1084 power switch won't stay latched

[gamer-stu]

I think this is a common problem: the power button on my 1084 monitor won't stay in/on. It doesn't latch. So at the moment I'm getting by with jamming a paper clip in the mechanism to force it to stay engaged. Does anyone know of a source for a replacement switch, or a reasonably analogous one?

[rpiguy9907]

I second this question. My 1084-SP has the same issue and so far the only advice I've gotten is to source a broken 1084 amd salvage the mechanism. Not easy or economical!

[Oge]

You can find more informations here:

http://www.retro-commodore.eu/2014/04/12/c1084-power-switch-replacement/

 

It is far from being a common part, replacing it seems to be the only viable solution though.

 

 

Cheers,

Oge

[gamer-stu]

Excellent write up -- thanks for posting Oge! I see that there is even an active link in there for a part source, at .75 Euro a piece! I'm going to get a couple, just in case I screw one up.

[+save2600]

I have a Philips CBM monitor whose switch bit the dust. Was easy to bypass though and now just use a power strip to switch on/off instead of repairing properly.

[gamer-stu]

Thanks save2600. I suppose that is how I'm doing it now, in a cludgy sort of way--I have the switch jammed in with a paperclip and turn it on with my under monitor power multi-switch box. But it sounds like yours has been permanently bypassed. So did you basicaly just short the switch circuit to be always on/closed? That would certainly look better than my present solution.

 

And a follow-up on ordering a switch from the German supplier referenced in the above link... the switch would be 0.75 Euro, and shipping to the US over 60 Euro. So I think I will pass.

[+save2600]

^ Yep, just shorted it out so it's permanently on is all. No big whoop with a power strip!

[cbmeeks]

I ran into this about 9 years ago. I superglued the button on and use a power strip. I regret doing this as there are better ways. But it works and you can't see the glue.

 

When my 1084S dies you will see a grown man cry.

[RobertB]

That reminds me to bring my 1084S to Ray Carlsen. Perhaps he can fix the switch which only stays on if I jam a piece of cardstock between it and the monitor casing.

 

Truly,

Robert Bernardo

Fresno Commodore User Group

http://www.dickestel.com/fcug.htm

July 30-31 Commodore Vegas Expo v12 -

http://www.portcommodore.com/commvex

[+OLD CS1]

I had two 1084s which did this WBITD. I just bypassed the switches and put the monitors on one of those multi-switched outlet stands. Obviously not the ideal solution, but hey, it worked.

[oracle_jedi]

Got the same problem on a 1989 1084-D monitor. Nice picture, cosmetically excellent, and I am hoping to use the RGB mode for a VBXE mod on an Atari 1200XL, but would like to fix the power switch first.

 

If I bypass the switch I am assuming red-to-red and black-to-black right? Obvious I hope but you know what they say about assumptions.

 

Also what is the rating of the switch? Looks like several DPST latching switches might be suitable replacements, but want to make sure I am not creating a fire hazard.

[+OLD CS1]

Shoot, I wish I remembered enough to help you. Been 20 years and it was on a lark. As I recall, the input poles are the same sides as the switched poles, which are either side of the median of the switch, but do not quote me on that as I would rather not be responsible for the death of an Amiga monitor.

 

In any case, remember: whatever you do, measure once and cut twice!^*

 

* Yet another Bad Joke^TM brought to you by OLD CS1.

[oracle_jedi]

So I decided to order a replacement switch from https://www.thefuturewas8bit.com/shop/commodore/commodore-spares/1084switch.html

 

With shipping to the U.S.A. it came out under $12 and arrived within 7 days, so I was pretty happy about that.

 

To replace the broken switch, remove the four screws on the back of the monitor and slide the CRT forward. You will have just enough room to access the switch mounting.

 

 

Release the small brass screw on the mounting bracket and the switch will come free and can now be moved out from inside the monitor casing.

 

A further two screws release the switch from the mounting bracket.

 

 

The black plastic mounting plate needs to be removed from the old switch and kept for the new one.

 

 

I simply bent the red and black wires back and forth until they broke off from the broken switch.

 

 

I found I needed to strip back the wires slightly and desolder the remains of the old pins.

 

It was then fairly straightforward to feed the wires through the small holes on the pins of the new switch, and then solder them into place.

 

 

The most difficult part of all was removing the small metal mounting plate on the new switch. Initially I tried to twist it off, but found that the plastic of the switch housing was buckling and indeed a small part broke off. In the end I used pliers to pull the plate off, which took some effort to do without breaking the entire switch.

 

With the monitor reassembled, the switch latches properly and looks great.

 

 

Edited July 2, 2016 by oracle_jedi

[gamer-stu]

Thanks oracle_jedi -- great report! I'll order from the link you provided and give it a shot.