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NES Troubles


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Hey Guys,

 

I picked up a thrift store NES console and, surprise surprise, it doesn't work. I attempted to fix the existing 72 pin connecter but they had no effect on the blinking red light so I purchased a replacement. No more blinkies but the screen on the cartridges I have (Super Mario 3, Bill and Ted and Indiana Jones) is usually garbled or remains black. I cleaned all the cartridges thoroughly with rubbing alcohol as well as the pickups for the 72 pin connector.

 

What's next to try, or is this console totally dead?

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I picked up a NES a couple of months back at a flea market. Blinked like crazy! I just disabled the lock out chip(Broke one of the pin leads, not sure which check youtube) and it doesnt blink no more. I still will have connection problems when i first plug a cart in but at least i can fiddle with it and see what im doing instead of seeing that stupid red light! somebody should have been shot for their stupidity of it's design! I cut my fingers to peaces on that darn rf shelding!icon_mad.gif Ok rant done. Still it works good now and I love me some super mario bros.icon_smile.gif

Edited by FLANNERY
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buy a top loader and forget about that tired old toaster...

Well, the toploader isn't shielded (read: signal noise), and it only has RF output (unless you mod it).

 

As many of you know, blinking means that a certain chip in the cartridge can't communicate with a matching chip in the console; either because of bad contacts, chip failure, or mismatching chips. If fixing the connector doesn't work, make sure the game is of correct region, and if it is, try with another game.

 

Another effect of bad contacts are corrupted data to/from the ROM/RAM on the cartridge, which usually results in garbled screen or nothing at all. To fix this, you should try to clean the contacts in the console, or make sure all the pins have enough "spring" to make proper contact with the cartridges. I haver never had any experiences with "new"* 72-pin connecters, but I have fixed an original one.

 

(*: some may actually be new, but some may have been taken from original working/nonworking consoles and either properly or improperly fixed.)

Edited by per
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Another problem I came over today that might cause bad contacts is corrosion. Some cartridges may become so corroded that bad contacts are unavoidable. When this is the case, fine sandpaper is the only solution. Just be aware that it's not permanent, and if you want it to last, you'll need some conductive non-corrosive plating to place on topp of the sandpapered parts. If this doesn't happen, it will corrode again and more severially than the previous time.

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if you've cleaned all the contacts well (including the 72-pin connector on the main board -with an eraser than alcohol) and blinking is no longer an issue (that cn be eliminated by disabling lockout: cut pin 4 on chip 3193A for North American units; I think it's a 16-pin DIP chip).

 

To really clean cartridges you need to disassemble them (some require game bits) and use an eraser followed by more alcohol swabbing (polishing with fine 1000+ grit sandpaper in extreme cases -that can also be done without opening the cart if you want to avoid the eraser, but it's harder on the carts)

Finally, try the tried and true: adjust the cart and reset/power on/off until it works: pop the cart in and wiggle, shift it until it works.

 

 

Also note that for soem replacement connectors, the contacts are extra tight and it's best to use it without pushing the game down as it can put excess pressure on the board (leading to broken traces).

Additionally most stock 72 pin connectors are reparable unless overly corroded or bent: simply a good bit of cleaning, polishing with fine sandpaper and resetting the pins with a small screw driver (not too much or you end up like the overly tight aftermarket connectors), make sure the board side connectors are clean and polished as well. (and that the connectors on the PCB itself are also clean)

 

Avoid using chemical cleaners (tarnish removers) as, while they work well at cleansing metal and removing corrosion, they tend to leave residue unless you laboriously remove all traces after cleaning. Any residue tends to add to corrosion problems. (mechanical and non reactive cleaning methods don't have this problem)

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I currently disassembled my NES to prep for a 72 pin swap out. I've read that the front two screws for the cartridge tray also may have an effect. I would loosen them or tighten them until you get the right position. I tried it even with a crappy 72 pin in mine and I got one game to work, however I couldn't get any other ones to.

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