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BitWriter Replica 1050 - Order phase has started


tf_hh

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  • 1 year later...

I just installed the bitwriter replica in my 1050 and it's not working. Here's what I know

 

- I tested the drive before install and all worked well. Format, write and read all worked. Tested 90K and 180K (had a US doubler)

- when removing the US doubler, I put original RAM chip back in. left eprom slot empty.

- It spins up and head moves at power up. Seems normal.

- I rechecked all wires against the install instructions and can't find any errors. Solder joints are clean. No bridges. I triple checked IC pin numbers. This is the A version. It's plugged into the factory CPU socket.

- I photographed all connections from the drive mech before disassembly and know they are all installed correctly.

- When I attempt to boot a disk, I get a single beep while it reads track 0, it moves the head back and forth and tries a second time, then it boots SDX from the U1MB installed in my 800XL

- When I try a directory, it spins and attemps to read track 0, makes a splat noise and gives me error 139 NAK .

 

Any suggestions? Are there any self tests I can use to check basic functionality?

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I found the Super Archiver Diagnostic disk.

archiver memory - PASS

6532 & 6810 RAM - PASS

ROM: ver 1.6 - PASS

 

When I try the speed test it tells me the disk isn't formatted. I know it is, so there must be an issue reading that I'll need to track down.

 

Checked power supply and get 12.2V and 5.0V.

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I just installed the bitwriter replica in my 1050 and it's not working. Here's what I know

Any suggestions? Are there any self tests I can use to check basic functionality?

 

First: Sorry to read that. Although I test every device carefully, not all faults can be excluded. Could you sent me a picture from the installed version, specially the ribbon cable? When I shipping out the first big batch in 2016, two user sent me similar reports - in both cases the ribbon cable was the source of trouble.

 

One wasn´t correct crimped, the other one... was crimped the wrong way (180 degrees turned). This won´t damage anything, but the read and write signals are routed over the ribbon cable, so the basic functions - read and write data - won´t be successful.

 

Jurgen

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First: Sorry to read that. Although I test every device carefully, not all faults can be excluded. Could you sent me a picture from the installed version, specially the ribbon cable? When I shipping out the first big batch in 2016, two user sent me similar reports - in both cases the ribbon cable was the source of trouble.

 

One wasn´t correct crimped, the other one... was crimped the wrong way (180 degrees turned). This won´t damage anything, but the read and write signals are routed over the ribbon cable, so the basic functions - read and write data - won´t be successful.

 

Jurgen

Thanks for the suggestions. I just got it working. :) I decided to re-seat the RIOT and FDC to wipe off any corrosion and that seemed to do the trick. All the speeds are about 5 rpm too high so I need to do some adjusting. I'm guessing that bringing the main rpm down will bring the others down with it, right? I also noticed when I took a closer look at the main board that L6 is burned and the case is cracked. It must not be open circuit, since the motor still turns, but I should probably replace it to be safe. Maybe that's why the speed is off?

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All the speeds are about 5 rpm too high so I need to do some adjusting. I'm guessing that bringing the main rpm down will bring the others down with it, right? I also noticed when I took a closer look at the main board that L6 is burned and the case is cracked. It must not be open circuit, since the motor still turns, but I should probably replace it to be safe. Maybe that's why the speed is off?

 

This inductor is in the path for drive motor power and burns sometimes over the years, have seen this a several times. Mostly heavy used drives, so I strongly suggest to change all electrolytic capacitors left of L6 also (the four on the left, they´re also in the 12v motor circuit). When such a fresh-up is done, change also the three big caps - 4700 uF is enough each, sometimes Atari uses 6800 uF, but that´s not mandatory.

 

Look at the picture, I mark all caps which I would replace to make the drive fit for the next 20 years :)

 

post-15670-0-94209400-1523103139_thumb.jpg

I´m not sure that repairing these parts will change the drive RPM, but use the speed pot for adjusting the standard speed of 288 RPM, then the other three should fit, also. Most users report to me "works fine", but a few need adjustment anyway.

 

Jurgen

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  • 4 months later...

I just thought I would mention in this thread that I was able to copy my 1985 SynCalc disk using the Bitwriter Replica. It took some time to figure out the process, but it was fun.

Hi tep392,

 

Just installed the Bitwriter today, and this thing is pretty bad-assed. I've been able to copy One-On-One, but not Syncalc so far. Boy, you're right. It is pretty fun, and harkens back to the days of yesteryear. It's like living an episode of The Goldbergs. I've tried a few different disks and have copied the disk using skew alignment, and then copying the large tracks with the Bitwriter. No luck so far. Any chance you can post how you copied it? Thanks!

 

Rick

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Sunofabitch! Copying the original disk with the SuperArchiver set to skew and then copying the large tracks with the Bitwriter did the trick. Whatta ya know!

Glad you figured it out. Here's a post describing how I did it.

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/229840-atari-400800-the-chip-disk-backupdevelopmet-system-by-spartan/?p=4004458

 

It was a fun project.

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  • 2 months later...

never cheap out on caps... never cheap out on caps... never....

I've also found that the mantra should ne "never replace caps, never replace caps" just because it's the vogue thing to do. If there is a problem, then replace them.

 

I have never in my life, had to replace a cap in any Atari computer, peripheral, etc. since I have been using them. From 1982 to 2018. Also, I have lots of high power, high dollar vintage audio gear. Some going back to my birth year of 1975. Again, never an issue.

 

I'd really love to know the origin of this mythical need for "re-capping" devices.

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Hello guys

 

The iMac G5 had problems due to caps going bad and the instrument cluster of the car model I drive is suffering from bad caps too. Re-capping might not always be necessary, but there was a time when some company/companies made low quality caps.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

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there was an issue where a formula was stolen and mass produced that had a high failure rate... 1999-2002,2005

 

most caps are only expected to live 11 years these days, water based caps die due to acidic tendencies and temperature (freeze or heat)

 

caps can go 'bad' do to non use, but can be taken out and re formed...

 

so long as you keep using them periodically they last a mighty long life.

 

look up china steals formula and produces Taiwanese caps that fail, then read about capacitor dump to china that continued using them in everything for years after it was discovered. more low quality products from ip theft that got bodged... just add water... there's enough soup for everyone.

Edited by _The Doctor__
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Yes, like Doc said there was capacitor espionage and they screwed up the recipe. This article explains it well.

https://amp.theguardian.com/technology/blog/2010/jun/29/dell-problems-capacitors

 

I worked for a large corporation back then and in our office location alone we had to replace at least 1000 Dell motherboards due to leaking and buldging caps. Since 1983, I have only had one bad capacitor in an Atari product (a 1050) and zero in my A8 computers. I'm also of the mindset that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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Hi,

 

There's a list of capacitors at https://console5.com/wiki/Atari_1050 - but it also includes C21 and C44 - should these be replaced too for a "clean sweep"?

 

Also, are capacitors a commodity type component that it's OK to get from China, quality wise?

 

 

Just FYI I have ordered caps from console5 and they were high quality (nichicons, etc) as far as I can tell. Don't install low quality caps on valuable and irreplaceable vintage equipment.

Edited by Sugarland
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I've also found that the mantra should ne "never replace caps, never replace caps" just because it's the vogue thing to do. If there is a problem, then replace them.

 

I have never in my life, had to replace a cap in any Atari computer, peripheral, etc. since I have been using them. From 1982 to 2018. Also, I have lots of high power, high dollar vintage audio gear. Some going back to my birth year of 1975. Again, never an issue.

 

I'd really love to know the origin of this mythical need for "re-capping" devices.

Likely has something to do with the following, even though the Atari computers were manufactured before it happened.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

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I'm guessing that it's this bit:

 

"electrolytes based on ethylene glycol and boric acid. In these so-called glycol or borax electrolytes, an unwanted chemical crystal water reaction occurs: "acid + alcohol gives ester + water". These borax electrolytes have been standard in electrolytic capacitors for a long time, and have a water content between 5 and 20%. They work up to a maximum temperature of 85 °C or 105 °C in the voltage range up to 600 V."

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I've also found that the mantra should ne "never replace caps, never replace caps" just because it's the vogue thing to do. If there is a problem, then replace them.

 

I have never in my life, had to replace a cap in any Atari computer, peripheral, etc. since I have been using them. From 1982 to 2018. Also, I have lots of high power, high dollar vintage audio gear. Some going back to my birth year of 1975. Again, never an issue.

 

I'd really love to know the origin of this mythical need for "re-capping" devices.

 

Tantalums blow is a very nasty way. If you have them in any of your devices, replace them. If you wait until they go you're replacing more than the cap.

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I've also found that the mantra should ne "never replace caps, never replace caps" just because it's the vogue thing to do. If there is a problem, then replace them.

 

I have never in my life, had to replace a cap in any Atari computer, peripheral, etc. since I have been using them. From 1982 to 2018. Also, I have lots of high power, high dollar vintage audio gear. Some going back to my birth year of 1975. Again, never an issue.

 

I'd really love to know the origin of this mythical need for "re-capping" devices.

 

There are HUGE differences in quality and parts used by the manufacturer. I wouldn´t say "replacing caps" is something like a mantra or nonsense, it depends on the personal experiences some hardware guys made.

 

When we´re talking about the first production waves of the Atari XL series for example, I´m in. Never need to replace a cap on an rev. A or B type Atari 600 XL, 800 XL or 1200 XL. But the newer, mostly in Europe offered versions with Freddie-IC and all XE series have definitely lower quality caps. I have had to repair a lot of systems, where the major caps (470 uF, located beside the power switch and the O.S. ROM ("800XLF")) looks good, but weren´t. Systems are instable, sometimes they hang etc. - after changing this caps all were fine. Several times the caps are beginning to "take their hat off" (visible deformation at the upper part, cap will blow out).

 

But also some 400/800 systems are affected. If you have an Atari 400 or Atari 800 with long usage time, sometimes the big 4700 or 6800 uF electrolytic cap at the power PCB is bad. Also instable system, and voltages with a lot of ripple. This also for 1050 disk drives. Heavy used drives have defect or near-by-defect caps, and if you don´t exchange them, you might cause other defects in case of overvoltages. Most times the 78xx linear VRM burns and the rest is safe, but not always. I´ve done repairs at over hundreds of systems and disk drives, and my opinion is easy: Better change the most important caps for a few bucks - we´re talking about +30 years old components...!

 

Also regarding high-end HiFi components... it depends massively on the manufacturer and used parts - and, not to forget, on the time the device wasn´t powered on! Some years ago I got a Bang & Olufson amplifier as a gift, build in the early 80s. I was curious - and quite silly - and power on the amplifier... after a few seconds both big caps of the output stage blast away. The amplifier was not used for over 20 years...

 

Last word: Ask any Amiga 600 or 1200 owner regarding "caps"... :grin:

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