How do I check voltage after de soldering parts for LCD mod?

[Wyluli Wolf]

Stupid question I guess but how do I check the voltage for mcWills LCD mod?

I desoldered the parts as needed. Now do I need the old screen connected and ribbon cables plugged in before plugging in power adapter?

Then use multimeter on points shown?

Edited May 24, 2015 by Wyluli Wolf

[7800fan]

After you desoldered the components, the CCFL will not work and the power to drive old LCD (20v or so) is also cut off so putting old LCD back in won't work at all. The digital signal will be unaffected but I don't know if there would be proper reading or not.

 

As long as your Lynx is 100% working before you started, and followed the direction exactly it should be fine.

Edited May 25, 2015 by 7800fan

[LX.NET]

You seem to have one of the rarer boards (424). See also https://atarilynxdeveloper.wordpress.com/2013/09/01/lynx-model-2-hardware-revisions/

interesting to see if the mod works on that as well. Let us know.

Edited May 25, 2015 by LX.NET

[Wyluli Wolf]

That full copper plate on the back will be fun to work around. Not sure if I'll have to try and remove the entire thing.

 

The Lynx had an issue with the brightness level fluctuating. Figured this mod would resolve that.

 

I wonder if it matters if I use RES or TPR?

[Wyluli Wolf]

You seem to have one of the rarer boards (424). See also https://atarilynxdeveloper.wordpress.com/2013/09/01/lynx-model-2-hardware-revisions/

interesting to see if the mod works on that as well. Let us know.

Finished up the Mod and can confirm that it does indeed work

Gotta buy a new screen for it as the one I have has some deep scratches. Then I'll put her back together and post a pic

[cowdog360]

Consider the 5V regulator mod as well to make sure your screen doesn't get damaged when the original circuits fail!

[Wyluli Wolf]

The 5V regulator mod looks almost as fun as the LCD mod. I was thinking about skipping it but I'm sure you are right. I should do the mod to protect that screen. After all it's not cheap!

I assume severing the trace is just for using batteries. I only use an AC adapter with mine tho I guess I could sever the trace anyway....

 

Guess I'll go spend $20 to get a $7 part now

[StijnDW]

I see a lot of people thinking that the Lynx has a bad power supply design.

While it sure is a little complex especially due to the soft start design, it isn't necessarily that prone to defects.

 

The root cause of damage to the Lynx is the use of those way too cheap universal power supply's that don"t even have a regulator in them.

The old cheap & heavy ones are often nothing more that a transformer with multiple taps a few diodes and a capacitor.

I'm talking about the ones that look like this most of the time.

 

 

They are very prone to failure / over-voltage / noise / spikes

 

It's better to buy a more decent modern switching power supply that doesn't necessarily cost a lot of extra money

Like for example this one.

 

http://www.allekabels.nl/universele-adapter/5784/3588/universele-ac-dc-voeding.html

 

And when you have an option to choose between 7.5V or 9V; always choose 7.5V, its more then enough to supply the Lynx and it better.

Edited May 29, 2015 by StijnDW

[7800fan]

The 5V regulator mod looks almost as fun as the LCD mod. I was thinking about skipping it but I'm sure you are right. I should do the mod to protect that screen. After all it's not cheap!

I assume severing the trace is just for using batteries. I only use an AC adapter with mine tho I guess I could sever the trace anyway....

 

Guess I'll go spend $20 to get a $7 part now

 

Yes the trace is for the battery. Without the cut, the battery + line connects to the power rail after the new regulator. You wouldn't want to fry your Lynx? Thats why the trace is cut and a wire is added to divert the + line to *before* the regulator.

[TOSser]

To check the voltage you need the dpad ribbon cable connected, a game inserted and batteries or a dc power supply. Mine read 4.5v.