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Need help with NES-001


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Running out of patience with my NES. I've cleaned all the connectors including the connectors on the board. I've replaced the pin connector with an original refurbished one. Every time I get one game to play fine the next time I take that game out and put another one in it goes to the solid blank grey screen... going to break it in half soon.... any suggestions welcome..

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If you have cleaned the 72 pins connector a bit "energetically" then you probably have bent the pins lower. Grab a plastic ruler and gently push the pins upward.

Do multiple testings with your console opened (it won't explode, and the shielding is useless as well) until your console works reliably even after multiple insertions.

Oh, and of course, clean your games as well. A clean connector won't do any good on dirty games.

Edited by CatPix
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If you have cleaned the 72 pins connector a bit "energetically" then you probably have bent the pins lower. Grab a plastic ruler and gently push the pins upward.

Do multiple testings with your console opened (it won't explode, and the shielding is useless as well) until your console works reliably even after multiple insertions.

Oh, and of course, clean your games as well. A clean connector won't do any good on dirty games.

 

This. Your NES might be fine, but your games might be too dirty. Even with my top loader, I sometimes have to scrub a new acquisition several times or more with the 1UP card and rubbing alcohol before it will play. Whatever you do, don't blow into your games. That only makes it worse.

Edited by mbd30
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Can you describe *how* you cleaned the games and the console? Just because you did it doesn't mean you did it effectively.

I scrubbed the board connectors with 91% rubbing alcohol and tested it with a q-tip until I stopped getting dirt on the q-tip. I the pin connector I boiled in water and used a spare super mario/duck hunt cart to help remove any junk that might have been in there.

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Alcohol is definitely not always enough. In fact, I would say that it is usually not enough. I wrote this article before I knew about De-Oxit, which I now use as the last step after the eraser, but this is still a very effective method:

 

http://www.cgquarterly.com/2010/03/06/how-to-clean-your-games/

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Using a game genie always works for me. Or its expensive but get a top loader and no more blinking light.

 

I've heard this. I just acquired a game genie in a, strangely enough, Atari 800XL lot. How does using the genie as a go-between help prevent the blinking light issue exactly?

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Game genie stretches out the pins so it no longer makes contact with the pins and games refuse to work. Game genie pcb is thicker. So it stretches the 72 pin connector. So sometimes adding a game genie is the only way to get a game to load. My replacement 72 pin from ebay only loads with game genie now and does not otherwise. Just blinks.

Edited by 0078265317
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I've heard this. I just acquired a game genie in a, strangely enough, Atari 800XL lot. How does using the genie as a go-between help prevent the blinking light issue exactly?

The Game Genie PCB is located lower than a normal NES game; it's because you can't press the Game Genie down, so they have to find a way to make a contact with the connector.

It's also why you can't use the Game Genie in a top loader NES, since the toploader use a standard connector that won't fit the GG (unless you cut the shell of the GG).

This is only a temporary solution, as every time you use a GG, it presses the connector pins on a upper point that a regular NEs game, so it bend them down further, which make the things worse for further use.

 

As for the 10Nes chip, the blinking is caused by poor contacts.

If a game blinks, or all your games blinks it's because the games or the connector is dirty or bent.

Disabling the 10NES chip only mean that you'll know much later that you have a poor connection issue.

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Ok I have fixed many many nes systems and this is my personal preference on repairing them.

 

Take system apart.

 

Remove pin connector and boil/bake it.

 

Take Brasso and use it on the board pins "only"- many people will disagree with this as it removes the gold plating which I understand but the results are soooo much better. You must use deoxit gold which will act the same as the gold plating. As long as you re-coat the pins you will be fine.

 

Remove lock-out.

 

Reassemble.

 

 

There is a major difference between using brasso on the board and not using brasso.

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I have used the BKF powder version and it works great. It has resurrected many carts that would not work after cleaning the contacts with isopropyl alcohol or a dry eraser.

 

I personally wouldn't use a metal polish on cart pins. I give tolerance to board pins as they can be coated w/deoxit gold and they will not have constant scraping along the pins. However removing the gold plating for carts that constantly get scraped in and out of a pin-connector I would not do.

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