Guest LiqMat Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) I have two caps that have decided to leak a bit. The C39 35v 100uF & C41 10v 470uF blue caps. The other component is an oddball one I need help IDing. It is blue with the markings 680 IK TDK TWN and below that it has 680 K. Anyone know what this might be and what replacement part I might need for that? The photo does not really show it well, but the top of this is looking a bit off. My symptoms are as soon as the batteries are put in the unit immediately powers on and the on/off does not function. The screen is lit but blank and at full brightness. Cart inserted does nothing. Digikey, where I buy my components, thinks it might be a 68uH inductor. Can anyone verify this for me? Thanks. Edited April 13, 2016 by LiqMat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Schematic says it is 68uH inductor. Generally they don't need to be replaced as it's just coil of wires designed to block AC signal such as the AC that drives the CCFL transformer from leaking onto 5v rail. If the Lynx worked fine on AC power and not DC power, then this inductor is not the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LiqMat Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Schematic says it is 68uH inductor. Generally they don't need to be replaced as it's just coil of wires designed to block AC signal such as the AC that drives the CCFL transformer from leaking onto 5v rail. If the Lynx worked fine on AC power and not DC power, then this inductor is not the issue. Got it. Thanks. This is my first Lynx II repair so knocking around a bit. Always like a new challenge, but not holding out a lot of hope for this guy. Picked this up at a thrift store and the unit looks almost mint physically, but what lies beneath its skin tells a darker tale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 I'd be checking to see what the voltages are coming out of the original power supply circuitry. Have you also tried an AC adapter? The common faults for these guys would be that Q11/Q12 power MOSFET, the D13 zener diode, and those two power supply caps you mentioned. Although if D13 has popped and you have 9V flowing through the power supply, then you may not have too much luck as some of the other chips could be shot. Console5.com is a great place to order a Lynx recap kit and new power mosfet.. cheaper than going Digikey unless you're going to buy enough caps for like 10+ sets of Lynxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LiqMat Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Thanks for the console5 link. That makes it much easier instead of hunting down every part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Thanks for the console5 link. That makes it much easier instead of hunting down every part. I can also give you a digikey cart that I have that has all those parts. I do buy my caps at digikey sometimes when I have other things to order just to save a few $$. but in general it is hard to beat the console5 price, and they are good quality japanese Nichicon caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LiqMat Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 I can also give you a digikey cart that I have that has all those parts. I do buy my caps at digikey sometimes when I have other things to order just to save a few $$. but in general it is hard to beat the console5 price, and they are good quality japanese Nichicon caps. Actually that would be great if you don't mind. I do buy quite a bit over at Digikey for my other projects. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Sure thing, it is here, with all the quantities and cap numbers labelled, and also the Q12 mosfet. http://www.digikey.com/short/3j781d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LiqMat Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Sure thing, it is here, with all the quantities and cap numbers labelled, and also the Q12 mosfet. http://www.digikey.com/short/3j781d Outstanding. Thanks for your help! You have saved me a great deal of time. Now lets just hope I can breath new life into this little guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Hopefully so! You can also consider buying a RECOM 5V DC-DC converter and doing the 5V mod. But once you get it working, then you'll have to do the McWill LCD mod... it is amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LiqMat Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) Hopefully so! You can also consider buying a RECOM 5V DC-DC converter and doing the 5V mod. But once you get it working, then you'll have to do the McWill LCD mod... it is amazing. Just getting it working will be good for now. I have two Atari 800XLs that I am merging into one nice machine. That is my main project right now. I have a perfect working 800XL mobo in a nasty looking case and a new old stock case that is mint factory new, but with almost 100% bad memory mobo. One of those newer all soldered IC boards. It should be a gem when I am done. Edited April 13, 2016 by LiqMat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Hold off on the 5v mod until you are sure Lynx is 100% working. Replace those caps, check for damaged trace around those caps, check if the 5v is getting through. If it is 9v, then zener diode or the transistor may have failed. If there's 5v and it still won't turn on, mosfet may have failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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