Syfo-Dyas Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Hello all. I'm at it again, modding yet another Atari, but am a little lost with this one. At first I thought it would be easy, till it got to the part where I'm supposed to solder in all the components into the open spot on the mother board. The picture below shows the area where I am supposed to do all the soldering, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what is what, I.E. which connection is R124, which one is R136, R137, etc. Some of them seem obvious, but some look like they could be one of two points. Also Sloopy mentioned that there is an easier method... ...any guides on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBuell Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Hello all. I'm at it again, modding yet another Atari, but am a little lost with this one. At first I thought it would be easy, till it got to the part where I'm supposed to solder in all the components into the open spot on the mother board. The picture below shows the area where I am supposed to do all the soldering, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what is what, I.E. which connection is R124, which one is R136, R137, etc. Some of them seem obvious, but some look like they could be one of two points. Also Sloopy mentioned that there is an easier method... ...any guides on this? I did this recently, but didn't take any photos, sorry Be careful what you solder where, as I wound up having the monitor jack working, but b/w only! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 (edited) this might make it more clear... sloopy. Edited October 25, 2010 by sloopy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Much clearer, I should be good now and will take photos and post a tutorial... ...assuming all goes well that is. Thankx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 OK, small problem. I don't know what the .001mf, 3.9pf, and 100pf Capacitors look like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rybags Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 They're all low value caps, so won't be of the can type, likely some or all will be the pressed round brown types. Since they're smaller and can't hold much printed text, they'll use codes to show the values. These links should help: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/capac.htm http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Capacitor_Codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I have a 600xl in the basement that is open right now, that has this mod in it, I'll take a look tonight if you havent figured it out and let you know what came with my kit, and what they look like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 I've covered it all now except the last two steps: Add a jumper wire and 75 ohm resistor between the emitter of Q6 (see fiture 2) and pin #1 of the 5 pin din connector. Chroma mod Add a jumper wire and 200 ohm resistor between the emitter of Q9 (see figure 2) and pin #5 of the 5 pin connector. Got audio no video, but I presume that's normal since I've not hooked up the Luma yet right? HEading to store to buy two last needed parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 The last two are to add Chroma and Luma... Prior to that you should have Composite on pin 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 if someone can get me a very good pic of that section, i will make a detailed image of components... the above pic doesnt include the bottom resistor... if not i have two people who are talking about upgrades to their 600XL's and when (if?) one comes in, i will get a pic... sloopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 if someone can get me a very good pic of that section, i will make a detailed image of components... the above pic doesnt include the bottom resistor... if not i have two people who are talking about upgrades to their 600XL's and when (if?) one comes in, i will get a pic... sloopy. I don't have any bottom resitors on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 if someone can get me a very good pic of that section, i will make a detailed image of components... the above pic doesnt include the bottom resistor... if not i have two people who are talking about upgrades to their 600XL's and when (if?) one comes in, i will get a pic... sloopy. I don't have any bottom resitors on mine. you did the 'Popp' upgrade, and didnt put R131, and R130 in? sloopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 The last two are to add Chroma and Luma... Prior to that you should have Composite on pin 4 So without the last two steps I should be getting video, is that what you are saying? Cause all I got is black. Here are some pics and the direction from the project. I've more on the way. =================== Part list: R124, R137, LUMA MOD 75 OHM Resistor (Purple,Green,Black,Gold) R129, R131, R132 1k OHM Resistor (Brown,Black,Red,Gold) R133 3.3k OHM Resistor (Orange,Orange,Red,Gold) R135 240 OHM Resistor (Red,Yellow,Brown,Gold) R138 3k OHM Resistor (Orange,Black,Red,Gold) Croma MOD 200 OHM Resistor (Red,Black,Brown,Gold) C112 .001mf Capacitor (.001k) L12 Ferrite Coil (No Marking) Connect Wire Soldering Iron/Solder R128 6.2k OHM Resistor (Blue,Red,Red,Gold) R130 2.2k OHM Resistor (Red,Red,Red,Gold) R134 10k OHM Resistor (Brown,Black,Orange,Gold) R136 100 OHM resistor (Brown,Black,Brown,Gold) R139 4.7k OHM Resistor (Yellow,Purple,Red,Gold) C111 3.9pf Capacitor (3.9) C113 100pf Capacitor (101) 5 Pin Din Connector Q7,Q8,Q9 3904 Transistor (2N3904) Solder Nick or a Solder Sucker The 600xl mother board like the 800xl mother board was set up so that it could be used in different countries. With slight changes in the number of components or compontent values used on the mother board. Fortunately for the 600xl ownder one of these options was a monitor output for an overseas 600xl model. Most of the 600xl mother boards have all of the necessary component locations on the moather board but are missing the components necessary for a composite video output. This mod requires that you remove your channel 2-3 select switch, cut one trace on the mother board, add components to the mother board and modify the bottom part of your 600xl case in order to make the monitor jack accessible from the outside of the case. Composite Video Mod Disassemble your 600xl computer down to the mother board level. The first thing to check is whether or not your mother board can be modified for a monitor output. (There were several different rev's and manufactures of the 600xl mother boards.) One and a half inches behind the 7 pin din power connector (next to the on/off switch) you should find a section of the mother board where there are missing components. You will see the white silk screen numbers and letters on the mother board but no components at those locations (see figure 1). If this is so then you can proceed with this mod. First thing to do is to remove the channel 2-3 switch. To do this, turn the 600xl mother board upside down then apply the solder sucker to the 3 points where the 2-3 channel switch is soldered down. After all the solder has been sucked and the switch removed, you'll then want to remove the solder from the five points behind where the switch originally sat. Now turn the mother board right side up. Look at the five points that you just desoldered. Point 1 is on the left of the top row. Point 2 is the center, and 3 is on the Right. 4 is on the bottom left, and 5 the bottom right.Now that we know which point is which, turn your mother board over and cut the line that connects point 2 with point 5. Turn the mother board right side up and solder the DIN Connector into the five point location. Next replace (solder in) the missing components. The above parts list has the components and the locations on the motehr board (example R131) where they go. On some of the 600xl mother boards it is hard to read teh silk screen ptringing where the missing components should go. (See figure 1). Even figure 1 is sometimes hard to read! So here is a listing of the missing components starting right to left behind Q7 transistor, R131, R130,R128,R129,C111,R133,R134,R132,L13 (existing coil), R138,C113,R125 existing resistor, R123 exisisting resostor. In front of R123 is R124, to the left of R124 is R136, in front of R124 is L12. Left to right of L12 is R127,C112,Q9,R139,Q8,R135,Q7. Now you have composite video! To mod the 600xl bottom case I used a vermont American brand 3/4" hole saw (no. 18312) and hole saw mandrel. (No. 18301) We modified (using an allen wrench) the hole saw mandrel so that the hole saw itself cut into the plastic first before the center 1/4" guide drill did. To get a clean looking hole I put about 5 strips of masking tape over the plastic where I was going to drill the monitor hole Using a center line between the power plug hole, T.V. modulator hole and cross hair over the letter "a" in the word 2-chan-3 I drilled the modulator hole. Luminescense mod Add a jumper wire and 75 ohm resistor between the emitter of Q6 (see fiture 2) and pin #1 of the 5 pin din connector. Chroma mod Add a jumper wire and 200 ohm resistor between the emitter of Q9 (see figure 2) and pin #5 of the 5 pin connector. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 yeah without the luma and chroma hooked up you should be getting a good composite signal... once all those parts are installed :') that first pic is what i was looking for, tonight i will do up a pic nicely for it... sloopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Alright, so this sux then. What sort of Multi-meter should I buy for testing in that case, and how do I go about testing? I know I have all the correct parts in the right places and am going to later modify the photos to show where each part goes. I also made sure that all the connections that were connected on the bottom of the board stayed that way. Not sure why I am not getting video, but it makes me a very sad panda. :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 (directional references by first pic in series above) see the trace that is coming from the two bottom holes of L12, and R137? thats the line that goes up to the A/V jack, check continuity ( Ohms reading) for less then 5 Ohms, between those spots and pin 4 (second one down on the left side as your facing the back of the connector...) and then check for some voltage there when the machine is on... a good pic of the stuff installed overhead, and at a 45deg angle would be helpful... (and the proper tool, would be an oscilloscope for this...) sloopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 (directional references by first pic in series above) see the trace that is coming from the two bottom holes of L12, and R137? thats the line that goes up to the A/V jack, check continuity ( Ohms reading) for less then 5 Ohms, between those spots and pin 4 (second one down on the left side as your facing the back of the connector...) and then check for some voltage there when the machine is on... a good pic of the stuff installed overhead, and at a 45deg angle would be helpful... (and the proper tool, would be an oscilloscope for this...) sloopy. Thankx, so will any Oscilloscope do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 Here we go, now you guys can see my ammature work. BTW, do the two front most legs of the 5 pin din do anything besides serve as a seat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 those two pins just hold the 'front' of the socket down securely... what kind of soldering iron are you using? and how did you desolder the holes? sloopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 30W Radio Shack Soldering Iron and a Solder Sucker. W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 Would this work for me? It's the cheapest I can find: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 270649373443 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariksi Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Would this work for me? It's the cheapest I can find: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 270649373443 If you're just building a s-video mod, may be cheaper to get one from KJMan (if still available). This is the one I got from him and fitted into the RF box in a 600XL; I re-used the RCA jack for composite video out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 Would this work for me? It's the cheapest I can find: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 270649373443 If you're just building a s-video mod, may be cheaper to get one from KJMan (if still available). This is the one I got from him and fitted into the RF box in a 600XL; I re-used the RCA jack for composite video out. I've considered this for my other 600Xl (assuming I can get it repaired). If this mod does not pan out though, I may be considering it for this 600xl well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 No, that device is not useful. Don't waste your money. You need a 20mhz or better scope to do anything with an 8-bit. Try to get an old Tektronix or HP scope, if you can. They usually hold up pretty well. I'll give you a 50mhz Tektronix scope if you come pick it up... Bob Would this work for me? It's the cheapest I can find: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 270649373443 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syfo-Dyas Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 No, that device is not useful. Don't waste your money. You need a 20mhz or better scope to do anything with an 8-bit. Try to get an old Tektronix or HP scope, if you can. They usually hold up pretty well. I'll give you a 50mhz Tektronix scope if you come pick it up... Bob Would this work for me? It's the cheapest I can find: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 270649373443 Well Bob, I just so happen to be on vacation. What state do you live in and thank you for the offer, these things are not cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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