Hyperboy Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 @ 50TBRD...Good karma move! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) Since I intend to purchase 1 or even 2 of the new ones, you can send one of the new ones to Jason and Jason can send his old one to me. Well, this sound's like a good solution! Thank you! Jason, what do you say? Maybe you can settle things directly and just let me know, who get's what from me. Probably Jason one kit and Anthony one or two? Edited January 2, 2016 by Rolo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50TBRD Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 I would buy 2. You send 1 to Jason and 1 to me. Jason sends me his old one and pays shipping for his new unit. Essentially, Jason gets an upgrade for shipping away and shipping to him and I still get 2 units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Rolo, don't worry about semantics. If the second version is equivalent to the first just laid out slightly better, there really isn't much reason to upgrade. I'm guessing if the pieces are arranged or laid out better to make it more intuitive or easier to build into an enclosure? Regardless I am glad to see you're making improvements. I would love to own a Vex someday and this would be an instant purchase for me if I had a Vex to play it on. Keep up the good work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Thank you . Indeed, at the moment I'm just trying to make the mechanical things better and more flexible. The electrical part is somewhat settled. Of course, I could switch to microcontrollers to reduce number of components (I might do that someday), but that somehow does not feel retro. The console might get jealous, if the controller had more computational power, than the console itself . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pucpuc Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 thinking all the time how to arrange the buttons and which case I will get. I'm really looking forward building the controller On the pic of Rolos build the 24mm buttons look a bit big compared with the stick. Can anybody recommend good 16mm buttons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 thinking all the time how to arrange the buttons and which case I will get. I'm really looking forward building the controller On the pic of Rolos build the 24mm buttons look a bit big compared with the stick. Can anybody recommend good 16mm buttons? I used a metal "anti vandal" automotive button to plug a 16mm hole for use as a home button on my joystick. It works, but they are expensive and not well suited for use as action buttons. Stiff and too slow to press for fast action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pucpuc Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I used a metal "anti vandal" automotive button to plug a 16mm hole for use as a home button on my joystick. It works, but they are expensive and not well suited for use as action buttons. Stiff and too slow to press for fast action. yes, I've made the same experience the 16mm I've tested is o.k for a door bell but not for gaming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) Be warned, I tried this before. Most regular buttons, you find in electronics stores, simply are not good for game playing. Most of them need too much force. After 500 shots your forearm turns into a dark colour and suddenly falls of. Arcade buttons are big, but compare on the picture below, "my" buttons are almost same size as the original Vectrex buttons. I'm already using the small 24mm diameter parts instead oft the big 30mm ones (->Competition Pro). If you want real small ones (gameboy-like) like on modern controllers, I don't know any other solution, than maybe modifying such a controller somehow. You might take the upper part of a controller case and attach it completely onto a new case or something like that... Edited January 3, 2016 by Rolo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliptitude Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) Rolo, don't worry. I don't feel ripped off or entitled to a replacement or anything. It just looks like your new board will allow more enclosure options, which appeals to me. You're right there is not much that makes sense with a postal exchange between Germany and U.S. Perhaps you could offer the new populated board (purchased) by itself? Would this save much? Since I intend to purchase 1 or even 2 of the new ones, you can send one of the new ones to Jason and Jason can send his old one to me.That's a nice offer Tony. If you are sure you want to do it then I'd be happy to go along. .. Would it be easier to just send the boards, or maybe they should stay together as kits? If I'm the only one who cares to upgrade and if Tony is willing to do this then there's nothing else to figure out i guess. Edited January 3, 2016 by gliptitude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Thanks everybody! Main concern is, that everybody is satisfied and happy with what he/she get's. If we just can make it that way, that's easy and a good solution ! Shipping within the US probably is not so expensive, is it? If I don't hear anything about this anymore, I'll ship one kit to Anthony and one to Jason, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pucpuc Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I'm thinking of using a similar layout as shown o the picture. Are you using this case? Pult-Gehäuse Kunststoff Blau-Grau, Silber TEKO 363 https://www.conrad.de/de/pult-gehaeuse-kunststoff-blau-grau-silber-teko-363-1-st-523976.html (A x B x C x D x E) 215 x 130 x 65 x 75 x 46 mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 In that photo, yes. A little bit bulky, but plenty of space. I cut the protruding rim, to make it more comfortable. You can make your own wooden housing, like shown above, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 I have to show you this: You may like to know, how I'm cutting my pcbs (or not ). Well I found a, I think one could call it, geeky way to do so. Some might know the kid's construction system "Fischertechnik", a very technical toy, as the name already suggests. That's my original stuff from back in the day. I love it! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 ^^Nice! Kinda like a 1.5 inch (37mm) table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 project update: Making things... Cables still missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 project update: The board connector cables are here and I can start shipping the next couple of days. I'll soon post a small how-to, to show a few options, how things can be put together and how they ought to be wired. But that's a pretty simple procedure. I'll go through my list of PMs (preordered kits) and pack the cardboard boxes according to your individual wishes. I'll sent PMs. Price still is 55 US$ plus shipping1). 1) I'm shipping as "registered letters" with "Deutsche Post". They increased prices of their service: International shipping is 3.70€ + 2.50€ (registering) = 6.20€ (~ 6,70US$) now. -Rolo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 I want to start my little "tutorial" about wiring the Vectrex Controller Kit. The pcb is constructed like that: On the left hand side there are the circuits for auto-firing of button 3 and on the right hand side the same for button 4. If you mount the board upside down (solder side up), then left and right swaps, which means you have to swap the wiring for button 3 and 4, too. We'll see this later (option 3). Those parts of the pcb are important for you: You solder the joystick cable leading to the VECTREX here. You see the pads of four buttons (P1 ... P4), the two directions (P5, P6) and two voltages (P7, P9) and ground (P8). You remember the according lines of the DB9-plug? Look above at: http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_11_2015/post-32856-0-32268500-1447450843.jpg. Again, I would like to point out, that the colors of the wires, within the joystick cable, not always are the same. It is necessary to use a multimeter to measure, which color leads to which pin of the DB9-plug. This is the part, where you connect the four arcade buttons: Again, if you mount the pcb upside down, you swap buttons 3 and 4, otherwise the left LED shows button 4 operation and vice-versa! This picture shows the labeled terminal of the uncut board. If you don't cut the board, you can leave it like that. All connections are already there. When using a cut pcb, a plugable cable is used to make the connections. You see the pads for button 3 and 4? That's where you also cross cables, when mounting upside down. I hope the electrical part is clear and not confusing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 The mechanical part There are many ways to build the Vectrex Controller Kit into your own joystick. I just want to present three possibilities. And I show how to fasten the boards on a panel/case. Option 1: Leave the pcb uncut This is the easiest way. You only have to deal with one part, which you attach with the help of six long distance rollers to the front panel. LEDs and pots can be soldered/mounted into the pcb, switches and buttons would be fastened on the panel and connected by wires to the pcb. The potentiometers' axes have to be cut to the proper length. The potentiometers can be connected by short (1 cm) wires to the pcb. Option 2: Cut pcb, all parts component-side up This offers some flexibility. With cut pcb you can place the auto-firing electronics, where you need it (i.e. left-handers!). The analog stick again is mounted with four long distance rollers. The electronics part is fastened with two shorter (10 mm) rollers, long enough for the components to fit into the gap between panel and pcb. Again LEDs (longer legs) and pots can be soldered/mounted into the pcb, switches need to be fastened on the panel and connected by wires. The potentiometers' axes have to be cut to the proper length. Option 3: Cut pcb, auto-firing solder-side up If you want to minimize wiring, you can put everything directly onto the pcb. Again you have the flexibility of a cut pcb. You solder LEDs, pots and switches on the solder-side of the board, like shown below. You mount short 5mm rollers on that side, too. Since there are no components in your way, you can mount the pcb directly beneath the panel (distance 5 mm). Even the switches will look out of the panel's cut-outs. The potentiometers' axes have to be cut to the proper length. To compensate for swapping sides, you have to wire arcade button 3 to the button pads of button 4 and vice-versa. Equally you have to swap blue and yellow (terminal button 3 and button 4) of the pcb connecting cable. Notice how the pots are connected to the pcb. Concerning the cut-outs of the panel, please look above, at: http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_11_2015/post-32856-0-61646200-1447450853.jpg. Anything missing Have fun! -Rolo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 Kit-builders: When screwing in the central screw of the stick, please keep in mind, that this is only an additional stiffening (which is not really necessary). There is no thread inside the hole of the axis of the analog controller and the screw is just a tiny, little bit thicker. This can't withstand a real torque momentum. Just screw it in, until you notice a slight increase of resistance, indicating you're at the end. Stop screwing, don't try to give it a little final extra torque. You can put in a little drop of superglue (better be quick) or plastic-glue before mounting, to provide a firm seat for the screw. Is the information in the posts above sufficient to build your controlles? Do you need more? Something missing? -Rolo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 project update: I'm making good progress in shipping the kits and I PM'ed all registered preorders. The kits of the people, I could get in contact with, are packed now or have already been shipped. This means, I could process a couple of new orders now. If you want one of the kits, this is a good time, to register on the list. -Rolo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 @Vectrexer: please read your PMs. -Rolo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 @Hyperboy: I hope you still get my PMs. There is a red "BLOCK" sign below your name in the PM section, whatever this means. I did not click it. I don't see that at my other PMs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 @Hyperboy: I hope you still get my PMs. There is a red "BLOCK" sign below your name in the PM section, whatever this means. I did not click it. I don't see that at my other PMs. Everybody gets those. Do not click the "BLOCK" icon as it will bar the user from communicating with you. You cannot "block" mods or administrators... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperboy Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 @Hyperboy: I hope you still get my PMs. There is a red "BLOCK" sign below your name in the PM section, whatever this means. I did not click it. I don't see that at my other PMs.Death in the family, I'll be back shortly. Sent from my finger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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