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Paddle controller vs Driving controller


stringfellow

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This may or may not have been posted before but here goes. What is the difference between the two? Aside from the obvious that is. I have both and I thought that they might be interchangeable but it seems I was wrong. My paddle controllers need repair so I can't play breakout with them. I thought that I could use my driving controller instead but when I try nothing works. Is there anything I can do to make the driving controller work?

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Driving controllers can be turned infinitely in either direction, paddles have stops. Driving controllers are single, paddles are wired in pairs. Other than that I would have to say that the pot inside is different and the combination of the pot and the way the controller is wired sends a completely different signal through the joystick port depending on which type of controller you are using.

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Paddles use a potentiometer aka variable resistor. The position of this controller is read by the console. Their range of rotation is limited to approximately 330 degrees, though few (if any) games use even half of the rotational range.

 

Driving controllers use a rotary encoder. The change in position of this controller is detected by the console. Their range of rotation is limitless, but only 16 positional changes can be represented by one rotation of the knob.

 

They are entirely different technologies and can not be interchanged unless the game software provides a means of using each type of controller.

 

Only one driving controller can be used per port, so only 2 driving controllers can be used in a game. 2 paddle controllers can be used per port so a game can have up to 4 controllers.

This definitely has been discussed a number of times so you should be able to find more detail by poking around on the forums here. Some terms that you may never have heard of which would turn up technical discussions on the driving controller:

- rotary encoder

- gray (or grey) code

Edited by BigO
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Ok, I think I got it. Thanks for the help. How difficult is it to change the pot in the paddle controller?

Mr. Hawke,

 

It's not very difficult. If you can solder then there's not much challenge at all.

 

The trickiest part would be finding a compatible replacement. I don't recall exactly what it is, but I remember hearing that there's something slightly unusual about the pots used in the paddles. Maybe the shape of the shaft, the flat side shaped into it?

 

Do you have broken paddles that you're trying to repair? It's not at all uncommon for paddles to "jitter" and that can usually be fixed without replacing the pot.

Edited by BigO
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excellent, I'll have to see what I have that I can clean them with. Good to know that I might not have to replace anything. You guys sure are a helpful bunch around here.

 

All you should need is some high percentage Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and cotton swabs, a phillips screwdriver, and a pair of needlenose pliers.

 

And, thanks for the props to all of us! :)

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All you should need is some high percentage Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and cotton swabs, a phillips screwdriver, and a pair of needlenose pliers.

I would add to that list, a proper wrench (or "spanner" for you Brits) to loosen and tighten the nut which holds the pot to the case top. Those nuts were made in a couple of different sizes IIRC; something like 1/2 inch on the heavy sixer style and 9/16 inch on the later ones.

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Ok, I think I got it. Thanks for the help. How difficult is it to change the pot in the paddle controller?

Mr. Hawke,

 

It's not very difficult. If you can solder then there's not much challenge at all.

 

The trickiest part would be finding a compatible replacement. I don't recall exactly what it is, but I remember hearing that there's something slightly unusual about the pots used in the paddles. Maybe the shape of the shaft, the flat side shaped into it?

 

Do you have broken paddles that you're trying to repair? It's not at all uncommon for paddles to "jitter" and that can usually be fixed without replacing the pot.

There is nothing unusual about the paddle controller pots, they are connected like rheostats (only middle and one other terminal used) Value: 1 Mega-ohm, linear. Pretty easy to find replacements for :)

However cleaning out ye olde Atari pots saves money, parts and is pretty easy to do, so I'd advise you try what the chaps who posted above suggested before buying a new pot.

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There is nothing unusual about the paddle controller pots, they are connected like rheostats (only middle and one other terminal used) Value: 1 Mega-ohm, linear. Pretty easy to find replacements for

Guess again. Those pots haven't been made since about 2 seconds after Atari stopped using them. The exact shaft style is obsolete and the only place I know of to get the right ones is Best Electronics, if they even have them anymore.

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There is nothing unusual about the paddle controller pots, they are connected like rheostats (only middle and one other terminal used) Value: 1 Mega-ohm, linear. Pretty easy to find replacements for

Guess again. Those pots haven't been made since about 2 seconds after Atari stopped using them. The exact shaft style is obsolete and the only place I know of to get the right ones is Best Electronics, if they even have them anymore.

Oh, mere technicalities :roll: I agree, of course, the exact same type will be hard to find again, but a suitable replacement is easy to come by.

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Here's a difference that you can see - plug in a game that uses joysticks then plug in the paddle controller and try to move around - the fire buttons control the left and right movement - the knob does nothing. Plug in the driving controller - the fire button fires but turning the knob you can only move up and down. There ya go.

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