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Blogs

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  • Gernots A500 game reviews
  • NeonPeon's (Mark W's) Adventures in programming for Vectrex
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  • Byte's Blog
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  • The Atari Strikes Back
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  • A Wandering Shadow's Travels
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  • Zero One
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  • Robert Hurst
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  • This Is Reality Control
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  • Animan's Blog Of Unusual Objectionalities
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  • Zach's Projects
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  • The 7800 blog
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  • The Occasional Coder
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  • Joystick Lunatic Software on AtariAge
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  • Zsuttle's gaming adventures
  • The randomness that is Mr. 8-bit/16-bit.
  • junkmail's RDE&P Blog
  • Doctor Clu's Space Shows
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  • Lynxman's FlashCard Blog
  • TWO PRINTERS ONE ADAM
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  • Atari Jaguar Game Mascots
  • Worm Development Blog
  • The Wreckening
  • Learning fbForth 2.0
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  • The Atari Jaguar Game by Game Podcast
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  • Atarian Video Game Reviews
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  • The World is Flat?
  • Robert @ AtariAge
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  • That's what she said.
  • My blog of stuff and things
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  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
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  • Random Acts of Randomness
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  • Being Of The Importance Of Shallow Musing.
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  • Atari 2600JS
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  • ebot
  • Doctor Clu's Dissertations
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  • GEOMETRY WARS ATARI 2600
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  • For whom it may concern
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  • Bri's House
  • Atarimuseum.nl
  • Wiesbaden Gaming Lab
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  • TurkVanGogH GameZ's Blog
  • The Upward Spiral
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  • bow830's Blog
  • Web-Frickin'-Log
  • The P3 Studio
  • Arcade Attack - Retro Gaming Blog
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  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
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Found 23 results

  1. In the guts of it now. I'll link the pics here when done. For now, you can follow along on Facebook if you like. New pic each milestone. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10206883911608295&id=1592441926&ref=bookmarks
  2. 'Morning all, Currently in the process of repairing a poorly 520STfm. This is a UK 520, and it has found itself in sunny Australia, where the voltage is the same (220-240v). Board is nice and clean, no issues with burst caps or any other visible damage. The main symptom has been no power. I am replacing the PSU caps based on the Techwiki Astec ASP34 (Mine is ASP34-2). After removing all of them, I note most of the PSU caps have leaked at some point, so I have cleaned up the bottom & top of the board. Please see the photos. One of them has explosively decompressed out the side ( C7 ) . A couple of components also look burnt and/or damaged. Could anyone please assist in identifying the components in the pictures so I can replace them? I have pointed to them the best my limited paint skills allow. Thanks in advance all.
  3. I've been troubleshooting a 1571 drive for a while now and I've pretty much exhausted everything on the mainboard. I'd like to work on the PSU, but it's wrapped in a metal cage and I don't see how it opens, short of cutting it apart. Does anyone know how I can get into the power supply on my 1571 drive?
  4. Since over a week i have problems to get my Side3 running with SDX and register the SD. To understand the following hardware is used: 800XL with 320k megaram expansion, Sophia2, Side3 Booting without SD-Card: Booting with SD-Card inserted: Using the Sideloader an SD-Card all works fine an i can start ATR files till 180kb. But if i'm using my spare 800XL without any upgrades SDX boot up and recognise the SD-Card every time. For me it look like that the PSU is weak. (apologize for the wrong term) Any suggestions?
  5. I'm sure I only had two... Been having a tidy up and I still have the 12 or so that are in use. I really should stop buying drives.
  6. Hi, Can anyone confirm these power supplies are OK to use, they're a mixture of UK and continental European plugs, so types C, E/F and G? I've numbered the PSUs in the pictures, hopefully this should make things easier. Thanks!
  7. I have an ATR 8000 that does not power on. I was wondering if anyone has experience fixing or replacing the power supplies for these? Looks like an unusual PSU. Many thanks!
  8. I recently purchased a 1050 Disk Drive that came with a "BESTEK" DC 18-19.5V 3.61A positive-tip power adapter, and was told it would work. I don't know, so I thought I'd check here first before I "try and see." Is this safe to use? If so, would you consider it a better or worse choice than the original equipment 9VAC adapter? Thanks in advance. Cheers friends!
  9. I'm hoping someone here can help me. I apologize if this has been asked elsewhere but I wasn't able to find it. Cleaning out my garage I found an old 1200 XL in the styrofoam from my father-in-law. I plugged it in and tried to turn it on and got nothing, no lights no nothing. Pulled out the multimeter stuck it on the Atari end of the power supply ... nothing. So my questions for you all are #1 is there anything I can do to try to fix the original power supply, I'm fairly comfortable tinkering with electronics/soldering etc. #2 if the answer to number 1 is nope, will this one work? 9v 2a guitar pedal psus on amazon Any help at all would be greatly appreciated , if you need any more additional information please let me know ? Here are some pictures of the original Power Supply if that helps :
  10. So I'm trying to consolidate the amount of damn mains plugs for my Atari stuff (among others) and after searching previous topics, the 9v requirement of peripherals seems to be a bit of stumbling block. I have absolutely no knowledge of power conversion and related topics, so can anyone electrical confirm if this solution would work for powering 1050s and the like, assuming the correct barrel connector is used? A multiport fast USB charger such as this along with step up USB cables such as this? And after typing that lot out i realised I was a bit of a dunce as 1050 etc. use AC power...Interestingly however, I did find this USB inverter that has completely the wrong type of connector of course, but shows that in theory (I think?) such a thing is possible. Anyone any thoughts?
  11. I am buying a UK 800xl Will a US Power supply work on a uk sourced 800xl?
  12. I was given a PAL 7800 recently. The unit came as-is, untested with neither the power supply or controller, but 2 games including DKJr (One of my favorites), so I was pretty chuffed. I searched online for some info on a quick fix, and ended up hardwiring a SEGA MegaDrive 2 PSU. The console powers on and plays games! However, after a minute or two of play, the screen will crackle and the picture will disappear, only to glith back to normal seconds later. It repeats this process every few minutes. This issue has reoccurred every time I've tested the system. Any pointers folks?
  13. I have been playing with a recently acquired 1040 STE (my first STE in 25 years - cha-ching) and the case seems to get mighty warm to the touch above the PSU.., at least warmer than I remember back-in-the-day. How hot should the power supply be running? I've also had floppy read/write problems - accompanied with minor graphic glitches - but only after the computer been on for a few hours. I'm GUESSING this might be related to a failing PSU, (If I'm way outta whack thinking these issues might be related to the PSU, please let me know) I'm also a bit concerned with having a hot PSU sitting right next to the simms. (which I just replaced) I have other items I would like to acquire first, but if a new PSU is needed, I'll move it to the top of the list. I'd just hate to spend the money on the PSU only to find that that's just how hot they run, and that my other problems are elsewhere. Thanks in advance for the advice
  14. Hello everyone, I've got a quick question... My Colecovision doesn't turn on, that is to say when I flip the power switch I get no picture on my TV. I've replaced the power switch already with a Radio Shack DPDT Rocker - 275 691. I've checked continuity with my meter as well as voltage. When I check the PSU with the system in "Off" I get all the correct voltages 12v, 5v and -5v but when I turn the switch on the 12v rail drops to 6v. I checked voltages on the back of the plug receptacle and at the board where the switch is connected. A 6v drop seems to be a bit excessive... So, where do I go from here? Do I crack open the PSU or could there be an issue on the board? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dave
  15. It seems that Atari PSUs are subject to the same issues that some Commodore PSUs are - namely that the voltage they put out can increase with age and damage the motherboard. Is anybody aware of either a supplier of new XL/XE compatible PSUs or at least a protection device similar to what is available for the C64? http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61438&sid=4a02722ad35fd97044b2a8fbbf4bdb82 Any info would be very welcome as one of my PSUs failed and took a perfectly good 800XL with it
  16. so i have been thinking about this and was looking as one does, and i came across this on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-5V-1A-1000mA-Power-Supply-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Small-Size-/191879043673?hash=item2cace1da59:g:tpUAAOSweW5VeVqx I did try and do something similar with a hefty heatsink and a load of voltage regulators and capacitors once but I got some image distortion during my tests so abandoned that idea, what I want to know if anyone can help is would this deliver power clean enough to run a Colecovision without any image distortion it maybe worth getting one just to try at that price but wanted to see what others thought first
  17. OK, so I have my pico psu. Couple of questions for those that have done this replacement. 1. How did you "stick it down" to the plastic shield on the ps base? Did you glue the shield to the base? 2. Mine has the ATX 24pin header, but I also see the pico has another header to output for peripherals, HD power, floppy power, etc.. Why not just run power on(green) to ground - and then run the ST off the peripheral header? it is smaller, lighter, cleaner? I notice all installs use the atx header and solder a bundle of wires (+5 v and Grounds) to the small 6pin MB header of the ST?? 3. I was going to cut into the Power line coming into the pico and wire the power_on to ground.. this way I am turning the entire pico on and off rather than it be powered on and then just soft start the ST. Did anyone else do it this way? James
  18. Hi all, Does anyone have a used but known working STFM PSU they can sell me? I know Best sells them for around $75, but the machine itself was listed as un-tested so I don't want to spend that much money on something that may end up being pointless.... I'm in the USA and can pay immediately...... hope someone out there can help! Thanks!!!
  19. Hi, I have an Atari 800XLF which works fine apart from cutting out after a few minutes then will work again if i leave it for about 10 minutes and switch it back on. My powerpack is an original CO 61763-34 - i suspect this may be the problem. Currently is has a 13AMP Plug with a 5 AMP fuse (It is a UK model and I live in the UK). Has anyone had a similar experience or can help? I have seen replacement DC supplies on ebay and the like is it worth me replacing it? Scott
  20. INTRODUCTION: Not everyone knows that ALL of the Power Supplies built back in the day - including original ones - were unregulated AC/DC Adapters. Which means that the outputted voltage was not stabilized. As a result the poor Atari 2600 was continuously feeded with a voltage fluctuating between 9.8 and 10.40V. Not only - The provided current was spikey and badly filtered, which stressed the console causing heat issues thus premature failures. No wonder that, back in the day, most of the issues on both Consoles and Home Computers were caused by ICs dying after power pack failure. DESCRIPTION: The Deluxe Atari 2600 Power Supply is an efficient item which delivers a current which is not only stable but also clean and properly filtered. Furthermore, being it tiny and lightweight, shipping is obviously much cheaper than a heavy, 30 years old, obsolete Atari 2600 AC/DC Adapter. The Atari 2600 Deluxe Power Supply adds longevity and relief to your console. SPECIFICATIONS: • 9VDC@500mA • OVP (OverVoltage Protection) • Highly Filtered S.M.P.S. (Switching Module Power Supply) • 100~240V (Worldwide Usage) PICTURE: PRICE: €18,80 SHIPPING: €6,80 (EU); €8,80 (United States, Canada & Australia)
  21. Hi everyone, I need some assistance / advice in obtaining a power supply in some form or another for my recently purchased 130XE, which I'd had shipped from the US to the UK. I'd ordered a PSU with the 130XE, which after it was finally delivered turned out to be completely useless and the wrong one. I'm now considering taking it up with Paypal as a dispute, so I won't go into the detail behind the order. So, on the day of the delivery I sourced a supplier on eBay UK and paid for a compatible PSU to be shipped to me, which after getting back from holiday, was two weeks from when the 130XE arrived. Unfortunately this one was also dead - checking the pin outs, there is no +5V from the PSU. After contacting the supplier, they said they would send one FOC - which after a week still hasn't arrived. I'm having absolutely no luck in trying to get set up with my 130XE - sourcing a power supply is proving to be particularly difficult here in the UK. Does anyone have any advice on two solutions I'm considering:- 1) They know of a (reliable!) supplier / someone that is willing to supply a UK 3-pin 220V 130XE power supply and it can be delivered in about a week? 2) Know how of a DIY solution that would allow me to convert a PSU with compatible output current / voltage for use with a 130XE? I can solder so making up a cable poses no issue for me, I do want to make sure that I get the correct wiring diagram though. Thanks for anyone that can advise. Steve
  22. So.... I accidentally powered on my 800 with my 11.5v, 5200 ps, Quickly realizing my mistake I found the correct adapter and when I powered it on, nothing. I re-seated my ROM/RAM cards and now the text on the computer looks like this... What did I hose? Is there a util I can use to diagnose the problem?
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