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Tips for someone considering collecting for the Atari 2600?


hiitsbrian

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Get an Atari that has all the hook-ups for the benefit of having them and so that you know the seller has all they need to test it.

 

In my opinion, the Suncom controllers(TAC-2, Slik Stik, and StarFighter) are the best controllers and this video shows internally why that is:

 

 

Hmm, I was going to get Best Electronics's CX40s upgraded with their lifetime gold PCB boards, but now I'm not sure whether I should go with these Tac-2 controllers instead for roughly the same price...

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Hmm, I was going to get Best Electronics's CX40s upgraded with their lifetime gold PCB boards, but now I'm not sure whether I should go with these Tac-2 controllers instead for roughly the same price...

 

It is different for everyone but my personal favorite out of the three I listed is this one even though they all are good:

 

 

I just showed the TAC-2 video because they all three have the same basic internal design and that video shows the design. The TAC-2 controller feels like I can only hold it from the top but I hold joysticks the same way as if I was holding a pen and control what is on screen as if I'm drawing the object around it. So, I disagree with the review above that there is no reason to own a StarFighter over a CX-40 because, even though it has a smaller but same external design, internally it has a better design. Instead of having the dome buttons inside it has all metal which if cleaned and functioning properly gives more feedback that you did a full press because you can feel it tap the metal when it does and when it does tap the metal you know it will register as a press unlike a dome button. It registers so well that if you needed to just tap and move one spot on the screen it does it the same as one press on a D-pad would and if you held it in one direction then it stops as soon as you feel it off the metal. That mixed with the very short throw makes very quick and accurate movements than I could make on his preferred Genesis controller because within the time I could move from lets say left to right on a D-pad I could move left, right, and left again. It feels like I can move where I want, exactly where I want it, and as quickly as I think it. I also disagree with how he showed that you could either fully grip it if you had small hands or put your thumb on top because I grip it from the bottom with my thumb and two fingers just like a pen and the stick is long enough that the top firmly presses against the part of my hand between my thumb and finger. And refurbishing it doesn't even require lifetime gold PCB boards as replacements. You just open it up, clean all the metal with rubbing alcohol with maybe the kind of cleaner you would use to polish brace or copper for the button, and then it is like new again. In other words, as long as you are not abusing it some how like maybe throwing it or doing something to break the internal ball off the stick then it is already lifetime. You could probably even find a spot in there to glue in a silicone gel pack to keep out moister after cleaning it to prevent future corrosion of the fire button.

 

In my opinion, "The ultimate joystick" written on it is an accurate description and this controller all by itself could put an end to D-pad vs. joystick debates. For an example, if there was some kind of test where all they did was go in circles with a D-pad and the StarFighter for like an hour with a program to show how many times they went around and how accurate they did then by the time the hour is over the StarFighter would have lapped it many of times regardless of the D-pad chosen.

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In my opinion, "The ultimate joystick" written on it is an accurate description and this controller all by itself could put an end to D-pad vs. joystick debates. For an example, if there was some kind of test where all they did was go in circles with a D-pad and the StarFighter for like an hour with a program to show how many times they went around and how accurate they did then by the time the hour is over the StarFighter would have lapped it many of times regardless of the D-pad chosen.

 

Hmmm. I think I'll start poking around the Marketplace forum in the near future and try to get my hands on a couple of these instead of the CX40s from Best. No harm in trying them at the very least! I checked out the Tac-2s on eBay but they're going for $35 a pop; a little too rich for my blood.

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Picked up my first 2600 console ever today at the flea market. Bought it from a guy I've been buying games from since moving here. No power cable at the moment, but he has vouched for it saying it works and will let me return it if it doesn't. As you can see I got the 4 switch woody. Wanted a system with the classic look to it, so I decided against the Jr. He also had a Vader, but it was pretty dirty and I wasn't sure how well it'd clean up. Might pick it up if it's still there next weekend.

YiuxJ3.jpg

Anyway, so all I need now is a power adapter. I believe he said it needs to be 120 volt or else it could fry the system. Anyone browsing this thread have a spare 2600 power adapter they could sell me? And perhaps an RCA to co ax adapter?

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Picked up my first 2600 console ever today at the flea market. Bought it from a guy I've been buying games from since moving here. No power cable at the moment, but he has vouched for it saying it works and will let me return it if it doesn't. As you can see I got the 4 switch woody. Wanted a system with the classic look to it, so I decided against the Jr. He also had a Vader, but it was pretty dirty and I wasn't sure how well it'd clean up. Might pick it up if it's still there next weekend.

 

 

 

Anyway, so all I need now is a power adapter. I believe he said it needs to be 120 volt or else it could fry the system. Anyone browsing this thread have a spare 2600 power adapter they could sell me? And perhaps an RCA to co ax adapter?

 

 

Nice pick!

 

I got a retrobit adapter and RFtoCoax if you still need them.

The retrobit is the best aftermarket that i've found - little to no RF interference.

Don't get the crappy low-end ones - they will cause interference and static.

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Picked up my first 2600 console ever today at the flea market. Bought it from a guy I've been buying games from since moving here. No power cable at the moment, but he has vouched for it saying it works and will let me return it if it doesn't. As you can see I got the 4 switch woody. Wanted a system with the classic look to it, so I decided against the Jr. He also had a Vader, but it was pretty dirty and I wasn't sure how well it'd clean up. Might pick it up if it's still there next weekend.YiuxJ3.jpg

Anyway, so all I need now is a power adapter. I believe he said it needs to be 120 volt or else it could fry the system. Anyone browsing this thread have a spare 2600 power adapter they could sell me? And perhaps an RCA to co ax adapter?

Congrats on picking up your 2600!! It's a nice looking 4 switch woody. That is what I use for my primary 2600 gaming. And they are great units. I have a ton of RCA female to male end coaxial adapters if you need one (free of charge).

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Hmmm. I think I'll start poking around the Marketplace forum in the near future and try to get my hands on a couple of these instead of the CX40s from Best. No harm in trying them at the very least! I checked out the Tac-2s on eBay but they're going for $35 a pop; a little too rich for my blood.

The trick to things like that is to find what you are looking for not by just typing it in the search to get results from sellers who know what they have but find what you are looking for bundled in a cheap auction from sellers that don't know what they have. For an example, I would disagree with how much many may value a Heavy Sixer at because I own a few that I got from sellers that can't tell the difference. There are sellers that sell TAC-2's and then there are sellers that just sale Atari joysticks within bundles starting at $.99.

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