Game works for a few seconds, then shuts off...

[Centurion13]

I have Combat for my 2600, and it works fine. But neither Donkey Kong or Battlezone will stay on for more than ten seconds... then they shut off and I am left with a blue screen (I have an A/V mod). Can someone tell me what might be going on here?

 

STeve

[Thomas Jentzsch]

Maybe cleaning the cart contacts may help.

 

It also could be that DK and Battlezone need a little more power than Combat and your power adapter is dying.

[zylon]

I would suspect an IC issue, probably in the RIOT chip. Different games use different lines through it. Result is some games work like combat, starship, or bowling, but more complicated ones will not. Try some Activision titles and see. River raid or Robot Tank are good ones to try.

[Centurion13]

Well, I tried the power supply on a four-switch unit. Works fine.

 

Then I tried the six-switch unit with a swapped-out RIOT chip from another 6-switch unit. No luck.

 

I think I will just wait on the 6-switch unit... I have plenty of four switch units to work on for the time being.

 

Cent13

[Mef]

Might as well be the voltage regulator. It automatically cuts off power when it gets too hot. Games which require more juice would put it under more strain, causing faster overheating.

 

I had a very similar issue where Jungle Hunt would make one of my Jr.s die after a minute or so, while the games on different carts worked fine. Opening the unit revealed that the voltage regulator was soldered in a way that made it impossible to install the screw which normally holds it against the heat sink surface. Obviously, that made it reach critical temperature very fast.

 

I'd say have a look at yours, might be a similar situation.

Edited July 16, 2015 by Mef

[Centurion13]

I replaced the voltage regulator, along with the three electrolytic capacitors, as the first step in refurbishing the unit. I am going to pick up a new transformer, something that produced only nine volts versus the 14-15 I am getting from the original unit.

 

Cent13

[Andromeda Stardust]

I replaced the voltage regulator, along with the three electrolytic capacitors, as the first step in refurbishing the unit. I am going to pick up a new transformer, something that produced only nine volts versus the 14-15 I am getting from the original unit.

 

Cent13

Yikes! That's high. I replaced the 7805 and filter cap in my old 4-switcher, although my issue was more noise related. Cleared it right up. Could also be the video mod acting squirrely if you're getting blue screened on your TV. Do you have access to a CRT set?

[Centurion13]

Well, the 4-switch 2600 worked fine with all my carts when first tested. Then I made the A/V module, connected it and removed the resistor/transistor/RF box. Now it doesn't work at all! Checked for spattered solder bridging circuits, cold solder joints, bad regulator, components soldered only on one side of a two-sided board, broken wires, component polarity, etc. I replaced the electrolytics with new ones, same values. Going to check the module build next and the continuity of all the wires. After that, I am about out of ideas.

 

Any thoughts? Similar issues? This is getting to be quite annoying.

 

Cent13