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mortari

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Hi there, I am a new member. Lurked for a few days and decided to join. I posted an intro thread with a little background about my system find and restoration and a few snaps:

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260257-gday/

You all have provided plenty of inspiration and guidance without which I would be lost. So many thanks to you all. Since getting my Colecovision set up and running the other day, I have plunged headfirst in a way... I grabbed a box of mixed goods to refurb/repair/play with, and I've already found myself a copy of Dam Busters at my local - surprising and a pleasant holiday treat for me.


There are plenty of things I plan on doing over the next little bit:

- Install the AV Mod... Seems like a no brainer.

- Pause switch... man's gotta pee.

- Modify a pair of extra controllers with knob handles, top fire buttons, straight wires.

- Find Burger Time and Q*Bert

 

- Figure out where to find more of and how you make a good reproduction controller insert for games that use them.


The Expansion module looks very tempting, and can't even imagine how many 2600 games I've passed up... thought the CV games tend to look much better IMO. The system is technically my step-dad's, but at 77, I reckon he won't be too sad if I hog the system a little... Though he has expressed an interest in Donkey Kong. He called it Mario, then when I corrected him, he said "No... the lil Italian guy is Mario... dummy!". Amazing how these things can bridge the generational gaps LOL.

*Anyone who has made controller inserts themselves, I would love to know more. I have ideas, but wonder if there is anything I am overlooking, or overthinking ;)

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I am just doing some searches and curious how those who buy used loose games in the wild go about inspecting a game they cannot test...

- are there any surefire things to look for when looking through a used box?

- what is a good way to check you can't test them?
- will versions of games made in different regions still work?

 

Thanks

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For the controller overlays, the easiest thing is to print them out with an inkjet printer and laminate them. You can buy self laminating sheets so you don't have to buy a laminating machine and that stuff. They look pretty good, and play like the originals. Unless you are a hard core collector, then you can spend a lot of money finding the rare ones. And most games don't use overlays, and some that have them can be played without them.

I'm not sure what the deal with AV mods, Pause and BIOS mods, and other such stuff is. To me this is like watching the classic 1977 Star Wars, and then watching the 90's special editions. Then a few years later there were more changes made for the DVDs. Then more changes made for the next DVD release that came out with the prequel DVDs. And then more changes for the Blu Rays, such as in some editions Han shoots first, and in other editions he shoots at the same time. (And hopefully now Disney will release the original unaltered movies.)

 

I think some things should be left well enough alone. You should appreciate something that is a classic as it was intended to be appreciated. So if that means a 12 second BIOS screen, no pause, and rf only, then that's what it is. The movie industry had a renaissance of making changes and special editions in the 90's and 2000's, but that is all but gone. George Lucas is laughed at for making changes every few years to his movies, and Spielberg's little foray into special editions with ET has scarred him to never do it again. I think in a few years video game collecting will go the same way as movies has. Where now the rage is all about console modding and things like using RGB scart. But I suspect that in a few years people will learn to appreciate things as classics not to be messed with.

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I am just doing some searches and curious how those who buy used loose games in the wild go about inspecting a game they cannot test...

 

- are there any surefire things to look for when looking through a used box?

- what is a good way to check you can't test them?

- will versions of games made in different regions still work?

 

Thanks

 

 

With Atari 2600 cartridges, about 98% will work. With ColecoVision, its probably 99%. The only thing is that you will need to clean the cartridges. They are all pretty old, and many won't work if you don't clean them. The best way to clean them is to take the board out, which means you need to cut a hole in the label to get to the screw to unscrew it, or you can use a heat gun to remove the label, and then glue it back.

 

The best way to judge a game is to look at it. If the label is torn, faded, and the plastic is damaged, then the board might also be in bad shape. But these games are old, so torn and faded labels are common. Just look at the board and see what that the contacts look like.

 

If you are going to a store, then just ask for the return policy if it doesn't work. If you are at a thrift store or yard sale, then the prices you are paying should be low enough where you can take the 1% risk it might not work and spend a few dollars. If it is a rare and expensive game, then the store will have tested it and ask if it works, or if buying it online ask the seller, and make sure the seller offers returns.

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To open the CV for cleaning or modding, you DO NOT have to remove the front bezel label or poke holes in the label to get to the screws. There is info in the pinned thread titled "ColecoVision and ADAM Info" and a video on how to open up the system without doing any damage to any of it. I seem to recall the CV Technical Manual also covering this procedure.

 

If loose carts are good enough for your needs, then search up Mumbai's sales thread in the MarketPlace Forum for great quality carts at great prices.

 

Highly eecommend you purchasing the AtariMax Ultimate SD Cart.... www.atarimax.com.

 

ColecoVison games are not region specific.

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