Radio Shack soldering irons! :mad:

[MaximRecoil]

That is kind of a nifty design, and I can see how that would work better than a conventional iron.

 

Yeah, the technology Metcal uses is patented (in 1986). Since there is no bulky conventional heating element like in a typical soldering iron, the handpiece can be made slim and ergonomic, and the tip can be close to the grip. Normally such a design would seem to indicate a weak iron, because it would have to use a small heating element, but this doesn't apply to a Metcal. The main unit is simply a powerful RF generator, and it transmits RF along coaxial cable to the tip cartridge, which gets it to operating temperature in a matter of seconds (which = phenomenal recovery time).

 

Anyone ever try those "cold" soldering irons? A portable iron that heats up and cools down quickly seems like a good idea in theory, but I've heard they're absolutely awful in practice.

 

First of all, the tips are bulky and brittle, and the two halves of the tip have to be electrically shorted for the thing to work; which means you have to fiddle with how you are positioning it; which results in inconsistent quality of the joints (a deal breaker for me). This paragraph sums it up rather well:

 

In practice, sometimes the solder would melt immediately because a good contact had been made first time across the tips. Frequently, though, it was necessary to jiggle the Coldheat bit around to make the short-circuit, and prod and poke the solder onto the tip using trial and error before the solder melted properly. For the novice, the temptation will be to press the tip down harder onto the joint, in order to make a better circuit and start the heating process. This condition may damage the fragile tip, which Coldheat warns users to avoid.

 

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/cold-soldering2.htm

 

Also, it works by passing an electrical current from one half of its split tip to the other; and through the joint to be soldered in the process (the high impedance of the tip results in fast heat). This is a bad idea for soldering delicate circuits and components on a PCB. If you want to solder jewelry with it or whatever, then fine, but a PCB? Metcals for example, are designed to be ESD safe (electrostatic discharge) because even low levels of ESD that can not be seen or felt can damage delicate electronics; and the Coldheat thing actually generates an electrical current at the tip by design.

Edited August 24, 2009 by MaximRecoil

[Bryan]

I got a Coldheat iron one year as a Christmas gift, and the tip broke the first time I tried to use it.

[Pi-Rat]

I've had great luck and use with my walmart soldering iron (finally had to replace my father's hand-me-down RS iron from 1981 that had a really bad fray in the cord). Mine is a Lenk pencil type. Heats up and cools down fast. No recovery time needed from cleaning with a damp or accidentally-sopping-wet sponge. Have had a little bit of a problem in it burning out really fine tips as it has no temp controls. No charge from the tip. Just make sure you use some sort of heatsink when working with transistors or anything else sensitive.

 

As for my most interesting soldering iron burn - my bewbies. My sister came in my room to borrow a book and I didn't hear her, so when I heard the bookshelf thud, I jumped, and dripped hot solder down myself. I now make sure I wear a shirt any time I solder.

[+poobah]

As for my most interesting soldering iron burn - my bewbies. My sister came in my room to borrow a book and I didn't hear her, so when I heard the bookshelf thud, I jumped, and dripped hot solder down myself. I now make sure I wear a shirt any time I solder.

 

Nice. I was soldering something on my brother's handheld pacman game when we were 13 or so years old. I handed him the soldering iron (pencil iron) while i rearranged some wires or something. I was looking down at the piece to be soldered, and said "ok, give me the iron back". He dutifully placed the "business end" in my outstretched palm!

[Video]

wow, that sucks. I did have a problem once because the piece I was soldering to exploaded (yeah, got it to hot) luckily I didn't get to bad, but now I cheat when soldering batteries into something.

 

To bad about the "cold heat" soldering thing, it looks like a cool Idea, but even on the commercials I was thinking "that tip looks WAY to big" not to mention, what do you do when it wears out? My guess is toss it, since it's made to sell, but probably not to use.

[RU-DON]

I've been using a 15W Hakko pencil style soldering iron for about 7 years now. With this 1 iron, I've refurbished/repaired/modded over 100 consoles, more than 200 controllers, and assembled more than 50 cartridges. I think I got it from Mouser for about $20-$25 and I've never had an issue with it. Hell, I've even left the iron on over night on more than one occasion, and it still works like a champ. I would say that about 95% of hobbyist type people under no circumstance would ever need a multi-hundred/thousand dollar soldering station. Just get a Hakko pencil style iron and you'll be fine. And I can't believe that anybody in the world, in 2009, would still be using a damp rag or damp sponge to clean their tips, it absolutely boggles my mind. Especially if you want to solder more than one point every 2 minutes.

 

can you recommend a better way to clean and maintain solder tips?

[shadow460]

This thread is still kicking!? What's even more surprising is the Rat Shack iron I purchased the day I started it is also still kicking! Had a computer PSU with a bad 12 volt line coming out the business end. The RS iron capably soldered in the replacement at a 30 watt setting and the computer works great. It was crashing faster than OKC drivers on the ice.

 

My dumbest (and worst) solder burn was when I was about 12 or 13. I typically used my dad's chest freezer as a work table. It wasn't uncommon for me or my brother to drop an iron and burn the carpet, but since the carpet in that room was old my dad didn't say anything. It was around 9PM one night and my brother walked in the room to talk to me. I was wearing flip flops and I spun around to look at him. When I did, I brushed the power cord and this 85 watt iron came tumbling down. Afraid it would burn my ankle, I figured the smart thing to do would be to grab it before it hit the floor.

Perfect catch! It couldn't have been better if I'd caught the final touchdown pass in the BCS title game... except I caught the business end of the iron. It left four very painful burns on my left hand and the blisters grew the size of green peas. Of course I dropped the itron instantly and it still fell and burned the carpet. I don't know how it missed my leg.

 

Now I didn't learn to wear shoes while soldering from that. Not long after my brother and I were working on soldering something but we held it over open space instead of his work table. One of us got a little too much solder on the project and it dripped onto my foot, burning right through the sock. Oddly, I still solder without shoes. I think I've been known to solder in the *TMI*.

[Longhorn Engineer]

Another vote for the WES51. I use the smallest tip which is a 1/64" size. I would recommend this iron to anyone. Heats up in about 15 seconds and stays hot. No cool down after soldering large areas or cleaning with a sponge. I usually set mine in the 650*F range. Large RF shielding or soldering on lithium batteries I crank it up. I never had a case to turn it down as I have found it easier to solder small stuff with more heat.

 

RS irons are TERRIBLE. I used to go through a couple every 6 months then bought a Weller WP35. Used that one for 2 years before getting the WES51. The WP35 still works but I wanted an adjustable station. WP35 now sits in my tool box. Had the WES51 for 3 years now.

[Albert]

Another vote for the WES51. I use the smallest tip which is a 1/64" size. I would recommend this iron to anyone. Heats up in about 15 seconds and stays hot. No cool down after soldering large areas or cleaning with a sponge. I usually set mine in the 650*F range. Large RF shielding or soldering on lithium batteries I crank it up. I never had a case to turn it down as I have found it easier to solder small stuff with more heat.

I also use a WES51 and in fact just bought a new one to replace my first one that finally died after many years. I use the 1/32" tip, and I also have mine set to 650 degrees. I highly recommend it.

 

..Al

[jamesk]

I tossed my Radio Shack model and got a Xytronic 137ESD and I love it. I also got the TWZ 60 tweezers that are very handy.

 

This is the new version

http://www.howardelectronics.com/xytronic/LF1600.html

[tz101]

wow, that sucks. I did have a problem once because the piece I was soldering to exploaded (yeah, got it to hot) luckily I didn't get to bad, but now I cheat when soldering batteries into something.

 

To bad about the "cold heat" soldering thing, it looks like a cool Idea, but even on the commercials I was thinking "that tip looks WAY to big" not to mention, what do you do when it wears out? My guess is toss it, since it's made to sell, but probably not to use.

 

Best to just use a hot glue gun to place a dot of hot glue on the contacts when replacing system/game cart batteries. No danger of exploding a Ni-Cad battery with a soldering iron when I use this technique.

[Longhorn Engineer]

Anyone ever try those "cold" soldering irons? A portable iron that heats up and cools down quickly seems like a good idea in theory, but I've heard they're absolutely awful in practice.

 

Nah never tried the cold heat one but for portable solder irons I have this Butane powered one. I like it when working on boats and the jeep as I don't have to worry about cords or dropping it in the water and shocking myself.

[+poobah]

Another vote for the WES51. I use the smallest tip which is a 1/64" size. I would recommend this iron to anyone. Heats up in about 15 seconds and stays hot. No cool down after soldering large areas or cleaning with a sponge. I usually set mine in the 650*F range. Large RF shielding or soldering on lithium batteries I crank it up. I never had a case to turn it down as I have found it easier to solder small stuff with more heat.

I also use a WES51 and in fact just bought a new one to replace my first one that finally died after many years. I use the 1/32" tip, and I also have mine set to 650 degrees. I highly recommend it.

 

..Al

 

You guys are killing me....

I've been putting off replacing my "Solomon SL-30" with a WES51 for a while now... I'd almost forgot, (since the SL-30 still works), and now you go and remind me

[gdement]

I've only had cheap irons so far.

At first I went through a couple cheap retail Weller irons (~$15-$20 types). They sucked and didn't last.

For at least a couple years now I've been using a pair of Xytronics 200PHG irons (40W and 60W) from Jameco. Those were noticeably better irons despite being cheap. The replacement tips are also cheap enough I could replace it for every job, but I haven't needed to.

My only complaint with those irons is you have to be careful with tightening the tip into the iron. The allan wrench they include is a loose fit and if you overtighten it will start to slip. A slightly larger wrench fits better than the one they give you.

 

I certainly would like to move up to a proper temperature controlled iron, but for somebody who wants a bargain basement iron that's decent, I recommend those Xytronics at Jameco. Also get a 10-pack of tips (they're barely over $1 each).

 

I'm actually thinking it might be more worthwhile to spend on a good desoldering station before I spend on a soldering station. I can get by with a cheap soldering iron but desoldering is what I struggle with.

[shadow460]

Desoldering is the other half of the equation, though. Just an iron/bulb isn't always enough, either.

 

Recently I dug this one iron out of my tool box. Dunno how long it had been buried there. It's not a Weller and it's not a RS iron, but I don't know for the life of me what kind it is. It works well, IMO.

[Longhorn Engineer]

Anyone have any suggestions for a moderately priced ($100-$150) decent desoldering station?

Edited February 3, 2010 by Longhorn Engineer

[ovalbugmann]

I'm not a real experienced solderer but I have several projects I would like to get done and I have been reading all these excellent comments for Metcal units which are actually made by OKi???

 

Anyway I have been considering investing in this unit:

 

http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/query.cgi?query=sp200-11&gclid=CKj1ibjV9osCFQIpFQodVB9iag

This model is described here too:

http://www.okinternational.com/product_soldering/sp200#sp200

 

I see there is no temperature control on it, as the Metcal units regulate temperature by the tip cartridges but I see there is only 600 and 700 degree tips available for it(on that page)? - are these two temperatures and possibly using some kind of heat sink all I will ever need for even sensitive electronics projects?

 

When working with no-cleans or thermally sensitive applications, Metcal's 500 Series tip cartridges are an excellent choice.

 

What's up with paying $300 for this new Metcal and there being no temp control on the unit? They are just Tip Cart temp controlled I guess?

 

Is this a good unit to invest in?, for a beginner-intermediate solderer? As I want a very good unit, and would prefer Metcal but $300 is about as high as I would want to go.

Edited February 3, 2010 by ovalbugmann

[jamesk]

Is this a good unit to invest in?, for a beginner-intermediate solderer? As I want a very good unit, and would prefer Metcal but $300 is about as high as I would want to go.

 

Wow.. $300 is a lot. I'm sure it's a great iron but there are plenty of great irons under $100, I would go with them.

 

For $300 you could get a nice iron, tweezers, panavise, ESD wrist strap and a fume extractor.

[ovalbugmann]

Ok, thanks I will keep looking around then, maybe I can find a used Metcal on Ebay or just buy one of those Aoyue Digital Soldering stations from sparkfun.com -they are $100. Need to check out the different brands on Amazon also. Kinda wanted a Metcal though, but true, clicking on that buy now button for $300 would be painful!

[ovalbugmann]

Cool, I just won an auction for a new Metcal unit an SP-200 - the same one I was going to buy that I mentioned in my other post. The cheapest I could find one of these models online for, was at HMC Electronics who are known for their decent prices and the unit was still $300.00. So checking eBay I just got a NEW Metcal SP-200 for one third of that price! - $130.00!!

 

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 220548120520