dafivehole Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 So I completed an Atarimax 1050 Happy upgrade last week and the drive has worked great with no issues... this afternoon, I'm testing some old disks and the drive suddenly became unresponsive... the drive doesn't turn when initially turning on the drive (the red light comes on) nor does my 800XL recognize it... if I hold down Option when powering on, it goes to the self test. Any ideas as to what happened?!? I tried unplugging everything and then plugging it all back in but no change... Thank you, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Could be a bunch of things: dead volatge regulator failed IC bit rot in an EPROM The easiest thing is to have another 1050 to start swapping with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafivehole Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 (edited) I don't have another 1050 drive... if I can't fix it, it goes bye-bye. Thanks, Roger UPDATE: I just found an Indus GT, plugged it in and it works fine... so the issue is definitely with the 1050. Edited August 19, 2015 by dafivehole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I understand, but as far as I'm concerned it's very useful to have spares for old technology like this and 1050's aren't very expensive if you look around. Since the drive doesn't do the "hello world!" spin when you turn it on, we can assume it isn't running code. This means I'd start by pulling the Happy and putting the regular chips back in to isolate the problem. If it still won't run, try a CPU and RIOT swap (can be pulled from a 2600, btw) and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puppetmark Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 (edited) I have seen a lot of 1050s with power supply issues. That is the first thing I would check. You can check the regulator outputs with a multimeter if you have one and have the skill. IMHO, capacitors and the voltage regulators are aging past their expected life in a lot of Atari hardware. Edited August 19, 2015 by puppetmark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafivehole Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 If anyone wants to take this on, please let me know... I'm trying to thin out my collection and untimely repair projects don't interest me right now... sorry. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Look for leaking or swelled electrolytic capacitors, and any evidence of overheated diodes near the back of the unit, between the heat sink and the mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Look at the three main caps in the back. If they are WANG, get rid of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Look at the three main caps in the back. If they are WANG, get rid of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Westphal Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Don't get WANGED. If you see them in any Atari, circumcise them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanmercer Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Look for leaking or swelled electrolytic capacitors, and any evidence of overheated diodes near the back of the unit, between the heat sink and the mechanism. This! I have a 1050 that worked fine for a few minutes and then went all borked on me. Ejected the floppy in it at the time and ther ewere both dried flakes and whispy bits of the electrolytic compound from some blown caps. I've yet to fix it but did quickly look at it and a few caps were leaking. I'll fix it eventualy but for now I just don't have a good place to sit and solder heh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 (edited) So on the subject of 1050 diagnosis, I have a 1050 that powers on on okay but all that happens is the motor spins up and then down, over and over again. Doesn't matter if the drive latch is open or closed either, which is weird to me. I've swapped the RIOT since I have spares, but no change. Caps look fine. So do I dig up a WDC controller chip next, 6507, or EPROM? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited August 19, 2015 by DrVenkman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 So on the subject of 1050 diagnosis, I have a 1050 that powers on on okay but all that happens is the motor spins up and then down, over and over again. Doesn't matter if the drive latch is open or closed either, which is weird to me. I've swapped the RIOT since I have spares, but no change. Caps look fine. So do I dig up a WDC controller chip next, 6507, or EPROM? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk That means a self-test fail. Could be the disk controller or T0 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafivehole Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 If I have time over the next couple of evenings, I'll open it up and look for something obvious and post my findings on here... I was supremely pissed last night when it went down but a good night's rest cures a lot of ills Thanks, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafivehole Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 OK, does anything look "bad" in these pics? Thank you in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanmercer Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 The caps and resistors look fine, what's on that IDT 71024 s15v chip... looks like glue or burns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafivehole Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 I believe that's glue... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+bob1200xl Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 It's soldering flux... someone was working on the board/chip and she didn't clean it off when she was done. Doesn't look good, but it won't really hurt anything. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafivehole Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 (edited) Thanks Bob... does anyone have any suggestions on what specifically to look at/for (knowing that I don't have another 1050 to Frankenstein)? I appreciate everyone's help on this... Roger Edited August 21, 2015 by dafivehole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwc Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 You seem to have the dreaded Wang capacitors First, try the 1050 again. I have several Happy drives that occasionally do this. Usually they start working again after a quick power cycle, but sometimes I have to leave them off (sweating it out) and then turn them on after a few minutes and they have thankfully come back to life (oh the relief!). If the symptoms remain, reseat / push in the socketed chips including the Happy and reseat / push in all the connectors in the drive. If the symptoms remain, do as Bryan suggested and remove the Happy and replace the original drive chips. If the symptoms remain, check power as Puppetmark suggested. As I recall Q7 (5v regulator) should have around 12v going in and around 5v coming out and Q8 (12v regulator) which should have around 24v going in and around 12v coming out. Between Test Point (TP) 13 and ground you should get around 5v and between TP14 and ground you should get around 12v. Please keep us posted. Good luck! 1050 Service Manuals: http://www.atarimania.com/documents/atari-1050-field-service-manual.pdf http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari_1050_Disk_Drive_Sams_Computerfacts_Technical_Service.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafivehole Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 OK, so I took the Happy upgrade out and put the original chips back in and it works fine... is this just a bad Happy upgrade?!? Out of curiosity, I put the Happy board back in and it was non-responsive again... I'm guessing that I can get the board swapped from Atarimax? Thanks, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1050 Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Yes, Steve will work with you at Atarimax to get your happy working again. Just contact him and let him know you are having these troubles, what you've done so far and how it seems to be just the Happy. I'm sure he'll take it back, look it over and decide from there how best to satisfy a customer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dafivehole Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) So I got the Happy swapped and re-installed in the 1050... it now responds and spins but I'm getting a ton of boot errors... the head is clean, any other ideas?!? Thanks, Roger Edited September 7, 2015 by dafivehole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keatah Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 The socket the happy plugs into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1050 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Lots, starting with cleaning the head anyway. Use WD-40 sprayed onto a table top then use a Q-tip to sop up some of the puddle with and spend a full 2 minutes rubbing it over the top of the head since it works very slowly but very well. Wipe that off and use rubbing alcohol to clean off the traces of WD-40. Now it's clean. Double check that you do have a felt pad above the head, sometimes they get 'borrowed' and they are necessary. If it's not there you will see a hole at the end of a spring loaded arm where it goes into at. Unhappy the drive with software if you know how or put in the original system and set your RPM to 288. Adjusting screw is over by the gang of plugs for the mech. In your third photo above it's hidden by the wires, but it's a blue rectangle thing with a colored blob covering the very small adjusting screw. Snail.bas is my favorite floppy drive RPM indicator: Holmes_Disk_3\ANALOG\AN12 B.atr http://ftp.pigwa.net/stuff/collections/holmes%20cd/Holmes%203/ANALOG/AN12%20B.atr More after both those are done with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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