tjlazer Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 Anyway, I got a larger diode than what Mitch used. It had all the same specs, but it was rated for three times the current. Yeah, same here. I picked up the 3A diode (276-1141). I plan to get the parts from Rat Shack. Can you please give me the names and numbers for the rest of the parts? All but the powerjack as I saw those there the other day. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow460 Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 (edited) Aside from the power jack, here's the December 2006 Cell Phone Shack parts list: 47uF 35V electrolytic cap 1N5400 rectifier diode #276-1141 (bear in mind this is overkill--a smaller diode will work) I don't remember right off what the filter cap is but it's a ceramic disc type with a number 104 on it. Also, you need at least four inches of wire and a desoldering tool for the 4700uF cap and the inductor you have to remove. Cell Phone Shack should have all this and a bag of chips. Count your lucky stars, since this is one of the few projects they have parts for. The diodes and the filter caps come two to a pack, and I have one of each left over. If you want 'em, PM me with your address and I'll send 'em to ya. Cheaper for me to buy a stamp than for you to buy extra parts. Edited November 28, 2006 by shadow460 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPUWIZ Posted November 28, 2006 Author Share Posted November 28, 2006 Cell Phone Shack should have all this and a bag of chips. Damn, you're lucky, they don't have any snacks at any RadioRape around here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 (edited) Can you please give me the names and numbers for the rest of the parts? I'll list 'em all just in case someone else digs up this thread Size N Panel-Mount Coaxial DC Power Jack Model: 274-1576 | Catalog #: 274-1576 0.1µF 50V Hi-Q Ceramic Disc Capacitor Pk/2 Model: 272-135 | Catalog #: 272-135 3-Amp Barrel Diodes Model: 1N5404 | Catalog #: 276-1144 47µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor Model: 272-1027 | Catalog #: 272-1027 Edited November 28, 2006 by remowilliams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uzumaki Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 I don't remember right off what the filter cap is but it's a ceramic disc type with a number 104 on it. 104 just means 0.01 uF First 2 numbers are value in pF and 3rd number is the multiplier. So 104= 10*10^4 or 100,000 pF or 0.01 uF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow460 Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 I just realized what I said, too! "all this and a bag of chips" could also mean "all this and a bag of IC's!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 I just realized what I said, too! "all this and a bag of chips" could also mean "all this and a bag of IC's!" Except when talking about Crap Shack. They're far more likely to be stocking potato chips than the ICs you might need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaybird3rd Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Except when talking about Crap Shack. They're far more likely to be stocking potato chips than the ICs you might need. And they'll try to sell you an extended service plan when you buy them, too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Except when talking about Crap Shack. They're far more likely to be stocking potato chips than the ICs you might need. And they'll try to sell you an extended service plan when you buy them, too. I dunno, that might pay off big... "So you're saying that if these batteries fail in the next five years, for ANY reason, you'll replace them?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uzumaki Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Hmmm... I'll have to remember that plan next time I need AA's for my battery guzzling Lynx 1 and Game Gear system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow460 Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Hmmm... I'll have to remember that plan next time I need AA's for my battery guzzling Lynx 1 and Game Gear system. Twelve NiMH cells from Wal Mart and a charger are all you need. I charge my Game Gear about once a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.J. Franzman Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 I don't remember right off what the filter cap is but it's a ceramic disc type with a number 104 on it. 104 just means 0.01 uF First 2 numbers are value in pF and 3rd number is the multiplier. So 104= 10*10^4 or 100,000 pF or 0.01 uF It's 0.1 uF, not 0.01 . 100,000 pF = 100 nF = 0.1 uF Notice the decimal point moves three places left each time the prefix increases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 I have been given a capacitor with the markings 101J on it, is this suitable? What voltage should I be seeing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.J. Franzman Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 101 is 100 pF; the "J" means +/- 5% tolerance. This value is 1/1000 of the 100 nF value recommended above, and will result in a weaker signal to the TV, but it may work OK. Try it and let us know -- you can always change it if it doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARMIK Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 (edited) Why remove LB i just had this done for me but it looks like you just solder at these two points no diode capacitor or anything. Edited December 11, 2007 by HARMIK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.J. Franzman Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 (edited) Why remove LB i just had this done for me but it looks like you just solder at these two points no diode capacitor or anything. Because doing it that way may cook any or all of the following: TV, 5200 console, AC adapter, and switchbox! A standard Atari mechanical switchbox has an inductor in it, which acts like a short circuit to DC. Short circuit = BAD! Your method puts DC power into the console all right, but also: puts DC power into the RF cable going to the switchbox (if used) and television, allows the RF signal from the console to go into the AC adapter (which may weaken and/or distort it somewhat), and allows RF noise from the AC adapter into the console and television. EDIT: I see you're in Australia -- I don't know if that makes a difference, but for the U.S. the method shown in your photo would be unacceptable. Edited December 13, 2007 by A.J. Franzman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARMIK Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Because doing it that way may cook any or all of the following: TV, 5200 console, AC adapter, and switchbox! A standard Atari mechanical switchbox has an inductor in it, which acts like a short circuit to DC. Short circuit = BAD! Your method puts DC power into the console all right, but also: puts DC power into the RF cable going to the switchbox (if used) and television, allows the RF signal from the console to go into the AC adapter (which may weaken and/or distort it somewhat), and allows RF noise from the AC adapter into the console and television. EDIT: I see you're in Australia -- I don't know if that makes a difference, but for the U.S. the method shown in your photo would be unacceptable. Thanks ill look into it it seems to work fine the work was done by 8bitdomain when he did my A/V mod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.J. Franzman Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 (edited) Why remove LB i just had this done for me but it looks like you just solder at these two points no diode capacitor or anything. Because doing it that way may cook any or all of the following: TV, 5200 console, AC adapter, and switchbox! A standard Atari mechanical switchbox has an inductor in it, which acts like a short circuit to DC. Short circuit = BAD! Your method puts DC power into the console all right, but also: puts DC power into the RF cable going to the switchbox (if used) and television, allows the RF signal from the console to go into the AC adapter (which may weaken and/or distort it somewhat), and allows RF noise from the AC adapter into the console and television. EDIT: I see you're in Australia -- I don't know if that makes a difference, but for the U.S. the method shown in your photo would be unacceptable. Thanks ill look into it it seems to work fine the work was done by 8bitdomain when he did my A/V mod Taking another look at your photo, there appears to have been more done than just adding a power jack wired directly to the board. In that same area, the white legend printed on the board shows a component outline but the component itself is not present. Also, the large filter capacitor seems to have been replaced with a much smaller one. I would not be surprised if there were changes on the bottom of the board too. Edited December 13, 2007 by A.J. Franzman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow460 Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Looks to me in his photo that the cap and LB have both been removed already, and the cap replaced. It's been a long time since anyone's been inside my 5200, but I vaguely remember what that section of the board looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.J. Franzman Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 (edited) Well, I've only ever opened one up once, and at that time I didn't have the right power supply for it so I did a temporary no-special-switchbox mod just for testing, and I don't remember there being another inductor (or is that a high-power resistor?) right beside L8. (Yes, it's L8, not LB folks!) But of course I could be mistaken. I don't remember there being any need to add a diode as HARMIK mentioned in post #40, either. Edited December 13, 2007 by A.J. Franzman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 (edited) Actually the replacement motherboards from Best come with the smaller capacitor. And the part that is missing is just the RF lead (the metal bit that solders into the board) which is of no use in a PAL country if you are using AV out Edited December 13, 2007 by mimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Why remove LB i just had this done for me but it looks like you just solder at these two points no diode capacitor or anything. Because doing it that way may cook any or all of the following: TV, 5200 console, AC adapter, and switchbox! A standard Atari mechanical switchbox has an inductor in it, which acts like a short circuit to DC. Short circuit = BAD! Your method puts DC power into the console all right, but also: puts DC power into the RF cable going to the switchbox (if used) and television, allows the RF signal from the console to go into the AC adapter (which may weaken and/or distort it somewhat), and allows RF noise from the AC adapter into the console and television. EDIT: I see you're in Australia -- I don't know if that makes a difference, but for the U.S. the method shown in your photo would be unacceptable. so if RF was never to be used again, would it be ok (safe) to tap straight into the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARMIK Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Actually the replacement motherboards from Best come with the smaller capacitor. And the part that is missing is just the RF lead (the metal bit that solders into the board) which is of no use in a PAL country if you are using AV out Yes the board is from best but even with AV you still need a TV that can take NTSC when i was a kid i had a 5200 but would it not work on any tv's from here so i got a small 14" from sears. TV's that can take NTSC and PALL are relatively new here, i still have my first 5200 which is still RF and that will also will only work on newer TV's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Actually the replacement motherboards from Best come with the smaller capacitor. And the part that is missing is just the RF lead (the metal bit that solders into the board) which is of no use in a PAL country if you are using AV out Yes the board is from best but even with AV you still need a TV that can take NTSC when i was a kid i had a 5200 but would it not work on any tv's from here so i got a small 14" from sears. TV's that can take NTSC and PALL are relatively new here, i still have my first 5200 which is still RF and that will also will only work on newer TV's True Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phonedork Posted December 29, 2007 Share Posted December 29, 2007 Why is it "pesky"? Great mod btw. Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA Its pesky because you are forced to use that shitty RF! And being a RF engineer for T-mobile, I know RF and power bleed over to cause terrible reception! They should be seperated! But maybe you just like the orginal equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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