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ColecoVision with HDMI MOD installed pics


juice2839

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No dog in the fight here either but if either of you two guys were to do anything, please offer DIY kits for the RGB/HDMI mods, etc..

I can't remember how many time people asked about DIY. Myself and many others are DIY kind of people so that would move a lot more units

i think 5-11 offer that kind of pcb long time ago i dont rememerber all but i really think its the same kind of rybyy mod

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And this is probably why you wouldn't offer it as a DIY kit also?

 

Actually I am about to start a few DIY kits. The first one is a pause option you can add to your CV. The kit comes with one switch and 2 wires. One wire goes to pin 24 on the z-80 (the wait pin) the other goes to ground. When you turn on the switch it causes the z-80 to halt thereby making a pause mod. I might throw an LED in the kit for a little more..

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i think 5-11 offer that kind of pcb long time ago i dont rememerber all but i really think its the same kind of rybyy mod

 

I haven't offered that in a few years, approximately.

 

To add what others have said technically, the Colecovision Video Display Processor (VDP, TMS9928A for NTSC) outputs an analog signal quite close to component/YPbPr video. Some massaging of the signals is required. For my mod, I just did scaling and addition/subtraction of the VDP signals to obtain component/YPbPr. Unfortunately, the "black" level was off a bit. I haven't completely solved that issue in a way that is simple and cheap (but it worked fine in many TVs). Converting the component/YPbPr to RGB in the analog realm is a simple translation that can be done with a single chip or a few suitable op-amps. I have not tried this with the ColecoVision, so I'm not sure if the conversion is really routine in this case. Old hardware doesn't always behave the way you expect it to or the way you want it to.

 

Regarding Juice's HDMI versus Yurkie's RGB mod (bought from Juice), it's impossible to make a call without knowing key details of both mods and of the contract. Unfortunately, I'm guessing the contract isn't iron-clad legally, and could be considered more like a gentleman's contract (and therefore depending on opinion, the two mods could be considered very different or very similar).

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Don't forget the sound portion of the pause mod.. the sound will stay on continuously if not. ;)

 

LOL that's extra... ;) .... For a bit more you get a double pole single throw switch. The other pole of the switch goes between pin 7 of the SN76589AN and switches it's output on or off..

Edited by juice2839
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Correct. Im good on the kit but maybe other people are interested. :)

 

I've already done the pause mod to one of my CVs in the past, although I approached it slightly different as far as the sound, I tapped onto the cap at C88 instead of the SN76589AN. I don't really use pause mod anymore but it was fun tinkering with it at the time.

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Correct. Im good on the kit but maybe other people are interested. :)

 

I've already done the pause mod to one of my CVs in the past, although I approached it slightly different as far as the sound, I tapped onto the cap at C88 instead of the SN76589AN. I don't really use pause mod anymore but it was fun tinkering with it at the time.

 

I was poking fun about making this a kit, but I think I will make a tutorial for everyone that is interested in doing this very easy mod. Post up some pictures and stuff if people are interested. There are a few different ways to stop the sound. I just glanced at the schematic and thought of the first way that popped into my head. I like the capacitor you ,mentioned better now that you thought of it.

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Nice.. You know you could actually do some interesting things with this. You could use something like a 555 timer and make a slow motion mod HAHA.... Only triggering the sound when the wait line is high would add to the excitement of this slow motion mod. :LMAO

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I'm still confused ... So what's the best mod to get for the Colecovision that eliminates flicker and produces the best picture quality and who is the right person to pay in these forums to get the Mod professionally done?

 

If you want VGA output then the F18A is great.

If you want RGB ouput then Yurkie does a fine job installing my design.

If you want HDMI output I'd be happy to help.

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I'm still confused ... So what's the best mod to get for the Colecovision that eliminates flicker and produces the best picture quality and who is the right person to pay in these forums to get the Mod professionally done?

 

The F18A is the only one that actually totally eliminates sprite flicker. The other mods are great and the flicker looks *better* due to the refresh rate, but unless you totally swap out the VDP in the ColecoVision with the F18A, you cannot eliminate the sprite flicker.

 

And remember, the F18A output can easily be converted to HDMI if you wanted to go that route, too.

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Awesomeness... Who does the F18A mod with HDMI?

 

The F18A is the only one that actually totally eliminates sprite flicker. The other mods are great and the flicker looks *better* due to the refresh rate, but unless you totally swap out the VDP in the ColecoVision with the F18A, you cannot eliminate the sprite flicker.

 

And remember, the F18A output can easily be converted to HDMI if you wanted to go that route, too.

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You'd probably have to do it yourself.. or find a hired gun here who would do the job for you.

I'm sure someone could do the socketed F18a for you at least and maybe throw an HDMI converter in the case yourself.. if you feel comfortable doing it. The hardest part of that would be trimming out plastic for the new HDMI port and keeping it clean looking. I haven't done it yet so until I do it to one of my CVs, I wouldn't feel comfortable modding someone else's until then. I'm sure one of the modders here can help you out, yurkie installs sockets.. not sure if he does the rest but it wouldn't hurt to ask.

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You'd probably have to do it yourself.. or find a hired gun here who would do the job for you.

I'm sure someone could do the socketed F18a for you at least and maybe throw an HDMI converter in the case yourself.. if you feel comfortable doing it. The hardest part of that would be trimming out plastic for the new HDMI port and keeping it clean looking. I haven't done it yet so until I do it to one of my CVs, I wouldn't feel comfortable modding someone else's until then. I'm sure one of the modders here can help you out, yurkie installs sockets.. not sure if he does the rest but it wouldn't hurt to ask.

 

I have a CNC machines. If someone comes up with a good setup for using the F18A (or Yurkies RGB) and a commercial scaler, draws up a nice layout and such I could professionally cut out some cases for people.

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Converting the component/YPbPr to RGB in the analog realm is a simple translation that can be done with a single chip or a few suitable op-amps. I have not tried this with the ColecoVision, so I'm not sure if the conversion is really routine in this case. Old hardware doesn't always behave the way you expect it to or the way you want it to.

 

 

 

 

You could actually convert it in the digital realm too if you wanted to. The TMS only outputs 16 colors (well 15 and transparent) If you wanted to condition the PbPr signals into something that resembles a TTL level you could theoretically look at those signals with some programmable logic and then output a corresponding RGB signal through a simple resistor ladder for each color. I suspect this is similair to how the output of the F18A works although he probably uses a digital to analog converter instead of a resistor ladder. I am actually surprised he has not had more purist calling him out on how he derives his colors to tell you the truth.

Edited by juice2839
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Wait, so 'this is what I should buy' to get the f18a as it includes the vga to hdmi converter (when it comes back in stock)?

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/193925-matthew180s-f18a-is-available-for-pre-order/?p=3188712

 

HDMI, 5 volt only mod, and runs without RAM chips, all for under $100US. NO FLICKER. And Matt recently added a scan-line emulator to the firmware.

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You would have to get someone to do the F18A mod once Matthew gets more in stock, and then just buy an HDMI converter, which is what I have, and it works just fine.

While HDMI is nice, I think I would stick with the standard output of the F18A via the VGA connection as it maintains the 4:3 aspect ratio compared to the stretched look you get via an HDMI converter.
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Wait, so 'this is what I should buy' to get the f18a as it includes the vga to hdmi converter (when it comes back in stock)?

I paid $80 for the F18a and $20 for the vga-hdmi board at Fry's.

 

This also saves you from needing to buy a console5 ram set if you come across a swap-meet CV without power supply, (as was in my case) you can just use a 5V wall wart instead.

 

Matt confirms that he's manufacturing more as we speak.

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