Flying Blind... Please HELP...

[dbpbandit]

HELP! I have no video on my TEMPEST game. I turned it on the other day, but no video. Game sounds/play work, as far as I can tell, just no video. Looking into it I found both of the 250V fusses were blown along with 2 of the resistors. I replaced them and also a resistor in the HV cage that looked cooked but still no video. I have checked for bad solder joints and also checked to see if the monitor is charging but I don’t think it is. When I turn the unit off and do a discharge on the monitor, nothing happens, no pop, not even a click. Also, the “Spot Killer” LED is not on. I am going to try and locate a replacement transformer for the HV cage but I’m wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks in advance for the help…

 

Dave…

[Cassidy Nolen]

Just order the Bob Roberts rebuild kit for it. Takes about an hour to change out everything, and that should set you straight. Which monitor do you have? You'll need to know when you order it.

 

www.therealbobroberts.com

 

 

I have only had a few that did not fix....

HTH,

 

Cassidy

 

BTW, you may want to be sure that you have voltage going to the monitor as well. Check the fuses on the iso block in the bottom.

[dbpbandit]

Thanks for the suggestions; I have already looked into ordering the Cap Kit and also a LV2000. The only problem I have is that I wouldn’t think a Cap would keep the monitor from working, just looking right. I don't want to make more work by mucking up the works, so to speak... I would also like to figure out this problem before replacing the LV area, a working monitor would be an ideal place to start. You did mention something about checking the voltage to the monitor, would I check this from the red and black leads coming from the HV cage and going to the monitor neck? If so, what should the voltage be? AC or DC? 150V or 12V? I did check my block fusses in the bottom, they all checked out OK. Since I had posted this, my research is leading me more and more to the transformer in the HV cage. I think it's called the "flyback" but I'm not sure and Bob Roberts doesn’t seem to have one listed for the WG K6100 monitor. Do you know of a way to test these?

Thanks

Dave…

[Cassidy Nolen]

The rebuild kit is also the diodes and resistors that commonly go bad. Caps, transistors, etc get changed, and some of those would keep the spot killer from coming up too if bad.

 

I have not ever heard of a 6100 flyback going bad. Seriously, the rebuild kit (do install every piece) should get you going again. If not, I'll ask around and see if I can find you some chassis/cage parts used.

 

Cassidy

[Arcadenut]

Thanks for the suggestions; I have already looked into ordering the Cap Kit and also a LV2000. The only problem I have is that I wouldn’t think a Cap would keep the monitor from working, just looking right. I don't want to make more work by mucking up the works, so to speak... I would also like to figure out this problem before replacing the LV area, a working monitor would be an ideal place to start. You did mention something about checking the voltage to the monitor, would I check this from the red and black leads coming from the HV cage and going to the monitor neck? If so, what should the voltage be? AC or DC? 150V or 12V? I did check my block fusses in the bottom, they all checked out OK. Since I had posted this, my research is leading me more and more to the transformer in the HV cage. I think it's called the "flyback" but I'm not sure and Bob Roberts doesn’t seem to have one listed for the WG K6100 monitor. Do you know of a way to test these?

Thanks  

Dave…

 

The full rebuild kit is 30 parts. One bad cap could certainly keep a monitor from working depending on what the cap was used for.