RCA Studio II Multicart

[+stupus]

Updated list for multicart *BOXES*.

You need to contact flip directly to order the game board/labels/manual.

This list is only for people who would like to order a box from me separately from their order of the game from flip.

 

*Note that ordering from 1 of us does not automatically place an order from the other of us!

 

 

1. Flip

2. stupus

3. Ed keefe

4. Blazing lazers

5. Anonymous ebay bingo buyer

6. Toymailman

7. eebuckeye

8. Kyljoy

9. Krslam

10. Lazzeri

11. Spaceman

12. Atari2008

13. Mckafka99

14. Bassguitari

15. FABombjoy

16. Rhcocker

 

 

Again if I miss anyone let me know. A box will not be held for you if your not on the list.

Thanks!

[carlsson]

Please add me to the list of boxes too.

[rayik]

As many people requested, I am making a box for the multicarts.

These will be a separate optional order that will be purchased thru me and not flip.

They will use original rca s2 game boxes from common games that are rewrapped with the new multicart graphics.

I can probably do between 25 and 30 of these with my current supplies.

While I won't start an official preorder yet, or ask for funds yet....if anybody wants to be put down for 1, please let me know and I will start a list of interested people to help gauge interest.

Would like to order a box. Thank you

[+stupus]

Hey!

 

Just finalizing the artwork for the multicart boxes and I wanted to share a preview with everyone before I start production.

 

Happy to hear any comments on it before I call it final!

 

 

Here is the updated order list:

1. Flip
2. stupus
3. Ed keefe
4. Blazing lazers
5. Anonymous ebay bingo buyer
6. Toymailman
7. eebuckeye
8. Kyljoy
9. Krslam
10. Lazzeri
11. Spaceman
12. Atari2008
13. Mckafka99
14. Bassguitari
15. FABombjoy
16. Rhcocker
17. carlsson

18. rayik

 

I am hoping to have the price of the boxes about $20 each shipping included in the usa.

Payments by paypal. Gift payments preffered.

 

Outside the usa will be price of the box paid by paypal gift and buyer then chooses whatever shipping method they like and pays exact cost of shipping.

 

*NOTE: The boxes will be using vintage studio 2 game boxes then wrapped with the new graphics.

[+stupus]

Hi,

 

I just finalized the artwork for the multicart boxes!

 

I am happy to hear any input before I start production on them!

 

 

Here is the updated order list:

 

1. Flip
2. stupus
3. Ed keefe
4. Blazing lazers
5. Anonymous ebay bingo buyer
6. Toymailman
7. eebuckeye
8. Kyljoy
9. Krslam
10. Lazzeri
11. Spaceman
12. Atari2008
13. Mckafka99
14. Bassguitari
15. FABombjoy
16. Rhcocker
17. carlsson

18. rayik

 

Price of the boxes will probably be about $20 shipped in the usa.

Payments accepted by paypal. Gift payments preferred.

 

Orders outside the usa will be the price of the box plus the exact cost of whatever shipping method the buyer chooses. Payments by paypal gift only due to buyer choosing shipping method.

 

*NOTE!: The multicart boxes are going to be made using old vintage boxes from common studio 2 games. They will be wrapped with the new multicart artwork.

[+stupus]

Hey,

 

Well, I tried to post earlier and it failed twice....now I see both of my unfinished posts actually did post but without the picture...argh

 

Anyway, all that was left to say besides showing the picture was the rest of the note at the bottom.

 

I am using old boxes as the base for these, so be aware that while the graphic sides of the box will be new, the bottom half of the box as well as the insides of the lid and bottom may have some amount of wear from age.

 

This will vary box to box, just be aware of that and accept this if you follow thru with an order.

 

I probably will wait till I get my cart from flip to start processing orders to be sure the carts fit perfectly with the 2 dials on the multicart into the boxes.

 

Thanks!

 

[rayik]

Very nice stupus. Like the "Amazing compilation of all RCA Studio II games" as well as "multicart.". Thank you

[+KylJoy]

Wow... That is great!

[flip]

I'm interested in the multicart and composite out board, although I didn't see any pricing or what installation of the composite out board involves. Is there info I'm missing outside of the post #1?

Hey Bill,

 

I can't send a private message to you for some reason... Can you look into that or try to send me a PM?

 

Cheers,

 

FliP

[flip]

Hi all,

 

Attached is a manual on how to install the composite out mod in your Studio II. Please have a look and let me know if there's any questions...

 

Most carts are on their way, or will be on their way tomorrow. I had to repackage some as there's restrictions on how tick the package can be - Anything above 3cm would cost about 3 times more in shipping: I had to take the PCBs out of the shells to get the the padded envelope under 3 cm

 

The shells have been modified a bit: to open them, the rivets had to be drilled out. The bottom two have been replaced with screws. On top, 2 half rivets were used to keep the shell together. That way, the labels don't need to be damaged if ever you need to re-open the shell...

 

When opening them, make sure you pull it open 'evenly' so you don't bend the rivets. If it's stuck, try prying it open with a knife or other flat tool, making sure you open it evenly on all side...

 

Let me know when you receive your cart!

 

FliP

videoMod_manual.pdf

[+stupus]

And boxes are ready to start production as soon as I get my cart.

I waited on them to test fit the cart in the boxes and color match the box to the cart labels

 

I will start contacting people on the list in order as I start finishing some boxes.

[BillLoguidice]

Hey Bill,

 

I can't send a private message to you for some reason... Can you look into that or try to send me a PM?

 

Cheers,

 

FliP

 

Unfortunately, AtariAge ate my original account, which is why I'm using this one now. I'll send a PM.

[carlsson]

Once my package arrives, I'll open up my Conic M1200 and compare with the pictures of a genuine Studio II, if it has the same soldering points. Of course it already takes 9V DC so no need to modify that part, just install the composite video board. Is the signal you tap already a weak composite-ish signal that the board amplifies, and in that case could it be used as a basis for amplifying similar signals on other systems? I suppose component values may need to be adjusted based on the original signal strength.

[+KylJoy]

Hey folks, quick rabbit trail here...

 

Do any of you have interest in a nice dust cover for your RCA Studio II? I am trying to get the folks that make nice ones for other systems to make one for the Studio II but I am not sure there is enough of a market for them to bother with it. So, just checking in here to see if I might be able to convince them. It would be similar to the ones done by these folks - HERE.

 

Maybe with something like this on it?

 

 

I am not an artist.

 

Please let me know by PM to keep this thread on topic.

[flip]

Once my package arrives, I'll open up my Conic M1200 and compare with the pictures of a genuine Studio II, if it has the same soldering points. Of course it already takes 9V DC so no need to modify that part, just install the composite video board. Is the signal you tap already a weak composite-ish signal that the board amplifies, and in that case could it be used as a basis for amplifying similar signals on other systems? I suppose component values may need to be adjusted based on the original signal strength.

I can guarantee that that won't work. The video circuit of the color/PAL clones is very different from the RCA Studio II. You can get a monochrome output easily enough (even without any composite mod) but to mix in the colors is trickier. I have a basic circuit working, but it's rather tricky to install as the RF board needs to come out to reach a trace on the underside. I think I might use the reference design on the datasheet of the CDP1864 to design an independent composite or S-video signal, but no concrete plans yet...

 

An added complication for those consoles is that there's no onboard speaker: the sound is also mixed into the RF signal... It's not a biggie, but a second connection is needed to connect the sound to a line in/amplifier...

 

FliP

[carlsson]

Aw! Then I didn't really need the composite video board.

[+stupus]

Aw! Then I didn't really need the composite video board.

Well I would trade you an rca studio 2 for your conic.....the conic is the only known clone I don't own

 

Or if you ever see another one for sale by you grab it for me!

[carlsson]

It has arrived!

 

So far I'm having a bit of trouble to understand the rotary switches, namely which end of the slit on the switch points towards the digit and which doesn't. Some programs appear to freeze or crash on my Conic M1200, but only sometimes. After cycling the power, they seem to work. Also, some games appear to require me to push a number + 0 to start them, which I can't recall from the few original games I've got, but perhaps I just need to read the manuals a bit closer. I've already run the contacts over with a pencil eraser, just to make sure they're clean. My old cartridges don't act up in the same way.

 

Besides, I didn't follow all the technical details, but are currently blocks 8-F empty and will act like shadow blocks to 0-7 (in practise only 0-4)?

 

Otherwise, it looks great and I'm sure I'll come to terms what is up and down.

[flip]

Great to hear you got yours already!

 

For the Conic and the other PAL clones, try to set jumper 2 (the one on the right when looking at the component side) to the other position: short pins 1 & 2. I think the TPA signal is not crippled like it is on the Studio II, so the circuit can be bypassed...

 

The rotary switches: they do have a distinct top that points at what is selected, but it's hard to see... The EEPROM only has 128 slots, so selecting 8-F on the left dial is the same as using 0-F

 

Quite a few games, old and new, require you to press something before they start...

 

FliP

[carlsson]

Ah, I see what you mean. The slit goes all the way down on the side which it point towards, but only slit across the top on the opposite side.

 

Test program 1 - Checksum reports 4028, which is the same as on the MPT-02.

 

The following symptoms were detected with JP2 set in the default position:

 

Test program 2 - RAM fill only ran one cycle, then crashed.

Test program 3 - Keypad test only registered key 0 on both left and right keypads as 9 (!), all other keys acted like they were dead. It should be pointed out that using the built-in Doodle program, all keys on both pads work as expected to move the cursor and select colours.

 

All of Lee Romanow's games started, except neither could be controlled, likely due to the above.

All of Paul Robson's games however froze or crashed badly, with graphical errors, jumping graphics in Invaders, red screen of death (!) in Pong and so on.

 

Some of the RCA and MPT-02 games emitted graphical glitches every now and then.

 

When I put JP2 in the other position 1-2, every one of the above errors were solved and as far as I can tell, every program works 100%.

[flip]

Phew - you had me worried there for a while

 

On the Studio II, the cart works with the default setting. If you have an earlier board (Rev D), you can set J2 to position 1-2 (instead of the default 2-3). This bypasses Ed Keefe's TPA circuit that re-creates the full TPA signal on the cart. Without this circuit, the revision E boards seem to mirror the higher address ranges to the lower ones. This is described in Paul Robson technical pages. I can't think of any reason why RCA designers would have done this: it effectively limits the usable address space to $400-$7FF...

 

On the clones, I suspect that the timing is slightly different, so that the TPA circuit struggles with keeping things in sync. I've not looked with a logic analyser, but since bypassing the circuit works, it's not something to worry about.

 

In short:

 

RCA Studio II, revision D: J2 1-2 or 2-3 shouldn't matter

RCA Studio II, revision E: J2 must be in position 2-3 (as is on delivery)

Clones, including Conic and MPT: J2 must be in position 1-2

 

FliP

Edited November 18, 2016 by flip

[carlsson]

Obviously, after getting the keypad to work as expected, I can now start games by just pressing the associated number, with no addtional "0" afterwards. The fact that I need to press a digit was known to me, it was the fact that I seemed to have to press two digits to get anything to happen that confused me, but apparently this was due to the keypad was not read correctly before moving the jumper.

[TLD1985]

Is it possible to see some pics of a pdf of the inside of the manual?

[flip]

Here you go - page order is a bit funny, for printing reasons, so watch the page numbers on the bottom to make sense of it...

 

FliP

multi_manual.pdf

[+KylJoy]

So no one is even interested in a fancy-smancy dust cover for their RCA Studio II? Aw... They won't make only one. I probably need about 10 people to promise to buy them before they'll bite. Let me know!