Lendorien Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 (edited) I recently picked up a Colecovision lot that included the Expansion Module #2 and Turbo. Upon trying it out, I found that the steering wheel did not work, though the foot pedal worked fine. Seems others have had this issue. Does anyone have any repair suggestions? I suspect it's the optical sensor, seeing as the regular controller works just fine in the joystick port. The optical sensor, (called the Dual Photo Coupler in the tech manual) but I wouldn't know for sure or how to proceed to fix it. I'm not even sure if that part even is available any more, or if there's a suitable equivalent. I've done some internet searches, but have not found any concrete information on how to fix this. If it is the optical sensor, does anyone know a suitable replacement? Suggestions? Edited September 6, 2011 by Lendorien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowCoder Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 While the sensor could be the problem, have you checked that the cable isn't the culprit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lendorien Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 While the sensor could be the problem, have you checked that the cable isn't the culprit? Any suggestions on how to do that? As I said, the foot pedal works, so there must be some sort of signal getting through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VectorGamer Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 I had problems with erratic steering. The problem was that the terminals in the battery compartment were rusted. I sprayed them with Liquid Wrench, sanded off the rust and gave it one final cleaning and now it works like a champ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Yurkie Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 I bet it's the sensor. The pedal is just a simple normally open switch, when you push down it closes... Like touching 2 wires together. I have seem optical sensors however I don't have a link saved, nor am I sure it would mount in place and/or work as a replacement if it could be mounted in place. I have wondered if, but actually never took the time to check if the wheel and the roller controller use the same exact optical sensor... If they did an RC with one working axis could be fixed or used as a donor for another RC or a Wheel. I have seen your question before and I have never seen anyone offer a link to a drop in replacement. Although it is a shame to throw away classic gaming hardware that is probably the best route to go. There seems to be very little interest in the expansion modules, unless they are boxed. I can't even sell a really nice clean working Roller Controller for $25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VectorGamer Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Although it is a shame to throw away classic gaming hardware that is probably the best route to go. There seems to be very little interest in the expansion modules, unless they are boxed. I can't even sell a really nice clean working Roller Controller for $25. That's a surprise actually. I was always under the impression that there were demands for expansion modules since they are rarely included (in auctions or thrift finds) with the base unit. I know I spent some time trying to find a Roller Controller that worked. I was lucky on the driving controller since it was included with a Craigslist find. Like they say giving CPR "don't worry about breaking the ribs because they're gonna die anyway" - take the driver controller apart and see if there's a stink bug in the sensor. Clean everything up and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lendorien Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 (edited) Well, I took it apart and couldn't find any issue physically. The battery thing was a good suggestion since I pulled out 4 corroded C batteries when I got it. So I cleaned the leads again and then tested for current with my multitester. Whatever I did, it fixed the issue because the controller works now. Still, if you ask me, we should all knock our heads together and find a replacement sensor. The tech manual calls it a "Photo Coupler" and even has a part number. But who knows what that part number corresponds to. I've looked for specs on the part to no avail. The circuit board is not very complex, so I'm sure something could be jury-rigged if necessary. I simply do not have the electronics know-how to do it myself without assistance. The Colecovision is not the only item to use this type of sensors. Mice with rollerballs use them too in much the same fashion as the wheel, so it has to be something that is somewhat available. The question is voltage and whether it would work with the wheel assembly. Edited September 7, 2011 by Lendorien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Yurkie Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 If you really want to try something, this might work eBay Auction -- Item Number: 350489911067 If you actually buy this item and install please post results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariluvr77 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 I know this is an old thread, I came upon it searching the net, so others may as well... just to clear up some of the speculation: The optical sensors in the Roller Controller differ from the sensor in Driving Module... The Roller Controller sensor is smaller with 4 leads while the Driving Module has a larger sensor with 6 leads... In my case, it is not due to corroded battery terminals, they are clean and tested with a multimeter (fresh batteries) I get strong 6V current to the pcb board... it is definately the optical sensor. WWW.mouser.com has a multitude of optical sensors that look like they may work, problem is I cannot find any specs on the OEM sensor used by Coleco for the Driving Module. As noted earlier, it is called a "Dual Photo Coupler" in the exp #2 tech manual (with part number 555941) and searching with those parameters turned out fruitless... But, my optical sensor is stamped 5K, what that means I'm not exactly sure. It would be great if someone found a suitable replacement sensor using what information is available... at this point I'm waiting for a ugly unit to use as a donor to bring mine back to life, it looks great and has a pretty low serial number... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atariluvr77 Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Well, I got my unit working, and it turns out it was NOT the optical sensor, it was the NPN Transistor at Q2 which luckily I was able to steal from another parts unit. The troubleshooting flowchart worked great for me on this unit to determine the defective part. All I needed was a multimeter to check my voltages, then proceed down the flowchart to the "fix" which in this case was to check the R4 and R5 resistors (OK using the multimeter set to ohms) and then replace the Q2 transistor. Depending on your voltage readings the flowchart will send you in different directions, so this fix was specific to the symptoms displayed by my unit. NOTE: there are 2 TYPOS in the flowchart... #1 typo is on sheet 2 where it asks if the Q1 transistor "emitter" leg is greater than 1.8 volts... my unit WAS greater so I went to my fix ok, but if the answer would have been NO, then you would have went to check R1, C5, and "J9" -- THERE IS NO J9 and it should read C9 #2 typo is probably more in line with this thread and involves the optical sensor... it is marked in the repair manual as part #555941 -- I have opened a few of these now and the part is actually stamped S-55941, thats S as in "sam" -- and MAY stil be available because 2 of the units I opened had the optical sensor marked as being made by LITON, part number 8312 -- it's also important to note that the color of your optical sensor determines whether it's "5K" or "10K" and results in resistors of different values being used. I was pretty determined to get this thing working and researched quite a bit on that "optical sensor" -- just FYI it is more accurately called a TRANSMISSIVE ENCODER SENSOR... There are several types of optical sensors and the one used here is of the Transmissive type, and it really is called an encoder sensor because it uses an encoder wheel to determine left/right movement and send it's signals. I hope some of this help the next person attempting to fix there steering wheel module. Peace Luvr 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColecoDan Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Well, I got my unit working, and it turns out it was NOT the optical sensor, it was the NPN Transistor at Q2 which luckily I was able to steal from another parts unit. The troubleshooting flowchart worked great for me on this unit to determine the defective part. All I needed was a multimeter to check my voltages, then proceed down the flowchart to the "fix" which in this case was to check the R4 and R5 resistors (OK using the multimeter set to ohms) and then replace the Q2 transistor. Depending on your voltage readings the flowchart will send you in different directions, so this fix was specific to the symptoms displayed by my unit. NOTE: there are 2 TYPOS in the flowchart... #1 typo is on sheet 2 where it asks if the Q1 transistor "emitter" leg is greater than 1.8 volts... my unit WAS greater so I went to my fix ok, but if the answer would have been NO, then you would have went to check R1, C5, and "J9" -- THERE IS NO J9 and it should read C9 #2 typo is probably more in line with this thread and involves the optical sensor... it is marked in the repair manual as part #555941 -- I have opened a few of these now and the part is actually stamped S-55941, thats S as in "sam" -- and MAY stil be available because 2 of the units I opened had the optical sensor marked as being made by LITON, part number 8312 -- it's also important to note that the color of your optical sensor determines whether it's "5K" or "10K" and results in resistors of different values being used. I was pretty determined to get this thing working and researched quite a bit on that "optical sensor" -- just FYI it is more accurately called a TRANSMISSIVE ENCODER SENSOR... There are several types of optical sensors and the one used here is of the Transmissive type, and it really is called an encoder sensor because it uses an encoder wheel to determine left/right movement and send it's signals. I hope some of this help the next person attempting to fix there steering wheel module. Peace Luvr Glad to see you got it fixed and from your description of all you did you are probably now the expert for this expansion module. I wonder if some day many years in the future someone is going to be going through all this work on one of the SGMs and fixing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phattyboombatty Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 This is about the only thread for Expansion Module #2 hardware failures, so I'm resurrecting it. This is also the most helpful information I've come across! Finally broke out my Driving Controller that I'd won in an auction earlier this year... I received my Sanyo Eneloop "C" battery shells from Amazon, and I couldn't wait to try out my rechargeable batteries. My Exp Mod #2 didn't work at first, so I wanted to investigate. After a quick take-apart and cleaning with anti-corrosive spray, I tried again to no avail. Then I re-situated the batteries. Essentially, the "AA" batteries inside the Eneloop "C" shells don't have enough real estate on the negative polarity to make contact with the spring. I had to coil the spring a bit tighter, and seat the batteries carefully, in order to make a good contact. I'm also thinking about soldering a thin metal contact plate onto the springs, so that the contact can be improved and stabilized. In summation, check your power source carefully for corrosives and contact issues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiLic0ne t0aD Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Mine is broken as well. I took it apart, deoxit everything and still no luck. Foot pedal doesn't work either. Oh well, maybe ill just save up for a CIB or get lucky somewhere hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIAD Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Mine is broken as well. I took it apart, deoxit everything and still no luck. Foot pedal doesn't work either. Oh well, maybe ill just save up for a CIB or get lucky somewhere hopefully. I have a tested and working Gas (Foot) Pedal that I can hook you up with for $10.. that includes shipping. It's a simple On/Off Switch, so either the contact is completely worn-out or there is a lot of corrosion built-up that needs to be cleaned better. Anyway, as I have learned, it's best to have some extras laying around for when the need arises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiLic0ne t0aD Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Cool I might be interested, I believe it's the cord that's no good on my pedal. As far as the other controls, the steering wheel doesn't do much of anything either. It's pretty much dead altogether. I downloaded the tech documents for it so maybe that'll help me figure out what the problem is, if not I'll just buy another complete module. Definitely doesn't hurt to have spares! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueyoda Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 On 3/5/2013 at 12:01 AM, atariluvr77 said: NOTE: there are 2 TYPOS in the flowchart... #1 typo is on sheet 2 where it asks if the Q1 transistor "emitter" leg is greater than 1.8 volts... my unit WAS greater so I went to my fix ok, but if the answer would have been NO, then you would have went to check R1, C5, and "J9" -- THERE IS NO J9 and it should read C9 #2 typo is probably more in line with this thread and involves the optical sensor... it is marked in the repair manual as part #555941 -- I have opened a few of these now and the part is actually stamped S-55941, thats S as in "sam" -- and MAY stil be available because 2 of the units I opened had the optical sensor marked as being made by LITON, part number 8312 -- it's also important to note that the color of your optical sensor determines whether it's "5K" or "10K" and results in resistors of different values being used. I'm confused about this because on sheet 2 you'd check R9, C1 and J5 and NOT R1, C5 and J9 (nor C9) according to the manual I have. http://colecovisionzone.com/photos/coleco/module2%20tech2.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 I'm going to bump this ancient topic with an Expansion Module #2 Encoder Wheel Optical Sensor Replacement option -- which I came up with to fix my own steering wheel controller. Digi-Key Order Page LINK $9.41 each -- In Stock 3D Printer File: CV-MOD2-OPB826-Base.stl Requires 3D Printed Base to both lock it into the correct X/Y position as well as to place it at the correct height above the PCB. The index holes align with pins on the sensor, and the 3 pins on the base engage with the index holes in the PCB (melt them after installation into the PCB to lock it in place). Requires some point to point wiring to match up with the original sensor's signal connections. And because the top and bottom sensors are reversed due to choosing the easiest wiring path, the white and purple quadrature output wires need to be reversed as well (shown already done in the photo below). Also it's important to make sure to mount the sensor to the base as shown with the 'E' side facing up. Use the two larger existing holes on the PCB to feed signal wires through to the bottom of the board. R As mentioned earlier, the alignment pins on the 3D printed base get melted to secure the base to the PCB. A little bit of hot glue gets used to make sure the sensor stays attached to the base. A short video showing the repaired steering wheel in operation... 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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