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Is RF shielding really necessary?


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In my experience, a 2600 4-switch without its RF shielding has a lot more RF interference in the picture than with it. I don't know about a 6-switch, but the same probably applies. In the case of a front-loader NES, I couldn't see any difference with the one I tried without its RF shielding, neither through the RF output nor through the composite output (I wouldn't expect it to affect composite anyway).

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In my experience, a 2600 4-switch without its RF shielding has a lot more RF interference in the picture than with it. I don't know about a 6-switch, but the same probably applies. In the case of a front-loader NES, I couldn't see any difference with the one I tried without its RF shielding, neither through the RF output nor through the composite output (I wouldn't expect it to affect composite anyway).

Well on my NES, the RF circuit is in a tiny box to the right. The top and bottom shielding I removed because it got in the way of all the mods I did. That tiny RF box seems like it's welded shut with all the solder. I would not attempt to open it unless I had good reason too.

 

I own a 4-switch Woody and a 7800. I did remove the metal shielding on the 7800 to tweak the color hue, but replaced it after it gave satisfactory picture. My 7800 was AV modded by Best anyhow. Composite is very sharp on it though I would have preferred AV jacks instead of a cord. Atari 4-switch is stock except for replaced RF cable with RG6 Coax.

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I tested a heavy sixer (motherboard Rev. B) last night without its RF shielding quite a few times, and I couldn't see any difference in the picture compared to usual. I was surprised, considering the 4-switch woodgrain (Rev. 12) I tested without its RF shielding had a lot more RF interference in the picture than usual.

Edited by MaximRecoil
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