Radio Shack soldering irons! :mad:

[shadow460]

Why is it, I wonder, that my last RS iron lasted my about six good months, then just up and quit? I'd say the tip is hitting maybe 140 degrees tops. Well, was. I tried sanding it down some to get the gunk off of it since we don't have running water in our shop. Normally I use a damp rag to clean the tips. I tried a new tip, but that wouldn't heat, either.

 

I've got rosin core wire, I think it's like 60/40 or something.

 

The desoldering tool works great, but the 15 watt iron just doesn't cut it after a few uses. What gives?

[Bryan]

If you do any soldering on a regular basis, it's worth investing in a decent soldering station. They get hot in a matter of seconds and the tips last much longer.

[Chickybaby]

Dunno, that's what I have for my backup. They don't sell what I am using now and I've checked 3 stores with no luck around here so I dread if it goes. It's one of those pencil type irons I got for a gift and it fits my hand perfect.

 

Old thread but funny as heck and has ideas - http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4694.0

[potatohead]

I've ran through a few too. Just another victim of products engineered to provide the best margin, not best value...

 

Funny, I'm now using what appears to be a really old pencil type iron made in the 70's. Got it at a thrift for a buck. Love it!

 

It's getting time for a solder station for sure. As I've ramped up the number of electronics projects I'm doing, I'm finding it a PITA to deal with the warm up and cool down times. I get an hour here, hour there, and the iron cycle eats 20 minutes!

 

I try to debug code in that time, but still...

[+batari]

RS has a temp-controlled digital solder station for about $70. It takes Hakko tips so there will never be a supply problem.

 

I don't know if this is a good price but it was all I could get without waiting for delivery and paying shipping.

 

Before I bought the solder station, I used an old Weller iron for 15 years and it still works, but the tip is rusted on and needs replacement.

[+selgus]

I use a Weller WESD51 soldering station, and highly recommend it. I can't remember, but I think I got it at Mouser.

--Selgus

[EricDeLee]

I need to grab a better soldering iron as well. The points on the FB2 are tiny compared to simply soldering on an Atari 2600.

Plus... I think I need to find some GOOD solder. The last batch I bought simply sucks. I have no clue what it was, but it just doesn't work well.

[+batari]

I need to grab a better soldering iron as well. The points on the FB2 are tiny compared to simply soldering on an Atari 2600.

Plus... I think I need to find some GOOD solder. The last batch I bought simply sucks. I have no clue what it was, but it just doesn't work well.

I use RS silver bearing solder for everything. I use the thinnest they make (0.015" I think?) and use it on everything.

[Atari Dogs]

I had a Radio Shack iron that died, then I bought a super cheap iron at Walmart. That one makes the Radio Shack look good. Definitely, use good solder.

 

Here's a topic, before you guys bought your solder station, where have you burned yourself with the iron? My best place is on the cheek. I tried the iron handle in my mouth, while I got the wire in the re-positioned. The tip was a little closer to my face than I though.

[MaximRecoil]

I worked in a PCB factory for two years soldering and inspecting boards; about 1,000 a night. This is what we used:

 

Iron: Metcal MX-500 and STSS stations. Metcals are in their own league. You can't do better no matter how much you spend. They cost several hundred dollars new, but I got a used one including the handpiece, stand, and a tip for under $40 shipped on eBay a few years ago. For some detailed information about Metcals, see this thread (reply #5 has information specifically for people looking to buy a Metcal).

 

Solder: Alphametals 63/37 "no clean" flux-core solder in .025" diameter for most jobs, .015" diameter for fine-pitch soldering. Kester is also a good brand. 63/37 solder is intended for soldering on PCBs as it has a lower melting point than 60/40 which is for more general purpose electrical soldering (you definitely don't want to use 50/50).

 

Desoldering tool (AKA: "solder sucker): A full size Edsyn Soldapullt. We used the DS017 (about $20), along with the "ESD safe" variants (DS017LS, and AS196) interchangeably. Beware of cheap solder suckers like you may find at Radio Shack or wherever. They are not worth it. Edsyn Soldapullt = the real thing. Also, proper use is important with a solder sucker, else you could lift a pad.

[doubledown]

I've been using a 15W Hakko pencil style soldering iron for about 7 years now. With this 1 iron, I've refurbished/repaired/modded over 100 consoles, more than 200 controllers, and assembled more than 50 cartridges. I think I got it from Mouser for about $20-$25 and I've never had an issue with it. Hell, I've even left the iron on over night on more than one occasion, and it still works like a champ. I would say that about 95% of hobbyist type people under no circumstance would ever need a multi-hundred/thousand dollar soldering station. Just get a Hakko pencil style iron and you'll be fine. And I can't believe that anybody in the world, in 2009, would still be using a damp rag or damp sponge to clean their tips, it absolutely boggles my mind. Especially if you want to solder more than one point every 2 minutes.

[MaximRecoil]

I've been using a 15W Hakko pencil style soldering iron for about 7 years now. With this 1 iron, I've refurbished/repaired/modded over 100 consoles, more than 200 controllers, and assembled more than 50 cartridges. I think I got it from Mouser for about $20-$25 and I've never had an issue with it. Hell, I've even left the iron on over night on more than one occasion, and it still works like a champ.

 

Just as a reference point, I've soldered about 250,000 boards. These were not gaming boards; they were boards for commercial fire alarm systems (we built the fire alarm systems for Disney World for example) and were categorized as "life saving equipment", meaning there was additional mandated red tape that had to be complied with in the area of quality control.

 

I would say that about 95% of hobbyist type people under no circumstance would ever need a multi-hundred/thousand dollar soldering station.

 

Used Metcals can be had for under $100 quite often on eBay. I got mine for under $40 shipped.

 

Just get a Hakko pencil style iron and you'll be fine. And I can't believe that anybody in the world, in 2009, would still be using a damp rag or damp sponge to clean their tips, it absolutely boggles my mind. Especially if you want to solder more than one point every 2 minutes.

 

You are obviously unfamiliar with Metcals. They have the fastest recovery time of anything out there. They heat from dead cold to operating temperature in 7 seconds. This is why they are so popular for assembly lines. For example, we spent less than 1 second per fillet (about 100 fillets every 90 seconds). You can not outrun a Metcal with normal PCB soldering; it is not humanly possible. Cleaning the tip with a damp sponge does not even put a dent in its tip temperature (it may cool it off for like 1/100th of a second before it is back to operating temperature). Here is a technical explanation of how Metcals work:

 

The clever thing about the design is the method of heating. The

"station" consist of high power rf generator enclosed in well shielded

case. The power is delivered to the tip via a coaxial cable. The tip

is so constructed that it absorbs the energy at the working end and

heats up until it reaches a curie point temperature at which it

becomes high impedance. This transition is very sharp, meaning that

the tip is always at the correct temperature. The response is

phenomenal. It will hit operating temperature in seven seconds and

3/32" tip can solder a penny to a copper clad circuit board without

overheating anything. I had it feed through a SWR meter and could see

the needle jump moment the tip touched the workpiece. The selection

of tips is large and replacement is easy as they just pull out of the

handle.

 

Boris Mohar

 

It is not a matter of a hobbyist "needing" a Metcal (you are right; they don't; I've soldered with a screw driver heated with a torch before); but rather a matter of; if you can get a used one (which, as long as it works at all, works like new given a new tip cartridge) for under a hundred dollars, or possibly under $50, why bother with anything else?

Edited August 20, 2009 by MaximRecoil

[EricDeLee]

I had a Radio Shack iron that died, then I bought a super cheap iron at Walmart. That one makes the Radio Shack look good. Definitely, use good solder.

 

Here's a topic, before you guys bought your solder station, where have you burned yourself with the iron? My best place is on the cheek. I tried the iron handle in my mouth, while I got the wire in the re-positioned. The tip was a little closer to my face than I though.

 

 

Elbow. That one really sucked too! It took forever to heal and was a pretty bad burn. That was me just being stupid and forgetting it was on. I have one that has a red light now. lol

[Chickybaby]

Tip Square against the side of my thumb along and on part of the nail. I didn't think layers of skin could disintegrate from a small soldering pen so fast, but they can.

That wasn't as bad as when I had preheated the oven to 475 and someone bumped me as I was adjusting the oven rack because I had forgotten beforehand. The potholder fell and the rack landed across the entire length of my hand across all my fingers and past my wrist. Now that was a brutal burn which was agonizing enough to distract me from wanting to beat the living crap out of the person who caused it.

I'm also glad I always keep prescription strength burn cream, high alcohol content liquor, and an Aloe plant as part of my first aid supplies.

[the.golden.ax]

I've had three RS irons in the past few years... simply no matter what model they are crap. The old days of RS being a good place for electronic tinkerers is long past. It's sad in this more heightened state of technology we haven't got tech stuff at our local fingertips when we need it. A good 75% of RS stores don't even sell basic electronic components anymore. There is a real need for someone to step up to the plate for at least basic parts/supplies on a local level.

 

AX

[brojamfootball]

I've had three RS irons in the past few years... simply no matter what model they are crap. The old days of RS being a good place for electronic tinkerers is long past. It's sad in this more heightened state of technology we haven't got tech stuff at our local fingertips when we need it. A good 75% of RS stores don't even sell basic electronic components anymore. There is a real need for someone to step up to the plate for at least basic parts/supplies on a local level.

 

AX

Agreed.

[Jess Ragan]

So I guess that'd be the "tech" in Milftech, eh? Huh, that's pretty cool. I find soldering pretty enjoyable myself... there's no greater power trip than turning lead into liquid with a single touch!

 

I've had a variety of soldering irons, some good while others not so much. I had a Weller which was especially impressive, but I could never find fresh bits for it so I was forced to turn to the dark side (Radio Shack) for a replacement.

[Bryan]

And I can't believe that anybody in the world, in 2009, would still be using a damp rag or damp sponge to clean their tips, it absolutely boggles my mind. Especially if you want to solder more than one point every 2 minutes.

Damp sponges are what most people use and they work fine with a fast-recovery station. It boggles my mind that people try to do any serious work with a low-power pencil.

[Almost Rice]

I still have my RS soldering iron from the early 80s. Its very hot. I just need a new tip for it. I believe mine was made in Taiwan. All the markings has rubbed off and my memory has too. I also have the desoldering iron with a bulb, but I dont use that.

[Video]

I always used the gun types, they just seem to be better built than the pencil type irons. Cleaning the tip with a damp sponge seems to work, but if you get dried on solder, I've had luck grinding it off with a sander.

[MaximRecoil]

And I can't believe that anybody in the world, in 2009, would still be using a damp rag or damp sponge to clean their tips, it absolutely boggles my mind. Especially if you want to solder more than one point every 2 minutes.

Damp sponges are what most people use and they work fine with a fast-recovery station. It boggles my mind that people try to do any serious work with a low-power pencil.

 

It would seem that he was basing his "Especially if you want to solder more than one point every 2 minutes" statement on personal experience with his own iron. If so, he pointed out the weakness of his own iron without anyone else having to do so. Also, any iron which takes two minutes to recover after cleaning the tip with a damp sponge is going to take a significant amount of time just to recover from the heat it dumps into the pad, component, and solder while soldering a single joint. It is odd that he would expect a commercial-grade soldering iron retailing for several hundred dollars to have the same deficiencies as his own 15-Watter.

 

Metcal's handpiece stands include a built-in tray in front for a sponge. They also sell sponges with a hole in the center sized to fit in that tray. The hole in the center is so you can clean the iron tip on the inner edge of the hole and the solder pieces will fall down into the tray rather than remain on top of the sponge getting in the way.

 

Cleaning the tip of the iron in this manner is standard practice on soldering assembly lines, and has been for ages. It doesn't even remotely slow anyone down; assuming they are using an iron that actually has some berries; as pretty much anyone on an assembly line is. A PCB factory doesn't skimp on its equipment, because it would end up costing them far more than they'd initially saved, in the form of lowered productivity.

Edited August 22, 2009 by MaximRecoil

[doubledown]

My point was simply this, people here were complaining about their cheap-o Radio Shack soldering irons failing, and I myself have an inexpensive Hakko pencil-iron that has served me well for about 7 years. I would personally assume that people here that are doing hobbyist type soldering, a few points tapped to a PCB, and potentially a few points on some a/v output jacks, do not need a professional soldering station to do the kind of work they are trying to do. There probably aren't many people here who have to solder 1000 points under 2 minutes to keep up with a production line. My iron, once turn on is at temp in about 2 minutes, and remains at temp no matter how many points I solder. I'm not trying to say that professional grade soldering stations aren't nice, just that they are completely necessary for what most people are doing. As mentioned, prehaps "cheap" irons suffer from tip cool down when a wet sponge is used, does not mean that you have to buy an expensive soldering station, or suffer through waiting for the tip to reheat in between soldering points. The industry makes and sells a brass tip cleaner, that requires no water, and will not cool the tip at all.

[MaximRecoil]

My point was simply this, people here were complaining about their cheap-o Radio Shack soldering irons failing, and I myself have an inexpensive Hakko pencil-iron that has served me well for about 7 years. I would personally assume that people here that are doing hobbyist type soldering, a few points tapped to a PCB, and potentially a few points on some a/v output jacks, do not need a professional soldering station to do the kind of work they are trying to do. There probably aren't many people here who have to solder 1000 points under 2 minutes to keep up with a production line. My iron, once turn on is at temp in about 2 minutes, and remains at temp no matter how many points I solder. I'm not trying to say that professional grade soldering stations aren't nice, just that they are completely necessary for what most people are doing. As mentioned, prehaps "cheap" irons suffer from tip cool down when a wet sponge is used, does not mean that you have to buy an expensive soldering station, or suffer through waiting for the tip to reheat in between soldering points. The industry makes and sells a brass tip cleaner, that requires no water, and will not cool the tip at all.

 

In any event, if you can get a good deal on a used Metcal then that's the way to go. In my case I didn't spend any more for it than a new hobbyist-grade station of average performance would have cost (take away shipping cost and it was even less money; about $25).

 

A Metcal makes soldering easier and more enjoyable than cheap irons. For one thing, it is ready to go in 7 seconds which is nice. With all that heating power on tap (yet still being tightly regulated at the correct temperature), you can use the same small and precise tip that you use for small joints on larger jobs (like soldering in a new flyback transformer on a CRT monitor with ease). You'll quickly see the limitations of a 15 Watt iron if you try that; especially with a small tip like you'd use for more typical PCB soldering.

 

Probably my favorite aspect of the Metcal is the ergonomics of the handpiece and the short grip-to-tip distance. This allows more comfort and better control when you are soldering. Here is a comparison picture showing the Metcal RM3E handpiece next to a more conventional soldering iron:

 

 

You can demonstrate to yourself the difference in the level of control that a short grip-to-tip distance makes by trying to sign your name with neat penmanship (neat penmanship indicates a high level of control over the pen's tip) while gripping the pen in the middle (if you can wrap a bunch of tape around the pen to make it as fat as a typical soldering iron grip, that will demonstrate it even better). It is a lot easier when gripping down near the tip of course; and the same principle applies to a soldering iron. So you're right; it is unlikely that anyone here needs to keep up with an assembly line; but high levels of comfort, control, and versatility are things that anyone can appreciate.

 

Another quote from an electronics newsgroup:

 

I couldn't agree more. Metcal irons are miraculous. If you haven't tried

one, you haven't been enjoying soldering. It took me months to talk my

new employer into trying one. In less time than that, we now have them all

over the company. One assembler called it a 'dream iron'. Yes, they're

*that* good. Those of you who work with your soldering station switched on

most or all of the day really owe it to yourselves to try one. They're

expensive, but well worth the money if you solder a good deal. For fine

pitch work, they're not merely a luxury -- once you try one you'll be hooked.

Edited August 22, 2009 by MaximRecoil

[Bryan]

By the way, Metcal's are awesome. I used them at my last job.

 

Right now I use a Hakko 936 which is about $80 new.

[Jess Ragan]

That is kind of a nifty design, and I can see how that would work better than a conventional iron.

 

Anyone ever try those "cold" soldering irons? A portable iron that heats up and cools down quickly seems like a good idea in theory, but I've heard they're absolutely awful in practice.