Jump to content
IGNORED

3d printed Atari SIO plug 400/800/600xl etc.


norm8332

Recommended Posts

Continuing my Atari related 3d printer file releases with a 3d printable SIO plug. If you have access to a 3d printer the file is located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1831769.

Printing the plug requires a very well tuned printer for the best results. I used a highly modified Prusa I3 with a .2mm nozzle and the results were good. I have tested it using contacts pulled from an old AT power supply mother board connector. New contacts are available at Digikey ( http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0008500105/WM2300CT-ND/467825). This is still a work in progress although its fully functional.

 

If you have any suggestions please let me know.

 

Norm

post-10491-0-74355600-1476670407_thumb.jpg

Edited by norm8332
  • Like 15
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This looks really nice! When you say contacts from an old AT power supply are you talking about the 13 metal contact connectors

that lock into the female connector? If so, you can buy packages of them from Best Electronics too.

 

Yes the contacts in the motherboard plug. I haven't checked Best electronics, but I've heard good things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just to update..I've been using this with a DIY SIO2ARDUINO SD adapter and its holding up great. Mine was printed in ABS plastic. I have tried it on a 400, 800 and 600XL so far. It was a little tight on the 400 but i think its the plug on the 400 is warped a bit. I recommend printing this with ABS plastic because that's what it was designed with, but It may work well with PLA also, I never tested it. If anyone prints one in PLA let me know of any problems etc.

 

 

Norm

Edited by norm8332
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to update..I've been using this with a DIY SIO2ARDUINO SD adapter and its holding up great. Mine was printed in ABS plastic. I have tried it on a 400, 800 and 600XL so far. It was a little tight on the 400 but i think its the plug on the 400 is warped a bit. I recommend printing this with ABS plastic because that's what it was designed with, but It may work well with PLA also, I never tested it. If anyone prints one in PLA let me know of any problems etc.

 

 

Norm

What printer do you have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

prine

What printer do you have?

I printed it on a modified-for-additional-rigidity PRUSA i3 with a .2mm nozzle, but I also have 2 MendelMax 1.5s that are the workhorses. The 2 MendelMax printers have larger .35mm and .40mm print nozzles. I used the I3 with the .2mm because of the fine details of the plug, but they may print OK on the larger nozzles..I haven't tried it yet. But the next one i will try on the .35mm printer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Printing the plug requires a very well tuned printer for the best results. I used a highly modified Prusa I3 with a .2mm nozzle and the results were good. I have tested it using contacts pulled from an old AT power supply mother board connector. New contacts are available at Digikey ( http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0008500105/WM2300CT-ND/467825). This is still a work in progress although its fully functional.

 

Would this one fit?

 

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/crimp-terminal-connector-3-96mm.html

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just had a couple of them made in Colorfabb XT. They turned out really well, except for the fact that the inner part is too big to properly fit the housing. After a lot of sanding, filing an dremeling I made it to fit, but in the process I discovered the edges (ledges?) inside the housing are not high enough and spaced too close and the "height" of the edges is reversed compared to the Molex plug I used for comparison. That means that once you pull the plug out of a socket, the inner part gets loose and slips out of the housing. Maybe it all fits snugly when modeled, but I guess there is no margin for the fact that parts are slightly bigger most of the time, unless you have a very very accurate 3D printer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Update: I was now able to print it successfully myself at 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle, 25% infill, PLA @ 200°C, heated bed @ 40°C glass with 3DLAC, but (important!) with the top and bottom scaled to 101%. Now it all fits perfectly and without any stress on the outer shell of the top and bottom parts!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Update: I was now able to print it successfully myself at 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle, 25% infill, PLA @ 200°C, heated bed @ 40°C glass with 3DLAC, but (important!) with the top and bottom scaled to 101%. Now it all fits perfectly and without any stress on the outer shell of the top and bottom parts!

Yes it does require a highly calibrated printer. Most have printed it as is and had no issues, others may have had to make minor adjustments based on their particular printer type, calibration, and material used. It was designed for use with ABS. ABS shrinks slightly and the shrinkage may also vary from brand to brand.

Edited by norm8332
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...