Ricky Spanish Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 On 6/21/2022 at 11:49 AM, nitrohepcat said: What glue do folks use 3M spray-on adhesive works great. Just don't get carried away, very light coat is all you need. Let it tack up before handling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitrohepcat Posted August 5, 2022 Share Posted August 5, 2022 Spray on dishwashing soap has worked really well in my 130XE restoration. Dawn Powerwash is the brand. No scrubbing needed, just spray on, let it sit, wipe with a sponge then rinse off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atari-dna Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 Simple Method to Defeat Obnoxious Tape Residue on Cartridges I've had great success with this simple technique and wanted to share my results. Recently I acquired a basketball cartridge in an eBay lot, and it had the dreaded masking tape residue on the main label (and some on the edge of the cartridge as well). You all know what I'm talking about, that awful film that is basically dust that clings to the surface like grim death. Usually, you'll do more damage to the label or the surface you're trying to rescue than the tape you're trying to liberate it from. Well, there is a proven and inexpensive solution. Baby Oil (or plain mineral oil). Simply saturate the remaining tape with a cotton bud, then wait. I let the cart sit overnight. The oil won't evaporate or run (a thin, thorough layer anyway). Over time it will penetrate the remaining tape and then you're in business. The next step, I gently rub the oil a bit with my finger then use a small piece of magic eraser (wet) to help lift the remaining crud. Very gently, and with patience, you'll get it all. The mineral oil (baby oil) won't harm carts or labels, and with a slightly damp rag and a drop of dish soap you can remove the remaining oil completely off the surface. The obnoxious glue residue has been banished. With minimal effort and expense. This technique has been validated several times, and I have never had an issue with it. Hope it helps out some other collectors. Below, are my results. Jeff Before: After: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 magic eraser I avoid like the plague. oils have merit though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mclaneinc Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 18 hours ago, atari-dna said: Simple Method to Defeat Obnoxious Tape Residue on Cartridges I've had great success with this simple technique and wanted to share my results. Recently I acquired a basketball cartridge in an eBay lot, and it had the dreaded masking tape residue on the main label (and some on the edge of the cartridge as well). You all know what I'm talking about, that awful film that is basically dust that clings to the surface like grim death. Usually, you'll do more damage to the label or the surface you're trying to rescue than the tape you're trying to liberate it from. Well, there is a proven and inexpensive solution. Baby Oil (or plain mineral oil). Simply saturate the remaining tape with a cotton bud, then wait. I let the cart sit overnight. The oil won't evaporate or run (a thin, thorough layer anyway). Over time it will penetrate the remaining tape and then you're in business. The next step, I gently rub the oil a bit with my finger then use a small piece of magic eraser (wet) to help lift the remaining crud. Very gently, and with patience, you'll get it all. The mineral oil (baby oil) won't harm carts or labels, and with a slightly damp rag and a drop of dish soap you can remove the remaining oil completely off the surface. The obnoxious glue residue has been banished. With minimal effort and expense. This technique has been validated several times, and I have never had an issue with it. Hope it helps out some other collectors. Below, are my results. Jeff Before: After: It's loads better ,but you can clearly still see where the label was, a touch of isopropyl (test small area first) should remove that outline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 WD-40 does the trick without hurting what's underneath the adhesive. However you will have to put up with the odor which lasts for a while, but will fade over time. This video shows how it works on sun baked double-sided tape residue, which looks similar to what the OP had on his cart, and is usually very difficult to remove. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted December 24, 2023 Share Posted December 24, 2023 (edited) I've been fixing, refurbishing and restoring vintage electronics for years and one of my go-to products for fixing broken plastic (mainly cases for consoles, computers and peripherals) has been JB weld. I still stand by it, but it does take a long curing time. But I found a Youtube video with an alternative that will cure in a very short time. The products used are super glue and cement powder (apparently Baking Soda works too). Below is the link to the video. Skip ahead to 4:20 to see the most relevant part for plastic cases. I have not tried it myself yet, but I intend to soon. The technique seen in the video for the repair is the same technique I use with JB Weld too. Edited December 24, 2023 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustyCity Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 I already made a really long post about it, but here's the grocery list for what I used for this before and after: Acetone to fuse broken pieces of plastic together - don't use nailpolish remover, as it has other junk in it that makes it less effective for the job Loctite Glass Glue for pieces that wouldn't weld with acetone JB Weld KwikWeld for the underside of the case, anywhere a repair was made JB Weld PlasticWeld putty to rebuild standoffs and other structural bits 120 and 220 grit sandpaper for obvious purposes Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer: Filler & Sandable - gives the paint something to stick to and helps fill in gaps from repairs Rust-Oleum Universal Advanced Formula Pearl Metallic Paint & Primer (Sea Mist)- do at least 6 light coats, 3 minutes apart and don't touch it again for 24 hours. I did my spraying in my garage, with the doors open, on cardboard, with a box fan blowing over them as each coat dried. I did this to keep dust and bugs from landing on the thing, which was a problem I ran into, when trying to do this outside Rust-Oleum Universal Advanced Formula Clear Top Coat - do light coats (however many for whatever finish you're seeking) 5 minutes apart. Use the fan for the first few hours after the last coat. Wait 72 hours before touching, if you can. I found that this continued to cure for at least a couple of days (even though the can indicates 24 hours) Printable Vinyl Sticker Paper: Matte Finish I had to make a lot of guesses during the restoration, and I hadn't seen any examples of such extensive casework to know if my attempts would even work. I hope this helps someone in the future! 43221835.avif 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Great to see a machine in that condition saved. Well done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandit Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 13 hours ago, DustyCity said: Acetone to fuse broken pieces of plastic together - don't use nailpolish remover, as it has other junk in it that makes it less effective for the job Loctite Glass Glue for pieces that wouldn't weld with acetone JB Weld KwikWeld for the underside of the case, anywhere a repair was made JB Weld PlasticWeld putty to rebuild standoffs and other structural bits 120 and 220 grit sandpaper for obvious purposes Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer: Filler & Sandable - gives the paint something to stick to and helps fill in gaps from repairs Rust-Oleum Universal Advanced Formula Pearl Metallic Paint & Primer (Sea Mist)- do at least 6 light coats, 3 minutes apart and don't touch it again for 24 hours. I did my spraying in my garage, with the doors open, on cardboard, with a box fan blowing over them as each coat dried. I did this to keep dust and bugs from landing on the thing, which was a problem I ran into, when trying to do this outside Rust-Oleum Universal Advanced Formula Clear Top Coat - do light coats (however many for whatever finish you're seeking) 5 minutes apart. Use the fan for the first few hours after the last coat. Wait 72 hours before touching, if you can. I found that this continued to cure for at least a couple of days (even though the can indicates 24 hours) Printable Vinyl Sticker Paper: Matte Finish I had to make a lot of guesses during the restoration, and I hadn't seen any examples of such extensive casework to know if my attempts would even work. I hope this helps someone in the future! 43221835.avif 16.71 kB · 0 downloads I read your other post, Still looks like an 800 !! Good job 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepthaw Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 On 1/10/2024 at 5:54 PM, DustyCity said: I already made a really long post about it, but here's the grocery list for what I used for this before and after: Acetone to fuse broken pieces of plastic together - don't use nailpolish remover, as it has other junk in it that makes it less effective for the job Loctite Glass Glue for pieces that wouldn't weld with acetone JB Weld KwikWeld for the underside of the case, anywhere a repair was made JB Weld PlasticWeld putty to rebuild standoffs and other structural bits 120 and 220 grit sandpaper for obvious purposes Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer: Filler & Sandable - gives the paint something to stick to and helps fill in gaps from repairs Rust-Oleum Universal Advanced Formula Pearl Metallic Paint & Primer (Sea Mist)- do at least 6 light coats, 3 minutes apart and don't touch it again for 24 hours. I did my spraying in my garage, with the doors open, on cardboard, with a box fan blowing over them as each coat dried. I did this to keep dust and bugs from landing on the thing, which was a problem I ran into, when trying to do this outside Rust-Oleum Universal Advanced Formula Clear Top Coat - do light coats (however many for whatever finish you're seeking) 5 minutes apart. Use the fan for the first few hours after the last coat. Wait 72 hours before touching, if you can. I found that this continued to cure for at least a couple of days (even though the can indicates 24 hours) Printable Vinyl Sticker Paper: Matte Finish I had to make a lot of guesses during the restoration, and I hadn't seen any examples of such extensive casework to know if my attempts would even work. I hope this helps someone in the future! 43221835.avif 16.71 kB · 9 downloads Are we allowed to say “holy shit” around here? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amidarman Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 On 3/17/2024 at 3:58 PM, deepthaw said: Are we allowed to say “holy shit” around here? DIRT MOUTH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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