounded great, no problems with any of the games I tried. However some of the controller inputs weren't reading, but the system seemed to be working great otherwise. After a while thought a new problem started. The system would not turn off with the power button and I started getting graphical errors with lockups. The power is on as soon as I plug it in, without even pressing the power button. After reading a few posts here it seemed that I my power problem and graphics troubles were likely due to a bad 4013 flip flop. I bought a pack of 25 and have tried about half of them - no change, the problems remain. As a matter of fact even without a 4013 socketed the 5200 powers on as soon as I plug it in and will on turn off. I also still get graphical corruption and lockups after a short time too. Aside from changing out the 4013 I've also tested the power switch for continuity. It has continuity when the button is pushed and none when it isn't, so the button isn't the problem. This has me really stumped, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. On to problem 2 - the controller input issue. As mentioned I've cleaned and got working 2 of the controllers. So after some searching of the posts it seemed likely that my problem was due to faulty CD4052 ICs. I bought a pack of 25 and replaced the 5 that are on the board. Success! All of the buttons now work as they should. However I am having trouble with the joysticks. The joysticks worked fine initially, before I changed the CD4052s, but started to give me trouble before I did the swap and it didn't go away with the swap. As soon as I start any game it acts like the joystick is being pushed all the way down and to the right. This happens even if the joystick is centered and does not change even if I move the stick all the way up and to the left, or any other direction for that matter. It's the same with both controllers and the same with both ports 1 and 2, I have not tried ports 3 or 4. More reading on the forums is leading me to suspect I've got a fault Pokey chip. The Pokey looks slightly discolored around the edges. I don't have another to swap out, yet, but that is what I plan on trying next. I've also cleaned the pins in all 4 or the ports. Again any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do own a multi-meter and a decent soldering iron, (which I am pretty good at using). I also got really lucky with the board revision in my 5200, every IC on the board is socketed, so no de-soldering required to swap out chips. This is the first 5200 I've owned and I've got a lot of great games that I want to start playing. I know some of you guys have seen it all with these systems, so I'm hopeful that I'll be able to sort it out with your help. Thanks in advance.
  17. Ok so I got a power supply that is good on +5,-5,but the +12 registers at like 124 and such. Anyone ever had the thought of opening the innards of the coleco and adding the electrical components inside to offset needing to dremel the power supply open? Just looking for alternatives although knowing I would need to be able to retro fit the interior if I get a new power supply and all. Just thinking inside the other box and all. Thoughts are welcome here.
  18. A few years back I found an original Intellivision console in a antique shop for only $10 so I bought it. Got it home and it wouldn't power. I cracked it open and found that the transformer was shot. Long story short I tinkered with other transformers to no luck and then shelved it. Well today I took a run at it again and I've made headway. The transformer has been replaced and now the power board outputs are mostly in spec. The 5v, 12v and -2v register fine with my multimeter but the unregulated 16v reads as 33v when tested with my meter. Is this acceptable when the power plug going to the main board is disconnected and the only load is the multimeter? I don't want to hook the power circuit up to the main board and blow it. I know unregulated lines give a wide range of reading depending on the load connected. Is the 16v line 16v when the system is running or just the base output with the cable not connected to anything but a meter? Btw: Nice forum
  19. I was given a PAL 7800 recently. The unit came as-is, untested with neither the power supply or controller, but 2 games including DKJr (One of my favorites), so I was pretty chuffed. I searched online for some info on a quick fix, and ended up hardwiring a SEGA MegaDrive 2 PSU. The console powers on and plays games! However, after a minute or two of play, the screen will crackle and the picture will disappear, only to glith back to normal seconds later. It repeats this process every few minutes. This issue has reoccurred every time I've tested the system. Any pointers folks?
  20. I have an Atari Jaguar, but lost the power adapter a long time ago. I've seen people saying the first-gen Genesis power adapter works for the Jaguar, but what about the MK-1602-1 adapter? It's intended for the first-gen Genesis, which requires 9V and 1.2A, but the adapter is 10V and 1.2A. I don't know why they made it 1 volt more, but it's meant for a system that requires 9V, so would it work for the Jaguar? From pictures people have posted, it looks like the same company might have made the same power adapter for multiple companies.
  21. I'm getting a Colecovision soon, without a power supply. These things are a nightmare, as you know - they have an obsolete plug and also supply the unit with +5, +12 and -5v dc. My question is this - Can the Colecovision be modded to a common 2.1mm barrel plug to take a 12vdc supply - powering a 7905 -5v reg and a 7805 +5v reg? Thus, giving the machine it's 12v, 5v and -5v supplies? I would also use some big custom heat sinks or Traco switching voltage regulators to keep the heat down inside the machine.
  22. While messing around on my 800xl yesterday, the colors on screen were sometimes strange. Turn off and on, wiggle cables, the colors would return to the correct colors...but change after a while. Then while in Basic, I watched as the background color drifted from blue to green over a 30 second span of time. At first I thought it was the monitor cable connector, but ended up discovering that I could make the colors change by slowly wiggling the cable of the power connection where it attaches to the connector plug. If it were an "ingot" I'd probably just toss it. But it is a black brick, so I'd prefer to keep it if it's easy to fix. A couple questions... - I've seen the pin outs for the plug. 3 +5 and 3 grounds. Are there actually 6 wires inside that power cable, or is it just 2 wires, each attached to 3 pins? - out of curiosity, I've wondered a few times through the years why Atari used a power connector with so many pins. Are those 3 "pairs" of pins connected to different parts of the circuit board, or are the 3 +5v pins tied together and just connected at one point on the board. If tied together, what was the point of having 3 separate pins? - back in the day I was into programming...the software side of things, not the hardware, so I never bothered to learn much about circuits, etc. But again, out of curiousity, how would a loose connection in that cable cause the odd color shifting I was seeing? I would expect a bad connection to cause the power to just cut out completely, not shift screen colors but otherwise keep functioning. Unless the 3 pins do have separate connections and just the pin going to the video circuit has a loose connection? - and lastly, the most obvious question.... What's my best source for getting a replacement connector? And possibly with wiring already soldered to the pins so that I can skip that somewhat difficult (for me) step and just splice the wires. Much thanks for any replies.
  23. Here's a quick power LED mod I did for my 4-switch woody 2600. It's not pretty but it works so far. I didn't want to mess with the original look of my Atari, so I chose not to drill a hole at the top or through the power switch itself. I used a 150 Ohm resistor and used the 5V and Ground on the main board. I didn't want to solder directly to pins 2 and 3 of the voltage regulator but I could have done that instead. The short pin on the LED goes to Ground. I also made sure the wires did not touch the 'heat plate' surrounding the voltage regulator, which can get very hot.
  24. I recently picked up a 5200 4-port. It's missing several case screws. Can anyone confirm the correct screws used for the case? I think the screws that came with this 5200 are type b #6-20 3/4 sheet metal screws. Is that what it should be or perhaps these were used to replace the original screws that were of a different type? Here's what was in my 5200: It didn't have a power supply, but I found one elsewhere. It's an 11.5v version. I tested it with a multimeter and it's outputting 14.5 volts. From what I've found the voltage regulators in both the case and the switchbox should be capable of handling over 30 volts. Do I have any reason to worry about using the power supply? 3 volts over seems like a big difference, is that typical or should I start looking for another power supply? The traces (or is it the soldermask) on the back side of the board on is wrinkly (see the POKEY to C104 wire image below). Is that normal or is it a sign of something I need to be worried about? It looks like the VCS adapter compatibility mod was applied to this board, but I also see a capacitor between pins 1 and 17 on the POKEY and a wire on the underside between pin 1 of the POKEY and C104. Is this a known mod? Any idea what it's for? Trying to smooth out power to the POKEY perhaps? In the middle of the rat's nest that is the VCS mod, I see a resistor and a capacitor (?) wired in parallel from between the two resistors connecting R11 and C10 as part of the VCS mod. There's also a diode wired to either side of R10. Any idea what they're for? The parts side of the pcb, marked CA018087, has no revision. The solder side, marked C018085 is rev 7. I will probably apply the mod to separate the power from the RF. I was also thinking about doing the mod for composite and/or s-video, but doing that would make the VCS mod pointless, right? If I did the composite/s-video mod I could pull the VCS mod out. If I did that would I need to reconnect pin 24 on the cartridge slot to ground? Thanks for any help/information you can provide. I hope to get this 5200 up and running soon.
  25. Hey guys, I recently got a TI Silent Type 745 Terminal, but it is missing the power cord. It seems to be something old from the 70s and as I live in Germany, it is kind of hard to get information about it. Anybody's got a clue what kind of cable this is, and how it is called, or where to obtain it? The plug is about 3cm wide, with is about 1.1inch and has three terminals. Thanks. falk
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