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How to Spot FAKE Nintendo Games (Video)


Metal Jesus

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That's clearly a fake- see how the recess on top just says 'game'?

 

I'm with iceman, I really think yours is real... it seems odd that they'd take the time to match the board exactly. I still wonder why your cousin said it wasn't.

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That's an interesting way for the more honest repro dudes to help mark their stuff- label the board. Is that common at all?

 

LOL I have not marked mine.. I wanted a to learn how to mod the game programming to make every game load saying Reproduction by me or what not. As far as him marking it. I would not buy from him. He does not cover the eproms. Closed or not it's poor work as that chip was exposed while being programmed and soldered. He can put a sticker on the back but not over the window.... unreal.

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This is also from what I can tell the earliest repro game in my collection. Mind you, the board lives in a solid black Tengen case, so it is shielded from UV. I have a few other repro carts that the EPROMS are also uncovered on. I'll be putting tape over them myself...as the cases are transparent. Such a small step that very few seem to take.

 

Another side note, is this cart was not being listed as a repro when I bought it. It had a typically vague description, and it was made to look similar to a Tengen proto, being housed in an unlabeled Tengen cart shell. I do not know of the maker, and seller were the same person or not.

I didn't get burned on it, as I got it at standard going rate... But it's one of those "repros are fine as long as..." moments that folks should be aware of. It's also a good pictorial example of a blatant repro game board built on a donor. As always, buyer beware, do homework, and ask questions.

Edited by madhatter667
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Well unless I am Mistaken Nes "Airball" was never officially released so it can't be anything but a reproduction. On one hand it is technically not a reproduction since the game was never released but it is made the same way. People just really need to research before they buy is all, especially if you are spending some cash on a rare item.

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LOL I have not marked mine.. I wanted a to learn how to mod the game programming to make every game load saying Reproduction by me or what not. As far as him marking it. I would not buy from him. He does not cover the eproms. Closed or not it's poor work as that chip was exposed while being programmed and soldered. He can put a sticker on the back but not over the window.... unreal.

 

 

There was a guy recently that did a series of experiments, it took 2-3 weeks of the thing sitting on the roof of his building before it erased, and next a paper label wouldnt do very much, if you want to be sure it has to be 100% light proof, that usually means metal stickers

 

should he put stickers on eeproms, yes, that is just good practice and some aluminum HVAC tape is not that expensive.... in reality will it matter, doubtful

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There was a guy recently that did a series of experiments, it took 2-3 weeks of the thing sitting on the roof of his building before it erased

 

Having it fully erase is not the problem. Having just enough erase so the game is not functional or has problems is. It's such a simple thing to do. I use a black vinyl with a second layer white sticker over top that I can write on. Light does not get through the black vinyl plus it would have to go through the white layer first and yes the enclosed casing.

 

I think the experiment that would matter more is how many hours/ days it takes before the eprom no longer reads properly instead of erasing completely.

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Having it fully erase is not the problem. Having just enough erase so the game is not functional or has problems is. It's such a simple thing to do. I use a black vinyl with a second layer white sticker over top that I can write on. Light does not get through the black vinyl plus it would have to go through the white layer first and yes the enclosed casing.

 

I think the experiment that would matter more is how many hours/ days it takes before the eprom no longer reads properly instead of erasing completely.

 

 

well there's like a 10 page writeup but here is a video summary

 

 

in a nutshell not a single bit erased until 2 weeks of rooftop sunlight

 

also keep in mind its a fairly high wavelength of UV that causes this, which may or may not pass though visually opaque materials (on the flip side that is why the window is quartz, normal glass reflects a lot the UV you want to erase it with)

Edited by Osgeld
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Epoxied chips (AKA black globs) are not a valid way to judge if a game is fake. They have been used as a cost saving method across the industry for a good 30 years.

 

I think that depends on the game. Do you know of any GBC Pokémon games that were made using globs because I don't. In general games are not made via both methods as far as I know anyhow.

 

I did get irritated today when I opened a genesis quad challenge just to find a blob in it..... well I guess it has a nice shell.

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