ScottyDont00 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Running out of patience with my NES. I've cleaned all the connectors including the connectors on the board. I've replaced the pin connector with an original refurbished one. Every time I get one game to play fine the next time I take that game out and put another one in it goes to the solid blank grey screen... going to break it in half soon.... any suggestions welcome.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skippy B. Coyote Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) If you haven't yet, try playing the games with the cartridge tray in the up position rather than locked down. A lot of times the 72-pin connectors don't like being locked down and won't play games reliably unless they're in the up position. Edited April 30, 2016 by Jin 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatPix Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) If you have cleaned the 72 pins connector a bit "energetically" then you probably have bent the pins lower. Grab a plastic ruler and gently push the pins upward. Do multiple testings with your console opened (it won't explode, and the shielding is useless as well) until your console works reliably even after multiple insertions. Oh, and of course, clean your games as well. A clean connector won't do any good on dirty games. Edited April 30, 2016 by CatPix 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbd30 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) If you have cleaned the 72 pins connector a bit "energetically" then you probably have bent the pins lower. Grab a plastic ruler and gently push the pins upward. Do multiple testings with your console opened (it won't explode, and the shielding is useless as well) until your console works reliably even after multiple insertions. Oh, and of course, clean your games as well. A clean connector won't do any good on dirty games. This. Your NES might be fine, but your games might be too dirty. Even with my top loader, I sometimes have to scrub a new acquisition several times or more with the 1UP card and rubbing alcohol before it will play. Whatever you do, don't blow into your games. That only makes it worse. Edited April 30, 2016 by mbd30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGQuarterly Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Can you describe *how* you cleaned the games and the console? Just because you did it doesn't mean you did it effectively. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Using a game genie always works for me. Or its expensive but get a top loader and no more blinking light. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottyDont00 Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 Can you describe *how* you cleaned the games and the console? Just because you did it doesn't mean you did it effectively. I scrubbed the board connectors with 91% rubbing alcohol and tested it with a q-tip until I stopped getting dirt on the q-tip. I the pin connector I boiled in water and used a spare super mario/duck hunt cart to help remove any junk that might have been in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGQuarterly Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Alcohol is definitely not always enough. In fact, I would say that it is usually not enough. I wrote this article before I knew about De-Oxit, which I now use as the last step after the eraser, but this is still a very effective method: http://www.cgquarterly.com/2010/03/06/how-to-clean-your-games/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariLeaf Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Using a game genie always works for me. Or its expensive but get a top loader and no more blinking light. I've heard this. I just acquired a game genie in a, strangely enough, Atari 800XL lot. How does using the genie as a go-between help prevent the blinking light issue exactly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSchoolRetroGamer Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Disable the 10neschip often helps overall. I have not had the time myself but I plan to do it with 2 nes I have that are giving me the blinking light issues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLMCj2VosLc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) Game genie stretches out the pins so it no longer makes contact with the pins and games refuse to work. Game genie pcb is thicker. So it stretches the 72 pin connector. So sometimes adding a game genie is the only way to get a game to load. My replacement 72 pin from ebay only loads with game genie now and does not otherwise. Just blinks. Edited May 1, 2016 by 0078265317 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariLeaf Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Anyone try the "Blinking Light Win"? I've heard good things about it and other than it being a very tight fit, it seems to be a good solution. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatPix Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 I've heard this. I just acquired a game genie in a, strangely enough, Atari 800XL lot. How does using the genie as a go-between help prevent the blinking light issue exactly? The Game Genie PCB is located lower than a normal NES game; it's because you can't press the Game Genie down, so they have to find a way to make a contact with the connector. It's also why you can't use the Game Genie in a top loader NES, since the toploader use a standard connector that won't fit the GG (unless you cut the shell of the GG). This is only a temporary solution, as every time you use a GG, it presses the connector pins on a upper point that a regular NEs game, so it bend them down further, which make the things worse for further use. As for the 10Nes chip, the blinking is caused by poor contacts. If a game blinks, or all your games blinks it's because the games or the connector is dirty or bent. Disabling the 10NES chip only mean that you'll know much later that you have a poor connection issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 I will do a writeup later but there is a work around. Movie starting now so bye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Or you can get a pal nes and horelec gamekey. Just always always leave the game key inside. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Horelec-Gamekey-Adaptor-Nintendo-NES-/291609222035?hash=item43e5439b93:g:AJ4AAOSwT5tWO1Fs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 OK, I am uploading a video right now and it should be ready in 1 hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Here you go, enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 LOL dude come on. Lmao I'm dying here. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Ok I have fixed many many nes systems and this is my personal preference on repairing them. Take system apart. Remove pin connector and boil/bake it. Take Brasso and use it on the board pins "only"- many people will disagree with this as it removes the gold plating which I understand but the results are soooo much better. You must use deoxit gold which will act the same as the gold plating. As long as you re-coat the pins you will be fine. Remove lock-out. Reassemble. There is a major difference between using brasso on the board and not using brasso. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatPix Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 just a tip : says "metal polish. Brasso isn't sold in all the world and/or might not be available at hand for everyone. Why buying a bottle of produc if your family has some non brasso branded metal polish that you can borrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Usotsuki Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 It's something like Barkeep's Friend, then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 It's something like Barkeep's Friend, then? It may work, I would shoot for a liquid version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldschool80skid Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 I have used the BKF powder version and it works great. It has resurrected many carts that would not work after cleaning the contacts with isopropyl alcohol or a dry eraser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatPix Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 My personnal preference is just to get a bottle of crystal vinegar. Pour the 72 pins connector in, let it sat in there for several minutes, then use a piece of cloth to rub and dry it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 I have used the BKF powder version and it works great. It has resurrected many carts that would not work after cleaning the contacts with isopropyl alcohol or a dry eraser. I personally wouldn't use a metal polish on cart pins. I give tolerance to board pins as they can be coated w/deoxit gold and they will not have constant scraping along the pins. However removing the gold plating for carts that constantly get scraped in and out of a pin-connector I would not do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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