Okay guys...school me on the PC engine!

[+thegoldenband]

I've been thinking about getting into the PC Engine too. A seller at Pcenginefx.com has briefcase setups (PC Engine + Super CD-ROM² with fresh gears + System Card 3.0) for $215 and recapped Duos for $225, and occasionally has Duo-Rs for $245. I'd be pretty much 100% using burned Taiyo Yuden discs, and a Turbo EverDrive.

 

Which of those options would be the best bet for me? Are there any weird gotchas in using a Japanese system -- would I need a region switch? I'd eventually want to get an Arcade Card as well, for the Art of Fighting port.

[mickcris]

I have a briefcase and a few duos. All of them read cdrs fine. Just use Tayio yuden discs and they shoud read fine. If not, your system might need a pot adjustment or new lens.

Edited May 15, 2015 by mickcris

[+thegoldenband]

I have a briefcase and a few duos. All of them read cdrs fine. Just use Tayio yuden discs and they shoud read fine. If not, your system might need a pot adjustment or new lens.

 

Cool, thanks for that info. I've had great luck on all systems with Taiyo Yuden discs. Do you plug your systems directly into the outlet/power strip, or do you use a stepdown transformer to bring the voltage down to 100v?

[Gredler]

These? http://www.amazon.com/Taiyo-Yuden-JVC-80min-Silver/dp/B00065DGYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1431735122&sr=8-1&keywords=taiyo+yuden+disc

[mickcris]

 

Cool, thanks for that info. I've had great luck on all systems with Taiyo Yuden discs. Do you plug your systems directly into the outlet/power strip, or do you use a stepdown transformer to bring the voltage down to 100v?

 

I just use the 100v supplies in the US.

 

These? http://www.amazon.com/Taiyo-Yuden-JVC-80min-Silver/dp/B00065DGYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1431735122&sr=8-1&keywords=taiyo+yuden+disc

 

Yeah, those should work. I think those are the same ones I have with the shiny top.

[darthkur]

Definitely get a Duo. Getting to use cd-r's is a huge advantage. So many great cd games. A duo-r (white) would probably be better than the original (black) since, I believe, better quality caps were used. I own an original and have had to replace the caps in mine.

[Rhomaios]

I've been thinking about getting into the PC Engine too. A seller at Pcenginefx.com has briefcase setups (PC Engine + Super CD-ROM² with fresh gears + System Card 3.0) for $215 and recapped Duos for $225, and occasionally has Duo-Rs for $245. I'd be pretty much 100% using burned Taiyo Yuden discs, and a Turbo EverDrive.

 

Which of those options would be the best bet for me? Are there any weird gotchas in using a Japanese system -- would I need a region switch? I'd eventually want to get an Arcade Card as well, for the Art of Fighting port.

 

If it ever coems up, I'd say get the Duo R. Ask him about modding it, though. There are a couple guys there who can do that.

[Austin]

Yeah, don't bother with a Super Grafx. It's too much money now for its own good. 1941 and Ghouls 'n Ghosts are pretty damn good ports, but not worth the extra money for those two games though (no other Super Grafx game is worth it, IMO).

A Core Grafx II should run you $100. More if you want CIB. That is the model I recommend if you aren't aiming for CD.

If you want CD compatibility, buy a PC Engine DUO.

I just use the 100v supplies in the US.

 

Me too. No issues whatsoever.

I've been thinking about getting into the PC Engine too.

 

WTF? You're not already? Seriously man, I had no idea!

 

This should be the next thing on your gaming "to-do" list. I mean, you've gotten into the 3DO heavily, love the Genesis, but haven't touched the PC Engine? SACRILEGE!!!!!

[+thegoldenband]

If it ever coems up, I'd say get the Duo R. Ask him about modding it, though. There are a couple guys there who can do that.

 

Alas, answers breed more questions. Other than size and sexiness, is there a reason to get the Duo R over a recapped Duo? The vendor does offer region mods, but do I need one if I'm strictly using an EverDrive?

 

WTF? You're not already? Seriously man, I had no idea!

 

This should be the next thing on your gaming "to-do" list. I mean, you've gotten into the 3DO heavily, love the Genesis, but haven't touched the PC Engine? SACRILEGE!!!!!

 

I feel like I've confessed to having a "social disease" here! In my defense, I've never even encountered a TG-16 in the wild, whereas I've seen at least two 3DOs. I've kept my eyes open for a good deal at a flea market or online, but I guess I'll just have to bite the wax tadpole and buy one at market rate.

 

I've also found the bewildering array of hardware to be quite confusing: "This model has this, this one has that, this one has bad caps, this one has no AV out without buying an expensive add-on", etc. But my sense is that by buying a recapped PC Engine Duo or Duo-R + eventually buying the Arcade Duo card = I'll be covered for everything but SuperGrafx games, Altered Beast, and a few weird pirate games that require a special card.

[Rhomaios]

Alas, answers breed more questions. Other than size and sexiness, is there a reason to get the Duo R over a recapped Duo? The vendor does offer region mods, but do I need one if I'm strictly using an EverDrive?

If you're strictly using an EverDrive, then no, no need to mod. As far as Duo vs. Duo R goes, although I myself just have a Duo, I wish I had gotten an R. Everywhere I've read says that the R is more reliable. It's a lightweight machine, for sure. Nothing broken yet (except a stuck laser once, but that's an easy fix).

 

I've also found the bewildering array of hardware to be quite confusing: "This model has this, this one has that, this one has bad caps, this one has no AV out without buying an expensive add-on", etc. But my sense is that by buying a recapped PC Engine Duo or Duo-R + eventually buying the Arcade Duo card = I'll be covered for everything but SuperGrafx games, Altered Beast, and a few weird pirate games that require a special card.

Yep, if you just get a recapped Duo (whichever kind), an Arcade Card Duo, and an Everdrive, you're set.

[7800fan]

If you don't mind modding, a white PC Engine is cheaper than CoreGrafx. It can have composite and RGB right out of the board so a Genesis style video port is easy. S-Video is also possible but that requires a bit more work with transistor amp.

[CGQuarterly]

CC, please buy a Duo-R. It is by far the best system for playing PCE/Turbo games.

[Austin]

 

I feel like I've confessed to having a "social disease" here!

 

It's OK, we're here for you, man!

[7800]

Just pick up a coregrafx or coregrafx II and an everdrive. Those 2 models have av out so no need to worry about crappy RF. With an everdrive, you can play all US and JPN games.

This is exactly what I did. Core Grafx II is a nice little system. The Everdrive is the greatest thing since sliced bread.

 

I use a voltage converter though since Jap systems run on 100 volts... many say you don't need to, but I like to play it safe with old systems like that.

Edited May 19, 2015 by 7800

[CatPix]

Power transformers works with a tolerance range of 20% at least, so you can use your original one if you have it, or use a replacement.

 

The PC-E doesn't need a super precise power supply. Many systems don't, in fact; like the Megadrive 1 with their PSU rated 10V when they are fine with a 9V ones (even Sega provided 9V replacements PSU)

 

I also think that the power grid in Japan is closer to 110V, as equipments change over time.

 

Much like how Europe changed to 220 to 230 years ago with no noticeable uprise of failure in the power supplies of the time; and Great Britain still use 240V when all their electrical appliances are the same than the European market and therefore were "designed" for 220V or 230V.

 

Most, if not all power supplies are able to work on a range of 100 to 127V and/or 210 to 240V.

[7800]

I use the original power supply. I shouldn't have said voltage converter --- what I have is a step down transformer which transforms my 120 to 100... and I plug into that. I have a bunch of older Jap systems from the 80's and 90's, which are not necessarily rare, but can be expensive to replace... so I'd rather be safe than sorry.

[CatPix]

Japan have 120 volt supplies in militaries installations (probably due to the American "influence") and they don't use special appliances as far as regular stuff goes.

 

My Neo Geo CD works fine with my power transformer going from 230V to 110V, but as I said, 110V is into the 20% marging.

 

But you're right as you newer know what you have in hand, if the power supply is internally damaged or is a second hand poorly made one.

 

For that matter, the 50/60 htz is more of an issue, but thankfully, due to Japan having both, their power supplies work on both frequencies, or you can hunt for one of the right frequency depending on weither you're in Europe or USA

 

When you get standard power supplies, you might be better buying a replacement. As I said before, electricity isn't esoteric magic stuff.

You gotta get 3 things right :

Most important : frequency.

Important : watt/amp : less than needed is bad, the right amount is fine, more is fine (with a limit... if not for wasting money in a 5A power supply when you need 0,4A)

not that important usually for most systems : voltage.

Edited May 25, 2015 by CatPix

[Andromeda Stardust]

Japan have 120 volt supplies in militaries installations (probably due to the American "influence") and they don't use special appliances as far as regular stuff goes.

 

My Neo Geo CD works fine with my power transformer going from 230V to 110V, but as I said, 110V is into the 20% marging.

 

But you're right as you newer know what you have in hand, if the power supply is internally damaged or is a second hand poorly made one.

 

For that matter, the 50/60 htz is more of an issue, but thankfully, due to Japan having both, their power supplies work on both frequencies, or you can hunt for one of the right frequency depending on weither you're in Europe or USA

 

When you get standard power supplies, you might be better buying a replacement. As I said before, electricity isn't esoteric magic stuff.

You gotta get 3 things right :

Most important : frequency.

Important : watt/amp : less than needed is bad, the right amount is fine, more is fine (with a limit... if not for wasting money in a 5A power supply when you need 0,4A)

not that important usually for most systems : voltage.

I'm gonna say that minute changes in voltage and frequency do not matter. I (almost) have a degree in electrical engineering technology. For high power transformers ie distribution systems and such, 50 Hz will saturate the iron in the core moreso than 60Hz. As a result, a 60Hz transformer used in 50Hz grid will need to be derated by 20% as the iron will reach magnetic flux saturation at a smaller load. Heavy machinery such as electric induction motors could be damaged by running on higher cycles per second since their synchronous speed may become higher than permitted. All of this Hz BS is totally irrelavent for consumer electronics. There is a large filter capacitor in the AC-DC rectifier circuit that smoothes out the ripples. Running at lower Hz will create more ripple current and possibly raise the audible noise floor but the effect is so slight as to be irrelavant. Most if not all vintage game consoles use a 7805 DC-DC regulator to reduce the voltage to a stable 5V. This will assuredly remove any existing ripple current due to poor adapters. They generally have a safe working range anywhere from 7-11V and are generally fault tolerant to reverse polarity, however AC voltage or supplies in excess of 13-14V will put extreme stress on the part so best not to push 30 years old parts beyond their specs. Typically the console pulls 500mA or less and is supplied with an 850mA-1000mA adapter, more than adequate to meet current demand plus a little juice to spare for mods, flash carts, etc...

 

Plugging a 9V negative tip AC adapter meant for 100V into a 120V socket may put out up to 11V into the console which is still considered safe. Best to test the no-load voltage however. If a 9V adapter puts out 12V or more no load, it is junk and needs to be disposed of. Likewise the console shouldn't dip below 7V under load, but in general, too little juice is better than too much. If the VCC on your console dips below 5V, then either the regulator is bad or the adapter is not supplying sufficient Amps.

 

I will say this however. 100-120V US/Jap equipment on an 200-240V PAL grid definitely needs a step down transformer or you will quickly smoke your console. If you're lucky, the 7805 sacrifices itself protecting the guts on the motherboard.

 

However, the minute difference between 100-120V or 50Hz vs 60Hz mains is highly unlikely to damage anything and your console will operate normally. Most unregulated adapters specify 110V on the nameplate anyway so you're looking at maybe 8.2V for a 100V Japan supply and 9.8V for a 120V US supply. Feel free to mix and match US and Japanese hardware and adapters. You will not fry your game system; I promise...

 

Just DO NOT plug an NTSC NES 9V AC adapter into a Famicom, Super Fami, Genesis/MD, Turbo, or anything besides an NTSC NES, because it feeds AC not DC which could destroy the regulator circuit. And DO NOT plug a 9V negative tip barrel from a Famicom, Super Fami, Genesis, MD, or Turbo into a Jaguire as the Jag requires a 9V positive tip and will be destroyed by the unorthodox Voltage regulator circuit which is intolerant of polarity faults. Too many poor Jags likely died this way...

[CatPix]

And in your opinion(just a side note) since it output 2 different voltages, is it safe to plug a Bally Astrocade on a 50htz grid? I have one and never dared to take the risk, it is NOT a NES or a 2600

[Andromeda Stardust]

And in your opinion(just a side note) since it output 2 different voltages, is it safe to plug a Bally Astrocade on a 50htz grid? I have one and never dared to take the risk, it is NOT a NES or a 2600

If you live in Europe, you will need to use a 2:1 step down transformer or it will go up in smoke. Unless the device relies on the AC sine wave for providing a clock of some sort, the difference in line frequency will not matter (some very cheap alarm clocks did this - I was at my uncle's during an Ice storm once and he had a generator providing AC to the house - the generator was outputting something like 70Hz, and everything in the house worked fine except a silly alarm clock that gained 10 seconds every minute ). Everything gets converted to DC anyway.

[CatPix]

As I mentionned I have a regulated 230to 110v converter so I didn't mentioned it.

Well I'll try the Astrocade soon then. Those consoles are so flipsy I don't wanna add a power issue to it (given it survived a Transatlantic travel)