Atari 5200 - 4 port - power modification. WARNING: BIG !

[+-^CrossBow^-]

I have a few suggestions I've made to them already and will be testing one of those ideas this weekend. I'm sure it will work just fine but it will add to the cost of the kit by a buck or two. Still for the ease of looking professional still and giving a means to pull power when needed to service the system in the future, it would be worth it I think.

 

The other idea presented by @DarthCloud is also an excellent idea. But the methods I came up with would allow use of the RF modulator still.

 

[+-^CrossBow^-]

I've gone ahead and done a video of the installation process to do the 4-port RF power bypass kit installation from console5. I do use one thing differently in my video and that is the use of a DC approved cable disconnect/connect wiring harness that I can buy locally. I've also spoke with Console5 about it and it might be something that gets added to kits in the future as an additional option for more money of course. Still, this is a really easy modification to do on relatively and honestly, more of a required modification at this point for the 4-port units. Hopefully it useful to those wanting to do this on their 5200s and help to make the process more clearly understood. Thank you for criticisms up front and for watching!

 

 

[+-^CrossBow^-]

On 8/13/2018 at 11:23 AM, DarthVaper said:

well I have a problem finishing the power mod. Like the manuals mention it should look like this https://www.google.com/search?q=atari+5200+power+mod&client=firefox-b-ab&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=uLm1bIWwpZgs_M%253A%252CW36HYdoraqNtlM%252C_&usg=AFrqEzd-SFe-f_Jd0ZXS4R-gAiqgTLqkbA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwir6buztercAhWS6aQKHcgaBkgQ9QEwDnoECAUQCA#imgrc=uLm1bIWwpZgs_M:

 

But on my 5200 4port it looks like this:

 

Any advice would be helpfull, didn't want to scratch something down...

@DarthVaper Did you happen to notice which rev of the board you had that was different? I'm asking because my video I just made featured the same board and I noted that in the video. However, what I didn't think about was the fact that the actual negative vias in this newer revision board are in nearly the same spot as the two vias that exist for the anchor point for the large filter cap on the older and more common revision boards. Those anchor vias aren't attached to anything electrically. So if a person uses my video as a guide but has the older revision board, they are likely to attach their ground and negative cap lead into one of those anchor vias and naturally, it won't power on. I know this because another DIY stated this in a FB group for the 5200 having issues getting their to work. After I spoke with them, it was found they used my video as their guide but due to the differences in the board, they were confused on where to attach the ground.

 

So... if I knew the board rev I could add that to the title graphic and video description stating it is for that revision only and then see about making another vid later for the more common 4-port units. And no..I didn't note the revision when I worked on the one I had in the video because I just didn't think it would be that big an issue going forward at the time. It was a client's 5200 and no longer in my possession and safely back with its owner at this point.

 

Does anyone have any idea on which rev board DarthVapor's board is?

 

[MMarcoux66]

So I bought the Console5 kit before they added the quick disconnect. Finally getting around to installing it. Is there an Amazon link for that connector that I can order some? I like the idea of having that in there. I am not finding one that looks like in the new kit. Probably just overlooking it but want to install it right the first time!

[+-^CrossBow^-]

I'm not sure where C5 is sourcing that wire harness from. Before they started to offer it I was getting my own locally from Ace hardware and the like. The one I was using is designed for wiring up power to trailers and designed for 12v high amperage use so the one I was using for a while was thicker gauge and more bulky overall but still gave me a great way to have a connect/disconnect on the wiring to make servicing the system easier. Let me see if I can find what I was using and post a link....

 

Yeap...found it. It is known as a 2-pole wire harness designed for trailer lights. Here is the link for one at Amazon as an example.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-2-Pole-Flat-Extension/dp/B0002Q80RW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2+pole+flat+connector&qid=1659383474&sr=8-3

 

 

 

 

[Fragman]

I purchased and installed the Console5 kit. Works like a champ. Thank you so much for the pics, it always helps to make sure you are doing it correctly.

Only thing is I felt that the connector in the kit is a little flimsy. But then how often do I plan to take it apart? 

I went ahead and picked up one of those trailer wire harnesses at the same store I got a replacement 4013 chip (just 3 bucks for the harness because they don't need to bake shipping into the price like Amazon has to) so may go ahead and make a new lead if it really ends up bothering me. 

[+-^CrossBow^-]

1 hour ago, Fragman said:

I purchased and installed the Console5 kit. Works like a champ. Thank you so much for the pics, it always helps to make sure you are doing it correctly.

Only thing is I felt that the connector in the kit is a little flimsy. But then how often do I plan to take it apart? 

I went ahead and picked up one of those trailer wire harnesses at the same store I got a replacement 4013 chip (just 3 bucks for the harness because they don't need to bake shipping into the price like Amazon has to) so may go ahead and make a new lead if it really ends up bothering me. 

My personal 5200 uses a trailer wire harness as I felt it was a better solution. But the ones the C5 provides are good for what is needed. I've used their harnesses in everyone else's 5200s and in many instances had to plug/unplug while working on other stuff and never had the connector come apart or anything. So yeah for as little as it will be needed or possibly never needed. What they are providing is totally up to task.

[LANC3L0T]

On 4/7/2020 at 9:02 AM, -^CrossBow^- said:

I've gone ahead and done a video of the installation process to do the 4-port RF power bypass kit installation from console5. I do use one thing differently in my video and that is the use of a DC approved cable disconnect/connect wiring harness that I can buy locally. I've also spoke with Console5 about it and it might be something that gets added to kits in the future as an additional option for more money of course. Still, this is a really easy modification to do on relatively and honestly, more of a required modification at this point for the 4-port units. Hopefully it useful to those wanting to do this on their 5200s and help to make the process more clearly understood. Thank you for criticisms up front and for watching!

Thanks for adding the video -^CrossBow^-, it really does help.  I recently picked up two Atari 5200 systems from eBay, and successfully modded both of them using the Console5 kits.  Neither system came with the RF box or power supply, so this mod was a cheap and easy way to test out both systems with the generic 5200 power supply that I also picked up from Console5.

 

I am amazed at how robust all of Atari's systems are.  Over the last 2 years, I probably bought around 15 systems off ebay (between the 2600, 5200 and 7800).  And only one system did not work (I had to replace one of the chips to get that 2600 working).  All but 1 of the 150+ game cartridges I bought work just fine (some obviously needed the pins cleaned).  The low failure rate and support from the AtariAge community makes collecting the systems and games a blast for me.  FYI: I will admit that the 5200 joysticks need a lot of TLC, but I was able to get them both working after cleaning the contacts and carbon dots.  🙂

[+-^CrossBow^-]

8 hours ago, LANC3L0T said:

Thanks for adding the video -^CrossBow^-, it really does help.  I recently picked up two Atari 5200 systems from eBay, and successfully modded both of them using the Console5 kits.  Neither system came with the RF box or power supply, so this mod was a cheap and easy way to test out both systems with the generic 5200 power supply that I also picked up from Console5.

 

I am amazed at how robust all of Atari's systems are.  Over the last 2 years, I probably bought around 15 systems off ebay (between the 2600, 5200 and 7800).  And only one system did not work (I had to replace one of the chips to get that 2600 working).  All but 1 of the 150+ game cartridges I bought work just fine (some obviously needed the pins cleaned).  The low failure rate and support from the AtariAge community makes collecting the systems and games a blast for me.  FYI: I will admit that the 5200 joysticks need a lot of TLC, but I was able to get them both working after cleaning the contacts and carbon dots.  🙂

I'm glad you found the video helpful. We do have the pinned thread that goes into the detail of this as well, but it might be hard to follow for some which, is why I decided to make the video at the time. 

 

[LANC3L0T]

2 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

I'm glad you found the video helpful. We do have the pinned thread that goes into the detail of this as well, but it might be hard to follow for some which, is why I decided to make the video at the time. 

 

I actually used that information too, but watching your video helped a lot!!  I am a novice at solder work, but this process is quite easy with some solder wick and my cheap solder gun.  The most difficult step for me was drilling out a hold in the back of the 5200 for the plug.  The plastic is quite strong and my largest drill bit was too small, so I had to use sandpaper to make the hole large enough.  I need to get a dremel!!

 

Here is a link to the $20 solder gun kit that I bought from Amazon.  You get a lot of nice stuff for a VERY cheap price.  And unlike a more expensive solder gun that I bought, these tips do not deteriorate within the first few uses.

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Kit-Temperature-Desoldering-Electronics/dp/B07GTGGLXN?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

 

Also, I know a lot of people gripe about how awful RF video looks, but the RF video on both my 5200 units is very close to composite video.  I wonder how many people don't know that modern TV's can still tune in the signal from these old systems.  You just need one of these cheap adapters:

https://console5.com/store/rca-to-f-type-converter.html

Console5 should include or suggest one of these along with the 4 port power mod kit.

[ApolloBoy]

I recently got a 4-port 5200 with a factory power jack mod, and thought I'd post some closeups of it to compare. Note that in the first pic, I wound up replacing the input wires as they were originally very thin Kynar wire. It seems to be pretty much the same as this mod, but without the protection diode and without the removal of the 4700 uF filter cap. The only component that was removed was L8 and the RF cable is plugged into the RCA jack on the mobo.

[Tidus79001]

On 2/7/2023 at 12:59 AM, LANC3L0T said:

Thanks for adding the video -^CrossBow^-, it really does help.  I recently picked up two Atari 5200 systems from eBay, and successfully modded both of them using the Console5 kits.  Neither system came with the RF box or power supply, so this mod was a cheap and easy way to test out both systems with the generic 5200 power supply that I also picked up from Console5.

 

I am amazed at how robust all of Atari's systems are.  Over the last 2 years, I probably bought around 15 systems off ebay (between the 2600, 5200 and 7800).  And only one system did not work (I had to replace one of the chips to get that 2600 working).  All but 1 of the 150+ game cartridges I bought work just fine (some obviously needed the pins cleaned).  The low failure rate and support from the AtariAge community makes collecting the systems and games a blast for me.  FYI: I will admit that the 5200 joysticks need a lot of TLC, but I was able to get them both working after cleaning the contacts and carbon dots.  🙂

 

@-^CrossBow^- did a power jack mod for me on a 4 port Atari 5200 I picked up several years ago off eBay and it is still working like that.  Thanks for that mod!  Really glad that we have knowledge guys like you here on AtariAge who can advise on this sort of thing and are willing to take on mod job for those who don't do solder or mod work.

 

I didn't realize until after I got that 4 port 5200 that it used a different power supply then the 2 port model.  I had thought I would just use the 2 port power supply since the 4 port wasn't coming with one. Then I found out after I received it that it had that proprietary UHF/power adapter thing Atari made for the 5200. I then recalled I had seen a 5200 review some time prior to that where the Angry Video Game Nerd saying that when he powered on his Atari 5200 the box would make a loud popping noise and there he as just exaggerating and making it up for dramatic effect as I had never heard of such a thing and had no idea what he was talking about that could cause a power supply to pop where the system is power on. Obviously the that supply must be making a huge arc or something internally if it is producing such a sound.  Also, my understanding is that his was clear to a lot of people that for safety purposes the power adapter should be connected to the RF box before plugging the adapter into AC so as to not risk getting the crap shock out of you.  That thing is a deathtrap and I had already had a house fire a few year before and I don't need that again so I had -^CrossBow^- mod the console and now it can use the same power supply that the 2 port models do and connect to a TV the same as 2 port model.

 

I was explained to me by the -^CrossBow^- that since there is an asterisk in the serial number on the console it mean it has a newer board revision than the earlier 4 port models and can use the Atari 2600 VCS adapter as well as play Pitfall, Mountain King and K-Razy Shootout which would not be possible with the BIOS on the earlier 4 port units that don't have the asterisk.  I didn't know any of this about the 4 port consoles when I bought it and I really lucked out.  Overall the system is in great shape and even with the mod install the total cost wasn't an arm & leg.

Edited September 23, 2023 by Tidus79001

[ApolloBoy]

On 9/22/2023 at 8:45 PM, Tidus79001 said:

I was explained to me by the -^CrossBow^- that since there is an asterisk in the serial number on the console it mean it has a newer board revision than the earlier 4 port models and can use the Atari 2600 VCS adapter as well as play Pitfall, Mountain King and K-Razy Shootout which would not be possible with the BIOS on the earlier 4 port units that don't have the asterisk.

Actually those games are compatible on all other 4-ports, it's just that the 2600 adapter doesn't work on them because the cartridge port isn't properly wired for it.