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Jaguar Rotary Controllers ?


AtariBrian
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I got currently two normal controllers modded with rotary its really cool on Tempest 2000 which support two rotary's.

I am thinking of modding a procontroller I have seen pictures of someone who had modded his procontroller but you need to cut some piece from the upper pcb and solder wires. So much harder to mod as a normal controller where is just enough space.

There a three options to mod.
1) replace d-pad with rotary
2) rotary under d-pad and switch to switch between normal/rotary
3) rotary on the backside and switch to switch between normal/rotary

I got both modded as option 2.

Edited by TXG/MNX
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I seen these on ebay and wondered what people think of these if anyone has them ? I don't own a Jaguar yet but am currently looking for one .

 

I bought one several years ago... I can't remember who made it, or what the "brand" was called... maybe Dragon or something named after a snake or something, I can't remember. But it works awesome. I use it on games like Tempest 2000 and Impulse-X. Basically, the one I have has a pentameter knob protruding through the "+" pad in an otherwise "factory-new" basic Jaguar controller.

 

Totally worth it for some of those games, if you can find one.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got currently two normal controllers modded with rotary its really cool on Tempest 2000 which support two rotary's.

 

I am thinking of modding a procontroller I have seen pictures of someone who had modded his procontroller but you need to cut some piece from the upper pcb and solder wires. So much harder to mod as a normal controller where is just enough space.

 

There a three options to mod.

1) replace d-pad with rotary

2) rotary under d-pad and switch to switch between normal/rotary

3) rotary on the backside and switch to switch between normal/rotary

 

I got both modded as option 2.

There is another option that I find strange no one has tried after me. Which is to put the rotary on the right side, where it should be (",)

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Does anyone have a wiring diagram? I want to make an small arcade controller using just the 3 buttons(maybe a 4th for pause if possible) and just a rotary controller. It will be used only for rotary games so I do not need the number pad, directional pad, etc.

 

It should be an easy project, I am sure someone has made one. Any have a simple wiring diagram for something like this???

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Does anyone have a wiring diagram? I want to make an small arcade controller using just the 3 buttons(maybe a 4th for pause if possible) and just a rotary controller. It will be used only for rotary games so I do not need the number pad, directional pad, etc.

 

It should be an easy project, I am sure someone has made one. Any have a simple wiring diagram for something like this???

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/204759-dedicated-tempest-2000-controller-not-a-pad-modification/?p=2631145

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You can use the schematic for the full pad madman posted above, but it has a lot of stuff that's not necessary in your case. Here's an (untested) schematic that's simpler and should work:

post-8748-0-83964800-1484437615_thumb.png

 

You need:

- Four 4.7 kohm, 1/4W, 5% resistors (R1, R2, R3, R4)

- Three 1N4148 diodes (D1, D2, D3)

- One 74HC244 IC (U1)

- Four switches (SW1, SW2, SW3, SW4)

- One mechanical rotary encoder (SW5)

- One cable with a 15-pin, high-density, male D-Sub connector on one end (P1)

 

The cable can be one of those thin "cheap&nasty" VGA extension cables (do not use the thicker, more expensive ones: they use coax cables instead of wires, and do not connect all pins). You can also make it yourself by soldering a connector to a plain cable with 9 or more wires, but it's more work.

The encoder should be a mechanical (not optical) one with three pins.

 

If the rotary controls work backwards, swap the A and B wires on the encoder.

Edited by Zerosquare
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danny_galaga > Like the rest of Jaguar hardware/software, controllers have gotten expensive. If you don't need all the buttons, building your own is cheaper.

 

Shamus > I don't have any Genesis/Megadrive controller so I can't write a tutorial, sorry :)

 

If the insides indeed look like this:

post-8748-0-69516400-1484538580_thumb.jpg

 

then you can use the schematic above as long as you do a few things beforehand:

 

- desolder all the parts on the PCB (C1, R1 to R9, IC1)

 

- cut the traces where the orange lines are

 

- scrape the green solder resist (use fine sandpaper) and solder a wire where each pink dot is

Edited by Zerosquare
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This one isn't mine (ebay link), but it is the exact same style of one that I have. For the life of me I can't remember who or where I bought it from, but I love it. Anyway, this is basically what I have: (and this one is cheap)

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-Jaguar-Rotary-Metal-Dial-Controller-For-Tempest-2000-T2K/281917040012

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This one isn't mine (ebay link), but it is the exact same style of one that I have. For the life of me I can't remember who or where I bought it from, but I love it. Anyway, this is basically what I have: (and this one is cheap)

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-Jaguar-Rotary-Metal-Dial-Controller-For-Tempest-2000-T2K/281917040012

 

I have a Chaos Reins rotary controller that is similar to that. It has been a fairly common solution over the years. I like mine a lot.

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This one isn't mine (ebay link), but it is the exact same style of one that I have. For the life of me I can't remember who or where I bought it from, but I love it. Anyway, this is basically what I have: (and this one is cheap)

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-Jaguar-Rotary-Metal-Dial-Controller-For-Tempest-2000-T2K/281917040012

 

That is Nick's. It is a very good controller and Nick is a good guy. I finally figured out why I was having problems. We live in Colorado and in the winter it is extremely dry. I usually play on the floor(carpet) and the static electricity was causing problems with the metal rotary knob. I fried a couple controllers that way. I have since put on plastic knobs and I am hoping this fixes the problems. It is difficult(try impossible) to walk across the room without getting shocked so it is very dry here.

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I figured out why my rotary was acting up. My controller stopped working right. The rotary was not responding correctly. Either not spinning or spinning on it's own. Turns out it was static shock. We live in Colorado and it's very dry. The static electricity is crazy here, combined with a metal knob, well....it was not a good mix. Turns out the static shock was frying the 74HC244 chip on the controller board. It happened a few times to a few different controllers.

 

I found a local shop that took out the old chip and tested it. It was bad. They put in a 20 pin socket and a new 74HC244 chip. The broken controller is now back to life!!!

I am hoping the switch to a plastic knob will stop the problem, but just in case, I am keeping a few 74HC244 chips in reserve.

 

I might be the only one who has a metal knob on their rotary and lives in a dry place, but I wanted to post this fix/repair. Just a heads up.....

Thanks again Zerosquare for suggesting the 74HC244 chip!!!!!!!!!!

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danny_galaga > Like the rest of Jaguar hardware/software, controllers have gotten expensive. If you don't need all the buttons, building your own is cheaper.

 

Shamus > I don't have any Genesis/Megadrive controller so I can't write a tutorial, sorry :)

 

If the insides indeed look like this:

attachicon.gifgen_diagram1.jpg

 

then you can use the schematic above as long as you do a few things beforehand:

 

- desolder all the parts on the PCB (C1, R1 to R9, IC1)

 

- cut the traces where the orange lines are

 

- scrape the green solder resist (use fine sandpaper) and solder a wire where each pink dot is

 

Just looked at B & C. They still have used controllers for $14.95. So I go back to my original statement- why not just hack a jaguar controller? (",)

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Just looked at B & C. They still have used controllers for $14.95. So I go back to my original statement- why not just hack a jaguar controller? (",)

 

I bought a few new Jag controllers and had 20 pin sockets put in so if you ever have static shock or a chip fail(74HC244 chip), you can just slide in another. Put in the rotary on the D-pad, feels the most natural and comfortable for me. These are professionally soldered. If anyone wants one, I might have one or two extras for sale. Extremely nice controllers, very responsive. I immediately beat my old high-score (134,230 on Skirmish) with the new controller.

Edited by Machine
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