Ignorama Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 @ grips I am working out a safe solution, maybe I give you a swiss adress But about the AA-solution? Does that mean no Power Supply, or is it an option to use batteries or Power Supply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 14, 2013 Author Share Posted July 14, 2013 (edited) @ grips I am working out a safe solution, maybe I give you a swiss adress But about the AA-solution? Does that mean no Power Supply, or is it an option to use batteries or Power Supply? I've been using with AC adapter, but sometimes the extra cord gets annoying. If the AC outlet is near Intv its not that bad, but the wife got a Nintendo and I had to move the Intv to the right on the coffee table and now one cord is going left and one goes right. Plan is to test with 2xAA and see how long the battery lasts and to see how well the new battery holder fits in the case. On the shipping, I'm sure we can figure something out when ready to ship. Edited July 14, 2013 by grips03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 (edited) I now have it working on Xilinx CPLD with 1.8v. I'm still waiting on the battery holder to see which will fit best. Then I can starting how long the battery will last. Edited July 21, 2013 by grips03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 (edited) Here is picture of Adafruit proto board with Xilinx CPLD http://www.flickr.co...N08/9346708002/ Strip board component converts to 5v to 1.8v. Since Xilinx support internal pull up resistors I was able to reduce components and still keep .7mm pin pitch. I'm still waiting on the panel mount battery holders Edited July 22, 2013 by grips03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wongojack Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Wow - that is soooo much cleaner looking then your Beta version. Nice job with the design; very elegant. This is probably in the thread somewhere, but what do you use the 4th button for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignorama Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 (edited) Where is the num-pad? Edited July 22, 2013 by Ignorama Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wongojack Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Where is the num-pad? Good point - no keypad in that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 that one doesn't have the number pad yet. it will I'm going to design the the Xilinx PCB over next couple of days I just wish the battery holders got here so I can figure out the LDO I want to use. Anyone know how long airmail from Japan is suppose to take? They sent on July 5, but so far nothing. Internal wire mess will be better than before but not quite that clean. The stuff I've cleaned up is reordering the keypad header to reduce the fold. Also switching to JST-XH connectors on the 110/187 leads to the switches / joystick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 Wow - that is soooo much cleaner looking then your Beta version. Nice job with the design; very elegant. This is probably in the thread somewhere, but what do you use the 4th button for? Button D = S1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignorama Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 I dont really understand it: Do you want to build this controller with Power Supply and batteries, so the player can choose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 I dont really understand it: Do you want to build this controller with Power Supply and batteries, so the player can choose? originally I was building to use AC adapter only. right now I'm building so that it takes 2xAA batteries or 9v only. This is because some AC outlets might not be near the Intv2/Sears and when you have two cords (controller + power) going in different directions it very annoying. Another thing that can happen is that the cords become different length, such as when AC outlet is on the floor (power strip) and the Intv is on the table and human on the couch. You think you have room to move controller as one cord is loose, but then you find out other cord is shorter due to location of AC outlet. If that doesn't work I'm build like I was building before with AC adapter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Great news they are resending the battery holder via EMS at no cost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkcharmer Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I'm in for one if it's not too late. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 I'm in for one if it's not too late. . . added to backorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 new PCB ordered. Hopefully this is the one. I'll know more in 3 weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 (edited) what the 3rd PCB should look like Edited July 30, 2013 by grips03 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) Testing with battery, so now its a single cord device I'm using MCP1640 (DC to DC step up) and single cell AA and ucurrent (eevblog) Current draw: 325ua idle 450 ua quick button / direction press ranges from 450ua to ~3ma for button/direction held max current is around 3.8ma (press and hold all keypad buttons) that means single AA cell (2000mah) should have around 368 hours worse case - 4307 hours best case. I've noticed some PWM noise (I think it is what it is) when using single cell, so I might switch to multiple cells, 9v, or CR2032. If someone can find a very nice panel mount battery holder for 3xAA or CR2032 let me know. Unless people don't mind opening the case (4 screws) to change the battery. Even a CR2032 should power the device for a minimum of 37 hours (~200mah), more likely is double that. Now if you read this far, who here plays the Intv a ton? If you live in the US, please PM me. Edited August 1, 2013 by grips03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignorama Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) So the Power Supply is out? Hm, not sure if I like it, batteries are not my cup of tea. But its your descision. Edit: But to point it out: If I am on the way to a new Highscore-Challenge record and your controller runs out of batterie, I'll proceed against you Edited August 1, 2013 by Ignorama Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 So the Power Supply is out? Hm, not sure if I like it, batteries are not my cup of tea. But its your descision. I think so, two cords did get kind of annoying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 ok, I've left the controller on for 2 days and it still works, even on single AA battery. I got a new battery holder to try today. I'm going to swap it in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oscar G. Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 My Wavebird controller on the GameCube (one of the best wireless controllers ever BTW) uses AA batteries. I'm quoting a forum entry: "The Wavebird's battery life is absolutely astounding. I accidentally left one on for three weeks before sitting down for some Ikaruga and squeezing out another ~30 hours of playtime on a single pair of AAs." (http://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/41635/wavebird-is-it-really-the-cat-s-pajamas) You can get over 100 hour play time with 2 AA batteries. So personally I think the AA battery might be the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignorama Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Sounds good. Do you know when its done? I am away for two weeks from monday, dont know if I have internet. But I guess it take more time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oscar G. Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I understand Ignorama's concern that the battery may die on you in a key moment (Murphy's law). However I think that if you play for a high score, it would be a good idea to start with freshly reloaded batteries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+grips03 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 you mean before they ship? I would say 6 weeks. This is mainly due to PCB time. if you mean the battery, just look back a couple of posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignorama Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I ment before I have to pay my controller, but in six weeks I am back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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