Nintendo Gamboy Pocket Color Back-Light Mod Project

[Mark Wolfe]

Greetings, a few of us were knocking around the idea of making a backlit Gameboy Color. Similar to the "Gameboy Light" that was only released in Japan.

 

the thread where we started to discuss it is here:

 

http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138351

 

there has been talk of getting some LEDs, talk of modding existing screens from broken SPs, using an old Afterburner kit, but I think the main thrust should be something that can be repeated and done like a "kit" that anyone can do with off the shelf parts and a gameboy pocket color.

if you're like me, the SP and GBA just don't quite do it for that real gameboy experience so we HAVE to use a Gameboy color as the mod target.

 

anyone who has any ideas, please respond and maybe we can get a project going here

 

I guess an easy question is, if a kit were made, how many would want one? show of hands please

Edited February 20, 2009 by Mark_Wolfe

[nathanallan]

I would be interested, and my demand depends on the price of the kit. Just say MOD and I'll be interested.

 

As far as lighting the screen, there's LightPipe. A bit expensive but it does a really great job of dispersing LED lights evenly when done properly.

 

Nathan

[Mark Wolfe]

yeah, price is a concern and I would like to see it remain cheap. I was told LEDs were pennies on the dollar, like a dozen for a coupla bucks. considering the size of the screen, I doubt you would need more than 8 to do the job.

 

in the other thread there is a youtube vid of a guy doing a mod using what seems to be a trashed SP and I have heard rumors of a kit that was avail. in Japan only to do exactly this and it was reportedly inexpensive.

 

I'd like to see this be as cheap as possible without being "cheapo"

[shadow460]

Got a link for Light Pipe? Are you thinking of the 3M stuff like is used in the National Air&Space museum?

Edited February 21, 2009 by shadow460

[nathanallan]

Not sure about your question, but the kind of lightpipe is HERE that I am looking at. As far as the GBC screen, this would be a bit of overkill, and for something like this, you can sandwich two cut pieces of plexiglass with the mirror surfaces facing each other to simulate the same thing (again, for GBC it will work).

 

I learned this while researching a separate project, and it came up.

 

As far as this, I am thinking three LEDs on each side of the screen, spread out by the LP. The surfaces can be shaped to do this. Or maybe two, though the pipe gets bigger (so three each side would do a better job and keep it smaller).

 

See picture to get a rough idea of what I mean.

[Mark Wolfe]

interesting idea. how much do these things go for? how would they be wired in, would it require a small circuit board or can they be wired up directly to the power supply? and speaking of power supply, how hard would it be to swap out the AA batteries for the same rechargeable battery the SP uses? of course then we'd need a mini usb port to recharge it, but that can most likely be rigged into the same spot as the external DC input that is already there

 

edit: I wonder what the difference in power drain would be between 4 lights vs 6 lights? if 6 might be overkill, perhaps 4 will do, but ultimately the battery life must be considered before the decision is made.

Edited February 22, 2009 by Mark_Wolfe

[shadow460]

IIRC, 5VDC is available at a point right under the screen. You'd have to use very fine wire to hook up the LEDs, then attach them to the board somehow. The light pipe could be placed right on top of them with cutouts where the LEDs can fit into it. It would have to be very thin, though. There isn't much room under that screen. YOu've got maybe the thickness of a credit card, and I think the CPU sits under the screen as well. That may be on the other side of the board, though.

Nathan's idea looks more like a front light. It would negate the need to lift the screen at all, however it might result in the middle of the screen being dimmer than the rest. I can see where it would all sit on either side of the screen, though.

Edited February 22, 2009 by shadow460

[Mark Wolfe]

would it be worth anything towards this discussion if I took apart a pocket color and snapped some detailed hi rez photos? additionally, are there any easy tests or measurements that can be made to answer questions regarding placement et al?

[shadow460]

Not sure about the measurements. A feeler gauge might tell you how thick of material could be used. I've got a Color that's been opened before and has #1 Phillips screws holding it shut. It's atmoic purple, so I can look right through the case. The screen really is pressed right down to the board. If the CPU is under it on the top side, there has to be a cutout. I think the CPU is on the bottom side of the board and out of our way.

It's too late to rip down a console right now, otherwise I'd do it.

[Mark Wolfe]

The one I have here has been taken apart before as well, no worries. I have a very good camera, an Olympus Digital SLR, for high rez photos if needed

[Video]

Id buy a kit,providing it's relatively cheap (in relation to how much I'd spend to make a similar thing or ease of doing it)

 

How about a Flatlight? Its not a florecent tube, but rather a thin flexable piece of plastic that lights up when electrified? Easy to cut to size, flex, and it starts out withe so it could be it's own bakcground for being in a well lit room. Only problem, if I remember right, I think it runs on something like 9 volts (however, that may be dependant on how big of piece you need, the few inches for a gameboy screen isn't much)

[Mark Wolfe]

Id buy a kit,providing it's relatively cheap (in relation to how much I'd spend to make a similar thing or ease of doing it)

 

How about a Flatlight? Its not a florecent tube, but rather a thin flexable piece of plastic that lights up when electrified? Easy to cut to size, flex, and it starts out withe so it could be it's own bakcground for being in a well lit room. Only problem, if I remember right, I think it runs on something like 9 volts (however, that may be dependant on how big of piece you need, the few inches for a gameboy screen isn't much)

 

 

do you have any links to that? when I googled "flatlight", the only thing that came close was this:

 

http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_thin_lighting_front/

 

that does not look like what you described, I don't think you can cut this stuff

[Atariman]

Id buy a kit,providing it's relatively cheap (in relation to how much I'd spend to make a similar thing or ease of doing it)

 

How about a Flatlight? Its not a florecent tube, but rather a thin flexable piece of plastic that lights up when electrified? Easy to cut to size, flex, and it starts out withe so it could be it's own bakcground for being in a well lit room. Only problem, if I remember right, I think it runs on something like 9 volts (however, that may be dependant on how big of piece you need, the few inches for a gameboy screen isn't much)

 

 

do you have any links to that? when I googled "flatlight", the only thing that came close was this:

 

http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_thin_lighting_front/

 

that does not look like what you described, I don't think you can cut this stuff

 

Probably talking about this: http://www.e-lite.com/electroluminescent.htm

 

I don't remember why I was looking into this stuff in the past, but judging by the name it's probably the same stuff.

Edited February 25, 2009 by Atariman

[Mark Wolfe]

Id buy a kit,providing it's relatively cheap (in relation to how much I'd spend to make a similar thing or ease of doing it)

 

How about a Flatlight? Its not a florecent tube, but rather a thin flexable piece of plastic that lights up when electrified? Easy to cut to size, flex, and it starts out withe so it could be it's own bakcground for being in a well lit room. Only problem, if I remember right, I think it runs on something like 9 volts (however, that may be dependant on how big of piece you need, the few inches for a gameboy screen isn't much)

 

 

do you have any links to that? when I googled "flatlight", the only thing that came close was this:

 

http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_thin_lighting_front/

 

that does not look like what you described, I don't think you can cut this stuff

 

Probably talking about this: http://www.e-lite.com/electroluminescent.htm

 

I don't remember why I was looking into this stuff in the past, but judging by the name it's probably the same stuff.

 

 

wow, that stuff is cool!!!! that might work, provided the "glowiness" is not too intrusive. I think I might order some of this stuff and test it out. thanks guys

[shadow460]

That's what I call Indi-Glo, and it's exactly what I'd had in mind.

[Mark Wolfe]

That's what I call Indi-Glo, and it's exactly what I'd had in mind.

 

 

it is not easy to get. I downloaded their order form. I'll order some every soon. I need to contact them and find out if there is another way to pay other than sending them a written copy of my credit card info,like a check for instance.

[RangerG]

isn't indiglo what Nintendo used in the original Gameboy Light (Japan only)? This is a project I am interested in - keep us posted

[Mark Wolfe]

isn't indiglo what Nintendo used in the original Gameboy Light (Japan only)? This is a project I am interested in - keep us posted

 

 

you know that is possible, I have a Gameboy Light and it does have a certain iridescent quality to it. that may very well be.

[shadow460]

I'd honestly bet the original has a DC to AC inverter in it that runs the backlight. If that's the case, that's where the primary power drain would be. The Game Gear has an inverter that kicks out 35 volts to the cart slot (for what who knows) and whatever is needed to kick start the fluorescent tube. I believe the Lynx and the Turbo Express have them as well.

 

According to wikipedia, several types of electroluminescent (read: FlatLight, Indiglo, etc.) require a relatively high voltage to run them. According to the site above, the FlatLite requires at least 9 volts to run.

 

The FlatLight may fit under the screen, but then you have to find a spot for the inverter and another circuit called a cascade multiplier. I'm not up to speed on inverters, but I do know the cascade multiplier would have to have four stages to go from 2.5 volts to 10 volts, then something else to regulate it back to 9 volts, or three stages to go from 3 volt alkaline cells to 9 volts (and in that case as soon as the cells start to die even a little, the light goes out). If not for those, you'd have to re think the batteries a little, and that would require a charging circuit. Unlike the inverter and multiplier, though, that charger could be housed in the power brick.

[Mark Wolfe]

I'd honestly bet the original has a DC to AC inverter in it that runs the backlight. If that's the case, that's where the primary power drain would be. The Game Gear has an inverter that kicks out 35 volts to the cart slot (for what who knows) and whatever is needed to kick start the fluorescent tube. I believe the Lynx and the Turbo Express have them as well.

 

According to wikipedia, several types of electroluminescent (read: FlatLight, Indiglo, etc.) require a relatively high voltage to run them. According to the site above, the FlatLite requires at least 9 volts to run.

 

The FlatLight may fit under the screen, but then you have to find a spot for the inverter and another circuit called a cascade multiplier. I'm not up to speed on inverters, but I do know the cascade multiplier would have to have four stages to go from 2.5 volts to 10 volts, then something else to regulate it back to 9 volts, or three stages to go from 3 volt alkaline cells to 9 volts (and in that case as soon as the cells start to die even a little, the light goes out). If not for those, you'd have to re think the batteries a little, and that would require a charging circuit. Unlike the inverter and multiplier, though, that charger could be housed in the power brick.

 

 

This is why I want to get some to test it out because the smaller the piece of flatlight, the less power it requires. I want to see if I can power small strips of it with a couple of AA batteries, which is what the gameboy pocket uses. ultimately I'd like to see a gameboy SP battery in lieu of AA batteries, but that is secondary.

 

I think it is entirely possible that a few small strips of the stuff will run on low power. Their site says that it is used in cell phones and other small devices that require backlight so I think this may work and if not, I'm only out a few dollars.

 

I'm not sure a converter is needed because they sell a 8xAA battery pack to run the sample they send you if you order it and it seems to just be a standard battery pack.

 

I sent them an e-mail and hope to hear back soon. I plan to order about $20 worth of the stuff to test with. I'm also looking to buy a dead SP for the battery compartment and to take apart the backlight to see what makes it tick.

[Mark Wolfe]

So I have been talking with a tech guy at e-light.com. he says that small portions of the flatlight could work with AA batteries but you'd only get about 6-8hrs of use out of it which would make having a rechargeable battery a necessity.

 

The guy mentioned some other material, has anyone heard of: "Parallel Plate or screen printed" ??? anyone know what that is? the tech guy said e-lite manufactures it and that i should look for it but he did not say where. I am waiting on a response but i have no idea if I am pissing the guy off with so many newbie questions.

[RangerG]

This article talks about it being indiglo:

 

http://www.retrothing.com/2008/08/game-boy-light.html

 

I don't know if the article mentions it, but the indiglo eventually burns out I believe.

[Mark Wolfe]

This article talks about it being indiglo:

 

http://www.retrothing.com/2008/08/game-boy-light.html

 

I don't know if the article mentions it, but the indiglo eventually burns out I believe.

 

 

great article, thanks for posting that.

[Mark Wolfe]

this article has a mistake in it:

 

"The Indiglo worked remarkably well with the Light's upgraded power supply - two AA's instead of the Pocket's pair of AAA's."

 

The pocket has 2 AAs in it, I'm looking at it right now. in fact, side by side, the pocket and the "light" are pretty much the same except the battery cover is scalloped in the shape of the batteries in it and the pocket is curved

Edited February 28, 2009 by Mark_Wolfe

[shadow460]

I'd say go with the screen printed light over the parallel plate if that's what you're thinking of. Then again, this is all new to me. Hasn't the screen printed stuff been around longer?

 

Run time doesn't make much difference really. As long as you can get four to six hours from it, that's long enough to charge the spare set of batteries.